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WACO YMF

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Old 08-20-2006, 10:47 AM
  #76
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Default RE: WACO YMF

As promised, here are the latest pics. It's coming along, "Slowly but showly".

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:50 AM
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Default RE: WACO YMF

And 3 more.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:23 PM
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Default RE: WACO YMF

good job william s., you are the best at this type of building.
i'll talk to you soon.

benjamin h. birchfieldIII
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Old 08-20-2006, 02:51 PM
  #79
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Golly, Gee Whiz, Aw Shucks Benny. [8D]

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Old 08-21-2006, 05:48 PM
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Hello, I have the 1/5 scale Waco (Pica), and would like to know if there is any dihedral in the top wing? I've had this plane flying since 1986 and don't remember. The plans have disapeared.
BTW the plane took a spill off the work bench at the field and tweaked the top wing. THANKS for the help.
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:57 PM
  #81
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The wing center section is flat. There is 2 degrees of dihedral in each wingtip with the center section flat on the bench. If you need, I will measure the distance from the bench to the bottom of the tip for you.

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Old 08-21-2006, 08:25 PM
  #82
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That would be great stickbuilder, thank you. I knew the bottom wing had dihedral, I just couldn't see much if any in the top wing since it was damaged.
I'm building a half scale Smith Miniplane with dihedral in the bottom wing and no dihehral in the top wing so I guess I was assuming the Waco was the same. BTW your plane looks great.
Again Thanks for the measurement. Rick
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:27 AM
  #83
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The measurement from the last rib to the table (or top of tip) would be great.
With appreciation, Rick
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Old 08-22-2006, 02:40 PM
  #84
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Lookin real sweet Bill,had a setback with my waco mounting the aileron servo,I think I know why the ailerons didnt respond for him on takeoff.He used the plastic pushrods with bellcranks,I thought that was a bad idea when I was repairing the wing>It took no effort to deflect all the pushrod and bellcrank with just 1 aileron.The long and the short I preformed surgury this weekend.Broke my heart to do that to a new airplane,better now than to bring it home in shopping bag.Took your advise and used a high torque servo didn"t slow that down a bit.Put stronger wire & stiffer bellcranks in it should be ok now.Keep up that great work youve rounded turn 3 Chris
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: dogfight

The measurement from the last rib to the table (or top of tip) would be great.
With appreciation, Rick


from the table surface to the top of the tip measures 3" exactly (on each side) The top of the tip is at the extreme length of the span.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:41 PM
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Both wings have the same amount of dihedral. The bottom wing is just a tad shorter, so you can't measure from the tip of the bottom wing to the table. Due to the lack of span, the distance to the top of the tip from the table would be different.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:43 PM
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Thank You, even as long as I have owned this plane I didn't realize there was so much dihedral in the top wing. Again, Thanks. Good luck with your Waco.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:16 AM
  #88
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Well, 3" is not much on a 6 foot wing. It's only 2 degrees per side. The dihedral is dictated by the little bitty wing joiners (parts W-11 and W-11-A. There is not much dihedral, but a WACO YMF with a flat wing doesn't look right.

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Old 08-23-2006, 05:05 PM
  #89
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O.K. Bill - Have read all of the posts, and find them very interesting. But the model to me is just too small. Since you are going to scan the parts, why not enlarge them on a copy machine, and come up with a really nice model for a DA-100, similar to Balsa USA's Stearman. That airplane flies so good on a 100 cc engine and is so impressive - the Waco would do likewise. That way, the model is not lost - you are paractically there already with a new kit. Redraw the plans if necessary, or have them enlarged at Kinkos.

Can't be sure, but I might know Bull from Webster, NY. I used to fly with those guys at meets in and around Rochester, Phelps, and Syracuse, NY. Nice guys, even if they fly ARF's. I have no time for ARF's myself, but there are a lot of them flying at our club, and to be perfectly honest, if it wasn't for them, we would have a lot less activity. So they do serve a good purpose by maintaining our club membership, which keeps the club healthy; therefore, we welcome ARF's no matter what.

Now then - what kind of cars do you sell?



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Old 08-23-2006, 05:43 PM
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Default RE: WACO YMF

The Bow Tie brand. We do Chevy's Jim.

As to not having time for
ARF's, mine are ARF's just before I start the engine. Then they are RTF.

I have been thinking about expanding the parts to about 30% scale. I think that would be large enough for me.

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Old 08-23-2006, 07:28 PM
  #91
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Well, I bought a new 2005 Chevy Silverado LS pickup last year. Now I'm in the market for a new Mercury. Mine is a 2003 and is in mint condition - probably stupid for wanting a new one. Oh well - it's only money.

Yes - 30% scale would be perfect for lots of builders. For many years I made kits of various models. For your model, a short kit consisting of all curved and all plywood parts would go over good. That's how I sold the 1/4 scale Stearman and sold lots of them. But - you are too busy to even think about making kits - there's very little profit in them - and it eats up all your spare time besides. So just leave that job to the kit cutters.

I'm surprised that you have time to build like you do. I've been retired now going on 21 years, so designing and building models keeps me alive. I'm thinking of doing a 1/2 scale model of my sons Vans RV-6A, for a ?? engine. It would only have a span of 11.5 ft. so that's smaller than my J-3 Cub at 40% or my Stinson SR-10 at 30%, both with 100 cc engines.

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Old 08-23-2006, 08:13 PM
  #92
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Can't be sure, but I might know Bull from Webster, NY. I used to fly with those guys at meets in and around Rochester, Phelps, and Syracuse, NY. Nice guys, even if they fly ARF's. I have no time for ARF's myself, but there are a lot of them flying at our club, and to be perfectly honest, if it wasn't for them, we would have a lot less activity. So they do serve a good purpose by maintaining our club membership, which keeps the club healthy; therefore, we welcome ARF's no matter what.

Now then - what kind of cars do you sell?




[/quote]

Hi Jim

Yes, LOL it is me... You know you need to spend more time up here... Iv'e been looking for 2 yrs for someone to build me a 1/3 scale Fokker... Problem is I'm a POOR CAR Salesman... Darn owners won't pay me enough... or give me enough time off... I only have Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Jeep & Chrysler to sell. Besides FL is a long ways to deliver... Bob Jencosa is building the 1/4 scale Balsa Fokker and he has the PUP already...
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Old 08-23-2006, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Jim Messer

Well, I bought a new 2005 Chevy Silverado LS pickup last year. Now I'm in the market for a new Mercury. Mine is a 2003 and is in mint condition - probably stupid for wanting a new one. Oh well - it's only money.

Yes - 30% scale would be perfect for lots of builders. For many years I made kits of various models. For your model, a short kit consisting of all curved and all plywood parts would go over good. That's how I sold the 1/4 scale Stearman and sold lots of them. But - you are too busy to even think about making kits - there's very little profit in them - and it eats up all your spare time besides. So just leave that job to the kit cutters.

I'm surprised that you have time to build like you do. I've been retired now going on 21 years, so designing and building models keeps me alive. I'm thinking of doing a 1/2 scale model of my sons Vans RV-6A, for a ?? engine. It would only have a span of 11.5 ft. so that's smaller than my J-3 Cub at 40% or my Stinson SR-10 at 30%, both with 100 cc engines.

Jim,

I have found that you make the time to do what you want to do. For years I have set aside a small amount of time each day for building. This is probably what keeps me semi-sane. I'm starting to think about retirement, and making short kits might be something that would interest me.

Sorry, no Merc's at my store. Oops, we just traded for an 05. Ugly as sin though. We'll probably take that one down to Ocoee for the auction.

To Bull-RCU:

If you want to make more money, hold your gross. Sell more units, quit blowing your spiff maney of ARF's, and stay the Hell off the computer when you're supposed to be doing your prospecting.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:59 AM
  #94
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Bill: If you ever decide to get into the short kit business, be sure to get in touch with me, and I can give you some really good advice on how best to go about it. I learned a lot of tricks over the years in producing kits, and every kit I produced was a piece of art; nobody ever came back complaining. Instead I got remarks like - "these pieces fit so good, you don't even need glue". I hung a big sign in my workshop that said "Autograph Your Work With Excellence", so that was in front of me all the time I was making kits. If ever a part looked off-color, it was trashed right then and there. I got a lot of good reviews in the magazines.

To BULL-RCU: I thought we knew each other. Thanks for your post confirming that fact. It will be building season soon in your area, so in between selling a car or two, build a plane or two.

As for me, it will be time to both build and fly. Right now, it's too hot to do much of either.

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Old 08-24-2006, 07:03 PM
  #95
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Jim, I'm not too far from Sebring. I'm up on US-27/441. You should come up to our field sometime. We fly at the Ocala flying models club. In Belleview.

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Old 08-25-2006, 11:16 PM
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I have to ask is that primer automotive primer surfacer with a placticizer added to it or is it something else allot of that stuff is getting hard to grt your hands on with all the new enviromental rules thanx Chris ,p.s its still looking real nice keep up the great work where not all dead yet!
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:54 AM
  #97
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It's just plain old DuPont primer-surfacer. This is the high-build formula, and I do not add a plasticizer to it. We have gotten away from adding flex agents to the refinishing process. Keep the number of coats to a minimum, and the plasticizers are not necessary. Obviously, if you are going to really build up the layers of paint, then at some point, you will begin to get the, "Crow's feet", in the paint, and no amount of plasticizer will stop that. I have tried several different kinds of primer over the years, from the scratch and dent kind, to the etching epoxies. I have found that for my applications, plain old primer surfacer works best. It sands out nicely, and once you allow the media to outgas, the added weight is negligable. The added benefit is that you reduce the blushing if you allow this stuff to outgas, and shrink for a couple of weeks before proceeding.

I have one of the best painters that I have ever met in our body shop, and he has taught me several new techniques that have proven worthwhile in the hobby field. Since I started to listen to him, my finishes have improved drastically. Goes to prove, Surround yourself with the best people you can hire, and then listen to them.

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Old 08-27-2006, 05:52 AM
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I will be applying the Koverall to the lower wing today, and doping it out. Primer, and sanding, and here comes the color. Yippee!

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Old 08-27-2006, 08:03 AM
  #99
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Stickbuilder is using Koveral-doping-priming-and painting lighter than using Solartex and a clear coat? Thanks for your expertise.

PS: Trying to decide how to finish my Smith Miniplane.
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Old 08-27-2006, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: dogfight

Stickbuilder is using Koveral-doping-priming-and painting lighter than using Solartex and a clear coat? Thanks for your expertise.

PS: Trying to decide how to finish my Smith Miniplane.
I have no idea. I have never used Solartex. I only used iron-on once, and that was Monokote several years ago. Didn't like the stuff. It has no character. I do know that if you are careful with your preparation and application, cloth and dope/paint is fairly lightweight, and very strong. Wish I could be more helpful. Maybe some of the other guys can be helpful here.

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