Tony V.

I will try to show the ad.

airplanegeek

thats one dang nice looking machine..its not the cox arf for sure.

WacoNut

Who will be the 1st one to buy one and strip the plastic stuff off and give it a fabric finish? A little TLC and that can be a really nice looking Waco.

fishinchickens

I'm finallygetting to buildagain. Schools been getting in the way to much. I have been able to finish the tail wheel set up and theaccess hatch. I have also almostfinishedthe wing tip lights. I have been able to set up a system that does not have any external wires. I am running the lights off of a 9v battery that is mounted in the fuselage. Off of the battery I am running a positive andnegativewire through the struts.I then have contacts that go to the circuit that I put on here a few months ago. I'm planning on putting a diagram on here to explain better. Here are a few pictures to show how I did it. It isn't pretty as of now. I have not gotten to do any sanding.

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

fishingchickens, Looks interesting and look foreward to your diagram.

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Dan, the CG should be close to correct when you have enough up elevator to make a full stall gentle landing at idle or deadstick. If you're running out of elevator you may be a bit noseheavy (or don't have enough throw). To fly our Wacos inverted should take significant forward pressure but no more than about 1/2 stick. An aerobatic flip flop ship needs you to only breathe forward stick when inverted. Mitch

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Mitch,

Thanks for the info I will leave the CG alone for now. I believe I have plenty elevator for a gentle landing just have to get better at it. LOL.

Stickbuilder

Dan,

You just need some more practice. The balance on yours is just fine. Now just let it warm up a bit, and go fly.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Live Wire

Bill
SLOW down, Your moving to fast and need some rest. Great to see you back. Have a speedy recovery and then slow down a little
Larry K

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

Bill, glad you are home ,And hope you have a speedy.

Jacque
Waco Brotherhood # 27

airplanegeek

Glad you are doing ok Bill

Question for the fabric covering group. Do you/haveyou coverd the entire fuse/gear with fabric or just the open bay areas. I am trying to decide what will be best. I have limited experiance covering models with fabric as I have always used Monokote. I will be useing the new Stewart Systems water based covering system that has been recently approved for full scale aircraft. Top coat will probably be automotive urethane. I will be using fabric store polyester from wal-mart. I weighed a sample and it turns out that it is 1.8oz per sg/yd. coinidentally the same as Stits Lite. I did a sample over an old picture frame and am very happy with the results. For 15 bucks I bought 6 yds of the stuff so I should be good for a couple of planes!

skylarkmk1

apg,

Generally, if it is not covered by a fairing, it's fabric covered except for struts, wires, sheet metal areas (hatches, louvers, wing fairings) and other such metal items. The modern Wacos have a metal landing gear fairing; many of the originals have fabric fairings. Pick out a subject plane, get as many pictures of it that you can and study them closely and you will see what is fabric covered and what is not. Wings are fabric covered completely (Y/UMFs have corrugated aluminum ailerons), just like money Kote, the same with the fuselage. All ribs or stingers have reinforcing tapes applied as well as all edges such as the leading edges and wing tips of the wings. Wing tip tapes are normally cut on the bias to conform to the multiple curves.

There are many pictures in this thread on covering as well as many other threads that show how it is done. If possible, get over to the local airport and look at some fabric covered aircraft. It does not have to be a Waco; Cubs, Stearman, Staggerwings, Fairchild’s or just about any fabric covered plane follows the same formula for covering. Talk with the owners or someone who restores fabric or antique aircraft, they know quite a lot about their plane (or planes). Try to look at a plane being recovered, it is basically done just like a model, only the parts are bigger.

What would you do to the solid areas if you only cover the open areas?

WacoNut

Hi Guys,
Just wanted to let you guys know I finally ordered my Hatz Classic plans today. I have spent many hours browsing build threads in the homebuilding forums and I believe I have a good idea what I am up against. When it is all said and done(5-7 yrs from now and alot lighter pockets) I will have a nice pseudo Waco. I may wind up with a Lycoming powered version as I am still trying to wrap my head around the $$$$ for the radial. The Lycoming would be 1/3 the cost and just as much fun and 1/2 the fuel burn. I will start building the rib jigs over the Holidays, I will ocassionally drop in to give you updates if interested.
Later!!
Anthony

fire fly 58

Hi guys , I recently lost the vertical stabs on my Cox 1/5 scale Waco. It's repairable but will need a total recovering. I don't think I want to recover with fabric, just don't want to spend that much money on this model. I'm thinking about Ultracote and need the nearest match of the yellow and red and suggestions

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

do it right use the fabric you will not be happy with that plastic stuff

Tony V.

They were really covered with Sigcote the colors are just slightly off like from different lot #. It works very good.

fishinchickens

While subject offabric is up. Is there a fabric Ican use to cover with that will not involve using dope? I have tried using both kinds along with many brands without running into this problem.As soon as Iopen the can up Ialmost instantly can't breath and can hardly make it back inside to get help. I'm not sure what it is but if Ieven get a slight whiff of it Ican't tell which way is up or which way is down. It's almost so bad that ifIeven see a can ofthe darn stuffIstart feeling bad.It just knocks me out.

amscat

There are a number of iron-on fabric coverings that aren't too bad (Solartex and Century 21 Fabric come to mind). You can get a neutral colour or silver and then paint overit if you don't like the stock colours. Not necessarily the best solution but it doesn't smell!

aminiet

I used Century 21 iron on fabric on my JN 4 Jenny, and it came out ok. other than that and the Solartex suggestion, the only other thing is that all of these products need to be applied in a well ventilated area plus you may need to use a respirator for fumes, not dust which is the mistake I see people make.

Angel

skylarkmk1

fire fly and fishinchickens,

I believe there are some water based paints such as Minwax (check with Waconut) for the clear and Nelsons (http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html) and Warbirds (http://www.warbirdcolors.com/) as well as water based paints (such as Behr) from the local paint or big box store for color. The advantage of using the house paints is they can be mixed to match a sample color such as the material used on the Cox planes.

Do not use waterbase paints directly on balsa, it will cause the wood to swell. You will need to use some sort of sealer such as a solvent based sanding sealer. And maybe a respirator as Angel suggested (check with the guys at the paint store, I use a 3M brand that is rated for solvents (carbon filters)).

Both Nelsons and Warbirds are fuel proof (Warbirds requires a catalyst to make it fuel proof and may need a strong solvent to clean up dried paint)

Also see the article by Roy Vaillancourt; Latex House Paints for Models Parts 1 & 2

WacoNut

With Latex you will need to use a clear coat with nitro fuels. The latex will get gooey with nitro. It is fine with Gas. I have my 33% Waco and 33% Cub painted with latex. I covered the Waco with Sig Koverall attached with dope and filled the weave with Polycrylic. The Cub is covered with Solartex and 3 coats of latex sprayed on to make it more opaque. The Solartex is too transparent for my taste right out of the package.
FYI: I hear Nelson's is now out of business. I had used his clear on a few planes and it was good stuff.
Anthony

skylarkmk1

Waconut,

I was just on the Nelsons site and it appears you are correct. From the Nelson website 3 Nov 2010;

"I am temporarily shutting down Nelson Aircraft, Nelson Hobby Specialties, and Nelson Hobby Direct.....Our on-line shopping cart is not active at this time.

I am in the process of actively seeking a buyer for my company ...

Our web site will be still active and will provided notice for any change in the status of my business. Communications to me can be done by regular mail or by E-Mail Me".

WacoNut

Thats a shame, Jerry was always helpful on the phone if you needed help as I did the 1st time I sprayed his clear. I hope things work out for him.
Anthony

skylarkmk1

Anthony,

Jerry also stated that at age 73 his health is not that good and that he is under treatment which wears him out. For those interested, you can read the whole story on the Nelson website on the home page

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Fishingchickings, I use Solortex/World-tex and there's no odor [to me ].If you want to paint it try Wal Mart for the Kry lon raddle can
which is OK for gas if you are using glow then use Rust Olem. I M O