Garthwood

Sorry Bill.......but I don't think the reason of the resin gelling up has anything to do with expiration. I think it's the quality of this product. I noticed the same issue at our LHS when I checked a couple on the store's display. The bottom part of the Resin started to gel (turning more opaque). I have emailed Great Planes about this issue. I'm quite surprised, this is a "Made in the USA" product.
I have no issue with the Hardener but the quality of the Resin is sub-standard.

Also...........if there has to be an expiration date, I don't see it on the packaging. It's a standard requirement.

aminiet

Gentlemen.

Adding a little acetone will extend the hardening time to epoxy adhesi

ves as well as extending the hardening time on polyurethane paints.

Garthwood

Not quite what we're discussing here.

Jim Henley

Going to try this again, first photo shows sectioning the trailing edge, second is the hinge and bass wood trailing edge, third the complete assembly. I used 10 inch hinge, nomber 0 wood screws and pinned the bass wood and balsa together.

Jim Henley

This is the servo setup which goes through the trailing edge, eliminating the servo arms and link hanging in the air stream. The servo is mounted where it can be removed, but the only way I could get the proper clearance was to build a mount between the ribs, then screw the servo and its mount to the wing structure. The aileron horn is let into the leading edge of the aileron, the last picture is the completed set up. It works very well, I get the necessary range of motion and the hinge action is real smooth.

Jim Henley

Thank you Bill for the offer to upload the photos, but I got them to go through.

Stickbuilder

Jim,

I like the way you have set up the ailerons. I'm using a bellcrank (like the full scale) with the servo mounted to an adjacent rib bay. They will drive the aileron from the inboard corner of the aileron.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, No need for a bellcrank if you drive the aileron from the front corner as is scale. I mounted the servo so that it's drive horn linked to the aileron with a short rod ball linked at each end....exactly scale. Just the servo drive ball end protrudes through an arc slotted cover made of lithoplate. Mitch

Stickbuilder

Mitch,

You don't have the space problem within the wing that we do. I can't get a servo to fit in that part of the wing without sticking out of the open bay. [:@]

Bill, Waco Brother #1

WacoNut

Bill that is why bigger is better

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Ahhhhhhh. You're right. I never thought of space requirements. Mitch

Stickbuilder

Bigger is why I'm working on the 27% drawings.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

mogman

Good morning gentlemen.

Sitting here waiting for Fedex to deliver the 40% Waco.(supposed to be here this morning) I want to order my covering and tapes from F&M Stits, and after reading through most of the posts here (took a while!!) I would like to find out the sizes of finishing tapes etc. used on the full size.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B # 180

skylarkmk1

Mogman,

2� is normal for ribs and stringers

3� bias (45°) for wing tips and compound curves

6� for leading edges applied over the ends of the tapes on the ribs.

Waco Joe can be more specific.

keye

OK..hope this is not hyjacking a thread......been building my waco all winter and my god what a beautiful plane it is becoming...all structure is well on its way...wings, stabilizer and fin all built.....while i keep going I have 2 questions to ask so I can pretty well read on the subjects and learn...first, getting away from the mono coverings, what would be a good suggestion as for covering, I would love to make thios look as a original as I can, second, the stabilizer, from what I can see it is glues to the frame?????? if so and that is the only procedure what would you suggest, a good epoxy...I toyed with the idea ob building up some meat under the F18 slab which the stab sits on and adding some screws from the bottom........the only issue I have with this kit is the engine supports, when I decide on which power plant I would be using, with this setup the engine sits upright, I was hoping to angle the engine down some so the exhast would be running out the bottom, I will be going with a 4 stroke and try and stay away from the big bulky muffler......again, thanx in advance, now starts the build frame where I will have many questions.......thanx again

skylarkmk1

Keye,

Covering - Sig Koverall is the preferred covering with dope. Clear Nitrate dope to attach and fill the weave and then Butyrate dope for color for an authentic finish. Others have used Latex or other paints for color over the nitrate dope or they have used the iron on fabric coverings.

Stabilizer - When built according to the plans, the stab is glued to the stab mount on the fuselage. Make sure you have the recommended +2° incidence indicated on the plans.

Engine mounting – I am taking a guess that your Waco is 1/5th scale. Check the incidence on your mounts; it should be 0° down and 0° right/left, no offset at all. Use a Flex tube exhaust on a four stroke and you can exhaust out the bottom of the cowl. As the pictures indicate, your Waco is nearly complete building wise; it is a little late to change much. Others have eliminated the wood beam mounts and beefed up the firewall in favor of using a radial mount to rotate the engine to the side or inverted or have used a twin such as the Saito 160 or even gas engines. Suggest in your situation, the Saito 120 4S single Cylinder or maybe the 150 to power your Waco (see a picture of the Saito 150 installed page 21, post 516).

Also suggest starting at the beginning and reading through this lengthy thread. Many of your questions will be answered in more detail before you even think of the question. Alternative ways of doing things will also be suggested.

keye

thankyou.........and yes it is the 1/5

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello all,

It was just a beautiful day today in the 70s 5 to 10 mph winds running strait down the runway and best of all I didn’t have to work so off to the field I went. Had three good flights with the Waco and enjoyed all three. Rudder Rudder Rudder (I’m learning)
Hope to go back out Sunday and get in a few more flights.

Keye

Your Waco’s looking good. I used solartex covering on mine and painted her. This was my first time using solartex and I loved it.

Stickbuilder

Dan, I'm glad you got in some good flights. See the rudder is your friend.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Garthwood

And the WIND is your friend too !

Charles.

williec30

is there such as thing as a removable cockpit cover, pre-made that is? i've seen some custom hatch style and leather covered styles here... anyone using magnets?

skylarkmk1

Williec30,

For the Pica Kits, no. The early plans (pre 1990) had a pattern for a soft forward cockpit cover for the builder to fashion his own (material not included in the kit). See the House of Moy site http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ 1/5th plans sheet #3 for the template. The 1990 plans (AMA #35406) do not have this template.

For the other kits out there I do not have an answer.

Full scale Wacos have used either a soft forward cockpit cover or a hard cover (usually metal) that folds for storage. The forward cover is often used when flying solo, The front and rear cockpit (and sometimes the cowl) is usually covered with a soft (canvas or nylon (Sunbrella)) cover for those times when a hanger or other shelter is not available.

P1 – UBF NC 201K with front soft cover
P2 – UBF NC 155Y with front hard cover
P3 – UPF NC 39727 with one piece front/rear cover
P4 – UPF NC 39727 with cowl/engine cover

froghair1

I see a gentleman is offering plans and patterns for a waco cto in quarter scale on ebay. problem is he states an all up weight of 26 pounds. Does this sound even close,for a 91 inch wing.

keye

Mrdhud...thanx for the tip on the covering..........

WacoNut

26lbs sounds a bit light, I wound up around 30lbs with my Pepino Waco all detailed out.