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WACO YMF

Old 07-12-2012, 07:16 AM
  #15101
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Joe,
After reading your explanation it makes sense.Thanks
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:12 PM
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Joe,
After reading your explanation it makes sense.Thanks

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Old 07-12-2012, 04:46 PM
  #15103
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Joe
that G-26 fly your waco ok, thinking about butting one in mine or G-23.
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:11 PM
  #15104
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  Brothers, Finally have all my parts cut, sanded and fine tuned, finaly ready for some construction. Where to start?  I think I might begin on sat with the fuse. read both manuals. any suggestions befor I start. Dan, Bill , Robert are you ready for some questions?  i was not satisfied with the 1/8 and 1/4 plywood I got so that delayed me for a while. 1/8 was only 3 ply and not too stable. Well, I guess all is a go for sat. Thanks in advance for all your help, I couldn't have gotten this far if it wasn't for all you guy's. George

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Old 07-13-2012, 02:36 PM
  #15105
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Brothers, Finally have all my parts cut, sanded and fine tuned, finaly ready for some construction. Where to start? I think I might begin on sat with the fuse. read both manuals. any suggestions befor I start. Dan, Bill , Robert are you ready for some questions? i was not satisfied with the 1/8 and 1/4 plywood I got so that delayed me for a while. 1/8 was only 3 ply and not too stable. Well, I guess all is a go for sat. Thanks in advance for all your help, I couldn't have gotten this far if it wasn't for all you guy's. George

All right George I know your glade all those parts are cut out. I will just say build as light as you can if you can cut out a piece of wood with out sacrificing strength the cut it out this old bird can get heavy quick. Have fun and post pictures of your progress.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:42 PM
  #15106
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Came across this sight with the wing being built for a UPF-7 vary interesting.

http://www.evergreenaviationservices...letewings.html
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:14 PM
  #15107
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Well thanks Dan, It's been a long time coming, but I'm finally here. I don't know if I'm going to move the spar locations, probably build just as plans say. I will do the scale tips, just don't want to get into any real cutting, if you know what I mean. Sick of cutting, for now maybe I'll change my mind. just want to build.
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Brothers, Finally have all my parts cut, sanded and fine tuned, finaly ready for some construction. Where to start? I think I might begin on sat with the fuse. read both manuals. any suggestions befor I start. Dan, Bill , Robert are you ready for some questions? i was not satisfied with the 1/8 and 1/4 plywood I got so that delayed me for a while. 1/8 was only 3 ply and not too stable. Well, I guess all is a go for sat. Thanks in advance for all your help, I couldn't have gotten this far if it wasn't for all you guy's. George

All right George I know your glade all those parts are cut out. I will just say build as light as you can if you can cut out a piece of wood with out sacrificing strength the cut it out this old bird can get heavy quick. Have fun and post pictures of your progress.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:12 PM
  #15108
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George, put in lightening holes in the formers (look back at photos of mine) and lighten the ribs. Build a balance beam and pair up the ribs as well. Light flys best.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:23 PM
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George, put in lightening holes in the formers (look back at photos of mine) and lighten the ribs. Build a balance beam and pair up the ribs as well. Light flys best.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, can you remember what post your pic were on. My ribs are cut from 3/32 balsa, not the 5/32. I will put 2- 1/2 inch holes in them as well. I can cut 3/4 or 1" holes in the formers. All remaining parts were cut from the 5/32 balsa. I don't know how much lighter I can get, any suggestions, please do tell,open to all suggestions. George
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:56 AM
  #15110
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Bill, can you remember what post your pic were on. My ribs are cut from 3/32 balsa, not the 5/32. I will put 2- 1/2 inch holes in them as well. I can cut 3/4 or 1'' holes in the formers. All remaining parts were cut from the 5/32 balsa. I don't know how much lighter I can get, any suggestions, please do tell,open to all suggestions. George
Back in the spring of 2007 or thereabout.

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Old 07-15-2012, 08:39 AM
  #15111
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Thanks Bill I'll find them. George
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:00 AM
  #15112
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The trick is to lighten things up without sacrificing strength. You can actually increase the surface area of a part by cutting lightening holes in it.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:09 AM
  #15113
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The trick is to lighten things up without sacrificing strength. You can actually increase the surface area of a part by cutting lightening holes in it.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, I found your pics and started to cut my lightning holes, The registry on page one will take you basically to any subject you want , fuse const or wing tips ect. Vey helpful, answered all questions for now. I want to do the adjustable stab also. scale wing tips. Did you go with the setup in your fuse pics for the tail wheel? There are many options, just want to keep it simple and functionable. Thanks for your help. George
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:31 AM
  #15114
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Hi WACOBrotherhood,

I'm plugging along on my 1/5 Pica kit and I'm maybe 2/3 finished with the basic structure. Ihave the tail feathers finished, the bottom wing completed and the fuselage about 85%finished. I'm beginning to look ahead to the covering and finishing stages. I looked at Khodges posts on covering with Koverall and noticed he also mentioned Solartex.. A friend of mine just finished up a 1/4 scale SE-5 and covered it with Solartex. He really likes it and even sent me a sample of the stuff.I was prepared to go with Koverall and have already bought a package along with the Balsarite for fabric. For what it's worth, the Koverall mics at .003" and the Solartex was .004", so Koverall should be lighter.

I have been covering planes since back in the days of silkspan and dope. Idid one large model with 21st Century prepainted Coverite and liked it, but it was HEAVY! What is the over consensus here on the best material for this model? Iassume almost all non-prepainted fabrics require a few coats of Nitrate dope? yes or no? How about the priming (if neccessary) and final color coats. Ilike KlassKote for my glassed models and was wondering how it holds up on a fabric model. Would it crack after time? Would you still need a silver base coat to block the UV? Lots of questions!Sorry. I know a lot of guys arenow using a water based finish which is low in odor. Comments on this? Wouldthe water based finishes take an automotive type clear coat? A good subject too persue to get a good cross section on the different finishes in use.

Thanks, guys.

Joe
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:12 AM
  #15115
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Stickbuilder.................this thread grew quite a bit since i visited it last. My question is : I have a Pica YMF 3/6 Waco 1:6 th. scale, i'm in need of a back up fibreglass Cowl. Can someone tell me where i can purchase one please. Thanks

Charles.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:25 PM
  #15116
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Charles try Fiberteck n more or Fiberglass specialties.
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:43 PM
  #15117
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Dash, FWIW, my two Koverall covered models use: Waco, Solarlac (Fuselage) and Ally dope (Cellulose paint) on the wings, all sealed with plasticised two pot (epoxy) clear. Ten years old now and the Solarlac has sun faded, but no paint crazing. Koverall was sealed with about 6 coats of sprayed nitrate dope. The Seimens has been finished with water based house paint (test pots) with two pot flattened and plasticised clear, over about three coats of brushed nitrate dope. This finish is too new to make any longevity claims, but there was no finish interaction, and nothing has cracked, crazed of loosened, yet. The Pfalz is a bit over twenty years old, but it is nylon acetate covered, with cellulose spray paint over the doped fabric. It got a rattle can clear spray ('eggshell' type semi-gloss) which has worn some in the oily/scrubbed places.
Evan, WB #12.
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:04 PM
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Dash, FWIW, my two Koverall covered models use: Waco, Solarlac (Fuselage) and Ally dope (Cellulose paint) on the wings, all sealed with plasticised two pot (epoxy) clear. Ten years old now and the Solarlac has sun faded, but no paint crazing. Koverall was sealed with about 6 coats of sprayed nitrate dope. The Seimens has been finished with water based house paint (test pots) with two pot flattened and plasticised clear, over about three coats of brushed nitrate dope. This finish is too new to make any longevity claims, but there was no finish interaction, and nothing has cracked, crazed of loosened, yet. The Pfalz is a bit over twenty years old, but it is nylon acetate covered, with cellulose spray paint over the doped fabric. It got a rattle can clear spray ('eggshell' type semi-gloss) which has worn some in the oily/scrubbed places.
Evan, WB #12.
Pimmnz,

Thanks for your comments. I hope to get many more, but it sounds like you are quite satisfied with the Koverall. You guys have different product names in NZ as I have never heard of Solarlac or Ally dope. Iassume that is a trade name. Ididn't realize that dope was a cellulose paint. Is that both nitrate and butyrate dope?

Joe
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:41 PM
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Joe, I don't know if you recall my paint job so I will post it. I used Koverall  and stits paint system. My next one will get polyfiber from Aircraftspruce, wider rolls and tighter weave. If I recall correctly the paint job only added a few ounces to the airframe. The maiden on it was one year ago, 7/ 21/2011, and it still look's as good as the day I sprayed it. And I let it set in the sun when I'm at the field.
Love my Waco!

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Old 07-17-2012, 03:16 PM
  #15120
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Joe, I don't know if you recall my paint job so I will post it. I used Koverall and stits paint system. My next one will get polyfiber from Aircraftspruce, wider rolls and tighter weave. If I recall correctly the paint job only added a few ounces to the airframe. The maiden on it was one year ago, 7/ 21/2011, and it still look's as good as the day I sprayed it. And I let it set in the sun when I'm at the field.
Love my Waco!

Acerc,

No, I'm afraid I don't remember your model. I have probably seen it on here as Ihave looked extensively for information. It's hard to believe any fabric could have a much tighter weave than the Koverall. It looks pretty tight!

Is the Stits system water based. Icould look it up, but right now, Ifeel lazy. Since my wife is very odor sensitive, and Imean VERY, I'm looking fora good low odor product that has a nice shine or can be clear coated. Thanks for your reply,

Joe

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Old 07-17-2012, 03:16 PM
  #15121
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Joe,

I have been using Koverall for years, and have finished it with both automotive finishes, as well as with Nitrate dope with a Butyrate finish. My doped finishes will last in the 20 year neighborhood before it begins to crack and blister. The automotive finishes are on par with the Lacquer. The Cessna 195 was glassed and then finished with Klass Kote. The finish is 4 years old and looks great. I plan to cover the current construction Waco with Solartex. I think it will be a little lighter than all the coats of dope and auto paint. The Quarter Scale Ryan will get Klass Kote as well.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:32 PM
  #15122
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No Joe the stits is not water based or lacking of strong odor. My next suggestion would to be Latex, water soluable and virtually no odor.
But I still rec. the Aircraftspruce's polyfiber. It does have a much tighter weave. Easier to fill.
Good luck my friend!
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:09 PM
  #15123
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Dash, Solarlac is Solarfilm's paint to match and be painted on Solarfilm films. The Ally paint is ...aluminium based cellulose lacquer, trade name Duco. Nitrate and Butyrate dopes are simply different cellulose type bases, they do basically the same thing. All are probably from aircraft stocks, the stuff we have here is likely re-packaged Randolph dopes.
Evan, WB #12.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:25 PM
  #15124
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Robert, Hi long time since we had the pleasure of talking. I have a questiion for you. You did mention you used a thicker landing gear piano wire. what size did you use for your landing gear. Was it thicker than 5/32? George
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:46 PM
  #15125
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Hi George. Yes it has been a while. The new wire for the main's are 7/32. 1/8 for the rest. So far it has not budged.
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