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Thread: WACO YMF


  1. #15751
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe,

    If you have the proper shears (scissors) with the correct "pinked" spacing you can cut your own biased tapes from the covering fabric, just cut at 45Β° to the weave. The tough part is cutting the tape with parallel sides.

    In the photo of the wing the tip tape starts at the transition from straight to curve (in this case at the marker light base) around to the trailing edge.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    John,

    Idon't have any pinking shears. The tape I'm using actually has 25 pinks to the inch (1/5 scale). They may not even show up once I'm finished. I jut hope the Solar Tex tape has enough stretch and shrink to form to the curves. We'll see.

    Joe
    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi Joe, Don't try to fill the pinked edges. If you scaled down from the full scale you could never them. On my 1/3d I tried to leave the pinks showing as well as the rib stitching and the craftsmanship judge at TopGun remarked about the good surface detail.
    BTW I used automotive basecoat clearcoat for a very shiny surface dirctly over the Solartex so the weave peeked through on close inspection. Mitch WB100

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi Mitch,

    Thanks for the tips!Maybe I won't put so much dope on this baby after all. I'm guessing I will need at least three coats on the stitching, just to seal it good. The big difference is I'm using Koverall for my covering rather than the Solartex, so it does need filing where the Solartex needs very little if any.

    Thanks,

    Joe


    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Yeah, you're right that the Koverall needs filling more than the Solartex. Don't try to get a shiny filled dope finish though. Mitch

  6. #15756
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hey Guys,

    Over in the Don Smith Cessna T-50 thread, rhsmrt50 is building a1/5th scale Jacobs engine (dummy, resin cast) that has others beat hands down. Take a look starting about post 792 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...32/key_/tm.htm and check it out. Pay attention to post 831.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    His dummy Jacobs is a work of art!

    Joe
    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Yes it is, the detail is simply fantastic, wonder if one would work in front of a 30 .cc Syssa
    Jim,
    WACO Brotherhood #3, AMA 816592, IMAA 41683,

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I have to put 14 screws in the a wheel fairing cover for third scale Waco. Any ideas of a simple way to evenly space the holes around the perimeter of the part?

    Chuck
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    WACO Brother #233

  10. #15760
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Chuck, why don't you use a piece of string, or other flexible strand, and measure the circumference of the shape. Then divide this measurement into 14. Then place marks at the appropriate spacing on the string and wrap it back around the faring to transpose the marks onto the fairing.

    James.
    WACO Brotherhood #228
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    RE: WACO YMF

    James,

    Thanks for the suggestion. About ten minutes after posting the question, I ran a piece of masking tape around the perimeter and marked the spaces on that. Just what you suggested, but with tape.

    Chuck
    WACO Brother #233

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    RE: WACO YMF

    You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

    Just my 2 cents.....
    WACO Brotherhood #150
    Club Saito # 813
    \"Death Before ARF\"

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

    You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

    Just my 2 cents.....
    Good idea, except that you need a way to find out what the distance between the screws is first. You could use the string/tape method, followed by the dividers.

    James.
    WACO Brotherhood #228
    Ryan STA/STM Brotherhood #26

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hello,

    Some new photos ... These two small forms I need to do first.

    Albert
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    Albert

    Waco Brother #229

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Looking good, Albert. I assume this will be available as a kit some day soon?

    James.
    WACO Brotherhood #228
    Ryan STA/STM Brotherhood #26

  16. #15766
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Well I finally ordered my parts from AMR to rebuild my Waco. After looking it over and talking it over with Dany from AMR it was deemed necessary to build a new fuse. Too much structural damage in critical strength areas to attemp a repair. I had Dany cut me new fuse parts and ship me a new cowling. I should have all the parts in hand around the Holidays. I hate building something twice but the Waco was just too nice to scrap out.
    The rebuild will not take that long but the covering and detailing will be a stretch to get it all completed before spring.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: jymster


    ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

    You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

    Just my 2 cents.....
    Good idea, except that you need a way to find out what the distance between the screws is first. You could use the string/tape method, followed by the dividers.

    James.
    When I was still doing Sheet Metal repairer on Army Aircraft, all I needed was the starting point. You stated that you want 14 screws to hold the fairing, so find the point you want to start and walk the dividers 14 times. Adjust the distance to make it walk the pitch in or out until you have your 14 points and end up back at the point you started.
    WACO Brotherhood #150
    Club Saito # 813
    \"Death Before ARF\"

  18. #15768
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    RE: WACO YMF

    ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

    When I was still doing Sheet Metal repairer on Army Aircraft, all I needed was the starting point. You stated that you want 14 screws to hold the fairing, so find the point you want to start and walk the dividers 14 times. Adjust the distance to make it walk the pitch in or out until you have your 14 points and end up back at the point you started.
    Yes, will also work, but a lot of trial and error involved. Whatever works, I say.

    James.
    WACO Brotherhood #228
    Ryan STA/STM Brotherhood #26

  19. #15769
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Anthony,
    Glad to see you getting the Waco repaired. Hopefully it will go easy & fast for ya. I know you painted your Waco with latex paint but did you clear coat it and if so what did you use. I have a plane covered with solortex that need to be sealed with some thing.
    Dan Hudson WACO Brotherhood #45
    GIT-ER-DUN \"Build a WACO\"

  20. #15770
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: mrdhud

    Anthony,
    Glad to see you getting the Waco repaired. Hopefully it will go easy & fast for ya. I know you painted your Waco with latex paint but did you clear coat it and if so what did you use. I have a plane covered with solortex that need to be sealed with some thing.

    Dan, Don't forget about weight. Filling weave really put's on the pounds.

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I'm trying to come up with a way to seal Koverall that remains light. I'm thinking about using Minnwax Polycryl. It is water based, and once the water evaporates, it should be fairly light. Comments?

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Okay, Here is the roster to date.

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    Bill, AMA 4720
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    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi Bill, Polycrylic should do just fine on coverall. What paint will you use over it? Mitch

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    RE: WACO YMF

    How about.. dope? Nitrate specifically. It's a great sealer and helps with closing the weave. Probably the lightest there is.
    BobH.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.


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