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Thread: WACO YMF


  1. #15826
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Mike,
    Glad to see your build is going good. I am well into the rebuild of my AMR 1/3 fuse. Much easier the 2nd time around.

    Chuck,
    I buy enough 3M fine line masking tape to do my part of securing your retirement The Waco eats up a couple rolls without any problems come painting time. Hopefully this is the last time I will have to pint this plane.

    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  2. #15827

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Mike,
    As well as wetting the sheeting to go around the leading edge, you can also set your monocote iron on high and use that to steam the sheeting to ease the bending. Works well with thin plywood as well.
    You can also "dry glue and iron" the sheeting. Put a thin coat of white carpenters glue on both surfaces, let dry 5-10 mins., place wood in position, wet and iron with a hot (300') monocote iron. The heat softens the glue and then thermo-sets it. No taping, no waiting for glue to set. Just hold the part for 15-20 seconds...all done. If you have to remove the sheeting (within a reasonable time), simply re-heat and gently pull away, re-position, re-heat and good to go. I've just finished sheeting a large glider fuse with 1/64 ply panels using that method...works a treat!!

    Cheers,
    Dave.
    W/B #180

  3. #15828

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    RE: WACO YMF

    What is the correct mixture for softening the sheet before bending, 50/50 water ammonia?

    Chuck
    WACO Brother #233

  4. #15829
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Chuck,
    I have used plain water and Windex and 50/50 ammonia water mix. All 3 will work but the water ammonia mix dry's the fastest followed by Windex then water.

    Another tip for you that I discovered while building my 25% Waco was bending ply sheeting. If it is a failrly small piece (1/64-1/32) you can put it on a dinner plate and cover it with water and set it in the microwave on high for a minute and a half and it will make the plywood very flexible. You can then form it however you want and secure it until dry and it will hold the shape once dry.

    I do plan on trying the method Mogman mentions about the dry glue method.

    I used to always struggle with getting the L/E wing sheeting down and secure. One thing I have been doing on the last several builds is gluing the sheeting along the top spar and let it dry. Raise the sheeting and apply glue to the tops of the ribs then use a smooth 2" dia. metal pipe and start at the top spar and roll the sheeting down towards the L/E keeping firm pressure as I go. Once I reach the L/E apply some thin CA at the joint. It helps to have an extra set of hand while doing this especially on a large panel. It works well for me.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  5. #15830

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    RE: WACO YMF

    What a great day to fly WACO'S . Very light winds right down the runway for two hours, unfortunately, wind picked up and shifted to 90 deg to runway. All in all a great way to start a new year. Wishing all the brothers had just as good a day and 364 more of the same.
    froghair1 waco brotherhood #127 if it aint broke, dont fix it

  6. #15831
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Must be nice,

    33deg and windy here today with 6" of white crap on the ground.
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I managed to get the waco out of the rafters and dust it off....does that count as a New Years flight?

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I finished fitting the tail feathers on the Barth third scale Waco, they need sanding and covering before that can be permanently attached. The tail feathers are made as a separate assemble so they can be removed for transporting. Each elevator half is driven by its on servo. It's certainly a big plane, that's a 35% Extra next to it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    WACO Brother #233

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Chuck,

    Looks great. Keep up the good work. Sure looks lighter than one I'm building.

    Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Finishing issue

    This question goes out to those who have used the MinWax Polycrylic over your fabric. I just bought a quart yesterday and I'm appying it over three coats of 50-50 thinned Nitrate dope. I went over the surface very lightly with a 400 grit sandpaper and thid cleaned it off with a damp cloth to remove all dust. I am getting a lot of very fine specs in my finish. I went to my camel hair brush after I tried the sponge brush, Same results but to a lessor degree.. Are these specks dust or tiny bubbles. Thery were not that easy to sand out. I did not notice any of this with the dope. Using this on the wings and tail surfaces don't pose the sanding over the ribs issue as I have pinked tape over all of those areas, but the fuselage doesn't have the tape over the stringers, so I could very easily get the fuzzys there.

    While I have only done the elevators and rudder as of now, I'm tempted to go back to the dope, as I still have almost an entire quart of Nitrate. It's just hard to use it in the house, as my wife doesn't like the smell, and it's too cold to open the garage door....Brrrrrr............

    So, what is the issue here?

    TIA

    Joe




    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.

  11. #15836
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    RE: WACO YMF

    They are tiny air bubbles. You didn't by chance shake the can did you? Don't do that, just stir it. They will easily sand out.

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  12. #15837
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe,
    As Bill said stir not shake. I always gently stir the PloyC and go slowly with the brush to minimize the bubbles. If you are brushing across the fabric and you hear a zipper sound you are going too fast. When you give it a light sanding it will sand off the top of the bubble and the next coat will fill the space. The bubbles will basically be the thickness of the coat you just applied. These bubbles will appear less and less with each coat as the surface gets smoother. After 4-5 coats you should have a very smooth surface.

    Did you try thinning the PolyC with water? Try a test sample thinned with approx 15% water and see if thet brushes down easier. I have done several planes this way and I pan on doing my 1/3 Waco again with this method.

    Good Luck and let us know how it works out.
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  13. #15838
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill and Anthony,

    Bill, no I didn't shack the can, but stirred slowly. I thought they might be small air bubbles, but a fefw were more difficult to sand out. They could have been dust particals. After two coats on the elevators, I'm beginning to see a nice build-up in the finish. I'm going to put at least one coat on the wings tonight, maybe two. I have heard of putting some windshield washer fluid in latex to help it flow out. Have you tried that on the PolyC?

    As for the fuselage,I'm going to go with KlasKoat primer on the solid surfaces to try for the metal finish. Then I'll finish up with the PolyC on the fabric... I still have to attach the stab. I thought it best to wait until I had averything else done on the efuselage to avoid banging it around. I should be able to do that within a day or two.

    I'm giving some serious thought to KlassKoat to my color coats. Considering that the model is all white fabric and priomer, it shouldn't take much paint to get a good finish.

    Thanks for the quick answers. I'll be busy tonight for some time. That brushing to avoid the bubbles takes time.

    Joe
    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.

  14. #15839
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

    Joe,

    No Clue. I have Adobe Reader X (10.1.4) and do not have any problems with the PDFs of the Pica Plans.
    You may hve to try other PDFs and see if they open correctly. If they do you need a new copy of the plans PDFs. If not you need a new copy of Adobe.
    Hi John,

    I still have hade no luck on the .pdf plans. Every other .pdf file I have tried to open gave me no problem.

    On another compuiter problem, I just recently went to Google Chrome as my brouser. Now, my YouTube videos all stutter when opened. I also can't get a DVD to play. It may be telling me it's time to get a new computer. I just can't stand the thought of getting all new programs and having to learn a new operating system (now on windows XP0.

    Thanks for your thoughts,

    Joe


    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.

  15. #15840

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    RE: WACO YMF

    WacoNut,

    I have an old Ikon Monocoupe D145 covered with Solartex and never coated. Would it be a candidate for a number of coats of PolyC?If so, how many coats? It's a good old plane and I should do something to protect the fabric. It's winter here and I have time to do stuff. This is the wrong place for question, but ..

    Thanks,

    Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132

  16. #15841
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe,
    Double check the date on your can, I have seen some of this stuff that has been on the shelves for a long time and you may see it starting to form some solids in the solution. If so the best option may be to strain the can before doing more coats.

    I also do not brush out of the can but poar it into another container(butter bowl) and thin in there and keep the lid on after each use. You will see a plastic film start to form in the bowl where it has started drying. When this happens clean the bowl thoroughly before the next use.

    Once you get the hang of how to work with PolyC it is a very good option over dope.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  17. #15842
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Dear sirs, I have been reading your thread for several months now. It would be an honor if I could join the brotherhood. I started a 1/5 Waco, plans/templates from AMA. Just finishing up tail feathers, will start on lower wing next. I think I'll modify the tips as done earlier on this thread.
    I want to make the stab adjustable; does anybody have an idea about the connection of the two stab sections? Have been looking at 5/32" brass tube with 1/8" music wire down the center, but haven't figured the best connection inside stab. Probably really simple, I am just an amateur compared to the fine craftsmen on this thread.
    I have a DLE 30 to use in it so should have plenty of power also plan on using NC40112 for documentation, nice color scheme, I like it. Any comments, concerns or advice would be welcomed. Thanks, johnH

  18. #15843

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    RE: WACO YMF

    N40112 is a fine ship to use. It is owned by my father and I fly it regularly. If you look back through I have posted pictures of me and Dad with our planes. AS for your stab idea, I am not the best to comment on that. Good luck with the project. Anxious to see the results.

  19. #15844
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Glad to hear from the owner, maybe in the future I could ask you a few questions about the plane. I have Bob Banka documentation foto
    pac, but only 24 pic and no cockpit shots. I still have lots of questions about small things.
    JohnH

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Here are some shots
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  21. #15846
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Very nice, must be fun to fly the full size one! JohnH

  22. #15847
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: WacoNut

    Joe,
    Double check the date on your can, I have seen some of this stuff that has been on the shelves for a long time and you may see it starting to form some solids in the solution. If so the best option may be to strain the can before doing more coats.

    I also do not brush out of the can but poar it into another container(butter bowl) and thin in there and keep the lid on after each use. You will see a plastic film start to form in the bowl where it has started drying. When this happens clean the bowl thoroughly before the next use.

    Once you get the hang of how to work with PolyC it is a very good option over dope.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    Hi Anthony,

    Thanks for the advice. I'll check on the date, but I got it at a Lowe's, so I doubt if it's old.

    I think I have diswcovered the secret to applying this stuff. I did thin it our a little more than my previous attempts mentioned above. I'm using a one inch camel haire brush with very flexable bristles. I'm applying this by very lightly dragging the brush bu the end of the handle with the handle at about a 30 degree angle to the surface. This allows the bristles to lay against the surface I'm painting and it allows the PolyC to flow off of the brush almost no bubbles. My first coat on the bottom of my wing looks great! I'm becoming quite impressed with the PolyC.

    As for Mike's question on his Monocoupe, Do it! You will like the PolyC. If you're model is glow powered, you may need a fuel proofer over the PolyC. I'm thinking it's good to go on gas.


    Joe





    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.

  23. #15848
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    RE: WACO YMF

    NEW BROTHER ALERT!!!

    And the first new Brother of 2013 is: jhambright AKA John H.

    Welcome, John. You are Brother #232.

    As to your question concerning connecting the horizontal stab, you can find photos of the way that I did it in the text.

    I used brass tubing at the front and rear of the stab, and filled the tube with a run of dowel. The stab halves then slide onto the tubes and
    are pinned in place with 2-56 screws. This makes the halves removable and provides good strength.

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  24. #15849
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Thanks Bill, a dowel is much lighter, I was just concerned about stress under flight conditions that's why I was thinking about music wire. Thank you for allowing me in the brotherhood. This Waco is going to take some time to build, I was thinking about getting the GP Waco to get some stick time in, most of want I've read about it has been positive, also gives me some time with a gas engine. Thanks again guys.

  25. #15850
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    RE: WACO YMF

    John,

    Just a minor correction if you please. I don't allow anyone to become a Waco Brother. They do that themselves by first loving these old airplanes, and second by wanting to swap information about them and third by professing the desire to become a brother. This is just as much your thread as anyone elses'. Enjoy it for as long as you like, and then move on as many have. Be sure to drop back in and say hello from time to time.

    Bill, Waco Brother #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.


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