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Thread: WACO YMF


  1. #15851

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Anthony and Joe,

    Thanks, I'm going to coat the Monocoupe with PolyC. It is glow right now, but I think I'll put a G-26 on it. Moving away from glow.

  2. #15852
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi all, this is one of the things I like about golden era aircraft, the nice curves. I wasn't sure of the thickness, guess I will sand until it looks right after framing. Here's my supervisors. This is the first time I've posted photos, not sure if they will go with this message
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  3. #15853
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Well guess they went with the message.

    John, Waco Brother #232

  4. #15854

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    RE: WACO YMF

    For Barth 1/3 YMF LE sheeting I picked up ideas from Aminiet, Chuck L and Anthony. Method took three phases: 1. glue and clamp sheeting to spar and let dry, 2. soak with amonia-water mix, wrap with 2 inch masking tape and let dry. 3. Rough cut sheeting to wingtip radius, soak and tape. Worked slick. Better than my clamps, tie wraps, weights, etc. I've done this many times before, but always with smaller models and thinner sheeting that bent more easily.

    These forums are really helpful. Thanks.

    Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132

  5. #15855
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Thanks Mike, that helps a lot, I've always had trouble with sheeting over compound curves.





    -
    John, AMA 601984, Waco Brotherhood 232

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: mogman

    Mike,
    As well as wetting the sheeting to go around the leading edge, you can also set your monocote iron on high and use that to steam the sheeting to ease the bending. Works well with thin plywood as well.
    You can also ''dry glue and iron'' the sheeting. Put a thin coat of white carpenters glue on both surfaces, let dry 5-10 mins., place wood in position, wet and iron with a hot (300') monocote iron. The heat softens the glue and then thermo-sets it. No taping, no waiting for glue to set. Just hold the part for 15-20 seconds...all done. If you have to remove the sheeting (within a reasonable time), simply re-heat and gently pull away, re-position, re-heat and good to go. I've just finished sheeting a large glider fuse with 1/64 ply panels using that method...works a treat!!

    Cheers,
    Dave.
    W/B #180
    Dave,

    Does using the heat method decrease the adhesive strength as compared to the regular procedure of using the glue?

    Chuck
    WACO Brother #233

  7. #15857
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    RE: WACO YMF

    HI Chuck.
    I tried to remove a test piece of 1/64 ply that I had ironed on, after an hour or so, and it tore the wood. As far as I'm concerned, the glue joint is as good either way.

    Cheers.
    Dave.
    W/B #180

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I've covered the stab and fin with Solartex but have a question. When covering something like a wing, do you firmly attach the covering to the ribs by rubbing it down with your fingers as you would around the perimeter?
    Chuck
    WACO Brother #233

  9. #15859
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    RE: WACO YMF

    I personally say no! Let what ever naturally attaches while shrinking be it. This keeps the covering even through out. And believe me it will attach plenty.
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184

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    RE: WACO YMF

    CHUCK 1,When I use Solor or World Tex I just iron it down. I have found that it's better to shrink it with the iron and not the hot air gun whitch can be overdone.Thats what works for me. Bill

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Chuck L,

    Here are a few photos of old Monocoupe covered in Solartex. I just went around the perimeter for all the surfaces. The covering adhered well. Also used heat gun to shrink fabric instead of the iron.
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: hopkimf

    For Barth 1/3 YMF LE sheeting I picked up ideas from Aminiet, Chuck L and Anthony. Method took three phases: 1. glue and clamp sheeting to spar and let dry, 2. soak with amonia-water mix, wrap with 2 inch masking tape and let dry. 3. Rough cut sheeting to wingtip radius, soak and tape. Worked slick. Better than my clamps, tie wraps, weights, etc. I've done this many times before, but always with smaller models and thinner sheeting that bent more easily.

    These forums are really helpful. Thanks.

    Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132

    Forgot to mention I wrapped the LE sheeting for wingtips with the 2 inch tape and had it covered like a mummy. It took forever to set using Titebond. Not much open area for moisture to evaporate. Pulled the tape too early on two and had to redo.

  13. #15863
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    RE: WACO YMF

    My Waco is getting close to being ready to cover. Went much faster than I thought it would.
    Later!!
    Anthony
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    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  14. #15864

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Nice work!

  15. #15865
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Thanks Mike,
    Much easier the 2nd time around
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  16. #15866
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi Anthony

    Looks great. Please be so kind as to post some close up pics of the coaming so I can see how you did it. I have to do mine, and if you don't mind, I need some ideas.

    Best regards and compliments of the season to all.

    ERROL #204

  17. #15867
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Errol,
    I will get you some pics tomorrow, you can also check out my build thread on the Waco in the R/C Scale Aircraft forum.

    I put a piece of black rubber hose(automotive gas line) around the cockpit opening and then glued down vinyl over he top of that to simulate the coaming. I then drilled pilot holes around the perimeter and added the sticthing thru those holes. Worked pretty good.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  18. #15868
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: WacoNut

    Errol,
    I will get you some pics tomorrow, you can also check out my build thread on the Waco in the R/C Scale Aircraft forum.

    I put a piece of black rubber hose(automotive gas line) around the cockpit opening and then glued down vinyl over he top of that to simulate the coaming. I then drilled pilot holes around the perimeter and added the sticthing thru those holes. Worked pretty good.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    Obviously this is not 1/5 Scale! I was wondering how to do my coaming. This is a good idea but will be much more difficult at the smaller size.

    I think I would have waited until I have finished painting it prior to doing the coaming. That's what I'm doing. Hope I don't screw it up!


    It's looking good!

    Joe




    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.
    P-40 Brotherhood #8.

  19. #15869
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe mine is 1/3 scale. I did mine after painting and the hood on the plane is fiberglass.
    I have seen other guys on here do very similar with the 1/5 scale as well. If you strip the backing off the vinyl it becomes very pliable and easy to work with. I am sure you can do the same with the 1/5 scale.

    I crashed my Waco back in the spring and I am building a new fuselage. All the wood in the fuse is new and I am using the fiberglass parts from the old fuse except the cowling which was damaged beyond repair. I am hoping to leave the cockpit coaming intact and mask it off when I repaint the plane. Will have to wait and see how that works out. Any other plane and I would probably have scrapped it out, just loved the Waco too much.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  20. #15870
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: WacoNut

    Joe mine is 1/3 scale. I did mine after painting and the hood on the plane is fiberglass.
    I have seen other guys on here do very similar with the 1/5 scale as well. If you strip the backing off the vinyl it becomes very pliable and easy to work with. I am sure you can do the same with the 1/5 scale.

    I crashed my Waco back in the spring and I am building a new fuselage. All the wood in the fuse is new and I am using the fiberglass parts from the old fuse except the cowling which was damaged beyond repair. I am hoping to leave the cockpit coaming intact and mask it off when I repaint the plane. Will have to wait and see how that works out. Any other plane and I would probably have scrapped it out, just loved the Waco too much.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    I understand your feelings on the Waco. I have been working on mine pretty much every day since I got the kit in early May. My wife is pretty much sick of it.........."I'll be glad when you are finished with that plane! I never see you anymore!" It is beginning to get a little old.

    I have three to four coats of Nitrate all over and two coats of PolyC on the wings over three coats of nitrate.. I still haven't decided on what to use for the final finish. I'm very familiar with KlasKote, but have heard about how well the auto Base coat, Clear coat works. I haven't tried that yet. Will it go over the PolyC or dope OK? Any experience with that?

    Latex is a consideration, but I'm concerned about the masking tape lifting it whild doing the trim.


    decisions, decisions!

    Joe

    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.
    P-40 Brotherhood #8.

  21. #15871
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill,
    Here’s the information on the fly in next month. I’m planning on attending Saturday hope you can make it as well as any one else close by.


    http://delandrcclub.com/
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    Dan Hudson WACO Brotherhood #45
    GIT-ER-DUN \"Build a WACO\"

  22. #15872
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hello,
    My project has moved forward a bit.
    Shape of the fuselage and cockpit now has the correct shape.

    Albert
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    Albert

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  23. #15873

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe, The MAN on Latex is Roy Vallencourt. I would have the same concern, except you seem to have a good base.
    If you ask him I'd be interested in his answer.

    Bill
    WB 126

  24. #15874
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Joe,
    Latex can be a little of a pain with masking. It is all in the timing of removing the mask. Either very soon after painting or several days to give the layers time to cure out. I prefer removing the mask as soon as it sets.

    I have had good compatablity with PolyC with Dupli-Color high fill primer. I am pretty sure I am going to try base coat/clear coat on the Waco this time around. Latex will not give you a good glossy finsih. I want a gloss finish this time around.
    Later!!
    Anthony
    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  25. #15875
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Anthony,

    Is the Dupli-Color a lacquer based primer? If not, what is it?

    Joe
    "When you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."

    AMA # 8870, Member since 1978.
    Waco Brotherhood # 219.
    P-40 Brotherhood #8.


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