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WACO YMF

Old 01-22-2013, 04:09 PM
  #15976
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I've been working on my ARF (see above) and continue to work on the dummy engine. I plan to mount it to the battery box and firewall rather than to the cowl. I also picked up some parts to make the simulated fuel caps on the center section.

Hopefully that counts!

Jaybird
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:17 PM
  #15977
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Yes it does
Just been awful quiet here the past few days, figured I would wake someone up
Anthony
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:01 PM
  #15978
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ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Yes it does
Just been awful quiet here the past few days, figured I would wake someone up
Anthony
Looks like your going to have her back in the air real soon.
Bob
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:30 PM
  #15979
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Bob,
The Waco will take a good long while to cover, detail and paint. I don't think it will see a re-maiden until May or early June. I am sure the plane will be ready before the pilot I will get plenty of stick time on my other planes before the Waco will see the air.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:21 AM
  #15980
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Default RE: WACO YMF

not a waco but I have been working on a plans built 32% dr-1 almost done
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:19 PM
  #15981
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I'm awake! Just been busy on the Waco. I finally attached the stab and rudder. Over the weekend, Imade up my first set of wires for the tail bracing. I thought it might be of interest to anyone looking for a nice set of hardware. The fork ends (as they are called by Mick Reeves) and flat wire, as well as the pinked tape came from Mick Reeves. This is the 1/16" wide wire. Ialso have some 3/32" I'll be using on the flying and landing wires when Iget to the wing. While I"m not 100% satisfied with my final results on how the silver soldering looks, I started with the tail for practice. It's a simple matter to go back and heat it up again and re-do it. The trick is to make it appear as though the wire joint is coming from the center of the threads and are a part of them... Ihave a little ways to go with that.

As for the rudder / stab joint, I'm doing some filling with the light spackle to try to make it appear as a screwed on fairing. We'll see how that goes in a few days.

Istuck my thumg in one of the shots for size reference.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:06 PM
  #15982
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Dash7ATP

What covering are you using?

Chuck
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:17 PM
  #15983
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ORIGINAL: chuck l

Dash7ATP

What covering are you using?

Chuck
HI Chuck,

I went with KoverAll. At this point it has four coats of 50/50 (reduced) NItrate dope and two coats of MinWax PolyCrylic. I'm about ready for some color as soon as Ifinish up the fillits, etc.

Joe
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:02 PM
  #15984
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Joe,

What did you thin the nitrate with?

Chuck
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:04 PM
  #15985
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Joe,

What did you thin the nitrate with?

Chuck



Sig dope thinner.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:58 AM
  #15986
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" While I"m not 100% satisfied with my final results on how the silver soldering looks,"

If you were to find some heat shrink tubing in a color close to your base, or trim color, and cover the joint, it may please you better, and no one else would be able to see.

Les
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:15 AM
  #15987
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: LesUyeda

" While I"m not 100% satisfied with my final results on how the silver soldering looks,"

If you were to find some heat shrink tubing in a color close to your base, or trim color, and cover the joint, it may please you better, and no one else would be able to see.

Les

HI Les,

Thanks for the suggestion. It's a little too late for that now without de-soldering one end to slip the heat shrink over the wire. I'll give that a try on my next set of wires to see how Ilike it. Ican always go back.....

The trick to making these look like they should is to grind an angle on the end of the threads. When the flat wire is soldered to it, then ground down properly, it should look pretty close to the ends of the full scale wires or even the ones sold at our scale that are made in Europe and high $$$.

Thinkingahead a little, I'm just wondering how you guys are doing the javilin on the wing wires and still have the ability to take the wings off or adjust the tension. You have to rotate the wires to make any adjustments or to loosen them up for disassembly. The closer Iget to finished, the more I'm concerned that I won't be able to get this in my Caravan fully assembled. Has anyone else tried that?

Joe




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Old 01-25-2013, 09:07 AM
  #15988
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP




Thinking ahead a little, I'm just wondering how you guys are doing the javilin on the wing wires and still have the ability to take the wings off or adjust the tension. You have to rotate the wires to make any adjustments or to loosen them up for disassembly. The closer I get to finished, the more I'm concerned that I won't be able to get this in my Caravan fully assembled. Has anyone else tried that?

Joe


Joe, on my 40% I have used very small rubber bands, "O"rings etc,(picture) but the vibration kept breaking some of them. I now use very small zip ties...no more issues. Not very scale, I know, but no one notices when it's flying past. My Waco is not a "scale" model, it looks and sounds good in the air. That works for me.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180
Sorry, I don't know why the post appeared like this...
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:49 AM
  #15989
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mogman

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP




Thinkingahead a little, I'm just wondering how you guys are doing the javilin on the wing wires and still have the ability to take the wings off or adjust the tension. You have to rotate the wires to make any adjustments or to loosen them up for disassembly. The closer Iget to finished, the more I'm concerned that I won't be able to get this in my Caravan fully assembled. Has anyone else tried that?

Joe


Joe, on my 40% I have used very small rubber bands, "O"rings etc,(picture) but the vibration kept breaking some of them. I now use very small zip ties...no more issues. Not very scale, I know, but no one notices when it's flying past. My Waco is not a "scale" model, it looks and sounds good in the air. That works for me.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180
Sorry, I don't know why the post appeared like this...
Dave,

Thanks for your remarks. I can see how the rubber bands could be a problem.. The zip ties could work on my model as well. The bottom line is that they have to be easily removed and replaced. This gives me something to work with.

Joe

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Old 01-25-2013, 09:59 AM
  #15990
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I used 2-56 pull-pull set with threaded couplings and clevises from DU-BRO on my smaller GP WACO ARF. See posts 15844 and 15928. The wires are the nylon coated cable included in the kits which are anchored to the fueslage and upper wing center section and clipped to small brackets on the upper and lower wings. The javelin is secured to the wires and when the four lines are unclipped from the wing it can just hang or be stuffed into the cabanes for transport. All wires can then be adjusted at the threaded couplings if needed.

The 4-40 pull-pull cable set might be closer the right size for the larger model.

Jaybird

p.s. Sorry, looking again (now that the other pictures are there) i can see my system won't help with yours since you have to spin the whole flying wire and not just the clevis on the end.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:04 PM
  #15991
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Chuck,
I do not use dope for filling the weave just atatching the fabric. When I thin the dope I use a good quality laquer thinner. If I were going to be using the dope for filling the weave and finish color with dope I would use the dope thinner to match the dope I am using.

I have not seen any ill effects from using laquer thinner to thin the dope for attaching the fabric. I had a tough time removing the fabric from my 33% Waco after the crash to access the damage.


As far as the Javelins on the flying wires go I have seen Waco's with the wires thru the javelin and secured by wrapped string coated with a sealer(dope?) and a couple that were actually secured with zip ties. I had mine secured with zip ties and on display at the Waco museum and a spectator made mention that my plane looked great but he thought the javelins just didn't look right with the zip ties holding them on. About a half hour later he came back and appologized for his comment as there were 2 Waco's parked that had zip ties holding the javelins on

I installed new flying wires the day before the crash and had the wires going thru the javelins. Will most likely do the same this time around.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:12 PM
  #15992
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Guys I need help. I'm trying to bend the leading edge sheeting on the tip of the third scale Waco wing. The piece of balsa is about 8" long by 3mm thick and wraps ok in the flight direction. However it is really tough to bend in root to tip direction. Soaking the balsa with 50/50 ammonia/water helps, but not much. How can the balsa be softened more so it will stretch and conform to the shape. One option is to go to a thinner sheet. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

Chuck
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:38 PM
  #15993
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Chuck,

Ohe option would be to cut a thin sliver of a wedge to allow it to make the bend. It should not take much. If you are carefuyl, and use a wood (white) glue in the joint, it will sand without liaving a ridge and you'll never know you cut it. Compound curves can be a problem sometimes.

Are you a member of the Waco Brotherhood? Idon't see you mentioining it here. (Not that it makes a difference). If not all you need do is mention it and Bill will take care of that!

Joe
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:24 PM
  #15994
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I finished up the center section on my GP ARF this evening. I made up some fuel filler caps with dowels and fuel line plugs and the tank vents with assorted brass and steel parts. I think they came out pretty well and give the illusion of detail. Next is the dummy engine. But tomorrow is a trip to Owls Head to drop off the 1/6 scale Top Flite SE5a that they have accepted as a donation. There is also a seminar on bird and aircraft flight characteristics that should be fun. Then I'll visit my daughter-in-law and 3 month old grandson who live nearby.

Jaybird
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:39 PM
  #15995
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Guys,

These pictures are of the Javilin on NC 14081 a 1987 YMF built by Waco Classic Aviation. This is just one example on a full scale Waco.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:52 PM
  #15996
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Chuck,

I followed my plan mentioned earlier for the tips. That was to do them last after first gluing to spar, letting it dry, and then soaking and gluing the flight direction. Of the eight tips, I cracked two. Just would not go down with the 2 inch tape, so I used a few clamps. For the last two tips, I used a sealing iron on high to pre-form the soaked wood before gluing down. It worked pretty well. On one tip it still didn't want to lay down, so I made a span-wise cut 2 or 3 inches long through the wood. Didn't remove any material. I taped it with the 2 inch tape. Also had to clamp in a couple spots where the tape didn't pull it down well enough. That worked out OK. Had a bit too much heat on wood with sealing iron. Some discoloration.

One thing I noticed was the kit supplied wood didn't bend as well as the BUSA sheets I bought to replace damaged sheets included with kit. Also I don't know the age of kit. It's an early version. I bought it on RCU and it sat some years before I started.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood #132
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:20 AM
  #15997
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Chuck,
I do not use dope for filling the weave just atatching the fabric. When I thin the dope I use a good quality laquer thinner. If I were going to be using the dope for filling the weave and finish color with dope I would use the dope thinner to match the dope I am using.

I have not seen any ill effects from using laquer thinner to thin the dope for attaching the fabric. I had a tough time removing the fabric from my 33% Waco after the crash to access the damage.


As far as the Javelins on the flying wires go I have seen Waco's with the wires thru the javelin and secured by wrapped string coated with a sealer(dope?) and a couple that were actually secured with zip ties. I had mine secured with zip ties and on display at the Waco museum and a spectator made mention that my plane looked great but he thought the javelins just didn't look right with the zip ties holding them on. About a half hour later he came back and appologized for his comment as there were 2 Waco's parked that had zip ties holding the javelins on

I installed new flying wires the day before the crash and had the wires going thru the javelins. Will most likely do the same this time around.
Later!!
Anthony
Anthony and all, there will be no ill effects from using lacquer thinner. Nitrate Dope is Nitrocellulose Lacquer and there is no difference in the SIG or Randolph Dope thinner and another good Lacquer thinner.

Bill, Waco Brother #1
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:08 AM
  #15998
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Thanks Bill that is good to know.

Chuck, the wing tip L/E pieces can be a real pain. I do remember one or two of them splitting on me as well. I did wind up using quite a bit of filler to get mine to smooth out to my satisfaction. The 1/8" balsa just does not want to make that compound curve very well. It is pretty much just a compromise at the tips, get the sheeting down as best you can and sand and fill as necessary.

Another thing is you want to add some braces to the dowel that supports the wing tip. You may have to give the wing tips a nice tap to seat your panels on assembly at the field and you do not want the tips to be weak. Dany had suggested thius to me and he was correct, you do not have much leverage for assembly other than pushing on the wing tips.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:02 AM
  #15999
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Gents,

I do cut my Javelin so that the wire goes thru as shown on the picture of the NC 14081 and for adjusting the three halves I use clear silicon tubing which will be pushed fwd. and aft of every part to keep in place. If the dia of the tube is very close to the dia of the javelin the tube will stick to it but can be removed quite fast.

Peter
#170
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:22 AM
  #16000
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Gents,

I do cut my Javelin so that the wire goes thru as shown on the picture of the NC 14081 and for adjusting the three halves I use clear silicon tubing which will be pushed fwd. and aft of every part to keep in place. If the dia of the tube is very close to the dia of the javelin the tube will stick to it but can be removed quite fast.

Peter
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This sounds like an idea that is simple and effective! Thanks.

Joe
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