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WACO YMF

Old 03-14-2007, 09:10 AM
  #1676
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Default RE: WACO YMF

John L.,

I would love to post a pic of what's in the magazine, but alas, I have yet to receive my copy. You should consider a subscription to R.C. Report magazine, It is probably the most honest publication that you can get.

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Old 03-14-2007, 02:16 PM
  #1677
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I don't want to stir up the pot on cowl bumps again, but I was looking at the site I posted a link to a while back (Nat. Waco Club) and there's a bunch of pictures of what are listed as YMF-5's that have cowls with NO bumps at all. The cowl looks as though it might be a tiny bit bigger in diameter than the "bumped" cowl, and it has no curve front to rear. Tell the truth, it looks like the cowl on a Super Stearman.

There are also some great picture of some YMF's with floats, perfect for detailing the float struts.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:22 PM
  #1678
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Ken, some of the WACO's were fitted with smooth cowls, and yes, they are larger in diameter. The reason for the blisters is to enable the cowl to be smaller in diameter. On a cowl without the blister's the cowling is considerably larger in diameter, and less expensive to boot. I'll trade you a smooth cowl for one with the blisters attached correctly.

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Old 03-15-2007, 09:04 AM
  #1679
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I'll try to post some pic's tonight, but last night, I did the Main gear setup with the compression shock absorber system. It seems to work just fine, and will eliminate the shear load on the two Gear formers and will distribute the shock load more evenly throughout the airframe.

I leveled the fuselage (using the crutch as the datum line) and set the cabane tops at zero (front to back, side to side, and diagonally) at zero bubble as well. This should eliminate having to worry about the top wing incidence, since all is at zero. I had to remove a couple of thousandths from one of the cabane wires at the top to achieve this reading.

The rest of the fuse is progressing nicely.

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Old 03-15-2007, 08:59 PM
  #1680
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Default RE: WACO YMF

It's a conspiracy, that's what it is....A Conspiracy. I still don't have my copy of the new R.C. Report, and everyone else is telling me about it...I just may have to drive to Huntsville, make that Madison.

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Old 03-15-2007, 09:18 PM
  #1681
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Don't feel bad, Master Chief. I don't have mine yet either. And when I was in Hodges Hobbies on my way home from Florida on the 7th, they had theirs on the stand. Should have bought one then, but figured mine'd be waiting when I got home on the 8th. My dumb.
I called RC Reports on Monday 3/12 to see if my subscription had expired. Nope. But the nice young lady told me that "their mailer" says to allow to the 15th for delivery. Guess the "mailer" missed it this month. At least for us two.
(Looks to be a good one, too, w/ the Staggerwing on the cover....) Maybe tomorrow.
Moby


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ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

It's a conspiracy, that's what it is....A Conspiracy. I still don't have my copy of the new R.C. Report, and everyone else is telling me about it...I just may have to drive to Huntsville, make that Madison.

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Old 03-16-2007, 07:57 AM
  #1682
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Anyone gunning for the kit on Ebay? Item 180094996392
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:41 PM
  #1683
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Bill,

I haven't gotten my copy either. I have been working on the top wing fuel tank detail, this on is roof flashing, 2 short pieces of aluminum tubing (1/4" diameter) and 2 large (5/8" diameter) long shaft snap buttons from leather working. Mine is a little smaller at about 12" x 4-3/4" to fit a 1/6th scale WACO. I still need to add the vent lines shown in the first photo of a QCF.
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:51 PM
  #1684
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Don't Y'all guys just hate when someone does that kind of beautiful work????? John, That looks great!!!.

As promised, here are some pics of the progress (or lack thereof) on the new bird. The first is the working tail, the second is of the shock mount (no spring attached yet) the third is the lower gear tie, and the fourth is a long shot of the fuse side, showing the tailfeathers. More as it comes together.

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Old 03-16-2007, 09:39 PM
  #1685
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Bill,
While you're in Madison say hello to Gordon for me please. I guess I can't complain, mines not here either and a lot farther away. Must be that Waco cabin delivering the mail again.
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:50 AM
  #1686
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Harry,

I probably won't drive to Madison Alabama for one issue (it will probably get here this week).

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Old 03-17-2007, 09:07 AM
  #1687
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I just looked at the tailwheel that was just posted over in the Scratch build forum, for the Jim Pepino WACO. I may have to rip this one out, and try to replicate that one.

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Old 03-17-2007, 10:45 AM
  #1688
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Default RE: WACO YMF

That is a nice tailwheel, fully functional, too. I hope my home built one stands the test of landing. I at least used piano wire inside the brass tubing to add strength, but retrofitting to the ARF precluded any true spring action.

I've been working on control linkages, tail brace wires, little odds and ends that seem to take forever, and when you step back to survey the results, looks like you haven't done a damn thing; kind of frustrating, but completely necessary.

I set up the tailwheel so I get greater deflection on it that I do on the rudder, so I can turn the plane inside a 40 acre circle while taxiing. Haven't got any pics of the work yet, but hope to finish control linkage (elevator is yet to be done) today, maybe actually cover control surfaces this evening.

Landing gear spring struts are done, and I think are really going to help spread the loads when landing, the spring tension feels about right.

Question, Master Chief: what are the thrust offsets, especially right thrust, on the Pica kit?
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:29 PM
  #1689
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Ken,

As with the full scale airplane, there is no down, nor is there any right thrust built in the model. You are expected to fly the model, rather than have offset in the engine. If you think about it, there is no real reason to have the offset built into the engine. That is what there is a rudder and elevator for. The adjustable incidence H-stab will make this easier.

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Old 03-17-2007, 06:17 PM
  #1690
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ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

Ken,

As with the full scale airplane, there is no down, nor is there any right thrust built in the model. You are expected to fly the model,

Bill, AMa 4720
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That's what I thought. There has to be at least 3 degrees of right thrust built in to the firewall on the ARF. When I mounted my engine, I used spacers of different lengths and took all the offset out. Mine has no right or down in it now.

All the control rods are run, and I have preliminary throws and expo programmed in. I tossed the stock hardware and used Robart control horns and clevises. The rods are Sullivan carbon flex rods, they don't shrink and expand with heat and humidity. I've used them on another plane and like them a lot. The tail braces are made from 2-56 size wire, and the ends are electrical spade terminals, with the wire soldered into them. Then I rounded the spade with a cutoff wheel and used the smallest screws I had, #1 with tiny nylock nuts. i had already drilled a 3/16 hole in the H stab and V stab where the braces attach, and made inserts from carbon tubing and glued them in place. When the screws holding the braces are screwed tight, they won't crush into the balsa.

I meant to say something earlier, skylarkmk1. Those tanks look great. I sure hadn't thought about putting that much detail into mine, I don't know if I have what it takes anyway.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:35 PM
  #1691
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: khodges

All the control rods are run, and I have preliminary throws and expo programmed in. I tossed the stock hardware and used Robart control horns and clevises. The rods are Sullivan carbon flex rods, they don't shrink and expand with heat and humidity. I've used them on another plane and like them a lot. The tail braces are made from 2-56 size wire, and the ends are electrical spade terminals, with the wire soldered into them. Then I rounded the spade with a cutoff wheel and used the smallest screws I had, #1 with tiny nylock nuts. i had already drilled a 3/16 hole in the H stab and V stab where the braces attach, and made inserts from carbon tubing and glued them in place. When the screws holding the braces are screwed tight, they won't crush into the balsa.
In the picture Rp44381.jpg, I guess I am looking at the rudder servo in the middle. It looks to me as if you are using a pull pull system, are they push rods or snakes?

I supose that the extra movement of the tail wheel is because the push rod is on the outside/longer of the servo arms with a shorter lever operating the tailwheel?

I love the pics and am trying to make sure I understand what I'm looking at.

I really liked the "non crush fixing" idea for the bracing wires.




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Old 03-17-2007, 10:46 PM
  #1692
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Bill,

Thanks for the kudos. Your picture of the plastic part, a couple of measurements and a little effort, whalaa...

Ken,

Thanks, looking at your tail wheel, main gear shock parts and baggage compartment (and other stuff you posted), you easily have what it takes. The forming of the hex nut into the aluminum was the most difficult. I used an 9/16" hex socket, a flat 1/2" hex nut from a toggle switch, a rod that fit loose inside the nut, some light tapping, and pushing/bunishing with a pop-sicle stick to form them. Next time I will probabaly just glue a couple in place or try HVAC Tape over 1/64 ply. The Tank outlines and stiffining "X"s were done with a screen roller from the backside and the rivets were done with a "dull" pointed tire plug tool (didn't want to dull my sharp scribes). I did the rivets freehand while watching the tube, on a board on my knee, so they aren't exactly even. All up weight of the tank cover with fill caps and glue is less than 23 grams (<7/8 oz.). I have the 1/6th plans but no former templates yet, so I am piddiling around with what I can do. Cabane and "N" struts, cowl or tail wheel next I guess. That Peppino tail wheel by Big Bird looks good (hmm' some inspiration there maybe...).
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:22 AM
  #1693
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John L.--Yeah, the middle servo is the rudder/tailwheel. The rods are a combination of snake and 4-40 rod. The tubes curve from the tail section to where the servo is, and the "snake" is a Sullivan carbon impregnated flex rod, which follows the curved tube without binding, and the ends are the 4-40 rod. I did the pull-pull as much for scale appearance as anything, as the flex rod surely will work on push as well as pull. Since the tailwheel is forward of the rudder post, it requires a separate rod. I have as much throw in the rudder as travel will allow, and the tailwheel has probably 25% more than the rudder. When I get the rudder throws set to their flying adjustment, the tailwheel will still have enough travel that I will be able to turn it within about a 10 foot circle. It's aggravating , to me, when you can't turn your plane around at least in the width of the runway.

To explain the rest of that image; the servo at the top of the picture is the throttle, it's a standard 3001 Futaba where the rest are high torque 3010's. The servo at bottom is the elevator, and uses a single rod similar to the rudder and tailwheel. The yellow wires you see coming out from under the rudder servo go to the engine kill switch, which is located in the rear cockpit. The Rx will go on the side above the throttle servo and just behind the wing saddle (dual Rx, 2.4 GHz), and batteries on either side of the tanks, where there is a lot of room to move them forward or back for balance. I'll use a 700mAh NiCd for the smoke pump, and I have a 2700 mAh NiMH for the Rx.

I was going to start covering tonite, but got sidetracked (again) and wound up fitting the cowl. I'm surprised how little I actually had to cut to get it to fit around the G-26 and the Pitts muffler. I may have to hack up the dummy engine though, to get the proper clearance between it and the cowl front. The bottom two cylinders will wind up being only half a cylinder each, in order to clear the engine and allow enough air to the cylinder. I'm also going to have to figure out a way to get to the choke lever, There are two more holes, one for the spark plug wire, and one for the plug itself. I might be able to place the hole for the wire so I can flip the choke lever from it.

Well, tomorrow's another day, maybe I'll get some Koverall stretched.
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Old 03-18-2007, 09:16 AM
  #1694
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Bill, Ken, John,
After seeinig the work you all do I should be embarrased to post these BUT, hopefully my skills will improve as I continue in the hobby.
I just can not believe the beautiful, fine detail you folks are able to produce.
These are my humble attempts at the luggage hatch door, I will use a combination switch/charge jack tor the RX and the small hole is for the glow plug igniter. I made the handlle from a 2-56 clevis (AKA KHodges) then built it up with silver solder which I filed to shape. Think I will mount the fuel dot on the front of the fuse so any cutting of the cowl will be minimal.
Here they are..
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Old 03-18-2007, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: khodges

John L.--Yeah, the middle servo is the rudder/tailwheel. The rods are a combination of snake and 4-40 rod. - - - - -

- - - - - - Well, tomorrow's another day, maybe I'll get some Koverall stretched.
Thanks for the pics and the description, started a whole new line of thought.

Good luck with the Kovering.




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Old 03-18-2007, 11:39 AM
  #1696
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ORIGINAL: Jim Henley

I just can not believe the beautiful, fine detail you folks are able to produce.
Whatchewtalkin' 'bout, YOU FOLKS? That hatch is damn fine work, Jim. You must have x-ray vision, looking at how your framework behind the panel for the switch is made. I could have been looking at mine. That is beautiful work, and a great idea to include your remote ignitor in there as well.

I placed my fuel dots on top of the fuse, just behind the cowl. As there is a box framework under the rounded stringers, I cut the section out and mounted a solid balsa block, then drilled through it and the underlying box, which allows the fuel lines to sit in a small space just forward of the tanks. I just epoxied the fitting for the dots, instead of using the backing nut. I'm not worried about the gaps around the block, as the whole area will be sheeted with 1/64 ply, or 0.08 styrene, whichever seems to work best. The strip behind the dots is a hard point for the cabane strut wire braces.

I also included a picture of the cowl with the dummy just sitting in it and the static prop. Starting to look more like an airplane every day. I also have changed my mind on my paint scheme. There is a picture of a 1934 YMF-5 on the Waco site I posted the link to a while back. It has the forward part of the fuse a dark color, which tapers toward the bottom of the fuse as it goes aft, and the wings and tail have scalloped trim. Very distinctive, I'll still do it in burgundy and cream.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:35 PM
  #1697
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Jim Henley

Bill, Ken, John,
After seeinig the work you all do I should be embarrased to post these BUT, hopefully my skills will improve as I continue in the hobby.
I just can not believe the beautiful, fine detail you folks are able to produce.
These are my humble attempts at the luggage hatch door, I will use a combination switch/charge jack tor the RX and the small hole is for the glow plug igniter. I made the handlle from a 2-56 clevis (AKA KHodges) then built it up with silver solder which I filed to shape. Think I will mount the fuel dot on the front of the fuse so any cutting of the cowl will be minimal.
Here they are..
What choo talkin' bout Willis?

Your work is as good as is anyone's. There is no need for you to be embarassed about the work that you have done. It's first class. The hatch is very good work. The idea of using the baggage compartment for the switches and charging port is exactly what I use mine for, and I add a hatch in the fuselage (behind the cowl) for my fueling port. I like Ken's idea of using the oil fill ports for fueling too. I may have to liberate his idea for this one.

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Old 03-18-2007, 05:23 PM
  #1698
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Thanks guys, as was said earlier, you spend the whole weekend working and when you step back it doesn't look like 'ya done a damn thing. Ken, thanks for sharing you photos, I really like your dummy engine!
Some time back I emailed Frank Tiano Enterprises, to see if he had a seven cylinder, while they don't Frank did indicate that the 9 cylinder could be cut apart and modified. I may go that route as the cost is right and the engiine will definately add to the look of the airplane.
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:33 PM
  #1699
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Ken and anyone else with experience, I'd like to hear what you learned about taking Monokote off(other than it's better to not have it on in the first place). In my repairs I find acetone lets me pull the film off the color layer. And if that color layer is on top more monokote, then Lacquer thinner will wipe that color off without hurting the next layer. yes, my models have repairs over repairs. And then can you dope over pieces of monokote and the color left after removing the film? I also look forward to covering experience comming up. A friend wants me to use Polyspan, is that suitable for 1/6 and 1/5 models? thanks to all for all the info, pictures, etc. Jim #9
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
There are two more holes, one for the spark plug wire, and one for the plug itself
Hey Ken,

I added one more very small hole to be able to adjust the engine without removing the cowl. With the one small hole I can adjust both mixture screws.
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