WACO YMF
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I lost a plane a few years ago, the first in many seasons. Plane would not respond and did a dive into the ground at full throttle. I had many flights prior with no problem, but this was the hottest day all year and I had left both the plane and Tx out in the sun for a bit.
Only thing I can think of as it has never happened again. However, since then I keep the Tx in the case and the planes get a towel over the flight control area till ready. This includes the YMF-5 with the towel covering from beneath the top whing, (front hole cover) to almost the tail. Had it an an event this weekend that was nearly as bad and only trouble I encountered was on landing from the left wheel dragging due to a broken wheelpant.
ps. With any craft with a cockpit and/or canopy the temps in that area can get surprisingly high, (one reason composite airframes are usually painted white). When this is often directly above the Rx, battery and servo mounting area you can imagine the environment they can encounter.
Only thing I can think of as it has never happened again. However, since then I keep the Tx in the case and the planes get a towel over the flight control area till ready. This includes the YMF-5 with the towel covering from beneath the top whing, (front hole cover) to almost the tail. Had it an an event this weekend that was nearly as bad and only trouble I encountered was on landing from the left wheel dragging due to a broken wheelpant.
ps. With any craft with a cockpit and/or canopy the temps in that area can get surprisingly high, (one reason composite airframes are usually painted white). When this is often directly above the Rx, battery and servo mounting area you can imagine the environment they can encounter.
Last edited by Cougar429; 08-16-2016 at 04:22 PM.
I lost a plane a few years ago, the first in many seasons. Plane would not respond and did a dive into the ground at full throttle. I had many flights prior with no problem, but this was the hottest day all year and I had left both the plane and Tx out in the sun for a bit.
Only thing I can think of as it has never happened again. However, since then I keep the Tx in the case and the planes get a towel over the flight control area till ready. This includes the YMF-5 with the towel covering from beneath the top whing, (front hole cover) to almost the tail. Had it an an event this weekend that was nearly as bad and only trouble I encountered was on landing from the left wheel dragging due to a broken wheelpant.
ps. With any craft with a cockpit and/or canopy the temps in that area can reach some high temps. When this is often directly above the Rx, battery and servo mounting area you can imagine the environment they can encounter.
Only thing I can think of as it has never happened again. However, since then I keep the Tx in the case and the planes get a towel over the flight control area till ready. This includes the YMF-5 with the towel covering from beneath the top whing, (front hole cover) to almost the tail. Had it an an event this weekend that was nearly as bad and only trouble I encountered was on landing from the left wheel dragging due to a broken wheelpant.
ps. With any craft with a cockpit and/or canopy the temps in that area can reach some high temps. When this is often directly above the Rx, battery and servo mounting area you can imagine the environment they can encounter.
Aileron coorigation jig
I have been asked to provide some help with a jig I made up when I was building my WACO. This jig was used to ensure that the small strips used for the corrugations on the ailerons were parallel and properly spaced. I may have done this or something similar several years ago, so please bear with me again.
First it will be important to know that there are 34 such strips on each surface, times four. That's a lot! If you use the plastic piece in the kit as a guide I think you will be way off, One of the posts listed under ailerons on page one of this forum goes into a lot of depth on the exact size and shape of these coorigations. so check that out if going for a really scale project.
The tool shown ws made from three pieces of formica, but I'm suer 1/16": plywood should work just fine. Draw our your shape approximately 3/4" X 3 1/2". You will need three of these and one about 1" x 3 1/2" .The first three should be exactly the same size, and the working side should be smooth and straight. clamp these together and sand them smooth. The spacing for your notches should be filed into them using a small file. The shape of the file should match the shape of the pieces you are gluing to the surface. Since I used 1/16 x 1/16 angle stock, I used a small square shaped file to cut a "v" shaped notch. A half round shape might be more scale, so if you can find something to duplicate that, a small round rattail file could be used to make a small half round notch in your tool..
The way this jig works is simple, but takes time. Decide where on your aileron these strips have to go. You should locate one for the starting point and glue it on. I used gap filling CA (green bottle) very sparingly. Now, here is the trick. You will need to find a tacky adhesive to put on your jig to hold the strips in place while you locate the tool over your first and previous strips. It should release the strip once it touches the surface and the CA holds it. I used a sticky wax used in tying fishing flies, but I think the tacky glue sticks kids use for paper projects should work as well. Just a small dab with a toothpick should be enough. You don't want to make a mess on your aileron.
Back to the jig. When you have finished cutting the notches in the three pieces, Drill holes in each end for tubes or music wire to hold it all together. DO THIS BEFORE you unclamp them to ensure they all line up. Use one of the previous pieces as a guide to drill holes in the oversized piece with the wider size on the surface side. This will allow it to lay over the leading edge of the aileron and keep everything square. You can see in photo two that each end of the jig is tapered or rounded off slightly. This is to allow you to place one ind of the jig on a previous strip and then lower the jig to the surface and placing the new strip , or strips into place.
This little jig can be made in one evening, but it's critical to be sure your spacing is exactly even and properly spaced. I didn't mention my adhesive. I used JB Weld, only because it's thick and doesn't run, and it's very strong. For the tubes, I'd recommend something around 3/16 " diameter.
First it will be important to know that there are 34 such strips on each surface, times four. That's a lot! If you use the plastic piece in the kit as a guide I think you will be way off, One of the posts listed under ailerons on page one of this forum goes into a lot of depth on the exact size and shape of these coorigations. so check that out if going for a really scale project.
The tool shown ws made from three pieces of formica, but I'm suer 1/16": plywood should work just fine. Draw our your shape approximately 3/4" X 3 1/2". You will need three of these and one about 1" x 3 1/2" .The first three should be exactly the same size, and the working side should be smooth and straight. clamp these together and sand them smooth. The spacing for your notches should be filed into them using a small file. The shape of the file should match the shape of the pieces you are gluing to the surface. Since I used 1/16 x 1/16 angle stock, I used a small square shaped file to cut a "v" shaped notch. A half round shape might be more scale, so if you can find something to duplicate that, a small round rattail file could be used to make a small half round notch in your tool..
The way this jig works is simple, but takes time. Decide where on your aileron these strips have to go. You should locate one for the starting point and glue it on. I used gap filling CA (green bottle) very sparingly. Now, here is the trick. You will need to find a tacky adhesive to put on your jig to hold the strips in place while you locate the tool over your first and previous strips. It should release the strip once it touches the surface and the CA holds it. I used a sticky wax used in tying fishing flies, but I think the tacky glue sticks kids use for paper projects should work as well. Just a small dab with a toothpick should be enough. You don't want to make a mess on your aileron.
Back to the jig. When you have finished cutting the notches in the three pieces, Drill holes in each end for tubes or music wire to hold it all together. DO THIS BEFORE you unclamp them to ensure they all line up. Use one of the previous pieces as a guide to drill holes in the oversized piece with the wider size on the surface side. This will allow it to lay over the leading edge of the aileron and keep everything square. You can see in photo two that each end of the jig is tapered or rounded off slightly. This is to allow you to place one ind of the jig on a previous strip and then lower the jig to the surface and placing the new strip , or strips into place.
This little jig can be made in one evening, but it's critical to be sure your spacing is exactly even and properly spaced. I didn't mention my adhesive. I used JB Weld, only because it's thick and doesn't run, and it's very strong. For the tubes, I'd recommend something around 3/16 " diameter.
Last edited by Dash7ATP; 08-16-2016 at 05:08 PM.
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I can now consider myself "well read". I have been through all 18,828 posts, gathered bits of information and really just enjoying this 10 year evolution of a fantastic thread. I feel like I know a lot of you rather well now.
Stickbuilder, you're included in prayers daily. I've been going through some medical difficulties for the past year as well, fighting off Liver Cancer. So far, so good following surgery earlier this year that removed the tumors along with a good portion of my liver. Doctors are now saying that I have a very good chance of being declared "cured" in the future after a sufficient amount of time has passed. Now, i'm still recovering and going through blood tests and doctor visits more than I'd care to admit.
I'm getting a pretty good collection of parts, materials, and supplies together and anticipate starting to frame up the Waco sometime around Halloween, after I finish up a couple of other projects including an old AMCO Sportmaster, and a Goldberg Super Chipmunk. A guy has to have something new to fly every once in a while ya know.
I do have one question regarding the modifications to the wing tips and spar location. Once I get the new ribs cut and the wingtip laminated, I'm assuming that the rib spacing is per the Pica plan, along with the trailing edge sheeting. Am I right on this one?
I am also thinking very hard about using the Pica Cowl, configured for a YMF as a plug for a fiberglass mold in order to put a decent cowl on this, but I've never tried doing any fiberglass work like this in the past. Can someone point me to a tutorial or other source of information on building molds and laying up parts?
Thanks much, and let's see some more construction pics!
Stickbuilder, you're included in prayers daily. I've been going through some medical difficulties for the past year as well, fighting off Liver Cancer. So far, so good following surgery earlier this year that removed the tumors along with a good portion of my liver. Doctors are now saying that I have a very good chance of being declared "cured" in the future after a sufficient amount of time has passed. Now, i'm still recovering and going through blood tests and doctor visits more than I'd care to admit.
I'm getting a pretty good collection of parts, materials, and supplies together and anticipate starting to frame up the Waco sometime around Halloween, after I finish up a couple of other projects including an old AMCO Sportmaster, and a Goldberg Super Chipmunk. A guy has to have something new to fly every once in a while ya know.
I do have one question regarding the modifications to the wing tips and spar location. Once I get the new ribs cut and the wingtip laminated, I'm assuming that the rib spacing is per the Pica plan, along with the trailing edge sheeting. Am I right on this one?
I am also thinking very hard about using the Pica Cowl, configured for a YMF as a plug for a fiberglass mold in order to put a decent cowl on this, but I've never tried doing any fiberglass work like this in the past. Can someone point me to a tutorial or other source of information on building molds and laying up parts?
Thanks much, and let's see some more construction pics!
Last edited by dwmcmike; 08-17-2016 at 12:51 PM. Reason: formatting changes
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I believe that tape is used anywhere there is a seam or a reinforcement needed, so I would say yes, there would be tape on the trailing edges, too.
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I suspect it would not be different than the earlier WACO cabins. Pinked tape around the entire perimeter of the rudder and elevators, not just the trailing edge. Ditto for the fin and horiz stabs.
My Feedback: (48)
I can now consider myself "well read". I have been through all 18,828 posts, gathered bits of information and really just enjoying this 10 year evolution of a fantastic thread. I feel like I know a lot of you rather well now.
Stickbuilder, you're included in prayers daily. I've been going through some medical difficulties for the past year as well, fighting off Liver Cancer. So far, so good following surgery earlier this year that removed the tumors along with a good portion of my liver. Doctors are now saying that I have a very good chance of being declared "cured" in the future after a sufficient amount of time has passed. Now, i'm still recovering and going through blood tests and doctor visits more than I'd care to admit.
I'm getting a pretty good collection of parts, materials, and supplies together and anticipate starting to frame up the Waco sometime around Halloween, after I finish up a couple of other projects including an old AMCO Sportmaster, and a Goldberg Super Chipmunk. A guy has to have something new to fly every once in a while ya know.
I do have one question regarding the modifications to the wing tips and spar location. Once I get the new ribs cut and the wingtip laminated, I'm assuming that the rib spacing is per the Pica plan, along with the trailing edge sheeting. Am I right on this one?
I am also thinking very hard about using the Pica Cowl, configured for a YMF as a plug for a fiberglass mold in order to put a decent cowl on this, but I've never tried doing any fiberglass work like this in the past. Can someone point me to a tutorial or other source of information on building molds and laying up parts?
Thanks much, and let's see some more construction pics!
Stickbuilder, you're included in prayers daily. I've been going through some medical difficulties for the past year as well, fighting off Liver Cancer. So far, so good following surgery earlier this year that removed the tumors along with a good portion of my liver. Doctors are now saying that I have a very good chance of being declared "cured" in the future after a sufficient amount of time has passed. Now, i'm still recovering and going through blood tests and doctor visits more than I'd care to admit.
I'm getting a pretty good collection of parts, materials, and supplies together and anticipate starting to frame up the Waco sometime around Halloween, after I finish up a couple of other projects including an old AMCO Sportmaster, and a Goldberg Super Chipmunk. A guy has to have something new to fly every once in a while ya know.
I do have one question regarding the modifications to the wing tips and spar location. Once I get the new ribs cut and the wingtip laminated, I'm assuming that the rib spacing is per the Pica plan, along with the trailing edge sheeting. Am I right on this one?
I am also thinking very hard about using the Pica Cowl, configured for a YMF as a plug for a fiberglass mold in order to put a decent cowl on this, but I've never tried doing any fiberglass work like this in the past. Can someone point me to a tutorial or other source of information on building molds and laying up parts?
Thanks much, and let's see some more construction pics!
After I cut the new ribs I used the plans for the spacing. I'm sure you have seen these pictures some were in the thread but I will post them again. This is how I did mine. I do have the temples for the ribs if you'd like I can email them to you.
My Feedback: (3)
I am also thinking very hard about using the Pica Cowl, configured for a YMF as a plug for a fiberglass mold in order to put a decent cowl on this, but I've never tried doing any fiberglass work like this in the past. Can someone point me to a tutorial or other source of information on building molds and laying up parts?
Google "nacelle mold and merlyn graves" and "fiber glassing cowls and merlyn graves" He has posted a number of videos showing step by step how to do this and the materials he uses. Works very well.
Google "nacelle mold and merlyn graves" and "fiber glassing cowls and merlyn graves" He has posted a number of videos showing step by step how to do this and the materials he uses. Works very well.
My Feedback: (48)
I have a set of plans. The mounting system is Byrons aluminum spars in the wing that extend about two inches into a spar box in the center section or fuse. I can try to take a photo of that section if necessary. I uised the same system on the wings of a Yellow Aaircraft F-4E many years ago. Plenty strong .
Joe
Joe
Joe
Joe, I wrote I want to make 70-90" WACO. So, I´m going to build WACO YMF 70-90" wingspan. I´m not decided which plan I will choose. Here are the samples I got from Henry Budzynski.
I don´t understand your last question: "Where are you on this build?"
Do you want to know where I am from?
I don´t understand your last question: "Where are you on this build?"
Do you want to know where I am from?
Joe, I wrote I want to make 70-90" WACO. So, I´m going to build WACO YMF 70-90" wingspan. I´m not decided which plan I will choose. Here are the samples I got from Henry Budzynski.
I don´t understand your last question: "Where are you on this build?"
Do you want to know where I am from
I don´t understand your last question: "Where are you on this build?"
Do you want to know where I am from
I can see that your are in the CZECH REPUBLIC. Not a problem. When I asked where you were on this project, it sounded like you were already building a WACO and was trying to decide how to mount the wings. I was asking how far along in the build you were. All I have on the Pepino build you already have in the drawing you posted. The mounting system is in the bottom right hand corner of sheet #2., showing the Byron wing mounting system.
Didn't you make me a decal of the P-40 to put on the rear window of my van a year or two ago? Your name sounds familiar.
Good luck. From what I have heard, the Pepino WACO plans can have issues. You should ask for more info here in this forum.
Joe
Now I understand Joe. No I´m not building yet. I can´t choose which plan is better. I also thinking to take a Pica plan and make wings without dihedral as same as on my Eagle.
I thought, that in the plan is some better detail than in my samples. This is a reason why I´m looking for some detail pictures.
Maybe I made the decal for you. It was during last half of year.
I thought, that in the plan is some better detail than in my samples. This is a reason why I´m looking for some detail pictures.
Maybe I made the decal for you. It was during last half of year.
Now I understand Joe. No I´m not building yet. I can´t choose which plan is better. I also thinking to take a Pica plan and make wings without dihedral as same as on my Eagle.
I thought, that in the plan is some better detail than in my samples. This is a reason why I´m looking for some detail pictures.
Maybe I made the decal for you. It was during last half of year.
I thought, that in the plan is some better detail than in my samples. This is a reason why I´m looking for some detail pictures.
Maybe I made the decal for you. It was during last half of year.
As I said earlier, the Pepino WACO has had a lot of comments here on the WACO Forum. Go to the top of any page here and look for the SEARCH link. Just enter "PEPINO" and leave the date box as "any date". I just did this and got a lot of posts relating to these plans and builds. It might be worth your time to give this a try. You might get your answers there.
Joe
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hmmm. kinda quiet in there. I'm assuming everyone has been out enjoying some decent flying weather. We've been pretty lucky here in the midwest lately. We've been enjoying some great flying this summer. I've said a few prayers for a couple of areas of the country here lately, Including our brothers in Florida, dealing with this Hurricane / Tropical Storm situation. I went through several myself during the 10 years I spent down in Lantana. I don't miss the big weather, but I loved the winters! You all keep yourselves safe, ok!
For the WACO, I'm still collecting the bits and pieces that will be needed to finish. I've decided on HiTec HS-645mg's for servos for the control surfaces, with a standard servo in place for the throttle. I'm also going to run it on 6V Nimh batts 3700 mah capacity. Yeah, i know they're big heavy batteries, but I'll probably need them for nose weight anyways. Going to run Aileron servos out in the lower wings, slaved to the upper wing ailerons through the rods. I'm considering using a separate tail wheel servo slaved off the rudder channel, so the extra capacity will be a good idea with 6 or so servos running.
For the WACO, I'm still collecting the bits and pieces that will be needed to finish. I've decided on HiTec HS-645mg's for servos for the control surfaces, with a standard servo in place for the throttle. I'm also going to run it on 6V Nimh batts 3700 mah capacity. Yeah, i know they're big heavy batteries, but I'll probably need them for nose weight anyways. Going to run Aileron servos out in the lower wings, slaved to the upper wing ailerons through the rods. I'm considering using a separate tail wheel servo slaved off the rudder channel, so the extra capacity will be a good idea with 6 or so servos running.
My Feedback: (48)
hmmm. kinda quiet in there. I'm assuming everyone has been out enjoying some decent flying weather. We've been pretty lucky here in the midwest lately. We've been enjoying some great flying this summer. I've said a few prayers for a couple of areas of the country here lately, Including our brothers in Florida, dealing with this Hurricane / Tropical Storm situation. I went through several myself during the 10 years I spent down in Lantana. I don't miss the big weather, but I loved the winters! You all keep yourselves safe, ok!
For the WACO, I'm still collecting the bits and pieces that will be needed to finish. I've decided on HiTec HS-645mg's for servos for the control surfaces, with a standard servo in place for the throttle. I'm also going to run it on 6V Nimh batts 3700 mah capacity. Yeah, i know they're big heavy batteries, but I'll probably need them for nose weight anyways. Going to run Aileron servos out in the lower wings, slaved to the upper wing ailerons through the rods. I'm considering using a separate tail wheel servo slaved off the rudder channel, so the extra capacity will be a good idea with 6 or so servos running.
For the WACO, I'm still collecting the bits and pieces that will be needed to finish. I've decided on HiTec HS-645mg's for servos for the control surfaces, with a standard servo in place for the throttle. I'm also going to run it on 6V Nimh batts 3700 mah capacity. Yeah, i know they're big heavy batteries, but I'll probably need them for nose weight anyways. Going to run Aileron servos out in the lower wings, slaved to the upper wing ailerons through the rods. I'm considering using a separate tail wheel servo slaved off the rudder channel, so the extra capacity will be a good idea with 6 or so servos running.
I believe you'll like the 645 servos that's all I use. As for the weight of the battery you will more then likely need it up front I had to add quite a bit to mine. Hopefully you will be gluing sticks together soon.
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Full Size WACO YMF-5 ride at Owls Head Transportation Museum
I had a wonderful 1/2 hour ride in a 2011 WACO YMF-5 at Owls Head Transportation Museum near Rockland, Maine a couple of weekends ago during their antique motorcycle meet. I rode in the front cockpit of course and it was quite luxurious...once I got in which was quite a challenge. I've gotten in and out of a full size Stearman several times and that's pretty straight forward using the hand holds in the trailing edge of the top wing cutout and stepping down into it. The WACO is very different as the big top wing covers almost the entire front cockpit so the hand holds are way back. The door is high and quite small and just a triangle opening but there are struts to hold on to (but NOT the windshield frame!). The big Jacobs was fairly quiet and quite powerful. The front cockpit is very comfortable and the airflow is smooth (for an open cockpit). Anyway, it was a real treat and very smooth even on a windy day.
Jaybird
Jaybird
Last edited by Jaybird; 09-21-2016 at 01:37 PM.
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I have several short videos from my flight on YouTube at jaywiley6.
https://youtu.be/O8QKZXlzrPE
Jaybird
https://youtu.be/O8QKZXlzrPE
Jaybird