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WACO YMF

Old 04-13-2007, 09:00 PM
  #1951
obo
 
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Ok I will give it some time & call again. I not sure my friend will come thru on this kit he was going to sale me. He said he would sell it to me but , he can't find it. Turns out he has two 1/5 scale pica kits so he said he would sale 1 if he finds it. This is why I may be going with the AMA plans & temps.




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Old 04-13-2007, 10:25 PM
  #1952
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Bill, Ken and all

Check out The Cub Den http://www.thecubden.org/ Cub Man has a step by step for making an engine for a J-3 Cub (Continental flat 4) that you can modify to make your dummy engine if you haven't found another way. Also some other scale detail stuff "how to's".
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:13 AM
  #1953
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Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

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Old 04-14-2007, 06:47 PM
  #1954
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Now I've done it...........I told myself I wouldn't do rivet detail on the UMF, but danged if I didn't start anyway. I experimented with drops of Ca, drops of Titebond, drops of epoxy; couldn't get any of it even, one drop would be bigger than another. So, I found some tiny brass brads, 1/4 inch long, with a rounded head about 0.10 inch diameter and now I'm about 1/4 way through placing about 275 of them. I drill the holes, apply a tiny drop of Ca on the brad tip and push it home until the head is seated. Lookin' good so far, I'll post a pic when finished. It actually goes faster than you'd think, or maybe I'm in some kind of temporal displacement zone.

There's two coats of dope on everything, second coat is sanded lightly and the third (and final) coat goes on tonite. Then it's time to prime, and a good bit of that is already done: landing gear, struts, cowl, and wheel pants are ready for paint.
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:02 PM
  #1955
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Quiet night, what's everybody up to? More productive stuff than net surfing, I suppose. I quit for tonite, I got all the rivets done, but not the last coat of dope; I'll do it in the morning. Here's some pics of the rivets. The tail section has a smaller rivet that I found in one of my shop bins, I had forgotten I had them. I wish I had enough to do all the rivets, I think they look better:
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:08 PM
  #1956
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Yes, I see what you mean, at full size 0.10" = 0.5" dia rivet head, ship building stuff. Still, I reckon ole Stickbuilder will think it's about right...
Evan, WB#12.
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:31 PM
  #1957
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It does make the fuse look sort of like a boiler, doesn't it? With primer and paint coats they won't look quite so outsized, I think.
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:50 PM
  #1958
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Ken,

Your efforts look good, but I hate to be the one that might burst your bubble . I have not seen a YMF/UMF yet but on the UBFs, (NC 2091K, NC 155Y and NC 12002) all the sheet metal has been attached to the fuselage (pict 1) with screws (philips head) and washers, Dutz type (or similar) fastener or a loop and wire. The ailerons have been the only place I have seen rivets (round head on top and flattened from the bucking hammer on the bottom) (pictures 2 & 3). I will take a look (and take pictures, close ups and measurements) at other WACOs tommorrow and ask the mechanic and/or owners about it (if any are there) when I get the pictures of the Jacobs for Bill. It may be a long day at the airport, lots to do.
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:11 AM
  #1959
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Ken, it looks terrific!

I'm watching this build > so when i get my kit... (i'm working on it LOL) it's NOT easy to outbid some old geezers like George! Right George? (just an inside joke)

Anyway i was just thinking of using small metal pinheads for rivets> drill a hole, cut the pin stem a bit & CA
would they be approx the right scale?

V.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:10 AM
  #1960
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: khodges

Quiet night, what's everybody up to? More productive stuff than net surfing, I suppose. I quit for tonite, I got all the rivets done, but not the last coat of dope; I'll do it in the morning. Here's some pics of the rivets. The tail section has a smaller rivet that I found in one of my shop bins, I had forgotten I had them. I wish I had enough to do all the rivets, I think they look better:
Ken,

When you get the final coat of primer on, why not take an X-Acto knife and cut a light screwdriver slot in each rivet head. That way they would look more like the screw heads on the Dzus fastners and the sheet metal screws that the real WACO uses. I think your idea's are great. That is not an ARF any longer. That is a model that you can truly be proud of. Just make it shiny. (It drives NightStalker nuts).
Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:18 AM
  #1961
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder


Okay, Here is the roster to date.

WACO BROTHERHOOD MEMBERSHIP:

#1 stickbuilder
#2 Hughes500E
#3 Jim Henley
#4 mmattockx
#5 CTflyboy
#6 michaelj2k
#7 Ronj10
#8 gwulle
#9 jim schroer
#10 Skinny Bob
#11 Bart5495
#12 Pimmnz
#13 HarryJ
No. 14 Old Git
#15 ChrisMH
#16 Nerevar
#17 Ricatic
#18 Clay H.
#19 Tripp2Loo
#20 KHodges
#21 Bill Hogue (WACO One)
#22 Mangolo (Waldo)
#23 av8ter
#24 yel914
#25 damifino
#26 skylarkmk1
#27 Jacque
#28 Edwin
#29 AROPLANE
#30 CubNut (Anthony)
#31 BQuartucy (Bob Q)
#32 AERORON
#33 funkymusic
#34 RCOutlaw
#35 obo (Bob)
#36 Jackk36 (Jack)
#37 fatherrooster (Jim)
#38 Ilikebipes
#39 Kestrel0222

#47 Todd (NightStalker)


#66 Mobyal

We have another new Brother. Meet Kestrel0222. He is normally found lurking in the RC Scalebuilder site, but he is also welcome over here. Kestrel, enjoy your new family.

I had a brain fart, and missed a couple of additions here. Kestrel, You are acturlly #39. #37 had already been assigned to fatherrooster. Sorry about the mix-up.

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Old 04-15-2007, 06:28 AM
  #1962
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Thanks for the welcome, Bill.

I am also a member of this forum, not all that active, but a real fan of all WACO aircraft. I plan on building another YMF very soon!
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:47 AM
  #1963
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: vasek


Anyway i was just thinking of using small metal pinheads for rivets> drill a hole, cut the pin stem a bit & CA
would they be approx the right scale?

V.
Vasek, thanks. You know, I used that same technique on another plane (pin heads) and completely forgot about it. Well, I'm probably the pinhead now. I'm marginally satisfied with the result I got with the brads, in 1/4 scale it would be about right. I even thought about pulling them all out and ordering more of the rivets I used for the tail, but after trying to pull several of the brads out, I gave up on the idea and will stick with what I have. It's amazing how tenacious a tiny drop of Ca can be

I like the Master Chief's idea of scoring a slot and may do it. Although the rivets are outsized for the scale, it may be like what I said about rib stitching earlier, too much effort for too little gain. I'll reevaluate after I've primed the fuselage.

John, I'm pretty sure the Y/UMF's are done the same way the UBF is, no reason to use two different methods, and screws are much easier when time for airframe repairs/inspections. Even with the hi-rez pics I have, when you enlarge them that much, all you get is a bunch of pixel squares.

It must have been residual dope fume effects, I didn't think of multiplying the brad head dimensions to determine what their full scale measurement would be. Oh, well, let's go out and sniff some more fumes, last coat of dope comin' up
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:56 AM
  #1964
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Last coat? That sounds pretty final. Kind of like, "I'm going to fly this one one last time", and usually the prophecy is correct.

Hope you don't find any pin holes (I ususlly do) and I want to see it with the first coat of primer. Don't try doing something dumb and dry fitting the wings with a fresh coat of primer. I had to rework the center section of the bottom wing after trying that. [:@]

Did you add any pads for attaching the flying wires at the fuse bottom?

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Old 04-15-2007, 03:06 PM
  #1965
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Just make it shiny. (It drives NightStalker nuts).
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

[/quote]

I was nuts long before the "Shiney Airplane" thing came up...Shiney is in the eye of the beholder... and a five year old at that! I've had non-shiney airplanes all my Doggie life, and until a certain Master Chief posted a picture of a Tink piloted Shiney red and gold WACO on Christmas eve, it would still be a non-issue. Little kids are great... can't tell you how many times since Christmas my Li'ln has asked me about the Shiney Tinkerbell plane... memory like a steel trap I tell ya.

Todd
Doggie 47




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Old 04-15-2007, 03:25 PM
  #1966
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ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

Did you add any pads for attaching the flying wires at the fuse bottom?
Jahwol, Herr Master Chief. I almost forgot, and was getting ready to prime the fuse, but the little black "x's" I had made in the respective locations reminded me. There are two on top of the fuse for the intercabane wires, and two on the lower fuse, just above the gear legs, for the forward flying wires. I used male electrical spade terminals and screwed them in place with a #2 button head screw. I previously put hardwood blocks under the balsa skin to make hard points for them and also did that to the wing locations.

The spades have a sleeve for the wire that is perfect for the elastic cord I will use for wires. I just thread the cord through the sleeve, tie a knot and pull it back into the sleeve to conceal the knot, and apply a drop of Ca. The other end, that attaches to the underside of the top wing, will have a fitting that allows me to disconnect the "wires" if I need to remove the wings. When I mount them, I'll make pics and further describe them.

I was at the workshop of one of my clubmates yesterday, and he showed me how well Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer fills the weave of Koverall when brushed on with a foam brush. I still believe in dope for this, but I will brush on the first coat of primer, and then do a light spray coat to even out any streaked spots and eliminate brush strokes that remain. I am using this primer anyway, I'll just change the manner I was going to use it.

The other thing I've done today is figure out how to mount the front windscreen so it would be solidly mounted, but still allow easy removal. I glued a couple of short lengths of aluminum tube to the inside of the windscreen frame, and used a couple of spade electrical terminals (anybody notice a pattern here?) to make brackets at the bottom of the screen. I drilled two holes in the fuse, forward of the front 'pit, and with the windscreen in place inserted a piece of piano wire down through each small tube, into the fuse (there is a former there that the wires also pass through, establishing the angle of the windscreen). These wires hold the screen against prop blast and airstream. The two brackets will have a #2 buttonhead screw that keeps the screen from sliding up the wires. All I have to do to remove the screen is take out the screws and pull out the wires. you hardly notice these when its mounted.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:46 PM
  #1967
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Brothers, I have changed my building plans to the following. I decided to use the parts interlocking method like Team Genesis is doing. I have most of the parts drawn in Coral Draw and will have them laser cut when completed.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:47 PM
  #1968
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Bad pics, will try again.
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:10 PM
  #1969
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Ken,

You about ready to retire to Sunny Florida????? We could get into a lot of trouble down here.

Nightstalker...Your 5 year old is right. She knows a shiny airplane when she see's one. I'll give her another look at it.

I've got lots more pictures if you would like to see some....

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:28 PM
  #1970
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

You about ready to retire to Sunny Florida????? We could get into a lot of trouble down here.
I've BEEN ready to retire, and I have enough trouble staying OUT of trouble up here. All I need is to get thrown in the brig with a sailor. Well, at least you could introduce me around.

I primed the fuse tonite, brushed a coat on like my friend showed me, but I think a couple of sprayed coats would give me the same result, plus not have any brush marks at all. I'll do the rest of the plane like I had planned. I had just a few pinholes, surprisingly; not as many as on my last Koverall project. The Rustoleum primer flows nicely, and evens itself better than some primers I've used. The foam brush is nice, you can "dab" with the tip better than with a brush.

That WACO is gorgeous, Master Chief. Post all the pics you want.
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Old 04-15-2007, 10:29 PM
  #1971
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Bill,

As promised I got to the airport today and in a private hanger a cabin WACO was being restored with the Jacobs L-4 in an engine hoist. I got about 30 pictures, front, back, side and close up. Here are a couple to tease. I post some more later.
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Old 04-15-2007, 10:43 PM
  #1972
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Ken,

Got some pictures and info for you also, close ups of fasteners. Picture one is the screws (sloted, not philips) at the front of the door, picture 2, with the Dsuz Fastener, is near the forward cabne strut, both on UBF-2 NC 2091K. Picture 3 shows the cowl fastener on the right front, Picture 4 is a close up, both are from UBF-2 N 155Y. All the sheet metal needs to be removed for inspection, so lots and lots of screws, both front and rear.

The ID Plate is not located on the out side of any WACO, according to the mechanic. They were located in various places on different WACOs. On the UBF, they were located on the front panel (instrument) on the left side.
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:03 PM
  #1973
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John, thanks for the pictures, one of these days, I'll build another one and get it right. The outsized ones look a little better with primer to fill in around them some, but they are still obvoiusly out of scale. What the hell, IT"S ONLY AN ARF.

While net surfing today, I found out a relatively unkown item; did you guys know that WACO also made a motorcycle once?
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:16 PM
  #1974
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Ken,

I saw a similar motorcycle with a radial (don't know what make) that was a little smaller in diameter and mounted sideways, I'll try to dig up the photo later.

Your smaller "rivets' in the tail are probably closer to scale size. In the photos, the screws are about 3/8", the Dsuz are about 3/4" and the grommets for the cowl retainer about 1/2". I don't think most will notice the scale difference and more likely will "oh" and "ah" at the detail.
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:07 AM
  #1975
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Can you imagine the ratational torque from that puppy????? Crack the throttle and the bike does a barrel roll from a stationary mode. It might be fun to look at, but it probably pukes more oil than my old Harley does. I wouldn't want to ride it.

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