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WACO YMF

Old 05-12-2007, 04:53 PM
  #2351
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zig,

You are now officially known to all as Brother #51. Welcome to the Brotherhood....6 WACO's....WOW!!!!! Guys we have a master in our midst. Please refer to the roster on page 92. I have decided to only post an updated roster to the current page every 10 pages or so, since doing so eats up a ton of page space. If I knew how to add the roster to page one at the top, I would do that, and never have to move it. Any idea's guys?????

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Old 05-12-2007, 04:55 PM
  #2352
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And some more. The flying wires are made from elastic cord, got it at the craft store. I cut them so they are half as long as they need to span. I used a metal ferrule that fishermen use on steel leader to hold a loop in one end of the cord. The other end is threaded through the fittings made from male electrical spade terminals and knotted. The looped end fits over a small hook made from brass and screwed in place. If I need to remove the wires to take off a wing, all I have to do is slip the loop off the hook. They are all on the underside of the top wing so as not to be too obvious. The vibration damping rod in the middle of the wires is a piece of bamboo skewer and is tied to the wires with a 4-0 silk suture (which is black).

Sorry the two shots are blurry. I'll reshoot them later.
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:00 PM
  #2353
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Ken,

I like the effect of the prop "Stick" to hold the hatch open.

No squeezing between the missle tubes in Sherwood Forest for me. I was a SSN guy, not SSBN. I was fast attack all the way. The Boomers exist as a missle launch platform with a torpedo suite for defense. A fast attack boat is a platform for the Torpedo suite, and uses the weapons carried therein in a more offensive manner. But, if you really want to know what your Cold War era tax dollars went for, pick up a book named, "Blind Man's Bluff". It will make you lose some sleep at night. It is the unmitigated honest story of the Fast Attack Submariner's life. It still scares the stink out of me.

The detailing is like the rest of the model....Superb.

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Old 05-12-2007, 05:24 PM
  #2354
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And finally, the cockpits. One of the major differences in the ARF and Pica kit is the box structure that the ARF uses for the majority of the fuse. Curved formers are added that the stringers are glued to to give the round form. This box limits the depth of the cockpit, the bottom of which is the top of the internal box. Since the fuse diameter decreases forward of the rear cockpit, the floor of the front cockpit is even shallower. The ARF doesn't even come with a front cockpit (neither does the Pica kit, nez pas?) but since the "F" in YMF or UMF means "tandem cockpit, 2-or 3-place, open, 1930-1937", I decided to add one. The door is just for looks, and the door handle for it, as well as the baggage compartment, is made from a steel clevis soldered to a piece of 2-56 control rod. the clevis is bent over the rod and half is cut off, the other half cut down to size with a dremel cutoff wheel. The coaming of both 'pits is leather, and the seatback and headrest of the rear cockpit is leather also, with foam padding (the pilot HAS to be comfortable)

I used a J-Tec 1/5 scale instrument sheet and made the panel from 1/32 ply; I placed the cut out instruments in the desired order on a piece of 1/64 ply, and traced the circles, then cut them out. Then I glued the instrument faces to the 1/32 ply, covered them with a piece of clear acetate included in the J-Tec set, and then glued the 1/64 ply over it. This makes the instruments look sunk into the panel. The toggle switch in the rear cockpit is the kill switch for the magneto ignitioned G-26. The front 'pit has fewer instruments, but the necessary ones to permit piloting from the front. The windscreen for the rear cockpit is made from 3/32 Lexan polycarbonate, with a frame made from 0.010 styrene strips. the front screen only has an inner frame, and instead of permanently being attached like the rear, it is removable, like the full-scale. There are two pieces of piano wire that fit in sleeves on the frame and extend into the fuse. These hold the screen in place against propblast and airstream, and two small button head screws keep it from coming loose.

Also in this group is a shot of the fuel tank fillers and vents. The vents are made from 1/8 in copper tubing bent to shape. I figured they would be easy to snag, so they are held in place with a drop of silicone sealerand will pull out without breaking anything else.
The two fillers you see on the fuse just aft of the cowl are the real fuel filler and smoke fluid filler. How do I remember which is which? The fuel filler is on the same side as the carburetor (right-hand side)

That's about it. I could have kept on detailing, but the dang thing would weigh 40 pounds by the time I got through. There were some small details like the bolts around the tank, that I couldn't make look like I wanted, so I said screw it.
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:45 PM
  #2355
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Ken,

Truly a work of genius and a work of art. WOW !!!!! I stand in awe.

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Old 05-12-2007, 07:26 PM
  #2356
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Sorry, new to this. this was in reply to the experinence Hughes500 was having on Jan 27,07 post 1032. Pg 42

The quote I was referring to:


So I'm looking at the template you showed me and on my manual, page 39 shows the blisters in the exact same locations as my glass cowl in the pictures above. I am unsure as to why Pica would do this but if your guys' plans and templates are different than mine, then we found another difference in the age of these kits (end quote)


Make sure your plans are accurate if they are a copy. Measure the span. The sixth is 60" the fifth is 72". I paid good money for a set of Pica plans done on a crappy copier and it shrank the plan. Bringing this to the attention of the seller did nothing. If the span is too big/small for the scale of your model then the whole sheet is off proportionally and your positioning tape measure to be cut from the sheet will be proportionally out of whack to the rest of the drawing. It's hard to get plan copies dead on. A quarter inch either way over five feet is acceptable (to me anyway). Most plans being copied do not have to be scaled, not to mention used as patterns, ie: building location or construction drawings.

Just an idea.

Art
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Old 05-12-2007, 08:12 PM
  #2357
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Mandolay,

The placement of the cowl blisters was not due to an error in plan copying. The UMF variant uses the paired blisters (Continental engine)

The YMF uses the evenly distributed blisters (Jacobs engine). Most of the kits that have been produced and the new ARF as well are erroneously called YMF models, when they are in fact, UMF versions. It's a minor detail, but it kills the accuracy of the model.

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Old 05-12-2007, 08:53 PM
  #2358
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khodges

Your pic are great you have to be prod of your Waco.


Stickbuilder


I have been quietly in the background trying to read all 90 some pages and trying to figure out what I wonted to do. All of the pic I have seen are quite fine. I think I may be a bit out of my league Never the less I plan to call AMA plans service Monday and order plans. I will put the air tractor on hold for a year or two LOL. I have changed my name back to mrdhud I hope your not aggravated with me thought it was funny at the time but the next day it wasn't so funny (joke on me)

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Old 05-12-2007, 09:06 PM
  #2359
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Ken, your work is awesome....as evidenced by the progress and level of detail you achieved over a few short months, it's obvious you worked your a*s off on that thing. Just goes to show how one can really make it happen if they really want to. Fine effort and a beautiful paint scheme, bravo!
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:13 PM
  #2360
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deleted, sorry. Double posted
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:34 PM
  #2361
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mango12

Khodges, that is the size that I got, so I'll probably use it.What kind of adhesive did you use? I had thought about using thinned down contact cement, I can't remember if it produces heat during the curing process. Guess I can test a small piece to see.
Scott
WB#49
Scott, I used 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive. It's a contact cement and usually works quite well. I think I got a bit carried away and layered it too heavy, worried that I wouldn't get enough glue on the pieces and they'd come flying off in the air. It may also be from the carrier in the cement. I put the pieces on almost as soon as I sprayed the adhesive, hoping to be able to reposition them if necessary before the glue bonded. There are some wrinkles in several of the surfaces, but I'll tell everyone that it's just rough handling from 65 years of hard flying. (scale damage, howz that for realism).

I think you'd be okay with this or any other contact cement (Weldwood)if you let it set a bit, but then you know about having to get them exactly right the first time.


Jay, thanks a bunch. I don't know about working my a*s off, it don't feel any smaller. I just hope the damn thing flies.
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:52 PM
  #2362
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Ken,
Are you going to send Cox a finished pic of what use to be their ARF



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Old 05-12-2007, 10:48 PM
  #2363
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: khodges


Jay, thanks a bunch. I don't know about working my a*s off, it don't feel any smaller. I just hope the damn thing flies.
???????
[sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]

You hope which thing flies????? The plane or your a*s ?????

[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]

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Old 05-12-2007, 11:53 PM
  #2364
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

You hope which thing flies????? The plane or your a*s ?????
It'd be nice if both of them could, but I'll settle for the plane just now.


ctflyboy---
Cox could sure use a lesson in converting an otherwise nice kit into an ARF, at least where scale is concerned. The outline was about all that was left. I still don't understand why they changed the wingtips so much.
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Old 05-13-2007, 06:32 AM
  #2365
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Ken,
That is absolutly beautiful, the detail is fantastic! The elastic cord you used looks great, and best of all you don't have to re-adjust them each time you break the airplane down. Again, great Job!
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:09 AM
  #2366
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Outstanding job! I'm truly amazed at the detail. So when is the maiden??
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:22 AM
  #2367
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Stickbuilder
Any idea who built the P26 Peashooter, as I have 1/4 scale plans and would like to communicate with someone who has built and flown this model... Thanks
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:36 AM
  #2368
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: BOBFI

Stickbuilder
Any idea who built the P26 Peashooter, as I have 1/4 scale plans and would like to communicate with someone who has built and flown this model... Thanks
BOBFI
No, but I will ask Frankie. He knows who flew what. It shouldn't be too difficult to find out who owns the P-26. It was not in Team Scale, and I don't think it was in either Masters, or Expert. That only leaves Pro-Am. I'll try and find out for you.

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Old 05-13-2007, 10:50 AM
  #2369
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: BOBFI

Stickbuilder
Any idea who built the P26 Peashooter, as I have 1/4 scale plans and would like to communicate with someone who has built and flown this model... Thanks
BOBFI
Bob,
The P-26 was entered by Gerardo Galvez, and was in the Master's class it was # M04, and earned a static score of 94.417. According to the records, the model did not attempt any flights, since it was awarded a score of 0.0 fir the forst flight, 0.0 for the second flight, and 0.0 for the third flight, ending up with a total score of 94.417 which placed the model in 9th place. As to any kind of address for the builder, I have no idea.

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Old 05-13-2007, 06:24 PM
  #2370
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All,
Thought I'd post some photos of my progress, Still have some covering to do on the forward portion of the fuselage, but that is about it.
I need to make one more pass with the incidence meter, and heat gun and we should be ready for primer. I have the instrument panel, (Thank You RC Outlaw) and the insides of the cockpit started. Anyway, here it is.
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:25 PM
  #2371
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Jim

WOW your pics are really getting me fired up I will be ordering plans Monday and I'm sure I'll have a thousand questions. Looking forward to seeing your finished plane. Thanks again to all you brothers for keeping this form going it will be so helpful to me when I get started on my build.

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Old 05-13-2007, 08:19 PM
  #2372
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Jim, That looks great! How did you do your aileron ribs? It's very obvious the spacing is much closer to scale than mine. The pooch looks like he/she is wondering if it's edible or not. It also appears to balance perfectly, isn't that what you're doing in a couple of the pics? Have you decided on colors/scheme yet?
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:40 PM
  #2373
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WACO TEE ORDER STATUS: As of Sunday May 13 I have received payments from those Brothers' names followed by the word 'PAID'. The names listed in 'BLUE' requested to be on the list but I have not yet received payment.
Please try to have your payments in by Thursday May 31. I am only having shirts printed that are paid for at that time. International guys; if you have told me you've sent payment and for some reason it has not arrived by May 31, don't worry, I'll go ahead with printing them. Thanks guys!

WACO BROTHERHOOD TEE SHIRT REQUESTS,
I HAVE YET TO RECEIVE PAYMENT FROM THE NAMES IN 'BLUE'
#1 Stickbuilder PAID
#2 Hughes500E
#3 Jim Henley PAID
#4 mmattockx
#5 CTflyboy PAID
#6 michaelj2k
#7 Ronj10
#8 gwulle
#9 jim schroer PAID
#10 Skinny Bob
#11 Bart5495 PAID
#12 Pimmnz
#13 HarryJ
No. 14 Old Git PAID
#15 ChrisMH
#16 Nerevar
#17 Ricatic
#18 Clay H. PAID
#19 Tripp2Loo PAID
#20 KHodges PAID
#21 Bill Hogue (WACO One)
#22 Mangolo (Waldo)
#23 av8ter
#24 yel914 PAID
#25 damifino
#26 skylarkmk1 PAID
#27 Jacque PAID
#28 Edwin
#29 AROPLANE
#30 CubNut (Anthony)
#31 BQuartucy (Bob Q)
#32 AERORON
#33 funkymusic PAID
#34 RCOutlaw PAID
#35 obo (Bob)
#36 Jackk36 (Jack)
#37 fatherrooster (Jim)
#38 Ilikebipes
#39 Kestrel0222
#40 CROWMAN17 (Marc)
#41 redcesar
#42 S. Christensen (Scott)
#43 Bill Deidrich
#44 Mike Barbee
#45 Bass-Ackward
#46 SoCalSal
#47 Todd (NightStalker)
#48 argon (Bob Gonzalez)
#49 mango 12 (Scott)
#50 skyjet 1 PAID
#51 ZIG
#55 vasek PAID
#60 doc zinger
#64 stifts (Steve)
#66 Mobyal PAID
#69 trlambsr
#77 tomcraig
#100 nine o nine
?? ag4ever
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Old 05-13-2007, 08:40 PM
  #2374
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Ken,
The ribs are done with 1/16 X 1/16 stock on 1/2 inch centers, 27 per side. I was going to cover the ailerons with coverite but I could not
get it to lay down the way I wanted it to, so I think I'll just put a couple coats of dope on them and prime them with Klass Kote.
I am torn between the dark blue with cream, and red and black. I don't know if I can mask the trim and paint it on so I may do red with cream to match the decals (I got from RC Outlaw) and try to do the cockpit in a light tan color. (Sort of like the one in MA).
I was not actually trying to balance the plane, but it felt pretty good with just the engine. No tank, receiver, servos etc.
The dog is "Rascal" he has to be one of the most inquisitve dogs I have ever owned, he does well around the airplanes, I took him flying
with me this morning, but we had to quit. More wind than I wanted to deal with trying to break in a new engine.
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:05 PM
  #2375
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Jim,

The full scale Wacos have ailerons that are fabricated from aluminum, primed and painted and not fabric covered. May I suggest you give your ailerons the same basic treatment. Seal them, apply any putty/filler needed to fill the low spots, fair the stiffener/corrugations in or grain, sand smooth, prime and paint. See the pictures I posted on page 94, post 2336 for examples.

Your plane looks great and the ailerons look good. The actual number of stiffeners doesn't matter as long as they look correct, the illusion is complete.
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