WACO YMF
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RE: WACO YMF
It’s been raining all day so I got some time in on the wing tip project. This is beginning to become a pain but not so much I’ll give up. Seems like each one I do I forget something this time I didn’t allow for the sheeting on w7 & w8 as you can see in pic 2 (easy fix) and I think that the cross braces can be made smaller 1/4x1/4 to 1/8x1/8.
Besides that what do you think.
Besides that what do you think.
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
P1 – It looks like the tip bow could be made thinner top to bottom. Make the cross section more triangular with the point at the outside edge. (See Picture) Reducing the thickness of the diagonals is a good idea.
P2 – Add a cap strip to W-8 to make up for the sheeting. It looks like the leading edge end of the tip bow is too high giving the tip a “wash in” look.
P3 – The rib and tip heights look good.
P4 – Thin the tip bow, have a straight line from the aileron spar through the tip along the bottom, it looks like the tip dropped a little. Again, use a triangular cross section. Raising the tip bow that little bit will help remove some of the “wash in” look. Straighten W-8. Soften the angle break in the aileron spar a little. (picture)
P1 – It looks like the tip bow could be made thinner top to bottom. Make the cross section more triangular with the point at the outside edge. (See Picture) Reducing the thickness of the diagonals is a good idea.
P2 – Add a cap strip to W-8 to make up for the sheeting. It looks like the leading edge end of the tip bow is too high giving the tip a “wash in” look.
P3 – The rib and tip heights look good.
P4 – Thin the tip bow, have a straight line from the aileron spar through the tip along the bottom, it looks like the tip dropped a little. Again, use a triangular cross section. Raising the tip bow that little bit will help remove some of the “wash in” look. Straighten W-8. Soften the angle break in the aileron spar a little. (picture)
My Feedback: (48)
RE: WACO YMF
John,
I sanded the tip bow more triangular as suggested and added the cap strips I painted the ribs so they mite show better W6 is green W7 black W8 brown looks like from the picture W7 needs more work. I’m trying to upload large pictures so you can see better.
I sanded the tip bow more triangular as suggested and added the cap strips I painted the ribs so they mite show better W6 is green W7 black W8 brown looks like from the picture W7 needs more work. I’m trying to upload large pictures so you can see better.
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
The rear view looks much better, the aileron spar does not have the sharp break and the tip bow cross section is much better, still a little thick top to bottom.
I agree that W-7 need a little work. Try putting some tape on W-6 and W-8 or the tip bow and use a flat sanding board to work W-7 into shape. The tape is to protect the ribs and tip bow. You may need to work W-8 as well, just eyeball it to match the full size pictures. Take your time; you don’t want to break any ribs at this point.
The top looks pretty close now.
The rear view looks much better, the aileron spar does not have the sharp break and the tip bow cross section is much better, still a little thick top to bottom.
I agree that W-7 need a little work. Try putting some tape on W-6 and W-8 or the tip bow and use a flat sanding board to work W-7 into shape. The tape is to protect the ribs and tip bow. You may need to work W-8 as well, just eyeball it to match the full size pictures. Take your time; you don’t want to break any ribs at this point.
The top looks pretty close now.
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RE: WACO YMF
Sanded a bit more on W7 & W8 ribs think I’m close when I cut the new bow tips I make them narrower from top to bottom. I just hope I can reproduce when I get it right LOL
Anthony,
I forgot to tell you your pup sure is cute to bad they have to grow upLOL
Anthony,
I forgot to tell you your pup sure is cute to bad they have to grow upLOL
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
It is beginning to look like its supposed to.
There is nothing wrong when one of these puppies grows up. When they do, they look like this..............
Bill, Waco Brother #1
It is beginning to look like its supposed to.
There is nothing wrong when one of these puppies grows up. When they do, they look like this..............
Bill, Waco Brother #1
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
Looking much better. Put a quick covering on it and lets see how it looks then. What are you using for the tip bows? I am thinking spruce or bass wood will give the strength in the thinner cross section. When using the thinner bow, keep the top edge where it is now too keep the top alignment with ribs. You don't want it to have the droopy look.
Looking much better. Put a quick covering on it and lets see how it looks then. What are you using for the tip bows? I am thinking spruce or bass wood will give the strength in the thinner cross section. When using the thinner bow, keep the top edge where it is now too keep the top alignment with ribs. You don't want it to have the droopy look.
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RE: WACO YMF
Hello friends, its me again on the wing fillets. I am trying to work with the plastic fillets supplied with the kit, but in cutting them to shape I encountered a doubt, i first cutted the fairings from the plastic sheet and got what you see in the pics, now looking closely there are some lines suggesting a "cutting line" resulting in a thiner fairing. These can be seen in the pics as well. Eyeballing, it may seem that I should cut/trim to those lines, but if I get it wrong there is no way back .
Any one who have worked with the plastic fairings could gine me some advise?
Greetings to all from Chile.
p.s. its my fist uploading of pics so they may not go on the first try!
Any one who have worked with the plastic fairings could gine me some advise?
Greetings to all from Chile.
p.s. its my fist uploading of pics so they may not go on the first try!
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
Sanded a bit more on W7 & W8 ribs think I’m close when I cut the new bow tips I make them narrower from top to bottom. I just hope I can reproduce when I get it right LOL
Sanded a bit more on W7 & W8 ribs think I’m close when I cut the new bow tips I make them narrower from top to bottom. I just hope I can reproduce when I get it right LOL
Bill, Waco Brother #1
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
I can appreciate the effort you are putting into getting the wing tips “right on”. The effort is going to pay off. By any chance are you contemplating a competition WACO.
Biplano,
I do not think that many of us have seen a kit with the plastic fairings.
I can appreciate the effort you are putting into getting the wing tips “right on”. The effort is going to pay off. By any chance are you contemplating a competition WACO.
Biplano,
I do not think that many of us have seen a kit with the plastic fairings.
RE: WACO YMF
biplano,
Use paper or cardboard to make you fairing template and then transfer it to the plastic. If you make a mistake cut anther piece of paper and start over. The modern full size fairings are done in 3 pieces, the fairing on NC 14031 was restored as one piece. You need to decide on which era you want to do.
There are 2 styles of fairings. The original 1935 style, longer, attaches lower on the fuselage, straight on the bottom (P1/4)
Modern by Waco Classic - a little shorter, attaches higher on the fuselage, Pronounced recurve on bottom (P2/3)
P1 - Original on 1934 Waco U/YMF NC 19031 (Platt/Pica/Matt subject)
P2 - Modern on 1987 Waco Classic YMF NC 14081
P3 - Modern on 1987 Waco Classic YMF NC 14081 showing the bottom recurve
P4 - Original on 1934 Waco U/YMF NC 19031 (Platt/Pica/Matt subject) showing the flat bottom of the fairing
Use paper or cardboard to make you fairing template and then transfer it to the plastic. If you make a mistake cut anther piece of paper and start over. The modern full size fairings are done in 3 pieces, the fairing on NC 14031 was restored as one piece. You need to decide on which era you want to do.
There are 2 styles of fairings. The original 1935 style, longer, attaches lower on the fuselage, straight on the bottom (P1/4)
Modern by Waco Classic - a little shorter, attaches higher on the fuselage, Pronounced recurve on bottom (P2/3)
P1 - Original on 1934 Waco U/YMF NC 19031 (Platt/Pica/Matt subject)
P2 - Modern on 1987 Waco Classic YMF NC 14081
P3 - Modern on 1987 Waco Classic YMF NC 14081 showing the bottom recurve
P4 - Original on 1934 Waco U/YMF NC 19031 (Platt/Pica/Matt subject) showing the flat bottom of the fairing
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RE: WACO YMF
John, I just remembered, sorry for the delay, but could you PM me the info I need to send you the funds for the CD for NC 14031 thats the plane I'm modeling my WACO after, thanks again Geroge. Dan Tips are looking great, excellent job!!
RE: WACO YMF
George,
You will need to get the CD from Hank Jackson, the owner of NC 14031. Or better yet he has the plane up for sale and you could get the real thing. I will PM you Hanks e-mail and you can contact him about both.
You will need to get the CD from Hank Jackson, the owner of NC 14031. Or better yet he has the plane up for sale and you could get the real thing. I will PM you Hanks e-mail and you can contact him about both.
RE: WACO YMF
John,
Have you hear anything about Robin Williams? He did not make it to the Waco Fly-In last year in Troy Oh and they said he was having some health issues. I was hoping to get a look at his Waco while I was there.
Later!!
Anthony
Have you hear anything about Robin Williams? He did not make it to the Waco Fly-In last year in Troy Oh and they said he was having some health issues. I was hoping to get a look at his Waco while I was there.
Later!!
Anthony
RE: WACO YMF
Anthony,
He was at the AWC Fly In at Creve Coeur this year. He flew in commercial as he was having the wings repaired/recovered on NC 14081. For a guy in his, I believe, 80's he has some issues but seemed fine this year.
It's too bad the plane didn't make it, I also wanted to take more pictures and measurements of things the group has been asking about.
He was at the AWC Fly In at Creve Coeur this year. He flew in commercial as he was having the wings repaired/recovered on NC 14081. For a guy in his, I believe, 80's he has some issues but seemed fine this year.
It's too bad the plane didn't make it, I also wanted to take more pictures and measurements of things the group has been asking about.
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RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
John,
I resized your patterns until I got W6 A to the right length of 8 ½ in and set on the plans (pic 1) then W7 & W8. You can see that W7 is a little longer and W8 even longer then the out line on the plan shows. If this is correct so far the wing block will have to be redrawn to a new shape. I then traced new shape over the original ribs this is a big difference if I’ve got it right. The only problem I see is the W6 A rib if the bottom is cut to the new shape it won’t lay on the bottom sheeting I guess it could be glued down and sanded to shape latter. Let me know what you think.
John,
I resized your patterns until I got W6 A to the right length of 8 ½ in and set on the plans (pic 1) then W7 & W8. You can see that W7 is a little longer and W8 even longer then the out line on the plan shows. If this is correct so far the wing block will have to be redrawn to a new shape. I then traced new shape over the original ribs this is a big difference if I’ve got it right. The only problem I see is the W6 A rib if the bottom is cut to the new shape it won’t lay on the bottom sheeting I guess it could be glued down and sanded to shape latter. Let me know what you think.
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RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: FliteMetal
I need some assistance from the Brotherhood. I market all the Bill Effinger Designs. You may have only known of Bill's
work either as Bill Buckely, Buckely Models, or WET, W.E. Technical Services. Bill was an aeronautical engineer who's designs
were typically 25 to 30% lighter weight, yet very large for the era in which they were originally released.
Bill never had fiber glass for his designs. Instead he contracted with a gentleman in Michigan who stopped laying up glass a long
time ago, followed by someone who sucome to the ills of diabetes loosing his legs so he too stopped laying up glass parts in
support of Bill's designs. We have managed to purchase and are in the act of bringing in all the fiber glass molds for all the WET
designs....
however...
The 1/4 Scale WACO WHD fiber glass parts which ''were'' available from proper molds....are no longer available because molds
have disappeared. Due to the health of the person we purchased molds from, it was impossible to learn if he sold or lost the molds.
If anyone in the WACO Brotherhood has the cowl, wheel pants, and fairings for the WET WACO WHD we are asking for help.
We would like to use your fiber glass parts to make new molds for these items.
Does anyone here have the cowl, wheel pants and fairings for the WET aka Bill Effinger Designs 1/4 scale WACO WHD ? ? ? ? ?
I need some assistance from the Brotherhood. I market all the Bill Effinger Designs. You may have only known of Bill's
work either as Bill Buckely, Buckely Models, or WET, W.E. Technical Services. Bill was an aeronautical engineer who's designs
were typically 25 to 30% lighter weight, yet very large for the era in which they were originally released.
Bill never had fiber glass for his designs. Instead he contracted with a gentleman in Michigan who stopped laying up glass a long
time ago, followed by someone who sucome to the ills of diabetes loosing his legs so he too stopped laying up glass parts in
support of Bill's designs. We have managed to purchase and are in the act of bringing in all the fiber glass molds for all the WET
designs....
however...
The 1/4 Scale WACO WHD fiber glass parts which ''were'' available from proper molds....are no longer available because molds
have disappeared. Due to the health of the person we purchased molds from, it was impossible to learn if he sold or lost the molds.
If anyone in the WACO Brotherhood has the cowl, wheel pants, and fairings for the WET WACO WHD we are asking for help.
We would like to use your fiber glass parts to make new molds for these items.
Does anyone here have the cowl, wheel pants and fairings for the WET aka Bill Effinger Designs 1/4 scale WACO WHD ? ? ? ? ?
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RE: WACO YMF
IT FLIES!!!!
I had what must be my best maiden flight ever! 40%'r lifted off at 1/2 power, in about 30ft. took her on the downwind leg, my spotter asked if I needed any trim, I said I don't even have my fingers on the sticks. Hands off NO trim required on any surface.
I balanced the plane at 28-30%, not where AMR said to (36%)....absolutely perfect!!!
For a 76 lb. plane it feels very nimble, although I didn't do any rolls, loops etc, it feels like it would be no effort. I now have 13 flights on it with only a couple of issues.
1....I need to re-think/engineer my tail wheel steering
2....One of the 3/8ths. axles on the main gear snapped on a greaser of a landing splitting the wheel pant. We fixed it for the day and continued to fly.
Slow passes with the the big Moki burbling along, the plane flying tail high, what a sight and sound[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
The engine runs hot with the cowl on, #1 cyl 300*...cowl off 210* I have some work to do on this.
pictures and some video will follow soon (not the maiden, but # 2 and 3.)
Cheers from,
A VERY HAPPY
Dave.
W/B #180
I had what must be my best maiden flight ever! 40%'r lifted off at 1/2 power, in about 30ft. took her on the downwind leg, my spotter asked if I needed any trim, I said I don't even have my fingers on the sticks. Hands off NO trim required on any surface.
I balanced the plane at 28-30%, not where AMR said to (36%)....absolutely perfect!!!
For a 76 lb. plane it feels very nimble, although I didn't do any rolls, loops etc, it feels like it would be no effort. I now have 13 flights on it with only a couple of issues.
1....I need to re-think/engineer my tail wheel steering
2....One of the 3/8ths. axles on the main gear snapped on a greaser of a landing splitting the wheel pant. We fixed it for the day and continued to fly.
Slow passes with the the big Moki burbling along, the plane flying tail high, what a sight and sound[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
The engine runs hot with the cowl on, #1 cyl 300*...cowl off 210* I have some work to do on this.
pictures and some video will follow soon (not the maiden, but # 2 and 3.)
Cheers from,
A VERY HAPPY
Dave.
W/B #180