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WACO YMF

Old 07-02-2014, 09:38 AM
  #17526  
mrdhud
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Mitch,
Don't know I'll have the nerves to fly this big Waco much less at TG lol.
Old 07-02-2014, 10:50 AM
  #17527  
nine o nine
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Bigger definitely flies easier Dan.
Old 07-02-2014, 01:27 PM
  #17528  
ceije
 
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file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/25408_1052818317.jpg file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/103977.jpg file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/ac567102.jpg

dan, the first picture is the factory paint of the bird i'm using, the second is as it stands today the third is fill. since i'm building for me not scale i'm going to use the blue with the the side stripes and rudder markings of the green version.
Old 07-02-2014, 01:31 PM
  #17529  
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Chris try uploading your pictures again.
Old 07-02-2014, 01:35 PM
  #17530  
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i'll try tomorrow, too many irons in the fire right now

chris,ceije 196
Old 07-05-2014, 05:52 AM
  #17531  
hopkimf
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Barth YMF 1/3
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.

Thanks,

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood # 132
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:22 AM
  #17532  
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Well, It's aluminum on the full scale. I feel sure it does not contain any compound curves, so on a model of that scale, very thin aluminum should work. On my Pica 1/5 scale is just balsa sheet and finished to look like metal ( at lest that's what I intended). I would not recommend a plastic unless it's going over a solid surface, as I think it could deform pretty easily.

Dash
Old 07-05-2014, 07:49 AM
  #17533  
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Dan, here goes again the blue is my intended color choice with the stripes and numbers of the green. the blue is its factory color the green is as it sits now in Ocala-if anybody is interested it is for sale!!file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/untitled%20folder/
Old 07-05-2014, 09:08 AM
  #17534  
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Mike,
Not sure what is on the photo, but on a 1/3 scale I would think a very thin sheet of G-10 would work real well.
Old 07-05-2014, 03:49 PM
  #17535  
hopkimf
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Jim,

Thanks for the advice. I did locate some G-10 on the web. I was thinking 0.015 inch thick. Does that sound about right? I have no experience with it.

Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132

Last edited by hopkimf; 07-05-2014 at 03:57 PM.
Old 07-05-2014, 03:51 PM
  #17536  
tmac48
 
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Originally Posted by hopkimf
Barth YMF 1/3
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.

Thanks,

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood # 132





.5 alloy and there is compound curves.
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:04 PM
  #17537  
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I use aluminum flashing for a lot of panels. But one time I needed more flexibility than the aluminum would give, due to the compound curves. On a smooth surface I laminated 2 plies of 3/4oz glass, 18" wide by 24" long, and it turned out so well I am using it instead of metal. Adding another layer really stiffens it up, so 3ply seems to be real good, and a little bit of heat on the glass makes it very pliable for a compound curve.
Just some food for thought.
Old 07-05-2014, 04:59 PM
  #17538  
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Mike,
I think I'd try .010 you want it as thin as possible so it will follow the curves.
Old 07-06-2014, 03:29 AM
  #17539  
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to all for what its worth, the 1/4 Barth uses a ply covering of about 1/64, a metal appearance can be achieved with a product called flite-metal at flitemetal.com. most of the metal finishes seen is this product, they explain how to achieve the compound curves in their instructions. good luck and happy hunting..

Chris melhus,ceije 196
Old 07-06-2014, 04:15 AM
  #17540  
Cougar429
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Well, I may have brought home a convert . Had the chance to put flights 3 & 4 on the logs with the cowl mounted and although had tons of trouble with other things, (dead flight case battery, Harvard fuel system issue, etc) was pleased with its presence on the ground and in the air. Only a bit more tweaking to trims and aileron expo to get the feel the way I like. With the gap at the back of the cowl did not seem to suffer any cooling problems at all and I have to say that bump cowl makes all the difference to the appearance.

Wind started to pick up as day progressed and grass was causing a bit of fun with the wheel pants. Ground looped on the first attempt to hold the tail level. Remember this sort of thing with full-size, so should have been on the ball.

My friend that almost exclusively flies turbines now joined me and as I was preparing the WACO, left him to the sticks on my Super Skybolt, (used to be his anyway). He always states regret he let that one go, but not a thing about finding another. So, was a bit surprised after I let him play with the sticks for a couple flights and while putting things away he asked me to keep my eyes open for one this size or larger........
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:16 AM
  #17541  
mrdhud
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decals installed on cowl next will be the clear coat.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:48 PM
  #17542  
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That came out real nice Dan.
Old 07-07-2014, 03:31 PM
  #17543  
hopkimf
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Jim Henley,

Took your advice and located some .010 G-10 at Frank Tiano in FL. Another post here suggested a little heat for compound curves. It's mostly cylindrical but it does pull in a little toward the front. Should work. I like what tmac48 did, but I don't have the skill to pull it off. His work is great.

Mike Hopkins

WB # 132
Old 07-07-2014, 05:05 PM
  #17544  
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One question for the forum. Now that I'm confident nothing major needs to be changed, looking at adding flying wires. Need to be relatively quick to assemble/disassemble at the field.

Anyone have any ideas? Pics would be nice.
Old 07-07-2014, 05:12 PM
  #17545  
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Originally Posted by Cougar429
One question for the forum. Now that I'm confident nothing major needs to be changed, looking at adding flying wires. Need to be relatively quick to assemble/disassemble at the field.

Anyone have any ideas? Pics would be nice.
For my 1/5 scale I used 4-40 push rods with brass tubing flattened and solder on.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:48 PM
  #17546  
Cougar429
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Interesting. How did you mount the ends to the fuse behind the cowl?
Old 07-07-2014, 05:57 PM
  #17547  
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I used some of these brass (look and feel like brass anyway) threaded extensions in the fuse, the brass end of the wire screws into it.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:59 PM
  #17548  
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Originally Posted by mrdhud

decals installed on cowl next will be the clear coat.



I don't know how you got them to go on and look so perfect. Are they really that good in real life or are there imperfections that do not show up in photos?
How about I send you my cowl and you can do mine!
Impressed,tmac. PS the alloy is not hard to do at all, when done in sections as per the full scale. The only one that I found difficult was the rear cockpit but soon discovered that the rear of the cockpit cut out had to be opened up to allow for the panel to conform to the shape of the fuselage. I found that thin ply and thin plastic all required the same treatment as the alloy but the alloy had the advantage of being able to retain its shape.
Old 07-07-2014, 09:07 PM
  #17549  
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Originally Posted by acerc

For my 1/5 scale I used 4-40 push rods with brass tubing flattened and solder on.
Your flying wires look nice but they are not installed to prevent the wings from folding up on a high G lift.

Zor

Last edited by Zor; 07-08-2014 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Corrected you to your
Old 07-08-2014, 03:01 AM
  #17550  
mrdhud
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Originally Posted by tmac48
I don't know how you got them to go on and look so perfect. Are they really that good in real life or are there imperfections that do not show up in photos?
How about I send you my cowl and you can do mine!
Impressed,tmac. PS the alloy is not hard to do at all, when done in sections as per the full scale. The only one that I found difficult was the rear cockpit but soon discovered that the rear of the cockpit cut out had to be opened up to allow for the panel to conform to the shape of the fuselage. I found that thin ply and thin plastic all required the same treatment as the alloy but the alloy had the advantage of being able to retain its shape.
tmac
The builder (Mason) sent me that picture I haven't see the cowl close up yet I'm going over today and I will talk to him and find out if he had any problems. This was the last of the decals to be installed. I'll get more pictures today.

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