hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

It's unfortunate that people steal material like that. I've built three IKON kits over the years. Wrecked two; still have one. I didn't really care for the kits, but they were fairly light and flew fine. I wish there were more legitimate kit makers offering lineups similar to the 1/4 scale IKON offered.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood # 132

I replied to wrong thread from Stickbuilder. Should have been one on pirating kits.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

I picked the waco up today or I should say most of it I couldn't fit it all in my van. I will have to build some wing racks. Mason did a fantastic job building it. Still don't know what I was thinking this is one big bird.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Went to a scale rally yesterday, and after most of the rain finally went away pulled the WACO from the van and put it together. Despite some pretty nice scale machines, including a MUCH larger Sikorsky amphib and quite a few examples of the Dawn Patrol, the bipe seemed to attract a lot of attention. Good confirmation of why I like this one so much.

Despite the weather and some tight time restraints was asked to get airborne again for some pics and vids, Had noticed some power/pitch changes so mixed in a very small amount of down elevator. Made all the difference and much easier than hacking away at the mount to add more downthrust.

I was interviewed later and may end up online. Unfortunately they finally caught up with me when the plane was back in the van, so not the most photogenic.

So, here's the only problem. In the air it's a beaut. Ground handling is a different story and if windy and taxiing on pavement, (not my normal surface) the directional control is so bad it could be dangerous. May have to pull the wheels and pants to force some toe-in, but the wires are pretty flexible and I plan to take it up on vacation in a few days. May not even unload it before then. The only other quick fix is to replace the tailwheel spring with one a bit stronger.

On the Pica kits, does anyone know if their L/G wires are standard strength, or would it be worth pulling the gear over the winter and manufacturing one that could at least try to stay pointed in the same direction?

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

YMF 1/3 Barth
Thanks to a suggestion here I went with 0.010 G-10 for the fiberglass over fuse. Wasn't going to do it, but with a project like this, might as well make it as scale as possible. Stuff goes on pretty well using #2 x 3/16 button head screws from Micro Fasteners. Seems like millions of them. Probably # 0 would be more scale but these are so small I can barely see them. I cut the hole for front cockpit, but I'm not going to do anything with it. Just add a cover.

I looked at picture and noted an R on one of the fiberglass pieces. Since left and right should be the same, why? As it turns out, close enough to be interchangeable.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood # 132

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Mike
Your Waco's look great I have mine programmed in my radio can you or any one tell me a good starting point to set the throws for the control surfaces for the 1/3 scale?

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

mrdhud,

Mine is still (forever) being built by me. Below is something I copied from a 2010 manual from Barth. Kinda sketchy.

What the maiden flight is concerned the Waco is very easy to handle. On a grass landing strip she goes straight of and does lift the tail relatively fast.
The throw of the rudder should be the max. you can get, not be necessary during take offs but for aerobatics.
Aileron throw should not be more then 30° as otherwise the ailerons will increase the drag significantly. On down elevator the Waco reacts very sensitive as for elevator up the reaction is slower. At some headwind you may bring the aircraft to a nearly stand still, she will fly very slow. A stall will be symmetrical, no wing over but just takes the nose down to gain some speed, she will be all the time steerable but will react a bit slower as usual at "normal" speeds.
The engine down thrust should be 1,5 to 2°, side thrust approx. 2,5° to the right. These are only benchmarks and have to be adjusted for your engine.
Servos should have a minimum torque of 80 - 110Ncm (7 – 10 lbf in), you should use two of those for the elevator and two for the ruder. At the ailerons I used always only one for each of the 110Ncm (10 lbf in).

MH WB # 132

acerc

Dan, I believe the following throws suits the Waco real well.

ELE = Hi-14° Lo-8°
Rud = Hi- 22° Lo-17°
Ail = Hi-18° Lo-14°

LesUyeda

I hate dual rates, I hate dual rates, I hate dual rates. The few times I have tried them, I have invariably been in the WRONG rate selection at a critical time. I much prefer exponential, where you have the best of both worlds, without having to be concerned about throwing a switch.

There! I said it and I'm glad:-))))))))))))

Les

acerc

I do as well, but find them useful for maidening. After the first couple of flights I end up with an adjusted rate of which I never vary from. Which is usually on the middle rate.

froghair1

If I am not mistaken this guy wants you to send money in advance ,and commit to buying a kit, as soon as he collects enough money to buy a laser cutter to make the kits with. Just about the best deal I ever heard of. This is in response to stickbuilders post about pirating pica kits

tmac48

Getting closer, need to add trim on the wings, install landing lights and receiver and batteries. Will test fly before finishing the cockpits.

Regards tmac48.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Froghair1, that deal sounds just about what you get from a televangelist.

Was able to put a couple more flights on the plane last week. Brought it with us as we headed out to meet family and was invited to fly again at the local club.

Only recurring issue is the fuel consumption and have posted on other forums here hoping to nail down why. Mention it here as I cannot remember the stock fuel tank size on the 1/5 Pica and was wondering if anyone can let me know. Think it's 12 oz, but would have to rip out the servo tray to confirm.

ceije

tmac, your bird is super-good luck with your test flights. your fuel fittings were they hand made or from the open market they look great!!

chris melhus ceije 196

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Tmac,
That is one drop dead beautiful Waco I hope to see you at Top Gun. What do you have up front for power? Look forward to your maiden flight do hope you can have someone video it for you.

tmac48

Chris & mrdhud, DA 150 up front. Fuel filling caps turned on the lathe, vent pipes from brass hooks straightened out, small brass base turned on the lathe then all chromed. This is screwed into small dowel that is glued to the tank top.

Regards tmac

ceije

tmac, greetings to down under, thank you for the information, you must have access to a machine shop and lathes. they do help make a difference, as a friend of mine and i say you have skills.
regards,
chris melhus, ceije 196

acerc

See Dan, yours will do well with the DLE 170!! LOL...

tmac48

Chris, I have no machining or lathe schooling since High school ( when I was 15 yrs. old ) You or anyone else that is involved in this hobby has just as much skill as I have if not more. I find that each model that I build teaches me something new and I obtain a bit more experience, I take notice of how other modellers tackle something and adopt or modify to suit my skill level. I can assure you I am a middle of the road builder, but thank you for your kind remarks.
A couple of pictures of my work area that is shared with the wife's car.
tmac

acerc

And like many talented modelers your modest as well. Beautiful plane tmac..

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello all,
Need some help deciding on servo arms and how to hook them up on the 1/3 scale Barth. First let me say I used the stock arm that came with the Hitec servos and the standard clevises (bad idea maybe?). The ruder and tail wheel are on one servo on pull/pull cables. While loading the plane up in my van to bring her home I bumped the ruder and the clevis popped off the servo arm rendering it useless if this would have happened in the air well that probably would have done her in. So before the maiden flight I will upgrade all the servo arms clevises and control horns. This is where I need help choosing what and where to buy them. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

LesUyeda

Dan. You need to remember that you are not likely to "bump" the rudder when the plane is in the air.

Les

Jim Henley

Dan,
The largest plane I have built is a 1/3 Sig Spacewalker. I would suggest on the rudder/tail wheel you may want to look at SWB for a servo arm and their turnbuckle linkages for your pull-pull.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

It's not clear what was at fault. The clevis or the servo arm? Maybe a better clevis would be just fine.

acerc

If your speaking of Dan's Waco, it was the clevis that gave way. With the set up in his model I suggested he go with ball links at the servo, very, very, difficult to get to the servo. The end on the rudder would be best to have a weak point, and I don't mean weak but rather giving if need be.

tmac48

Dan, my rudder and tail wheel are on the one servo but I have used a SECRAFT rudder tray and the tail wheel is driven via a spring that acts as a shocker absorber to protect the servo. I will see if I have a photo.
tmac.