WACO YMF
10-05-2014, 06:08 PM
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Bill,
I understand the idea of putting in a servo driven horizontal stab trim. Makes it more scale like for sure. I remember the Cub I learned to fly years ago was set up like that. Pretty easy on the full scale.
But I'm wondering if it can make the RC plane fly better than it would with transmitter elevator trim? If you put in horiz stab servo trim, you now have two ways to trim the plane. Horiz stab or transmitter elevator trim. Why have both? Maybe something I'm not getting here.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132.
I understand the idea of putting in a servo driven horizontal stab trim. Makes it more scale like for sure. I remember the Cub I learned to fly years ago was set up like that. Pretty easy on the full scale.
But I'm wondering if it can make the RC plane fly better than it would with transmitter elevator trim? If you put in horiz stab servo trim, you now have two ways to trim the plane. Horiz stab or transmitter elevator trim. Why have both? Maybe something I'm not getting here.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132.
10-05-2014, 06:18 PM
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Has the adjustable stab been rock solid? How did you set it up on your radio? 3 way switch or just one?
Nice to have for sure though.
Robert
Nice to have for sure though.
Robert
Most of the mods to the plan/kits were done right here. We have tried to take the pain out of doing it closer to right. Hope it all works out for you. The in flight adjustable horizontal stabilizer was done by yours truly, along with a few other things. Enjoy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
10-07-2014, 09:07 AM
Thread Starter
In the order posted. Using elevator trim is still a patch. Incidence allows the correct flying attitude with trim at zero. It's rock solid. Some have made the adjustment using a bolt and making it ground adjustable.
I use a flap dial on my transmitter for the horizontal stab adjustment.
For center of balance, find the m ean average chord. Raise the tail until the datum line is parallel to the work surface. Drop a weighted string from the leading edge of the top wing to the work surfaced. Mark this spot. Now drop the weighted string straight down from the trailing edge of the bottom wing and Mark this spot. Measure the distance between the 2 marks. This is the mean average chord or mean aerodynamic chord. Calculate 28 to 30% of this number and that's how far back from the leading edge of the top wing the model should balance.
Bill,Waco Brother #1
I use a flap dial on my transmitter for the horizontal stab adjustment.
For center of balance, find the m ean average chord. Raise the tail until the datum line is parallel to the work surface. Drop a weighted string from the leading edge of the top wing to the work surfaced. Mark this spot. Now drop the weighted string straight down from the trailing edge of the bottom wing and Mark this spot. Measure the distance between the 2 marks. This is the mean average chord or mean aerodynamic chord. Calculate 28 to 30% of this number and that's how far back from the leading edge of the top wing the model should balance.
Bill,Waco Brother #1
Last edited by Stickbuilder; 10-07-2014 at 09:33 AM.
10-07-2014, 09:27 AM
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In the order posted. Using elevator trim is still a patch. Incidence allows the correct flying attitude with trim at zero. It's rock solid. Some have made the adjustment using a bolt and making it ground adjustable.
I use a flap dial on my transmitter for the horizontal stab adjustment.
For center of balance, find the m ean average chord. Raise the tail until the datum line is parallel to the work surface. Drop a weighted string from the leading edge of the top wing to the work surfaced. Mark this spot. Now drop the weighted string straight down from the trailing edge of the bottom wing and Mark this spot. Measure the distance between the 2 marks. This is the mean average chord or mean aerodynamic chord. Calculate 28 to 30% of this number and that's how far back from the leading edge of the top wing the model should balance.
I use a flap dial on my transmitter for the horizontal stab adjustment.
For center of balance, find the m ean average chord. Raise the tail until the datum line is parallel to the work surface. Drop a weighted string from the leading edge of the top wing to the work surfaced. Mark this spot. Now drop the weighted string straight down from the trailing edge of the bottom wing and Mark this spot. Measure the distance between the 2 marks. This is the mean average chord or mean aerodynamic chord. Calculate 28 to 30% of this number and that's how far back from the leading edge of the top wing the model should balance.
10-07-2014, 09:32 AM
Thread Starter
Find the main stringer on the fuse. It is about 2/3 up from the bottom. It has no curve at all. That's your datum line. Look at your plans. You can easily see it there.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
10-07-2014, 10:25 AM
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Thanks. I knew it ran nose to tail but wasn't remembering what made it the qualifying line or how it was decided.
10-07-2014, 12:56 PM
Thread Starter
Bill, Waco Brother #1
10-08-2014, 07:35 AM
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Good luck !!!
What make is the muffler on that DLE engine ?
What make is the muffler on that DLE engine ?
Well I have been following this thread for a few years with the thought that I would like to build a Waco on my bucket list. I would check in every once in a while. Well a club member donated his planes to our club and I ended up purchasing this from the club. I just had to have it! Kept trying to talk myself out of it but once I got a good look at it I couldn't resist.
After research it is a 1/5 scale from AMA/Pica plans. Has a DLE30 engine. A servo adjustable stab too (incidence). The gentleman that built this did a lot of research, calculations etc. and all was included with it. I still have to go through everything to get a grasp where it's at. My goal is to finish it by a May giant scale fly-in here. I'm guessing it is about 85-90% done. Isn't that last 10% the hardest?
Most of what is left should be pretty easy once I figure it all out. The hard thing will be the struts I imagine but I have some information that too. I will be adding a lot of scale detail hopefully.
Will be covered in solartex (some of it already is) and painted with either Klass Kote or Randolph paints.
Wish me luck!
Robert King
After research it is a 1/5 scale from AMA/Pica plans. Has a DLE30 engine. A servo adjustable stab too (incidence). The gentleman that built this did a lot of research, calculations etc. and all was included with it. I still have to go through everything to get a grasp where it's at. My goal is to finish it by a May giant scale fly-in here. I'm guessing it is about 85-90% done. Isn't that last 10% the hardest?
Most of what is left should be pretty easy once I figure it all out. The hard thing will be the struts I imagine but I have some information that too. I will be adding a lot of scale detail hopefully.
Will be covered in solartex (some of it already is) and painted with either Klass Kote or Randolph paints.
Wish me luck!
Robert King
10-08-2014, 09:08 AM
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Thanks! The hard part is figuring out what is done and what needs to be done and double checking things. This thread has helped a lot so far.
As far as the muffler there is no marking on it. I also have a Bison wraparound that came with it but I'm thinking this is a custom one. Looks nice. Will have to see how it works.
Robert
As far as the muffler there is no marking on it. I also have a Bison wraparound that came with it but I'm thinking this is a custom one. Looks nice. Will have to see how it works.
Robert
10-13-2014, 03:44 PM
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Waco YMF 1/3 Barth
Starting to set up radio equipment. Some time ago Waconut mentioned Hitec Aurora 9 as something to look at. I bought one almost new on RCU with an Optima 9 receiver. 2.4 is brand new to me. Until now everything has been 72 Mhz. Waco is now set up for throttle, ailerons on two channels, rudder, and split tail on two. It's pretty nice, and after some reading, not hard to do.. In the process I found a strip of 3M Dual Lock in the transmitter case. This appears to be pretty good stuff, but expensive. I'm thinking it could be used to locate receiver and batteries as well. Has anyone used it for that purpose? Acceptable?
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Starting to set up radio equipment. Some time ago Waconut mentioned Hitec Aurora 9 as something to look at. I bought one almost new on RCU with an Optima 9 receiver. 2.4 is brand new to me. Until now everything has been 72 Mhz. Waco is now set up for throttle, ailerons on two channels, rudder, and split tail on two. It's pretty nice, and after some reading, not hard to do.. In the process I found a strip of 3M Dual Lock in the transmitter case. This appears to be pretty good stuff, but expensive. I'm thinking it could be used to locate receiver and batteries as well. Has anyone used it for that purpose? Acceptable?
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Last edited by hopkimf; 10-13-2014 at 03:46 PM. Reason: typos
10-14-2014, 05:05 AM
Hi Mike,
I hope you like the radio all my planes are now on the Aurora 9. Sounds like we have identical set-ups on the radio. Setting up the throws and expo are very easy with this radio.
The 3M Dual Lock is great stuff. I use it to secure my receivers. I would think it would also secure batteries just fine. The stuff really holds tight. Where I located my batteries they are secured in the front of the landing gear belly pan. This area was perfect in the AMR kit for holding the batteries and all I had to do was wrap them with a little foam and stuff them in place. I still added about 3 lbs to the firewall for balance.
Later!!
Anthony
I hope you like the radio all my planes are now on the Aurora 9. Sounds like we have identical set-ups on the radio. Setting up the throws and expo are very easy with this radio.
The 3M Dual Lock is great stuff. I use it to secure my receivers. I would think it would also secure batteries just fine. The stuff really holds tight. Where I located my batteries they are secured in the front of the landing gear belly pan. This area was perfect in the AMR kit for holding the batteries and all I had to do was wrap them with a little foam and stuff them in place. I still added about 3 lbs to the firewall for balance.
Later!!
Anthony
10-15-2014, 03:49 AM
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another good fligth with moki 250 at show event in israel. so much Satisfaction and Beauty 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90G5icIVwLE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90G5icIVwLE
10-17-2014, 02:00 PM
Hi everyone, I am back. What a truly lucky country Australia is and how lucky am I to be an Aussie. The way I was treated and fussed over while in Hospital was truly amazing. For the first time in about 12yrs I awoke without any pain in my hips and legs. A short 6-8 weeks for the wound in the back to completely heal and I can then get back to all of my usual duties. Cant wait to get back to the Waco and finish her up!
Regards tmac
Regards tmac
10-17-2014, 02:34 PM
Hi everyone, I am back. What a truly lucky country Australia is and how lucky am I to be an Aussie. The way I was treated and fussed over while in Hospital was truly amazing. For the first time in about 12yrs I awoke without any pain in my hips and legs. A short 6-8 weeks for the wound in the back to completely heal and I can then get back to all of my usual duties. Cant wait to get back to the Waco and finish her up!
Regards tmac
Regards tmac
10-21-2014, 05:51 PM
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YMF 1/3 Barth
Slow progress continues. Engine mounted, all servos working. Getting toward home stretch. I have learned plenty during the process. In the beginning I shopped lowest cost. I found an old NIB Barth kit on its third owner and bought it cheap. That may not be all bad, but newer have a redesigned fuse.,removeable tail, stronger gear, etc. On the engine I bought an Evolution 152GX (MVVS152) for a bargain price. It was withdrawn by Horizon, and now I see MVVS has a new one due out. Big problem with engine was rear carb that interfered with standoffs. So I did a workaround to clear throttle linkage with standoffs. But WacoNut convinced me a box was better than what I had. So I made the box, and was forced to make bellcrank linkages for both throttle and choke. The rear mounted Walbro carb on the 152 is a horrible design. I now know why it was withdrawn by Horizon. The new one due soon from MVVS has a bottom mounted carb.
When finished, the model will be fine, but without the latest improvements in design and scale appearance.
My advice to anyone considering building a project this big, don't cut any corners like I did. Get the best stuff out there. Buy new and buy the best.
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Slow progress continues. Engine mounted, all servos working. Getting toward home stretch. I have learned plenty during the process. In the beginning I shopped lowest cost. I found an old NIB Barth kit on its third owner and bought it cheap. That may not be all bad, but newer have a redesigned fuse.,removeable tail, stronger gear, etc. On the engine I bought an Evolution 152GX (MVVS152) for a bargain price. It was withdrawn by Horizon, and now I see MVVS has a new one due out. Big problem with engine was rear carb that interfered with standoffs. So I did a workaround to clear throttle linkage with standoffs. But WacoNut convinced me a box was better than what I had. So I made the box, and was forced to make bellcrank linkages for both throttle and choke. The rear mounted Walbro carb on the 152 is a horrible design. I now know why it was withdrawn by Horizon. The new one due soon from MVVS has a bottom mounted carb.
When finished, the model will be fine, but without the latest improvements in design and scale appearance.
My advice to anyone considering building a project this big, don't cut any corners like I did. Get the best stuff out there. Buy new and buy the best.
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
10-25-2014, 06:41 PM
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I just couldn't make it this year. If I make it down next year, I may just put the big green Waco up for sale. I only flew it for one weekend this year. Someone needs to own it that will make good use of it.
Cheers,
Dave.
Cheers,
Dave.
10-31-2014, 12:44 AM
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Hi hopkimf
Looking at your lettering. Looks great. Is it to scale? Would you know what the height and width of the letters are on the full size Waco. I need to find out as I am at that stage on my plane.
ERROL LEVIN
Looking at your lettering. Looks great. Is it to scale? Would you know what the height and width of the letters are on the full size Waco. I need to find out as I am at that stage on my plane.
ERROL LEVIN
10-31-2014, 05:48 AM
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Errol,
All I did was order from Kirbys Kustom Graphics. www.kirbysgraphics.com. 513-932-2422 Ohio, USA. He had a catalog online and I found a 1/3 YMF I liked. He made proof copies so changes in size could be made. Good guy and fast turnaround.
On the full scale, I have no info other than attached photos from Oshkosh this summer.
Regards,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood# 132
All I did was order from Kirbys Kustom Graphics. www.kirbysgraphics.com. 513-932-2422 Ohio, USA. He had a catalog online and I found a 1/3 YMF I liked. He made proof copies so changes in size could be made. Good guy and fast turnaround.
On the full scale, I have no info other than attached photos from Oshkosh this summer.
Regards,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood# 132