WACO YMF
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I have a Waco YMF-5 89" Wing Span. Fuselage and wings are completed. Plane is not assembled yet. Do not have plans and trying to figure out where all the little metal plates about 3/4 x 2" are supposed to be put at. The builder who started the plane is deceased. Any body want to offer some help?
is this the Barth kit? If so how many of these metal pieces do you have? I have a friend that has the Barth kit I can ask.
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Hi All:
I need a little help with the sheeting configuration on the trailing edge bottom of the center section of the top wing for the 1/6 scale Waco Pica kit. Based on the rib contours this appears to me to be a compound curved sheeting arrangement, but if someone could please post a picture of this section I think it would help clarify it for me.
Thanks in advance for the help.
I need a little help with the sheeting configuration on the trailing edge bottom of the center section of the top wing for the 1/6 scale Waco Pica kit. Based on the rib contours this appears to me to be a compound curved sheeting arrangement, but if someone could please post a picture of this section I think it would help clarify it for me.
Thanks in advance for the help.
as soon as I get my computer set back up I'll see if I can find some pictures that may help.
Join Date: Jan 2009
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wood 1 clock if your dealing with a Barth kit it's 1/4 scale and from what your describing they may be the plates about 24 of them, for the wing and cabaine struts, if you can take some photos and post them i can better help. If it is a barth i may be able to supply you with a set of really beat up plans and an instruction book- all hinges on IF-.
regards
Chris Melhus ceije196
regards
Chris Melhus ceije196
My Feedback: (48)
I have a Waco YMF-5 89" Wing Span. Fuselage and wings are completed. Plane is not assembled yet. Do not have plans and trying to figure out where all the little metal plates about 3/4 x 2" are supposed to be put at. The builder who started the plane is deceased. Any body want to offer some help?
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I have been told that it was a Pepino plan. I have decided that the plates were hatch covers for flying wires. Does the barth plan show detail on hooking up the wires?
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No progress as the Waco is in hiding till the spring, but did get to fly the snowblower earlier this week
Cannot really complain. Nothing like last winter.
Cannot really complain. Nothing like last winter.
A very late Happy New Year to all in the Brotherhood! This is the first post I have received in a long time. Hopefully, I'll continue to receive them.
Does anyone here have any experience with the Cline regulator on the O.S. Gemini 1.60? I know Bill does, but apparently he is not monitoring the forum very often. My question is: Does it require fuel tank pressure to operate? It will be difficult to pressurize the tank with dual exhaust and no mufflers.
Joe
Does anyone here have any experience with the Cline regulator on the O.S. Gemini 1.60? I know Bill does, but apparently he is not monitoring the forum very often. My question is: Does it require fuel tank pressure to operate? It will be difficult to pressurize the tank with dual exhaust and no mufflers.
Joe
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I don't have any experience with the Cline regulator but I'm surprised to hear you need one with your OS Gemini 1.60. I have several OS and Magnum 1.60s and have never needed a regulator. They run like typical OS engines (great) but do want muffler pressure.
Mine have exhaust extension pipes made from a piece of slip-fit K&S brass tubing. To make a pressure tap, I take a short piece of 1/16" K&S brass tube, cut one end on a 45 degree angle, bend the other end to an "L" (or thereabouts), and solder on a sliver of brass tubing one size up to serve as a fuel barb. I then drill one of the exhaust pipes to barely accept the 1/16" brass, insert it half way into the exhaust pipe with the slanted part facing the engine exhaust port, and secure it on the outside with a good blob of 24-hr JB Weld. Just make sure the brass parts are well cleaned and scuffed up first. You can also solder on another sleeve of brass to limit the depth of insertion and give a little more material for the JB Weld to bite into. Haven't had one come loose yet. Just handle gently when putting on or removing the vent line to the tank.
Mine have exhaust extension pipes made from a piece of slip-fit K&S brass tubing. To make a pressure tap, I take a short piece of 1/16" K&S brass tube, cut one end on a 45 degree angle, bend the other end to an "L" (or thereabouts), and solder on a sliver of brass tubing one size up to serve as a fuel barb. I then drill one of the exhaust pipes to barely accept the 1/16" brass, insert it half way into the exhaust pipe with the slanted part facing the engine exhaust port, and secure it on the outside with a good blob of 24-hr JB Weld. Just make sure the brass parts are well cleaned and scuffed up first. You can also solder on another sleeve of brass to limit the depth of insertion and give a little more material for the JB Weld to bite into. Haven't had one come loose yet. Just handle gently when putting on or removing the vent line to the tank.
RBACONS,
Thanks for your comments. Actually, it was Bill Hurt who recommended that I use the Cline regulator with the 1.60. . I was hoping he might respond, but understand he is having health issues. I have run the engine on a bench stand, and it ran great with a nice low idle. In the model, I kept having issues with one cylinder dropping off and needing the glow relit. I realize that is not usually a fuel supply issue, and I'm working on that. I do have onboard glow, but it's a custom design and did not allow for the 6 amp load of two OS F type plugs. It got very hot very fast, so we're re-working that.
I did find a Cline regulator on EBay and it mentions needing a minimum of two psi tank pressure to operate correctly. Apparently, it may also be necessary to choke the engine to prime the regulator, and that will be a problem as there is no way to reach the carb intake with the cowl on the WACO, and my engine (bought on EBay- supposedly New In Box- but wasn't) didn't come with a choke. I think I may also have to look into that.
Problem solving is part of this hobby. I guess you could call it engineering, huh?
Joe
Thanks for your comments. Actually, it was Bill Hurt who recommended that I use the Cline regulator with the 1.60. . I was hoping he might respond, but understand he is having health issues. I have run the engine on a bench stand, and it ran great with a nice low idle. In the model, I kept having issues with one cylinder dropping off and needing the glow relit. I realize that is not usually a fuel supply issue, and I'm working on that. I do have onboard glow, but it's a custom design and did not allow for the 6 amp load of two OS F type plugs. It got very hot very fast, so we're re-working that.
I did find a Cline regulator on EBay and it mentions needing a minimum of two psi tank pressure to operate correctly. Apparently, it may also be necessary to choke the engine to prime the regulator, and that will be a problem as there is no way to reach the carb intake with the cowl on the WACO, and my engine (bought on EBay- supposedly New In Box- but wasn't) didn't come with a choke. I think I may also have to look into that.
Problem solving is part of this hobby. I guess you could call it engineering, huh?
Joe
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cape canaveral, FL
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Wood1clock, if you provide me with a Fax # i can send you an instruction booklet for the Barth 1/4, in it you can see where all the flying wires go and you can adjust accordingly also you will have a better idea if it is a Pepino or a Barth.
regards
Chris Melhus ceij196
regards
Chris Melhus ceij196
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
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Hey guys, just got a DA-150 for my 1/3 Barth Waco. I pulled the old brison 6.4 off and saw it was set 0-0. I was going to follow suit building the new motorbox. I fly a 1/3 super cub at 0-0 without issue.
I know instructions call for 2 deg of right thrust, is it flyable without? I can go either way, but if it's just for people that have trouble with the left stick, I might stick with 0-0. What's Bill think? ;-)
I know instructions call for 2 deg of right thrust, is it flyable without? I can go either way, but if it's just for people that have trouble with the left stick, I might stick with 0-0. What's Bill think? ;-)
Last edited by codiddley; 01-20-2015 at 06:45 PM.
Nice Solo Prop, I am jealous.
I set my AMR 33% to the recommended 2 deg right and 1 deg down thrust. My plane does track well thru loops and does not climb excessively under full power. Most of my planes are set at 0-0 and fly just fine including my 1/3 Cub. I think the WACO would be fine with 0-0 as well. Even with the right thrust built in it will snap right if you are not very easy with the throttle and on your toes with the rudder. These big engines and props produce a lot of torque.
Later!!
Anthony
I set my AMR 33% to the recommended 2 deg right and 1 deg down thrust. My plane does track well thru loops and does not climb excessively under full power. Most of my planes are set at 0-0 and fly just fine including my 1/3 Cub. I think the WACO would be fine with 0-0 as well. Even with the right thrust built in it will snap right if you are not very easy with the throttle and on your toes with the rudder. These big engines and props produce a lot of torque.
Later!!
Anthony
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Guelph, ON, CANADA
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I haven't been on here in quite awhile but thought I would drop in and see what was going on.
I am also wondering what the going price is these days for a New in Box Pica Waco kit? Someone is interested in a kit that I have and I am trying to figure out what it is worth. The last I am aware of they were going for around $350 USD.
Thanks,
Chris
WB #133
I am also wondering what the going price is these days for a New in Box Pica Waco kit? Someone is interested in a kit that I have and I am trying to figure out what it is worth. The last I am aware of they were going for around $350 USD.
Thanks,
Chris
WB #133
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Solo prop, and brison 6.4 are for sale as a set. Engine has almost zero time, plugs are barely ambered, and you can still see aluminum shine on piston tops and inside exhaust. Comes with CH ignition. Engine has never seen ethanol fuel judging by the pliability of the tygon in the old tank. Perfect engine for a large scal application! Asking $400 with prop.
That is a good deal but it is a little big for my project. I need a 70-80cc twin with a 24" prop.
I am sure you will have no trouble getting a buyer. The prop alone is worth over half of that.
Later!!
Anthony
I am sure you will have no trouble getting a buyer. The prop alone is worth over half of that.
Later!!
Anthony
Join Date: Nov 2004
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Anthony,
I have a Brison 78 cc twin that I used to have on a 8" wingspan Super Lazy Ace. I changed the ignition on it and, not being an engine guy, I have struggled to get it working properly since. The engine is fine it just needs someone with more knowledge than me in this area to get it going. If this might be of interest to you let me know.
Chris
I have a Brison 78 cc twin that I used to have on a 8" wingspan Super Lazy Ace. I changed the ignition on it and, not being an engine guy, I have struggled to get it working properly since. The engine is fine it just needs someone with more knowledge than me in this area to get it going. If this might be of interest to you let me know.
Chris