WACO YMF
tmac48.
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Just gotta share this with someone: I've always used heat shrink film materials to cover planes, but now that I've got a Pica WACO kit on my schedule, I decided to check out better options. I bought SIG Koverall by mail order from SIG, and nitrate dope from a British company, and today I used it for the first time, on a small "wing" I put together just as a test vehicle.
I'll never use anything else again!
Seriously: this material is so easy to use, so easy to work around compound curves, and the result just so much prettier than I'm used to! My WACO will most definitely be covered with SIG Koverall -- I just have to finish a couple of other planes first, including a Lanyu 1:4 scale Schempp-Hirth Minimoa that I'm refurbishing after a previous owner damaged it. I've stripped off all the plastic, and after I've repaired the damage and rebuilt it slightly more to scale than the original, it's definitely getting Koveralled!
I'll never use anything else again!
Seriously: this material is so easy to use, so easy to work around compound curves, and the result just so much prettier than I'm used to! My WACO will most definitely be covered with SIG Koverall -- I just have to finish a couple of other planes first, including a Lanyu 1:4 scale Schempp-Hirth Minimoa that I'm refurbishing after a previous owner damaged it. I've stripped off all the plastic, and after I've repaired the damage and rebuilt it slightly more to scale than the original, it's definitely getting Koveralled!
Last edited by tih; 04-23-2016 at 12:50 PM. Reason: I misnamed the Minimoa manufacturer
My Feedback: (48)
Just gotta share this with someone: I've always used heat shrink film materials to cover planes, but now that I've got a Pica WACO kit on my schedule, I decided to check out better options. I bought SIG Koverall by mail order from SIG, and nitrate dope from a British company, and today I used it for the first time, on a small "wing" I put together just as a test vehicle.
I'll never use anything else again!
Seriously: this material is so easy to use, so easy to work around compound curves, and the result just so much prettier than I'm used to! My WACO will most definitely be covered with SIG Koverall -- I just have to finish a couple of other planes first, including a Lanyu 1:4 scale Schempp-Hirth Minimoa that I'm refurbishing after a previous owner damaged it. I've stripped off all the plastic, and after I've repaired the damage and rebuilt it slightly more to scale than the original, it's definitely getting Koveralled!
I'll never use anything else again!
Seriously: this material is so easy to use, so easy to work around compound curves, and the result just so much prettier than I'm used to! My WACO will most definitely be covered with SIG Koverall -- I just have to finish a couple of other planes first, including a Lanyu 1:4 scale Schempp-Hirth Minimoa that I'm refurbishing after a previous owner damaged it. I've stripped off all the plastic, and after I've repaired the damage and rebuilt it slightly more to scale than the original, it's definitely getting Koveralled!
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That sucks, Bill. Good thing you've got Janelle, though. Hope your health improves!
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Once you shrink it, if you brush on a couple heavy coats of clear dope, it locks the shrink into the fibers, and it will NEVER loosen up in the heat.
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Don that's good to know about the dope I will sure try it the next time I use Solartex. What kind of dope do you use?
I used Koverall on my Waco, and it does look great. I used the Coverite on the frame and ironed it down first. It does do compound curves great. My only complaint it that it takes a LOT of dope to fill the weave prior to your color. Someone on this forum (it may have been Bill, I'm not sure about that) suggested using water based Poly to fill the fabric, as it fills much faster.
It does that very well, but has one drawback. You can't put dope over the Poly. I solved that by giving the model a light coat of Klass Kote epoxy primer. Then I used Klass Kote for my colors, which are red, and cream. I'm not completely satisfied with the results, which are my fault. Depending on your colors, you should make sure you have a good base coat that blocks sunlight from coming through the open framed areas. By trying to keep the weight down on my finish, I didn't use enough of the primer to block the light as I was just trying to use enough to have good adhesion for my color. Second, I didn't use enough red or cream either. It looks great until it out in the sun, and then you can see the framework through the finish,
My next project that has a fabric covering will be covered with silver Solartex and doped after it is heat shrunk. THEN I'll take it outdoors to see if the frame shows thru in the sun. If it does I'll use a coat or two of silver. As you know, silver is used on all (I think) full scale fabric covered planes to block the UV from the fabric. Hey, i guess it works.
You can see what I mean in the verticle Stab in my photo.
It does that very well, but has one drawback. You can't put dope over the Poly. I solved that by giving the model a light coat of Klass Kote epoxy primer. Then I used Klass Kote for my colors, which are red, and cream. I'm not completely satisfied with the results, which are my fault. Depending on your colors, you should make sure you have a good base coat that blocks sunlight from coming through the open framed areas. By trying to keep the weight down on my finish, I didn't use enough of the primer to block the light as I was just trying to use enough to have good adhesion for my color. Second, I didn't use enough red or cream either. It looks great until it out in the sun, and then you can see the framework through the finish,
My next project that has a fabric covering will be covered with silver Solartex and doped after it is heat shrunk. THEN I'll take it outdoors to see if the frame shows thru in the sun. If it does I'll use a coat or two of silver. As you know, silver is used on all (I think) full scale fabric covered planes to block the UV from the fabric. Hey, i guess it works.
You can see what I mean in the verticle Stab in my photo.
Thread Starter
It was me. I use the polyacrylic to fill the weave. I don't use dope after that. I apply primer and after sanding, automotive finishes. Normally single stage acrylic enamel but I've also used base coat/clear coat. Adds weight quickly though.
Thanks Dan for making my tip bows and cutting the dihedral braces/wing joiners.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Thanks Dan for making my tip bows and cutting the dihedral braces/wing joiners.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
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This is a great product, and it's the same clear Nitrate they use on full scale.
Thread Starter
Dan, I only got 4 dihedral braces/joiners from you. They are the tall ones. Aren't there supposed to be 4 that are shorter in height?
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
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Bill look around your shop I thought I gave them to you with the ribs if not I will get them cut and put im the mail
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Tank Hatch
Finall got the hatch done for the tank, its 4"x 5" in size and the hatch cover is 1/8" balsa with a 1/64" plywood skin,
my previous Waco didn't have anything in the way of an access, and wouldn't you know I'd have a tank issue, ready to final sand, and onto covering,
I guess its safe to say I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
my previous Waco didn't have anything in the way of an access, and wouldn't you know I'd have a tank issue, ready to final sand, and onto covering,
I guess its safe to say I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
Last edited by ctflyboy; 05-11-2016 at 01:28 PM.
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My Feedback: (48)
Finall got the hatch done for the tank, its 4"x 5" in size and the hatch cover is 1/8" balsa with a 1/64" plywood skin,
my previous Waco didn't have anything in the way of an access, and wouldn't you know I'd have a tank issue, ready to final sand, and onto covering,
I guess its safe to say I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
my previous Waco didn't have anything in the way of an access, and wouldn't you know I'd have a tank issue, ready to final sand, and onto covering,
I guess its safe to say I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
My Feedback: (48)