flyingagin

Real bummer about the GL But thank GOD the pilot and passenger were not hurt.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

+1!

flyingagin

OK here is a real scary thought:
I'm Back

I have a work spot set up after putting my desk on rollers. Not something you want to see, cause I just ended up going for JUST MAKE IT WORK. Bolted two 2x4s to the sides at the bottoms with castors mounted to the 2x4s. I can always remove the 2x4s and fill the 1/2" holes with oak dowels. So at least it is a usable building surface now. Never did get the work bench fully finished. Funds and I really need to lop about 3 feet of the end. I need that room for a rolling toll stand for my work bench top tools.

But any way I did some work for the G.L. today.

I cut the 1/16" laminate pieces for the stab T.E. There are 6 layers as it is 3/8x3/8.
I got a little fancy with the front two laminate layers.
The front piece is two pieces of Bass scarf jointed in the middle.
The next layer is a piece of Bass in the middle and the the outer part is Balsa scarfed to the bass.
Then the next four layers are Balsa.

Should be a strong, very stiff T.E. but I still controlled the weight, at the expense of more work. Extra work does not matter to me in the slightest.

Next up, glue up the laminates.



I did not have materials last month to construct with so I made up some wing rib templates for three other planes.
An extended wing for my Kadet SR. It will use a joiner at the bottom of the fuse to make the plane a low wing with each wing panel 51" long. Flaps and barn door ailerons. It should really float.
Another set of templates for a Ugly Stick 60.
And on last set for a Touchdown MK ll (MK 2)


Ken

flyingagin

The two strips that are scarf jointed are now epoxied together. Just a little smidgen on the joints. And they are blocked against a 4 foot square. (Two 24 inch strips after joining).


I hope to laminate all the strips up tomorrow. We will see. I got to fix the stinking dishwasher. Ya know how those 2 hour jobs take all darn day.


Ken

stevegauth30

Glad to see your back at it ken.

flyingagin

Thanks Steve
It sure feels great. Not looking forward to fixing the stinking dish washer first after church. But I will find the time later to lam up my parts.

I pulled the 2 strips that have the scarf joints. Man are they strong joints. And the cool beans thing is they will be reinforced for free as regards wight and material.

Ken

flyingagin

The T.E. is laminated up. The camera is not working real good lately. It is having trouble metering. I took about 6 shots to get this one and it is not very good.
The actual laminated piece does not show up well, but it shows the magnets and level real good

It only took maybe 15 minutes to lam up. Took an hour or two to cut the strips and scarf cuts.
I lightly paper towed Canola oil as release agent on the level and also on the aluminum foil I had laid on top of my magnet board.

Now to wait about 24 hours, Dang the wait. I wanna look at it.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Ken, its good to see you are back at it with everything going on right now. I hope you got the dishwasher working to save you from dishpan hands!

flyingagin

Hi Mike. Oh yeah it is good to cut wood and glue it up.
No I did not work on the dishwasher yesterday. Went over to a friend's house after church and ate lots of smoked pig. It was appropriate that it was pig 'cause I ate like a pig.

I pulled the laminated T.E. off the board.
Dead on straight front to back, but I have a bow bottom to top 1/8' over the 24" span..
I do not understand it. I am missing something.
HELP
I can try to steam it and straighten it I guess, but will that affect the Titebond 2?
I have more 3/8"strips of Bass, more sheets of balsa
Can't buy more Bass till payday 2 1/2 weeks to make wider strips.


The warp is on the side that was clamped down to my board. It warped away from the table. The side that were up against the level and magnets are absolutely dead on. So it is the edge grain direction that warped.


Do I need standoffs under the end grain edge when clamping and drying?


Ken

flyingagin

I said the heck with it. I have nothing to loose. Steam it.
No steam box yet, so I just did it the way I did the other parts I steamed.
Even though it was much thicker, it would yield fairly quickly.
I managed to remove the warp. My piece is now very close to dead on straight.
And I hit it with a sanding block.

I can now use the piece, with complete comfort in it.

So full steam ahead............................................. ...............................sorry just could not help it.

I obviously need to improve my laminating methods.

Stand offs on the bottom to control moister from the glue?
Make the parts markedly thicker and then mill them down some how.
E.J. I bet you have some thoughts on this.

I only have to steam one more time and that only if I change to a big tail (vert fin)., and if I leave it as a '28, no more steaming.
But I want to make more laminated spars, LEs, and T.E.s for some other planes, plus bend some 1/8 D tube sheeting for an ugly stick 60. So I am going to have to build a steam box.

But at least I can keep working.

Ken

flyingagin

Stab is coming together since I was able to steam the T.E. back true. Sure wish I had known about steaming before. I have fought and argued and LOST with wood so many times.

There are more ribs to instal. I have to rip a piece of stock down as I used all of my 3/8"x1/4". The end ribs go at at angle and my plans don't show that, but I have some other plans I can refer to.
Speaking of ripping. I also did not have any 3/8' square stock. I used my real old baby sa, a 4" Dremel table saw. I just used a different fence and checked it a few times.
That actually may be a good way to build laminated parts. Build them taller than needed and the rip 'em down. Might be able to do a whole set of spars in on shot that way.

Now a store run and cook super. It is also get way to stinking hot out there in the garage.

My camera is not working right so this as good as I can do

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Ken, when you clamped the laminated pieces together were you clamping the entire length or just the ends? I was thinking if it was at the ends that may have caused the warp. I usually place a board or equivalent over the whole thing and weight it to keep from getting a warp. Can't get the "why" out of my head for the warp.

flyingagin

Mike, The strips were laid out vertical. I used my 4' aluminum level as the backing for the front of the T.E (the side with the Bass strips). I used my magnetic board as the bottom, and a bunch of magnets opposite of the level to clamp the strips to against the level. So really the bottom was not able to breath like the top, and it was in that direction that the warp was. When I pulled the part off the board it was bowing away from the board.

So next time I got to let it breath all the way around the part. Bunches of stand-offs.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Ken!

flyingagin

Mike to further expand on what I said above (a rather windy feller aren't I?), The bottom of the peice still was slightly wet yet, so that may have a lot to with the bowing. But I only needed a few minutes of steam in the right places to resolve the issue.

Like E.J. has said use stand-offs so the piece can breath all the way around.

Gee I have been build from kits and scratch since I was in my early teens. Thought I knew a lot bout building model planes. I am discovering I know very little. but at least I can be edumacated. Sometimes needs a 2x4 or iron skillet up side the head according to the wife.

Ken

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hey, I have been in and out of this hobby since I was 10 and I am still learning new things!

flyingagin

The new stab and elevator are fully framed and gusseted. I need to add the center section 3/8"s sheet. That will wait till I buy some stock for the part, payday. Grain aligned along the span of the stab. The plans had it aligned fore and aft. I have seen it done that way on arfs, and I fail to see how it helps much structurally. It is not going to bend up and down. If it did you got one heck of a weak fuse back there. But aligned span wise it gives some extra rigidity right where it really counts, right where all the loads are concentrated.
It may not matter and my thinking may be completely wrong. ya'all welcome to chime in with your thoughts.

Anyway I also radiused the gussets attempting to cut a few grams out of the tail end. I may not have removed much weight, but I think it looks cool. But when skin on no one will know.

The camera is not working right. So this is the best I can offer. It maybe some time before I can replace it. So my apologies for the lousy pictures. I shot and shot and shot in different light and settings. This is the most usable of all of those.

Ken

TomCrump

Nice work !

I don't usually bother to gussett those pieces, but that's me.

flyingagin

Thanks Tom. I take it you don't have a problem with the butt joints?
I would be afraid those butt joints might fail with out the gussets. I may try biscuits in the future. Sounds like a lot less work IF you can find a way to crank out the 1/64 ply biscuits.

I have to spend some time on my littl CL bi plane this week. I can't finish it, but the annual RingMAster flathon is next month and only an hour away. Thru several forums and FB I know and am friends with some that will be there. It will be nice to actually meet them person.

Ken

skylark-flier

Geez man, those are almost too nice to cover - y'might wanna think about just finishing her as a skeleton and building another from scratch to fly.







Just kidding.




Really, it really is quite a piece of craftsmanship. Nicely done!!!

flyingagin

hahaha What ever it is you been smoking you should share

Thanks Dave They were butt ugly before taking the dremel to 'em. Not that it would have mattered in the end.

Ken

TomCrump

It's all tail weight, Ken. My models seldom require tail weight..

Depending on the design, I sometimes add a gusset at the stab/elevator tips. That's about it.

flyingagin

I 100% agree Tom "It's all tail weight" So I removed at least halve of the gusset weight. I could not find my small drum sander for the dremel or I would have gotten a bit more off.
I made way oversize just so I could handle them, and at that I was struggling. It was kind of arguing with my hands and fingers "come guys I know you can hold that ,get your crap in one sock" So I made oversize and sand them down.

Tom a question if I may. is there anything you do to insure the butt joints don't fail? As I recall you use mostly CA. I use mostly Tightbond 2

Ken

It is fun to be working on this plane again

stevegauth30

Ken, as long as your joints are tight, your good. I haven't had any butt joints fail. And I don't use a lot of gussets. I also use mostly tite bond.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Isn't it ironic we want our airplane joints tight and our finger joints loose so we can make the tight joints?