RE: WACO YMF
 

There goes my index.

Question. Regarding the ailerons, Were they covered with fabric or aluminum? There is a picture some where here showing rivets at the edges.

The connecting rod moving the upper aileron from the lower aileron, what were they made of? wood ?

Angel
B 58

RE: WACO YMF
 

Angel,

The ailerons are all aluminum, 34 ribs and 35 flats riveted together. The connecting rod is a metal tube (round or streamlined) with adjustable bolt on ball links on each end.

P1 Lower end of connecting rod (round tube), upper end the same
P2 Top view of aileron
P3 Front view of aileron, note slight curve on top,near the tip, more curve on bottom. Curve on bottom starts half way between the last 2 W-6 ribs, making the last W-6 shallower at the trailing edge. This does form wash out at the tip. Top curve starts between the last W-6 and W-7. Full size W-7 was about a 1/4" lower than W-6 and W-8 was about 5/8" lower along the high point of the ribs (top spar area).
P4 Tip showing wash out
P5 Upper end of connectig rod, note the top end is closer to the trailing edge than the lower end.
P6 End view of connecting rod (streamlined tube) showing rod lower mount through bolted. Upper mount is reversed.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Thank you John,

I also learned not to hit send twice fast.

I apreciate the pictures and your description, I was thinking that maybe back in the 1930"s when the airplane was designed they were covering control surfaces with fabric, so no use for rivets.

Thank you.

Angel

RE: WACO YMF
 

Good grief.....Can't they leave the number of posts per page alone? How are we supposed to have an index that works?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Jim,
Yes, I just opened the eye of the hook and cut the other end off. I use a small drop of medium CA to hold the hook in the wood. I fabicated the hooks on the Stearman out of "T" pins, but the dress hooks work as well if not better and are easier to make up.
If you still have questions, drop me a PM.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Thanks Jim. I get it now. A simple idea that I will try.

RE: WACO YMF
 

I got a call from Brad this afternoon, concerning the cowl. He is beginning to work on the mold, and he took my order. Looks like we might see the first of these a little sooner that we originally thought. I tried to get him to cut us some slack on the price, but It ain't gonna happen. $57.95....that's the price. Of course there is no one else doing this cowl, so I guess it's a bargain at that. I can't wait to get mine.

I sanded the engine this evening, and shot the silver on for a base color, and for the cylinder heads. I built the ignition conduit, and have the wiring installed in the tube. I still need to do the pushrod tubes, and detail paint the engine. Does anyone have a straight on photo of the engine data plate? Do you, John? If I can get one, I will size it accordingly, and transfer it to an aluminum plate that will be fixed to the crankcase.


Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Gentlemen,

Thank you for the membership. Having all of you scratch builders out there to ask questions to is an amazing reference library. I have to say that as far as model building I will try to contribute as I am able but face it I'm the probie here. I am a construction master craftsman and where it has to do with construction, especially floor covering, ceramic tile and architectural stone I am happy to return the favors by helping anyone in the brotherhood with questions or problems in this department. I own my own comercial interiors company from being in the building trades since childhood. That was the other thing that senior left me. The trade knowledge not the company.

Since we want to keep the forum directed at our hobby and not work if anyone has any questions feel free to send me private messages. I can sell and ship material anywhere in the country but can just as easily let you know what the wholesale price is and send you to the proper location in your home town. If for any reasons you can not find material at a cut rate price I am happy to sell you material at 10% over my cost. If you have all the info and prices most dealers will agree to sell you material at this type of a markup. Since I believe that stickbuilder works for a chevy dealer I am sure he will attest to that.

Thank you all in advance for your help. I have a million questions but will try to stretch them out over the span of time. If you need flooring go to the website below. We are in the process of signing up as a dealer with this vendor. We can already buy the material but are waiting to be approved and added to the retail locator on their website. Carpet tile is the newest hot item in our business and this site is directed at residential products.

Let me know if I can help you out in return for the help you will be to me..

http://www.flor.com/

Ben
AMA 9037
Brotherhood #74

RE: WACO YMF
 

Ben, that's a very nice gesture. Don't worry about asking questions, and the more, the better. We will get you addicted to the WACO's if it kills us:D. That is one of the best things about the Brotherhood. You can find out just about anything that you want to concerning these old Rag Bags in here. Waco Joe, and I both belong to the National Waco Owner's Club, and we can con (oops) talk the guys with the big ones into giving the super secret information to us to use on the models. You will find that Skylarkmk1 is a walking encyclopedia on the WACO name brand. If he does not know the answer, it probably isn't worth knowing. We have members from around the world, and the amount of knowledge available here staggers my imagination. Have fun, and enjoy.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

I have a burning question regarding plans. I'm new to building but not new to the AMA and one thing I have discovered is plans are not all created equal. I have been collecting WACO plans and unlike some of the things I have read they are not all to scale. Somewhere in the thread of this forum someone said they purchased the Platt 1/6th plan, took it to Kinkos and had it enlarged to 120% to get it to 1/5th scale. Or something there abouts.

I just purchased two sets of drawings from Vintage RC I believe, and both sets were not to scale. What is the standard manner in enlarging drawings so they are to the scale you require or desire. One of these sets came on 42" paper and enlarging them without chopping them apart is not happening. Who can give me some good answers here. I basically have figured that collecting numerous sets will give me alot of variations that I can add to any given project. Since I own a construction related company we own a plan copier that I can use to basically copy drawings until I fall over.

I am going to assume that if I purchased a set to build the real McCoy that they would not be to scale. It's not like I'm going to lay up 30 plus feet of wing on a drawing spread out with 600 rolls of wax paper. Bear with me guys I know this is a stupid question to most of you. Remember, I'm willing to work off my debt.

Thanks guys.

Ben
Brotherhood #74

RE: WACO YMF
 

I will tell you this. The plan set that the AMA sells (along with the parts templates ) is the original PICA 1/5th scale WACO YMF plan set. They are true scale outline models, and can be built into a contest winning model if you have the patience.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

Thanks for the praise, except for having access to a bunch of Wacos and mechanics/restorers at CCA; the info is there on the net if one would just take time to look. Most sources of info are listed in the resource page on the House of Moy site.

The pictures below are the best I have. The plate is hidden behind the ring and carburetor intake and below the crankcase plug, so it is a bit hard to get a “straight on” picture. You can see it’s location in the other photo I sent you. Continental engines have the plate offset to the side in a clear area that is easier to get a photo of.

P1 Brass Jacobs plate from engine on stand
P2 Aluminum Jacobs plate 275 hp, R-755
P3 Aluminum Jacobs plate 275 hp, R-755 close up.
P4 Aluminum Jacobs plate located on the engine of YKC (NC 3NX) below and behind the prop hub and behind the air intake.

RE: WACO YMF
 

John,

I think that for my purposes I can probably make tha Data plate from an old pie tin, and paint it black, and scribe the lines and some of the major info. It probably will give the illusion that something is there. It is kinda-sorta small, and it's not right out in front of you. Jay, suggested the pie pan thing, and I think it's workable. I got the cylinders painted last night, and will mix the paint for the cam/timing cover tonight. Is the teal color on the photo that you posted of the L-4 on the stand (fresh rebuild) the only color that Jacobs used, or were they color matched to the airplane?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Hello All,
What a wealth of info you guys have posted here. Would like to be a member of the WACO Brotherhood as well. Found this thread through web searches of WACO's that led me to the HOUSE OF MOY site. Then Here.
I am currently inactive at building and flying. Plan to get back to both soon. All of my planes have been kits. Albeit I am a bit of a kit "basher". Been in AMA since 1983. Currently own a (unbuilt) PICA YMF 1/6th kit that was bought way too many years ago. If IKON N'West makes the UPF7 kit available again, I will buy one.
Thanks in advance for all of the info here and for including me in on your group.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Rick,

Ken (khodges) just got a UPF-7 kit from Ikon a month or so ago and will probably jump in here to answer your questions a bit more in depth. It can't hurt to give Ikon a call to find out avaiability.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

All of the Jacobs (and Continentals) I have seen have been a Battleship Grey (in your case Sub Grey:D) and none were freshly rebuilt, some were just well maintained. The one that was posted that has a "teal" or blue color was a photo from the net and has the look that it was taken under fluorescent lights which does weird things to color photos unless corrected. All the crank case paint has been glossy for ease of maintenance (wiping down oil leaks, etc). The cylinders were flat black, possibly from heat (Bottom Sections) or natural (flat) (Top or Head Sections). The lower cylinders (4 & 5) have a glossier look to them, probably from oil. The baffles have been a semi-gloss.

Go to your LHS and check out the plastic model paints. Testors Model Master Acryl Acrylics has Navy (4691), Gull (4692) and Aircraft (4693) grey in ½ oz bottles. Testors Enamels (plastic model stuff) has Grey (1138) and Flat Battle Grey (1163) in ¼ oz bottles. Give the grey paint a shot of clear gloss to fuel proof every thing (yeah, I know you are going gas in this one) and the cylinders a shot of flat clear.

P1 Overall shot of Jacobs engine, Cowl (light blue and white) in background, engine not color matched to aircraft.
P2 Overall shot taken with out flash under the Mercury Vapor lights only
P3 Number 1 Cylinder and Baffles
P4 Numbers 3 & 4 Cylinders, note glossier black on cylinder lower sections

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

For the data plate, if you have a good picture or can create the plate on the computer and the shrink it to the size needed, print it out on a clear address label, the white will be clear allowing the pie plate aluminum to show through. Also works for Aircraft Data plates, Instument panel labels etc. Saw this idea on another site some where.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Hey guys:

Check out E-Bay item # 26017406615, look at those moulded corrugated ailerons. Looks like someone was making them commercially, sure would be nice to find out who and maybe get them back into production..

r/c john

RE: WACO YMF
 

r/c John,

The ebay number does not work.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

Follow up on Data Plate. Using MS Paint I made this plate in about 20 minutes (need more info to complete, I’ll get it this weekend).

1. Draw a Box of the appropriate size (height vs width). You can resize it later.
2. Fill with Black
3. Draw the outline with white using the line function
4. Draw the rivet corners with the circle function
5. Add the clear letters using Arial Black type, color white, no underline and no (clear) background setting.
6. Add the black letters with clear background using black with the back ground setting. Add at least one space before typing. Change type to look like hand stamping (Courier New is very close in look). (I didn't do that in this test)
7. Print on clear label stock using no centering and adjust percentage. (This was 20% of the full size drawing)
8. Cut out along white line and apply to aluminum pie plate or foil.
9. Spray with clear coat in light mist coats. I used Krylon Crystal Clear for this test. The clear coat has to fill in the frosting before the background color comes thru.

The clear labels I used were frosted and showed white before spraying with clear. I applied the label to the dull side of the aluminum foil. Once sprayed, the aluminum color came through and looks pretty good (photo didn’t show well).

P1 Data Plate with labels used and scale
P2 Data Plate before clear was applied. This plate measures about 1-1/8” x 1-7/8”
P3 Data Plate after clear was applied (picture is a little fuzy). Compare to full size plate in previous post 4107.

RE: WACO YMF
 

John,

you bring me to an idea, do you have a pic, where the data plate in the rear fuselage is to see? I have one,
but the resolution is too small. Look here:

Bernie

RE: WACO YMF
 

skylark:

My mistake f\lefy out one number the correct number should be 260174906615; Tried it and it worked.

r/c John

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bernie,

Here you go;

P1 Original Type plate
P2 New WACO Classic Aircraft plate on YMF Classic NC 14081 (hey its only 20 years old, wear is normal)

RE: WACO YMF
 

Rick,

Welcome Brother #75, and I hope you continue to have fun with it. Look back on page 165 and you will find the new (amended again and again) roster.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

FWIW I just noticed that the Jacobs engine mounted in the YKC has a darker grey paint then the one on the hoist. I think the lighter color is the more common one.