RE: WACO YMF
 

We airmen (USAF) appreicate it to! :D

RE: WACO YMF
 

Oops.....don't know how I missed the airmen...[:-] Dad was one from 1925 to 1959. Sorry, and thanks for your service. (guess it was cause the USAF started as US Army. (that's my excuse, and I'm stickin to it)

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Tony, you can download a Waco logo here. http://www.gmkfreelogos.com/

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bob

No but thank you. I have two that I am trying to use..Post 4352 P-1, or Post 4359 P-1 from you...

RE: WACO YMF
 

How do you open an EPS file??

RE: WACO YMF
 

Sorry - Found it using Acrobat. That's a beautiful rendition of the logo! I also included my change for the Waco Classic!

RE: WACO YMF
 

According to the manual that came with the engine, if I use Fuji's brand of oil, then I'm supposed to break it in at 50:1 for the first gallon, then 100:1 for the second gallon, then I can go to 150:1, unless the engine has limited cooling (such as a close cowl), then stay at 100:1.

If I use anything other than Fuji oil, I'm supposed to start at 25:1 for the first gallon, then go to 40:1. The manual expressly states NOT to use the lean ratios with any oil other than Fuji.

So--if I want to maintain my warranty, I'm supposed to stay at the oil-rich ratios, at least through break-in. I figure it won't hurt anything to go rich for at least another tank or two, but I honestly think the engine won't run well unless I seriously lean the oil mix, so I agree with you about the performance being affected by the overly rich ratio. I also agree that you don't get any better than the Amsoil, can't imagine Fuji's oil being much different, or any better. I'll lean it out to about 75:1 and see how it does, but I won't go any leaner than 100:1, as that is what the Amsoil is rated for.

From what I could tell, the Fuji ought to stand this plane on its tail at anything over 2/3 throttle. It weighs out at 18 pounds, just slightly less than my Waco (but the drag should be light years less.)

RE: WACO YMF
 

That's right on the money, the Classic has its own logo. I wish it was straight on , but you can tell:

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,
I know they don't have it listed in their catalog, but give them a call and I'm sure the will come up with something. They have even custom made mufflers for me at no additional charge. I have a RCS 140 with rear exhaust that normally would have a long header and they made a compact inverted muffler very similar to a Zenoah G-38. With the front carb and rear exhaust I was able to keep everything inside the cowl on my Tiger Moth. After you talk to them they will tell you to make a drawing and they will dupicate it. With the mail the way it is it usually takes 3 to 4 weeks from the first time you call.

RE: WACO YMF
 

I got it from the Barth build - Page 1 Post #16. I too think it is dead on

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,
http://www.slimlineproducts.com/ has an inverted muffler listed for the Fugi BT-32, part #2202 @ $89.95. They don't show a pucture of it but you might check with them. Usually they will give the demensions.

RE: WACO YMF
 

I've got the same manual, but (and you are right about the warranty issues with using less oil than they reccomend) have you ever tried to find the ever elusive Fuji oil. I have used amsoil for years, and have never mixed it that heavy for any engine. They may (and should) know their engine better than do I, but I think I'll still start mine off with 40:1. Did you see what I asked about the crank mod? That will, obviously, void the warranty anyway.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Daren,
Here are a few pic's of Jimmy Franklins UPF7. I found these somewhere on the www.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Tony, Jim and everyone,

Here are some more, note differences in wording (below), colors and placement.

P1 V-Fin Decal (small) on UBF-2 NC 2091K (contrast and brightness adjusted)
P2 V-Fin Decal (small) on UBA NC 12445
P3 V-Fin Decal (small) on CTO NC 280W
P4 Fuselage Logo on JYM NC 991H
P5 V-Fin/Rudder (large) on GXE N 6675K
P6 V-Fin Decal (medium) on UKC NC 14010 (small on YKS-6 NC 16246 in background)
P7 Data Plate - JYM NC 991H
P8 On fuse below rear cockpit, YMF Classic NC 14081

The Logo wording also varied; ( / means start a new line)

1 – The / WACO / Aircraft Co. / Troy, Ohio, U.S.A. (On data plate - JYM, UBF-2, small logo on v-fin – ASO, UBA, UBF-2, SRE, YKC, QCF-2, medium on v-fin - UKC, UEC, large logo on rudder/fin – GXE, small and medium size on vertical fin – UPF-7)
2 – WACO / Airplanes / Troy, Ohio, U.S.A. with "The Advance Aircraft Company" super imposed over them (Fuselage Logo on UBA, JYM, JWM, ATO, CSO, CTO)
3 – WACO / Airplanes (rudder – YKS-7 medium size)
4 – WACO / Classic / YMF-5 (medium, under rear cockpit combing on YMF Classic)
5 – WACO / Classic (decal posted by Skinny Bob)

Not all had decals in both places- example is the UBA, 1 had decals both on the fuse and v-fin, the other only had the decal on the v-fin.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Harry,

I don't think that the muffler that you are talking about wraps around the side of the engine, but rather still exhausts out the rear. I will need one that mounts to the rear of the cylinder, but has the muffler mounted on the side of the engine. Otherwise, I would need to remove a lot of the bottom of the fuselage to be able to use this engine. That plus the crankshaft protrudes back close to 2 inches beyond the case in the back. I can tear down the engine, and cut the protruding part of the crank with a lathe, and then make some new mount plates to get the mounting back to a more managable size. I don't think that they thought things through with this engine. I hope it has the power that I have read about.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

Landing lights on Wacos. Of all the open cockpit Wacos at CCA during the Fly In, only 3 had landing lights (most of the cabin models did) and all to appear to have used the Grimes Retractable Unit. The first 4 photos are of the Waco lights in the retracted position (nobody available to lower them) and you can see the position between ribs (next bay over from the aileron bellcrank). The last 4 are of the Grime unit mounted in a Cessna 195 which the owner lowered for me.

P1 On UBF-2 NC 155Y Under the left lower wing
P2 On UBF-2 NC 155Y Under the left lower wing
P3 On UBF-2 NC 2091K Under the left lower wing
P4 On UBA NC 12455 Under the RIGHT lower wing and is a smaller unit
P5 Front view on Cessna 195 N 9833A, left wing
P6 Side view on Cessna 195 N 9833A, left wing
P7 Recess Housing on Cessna 195 N 9833A, left wing. Note section of gear that raises and lowers the light, takes a few seconds to lower and does cause a bit of drag.
P8 Close up of the adjustment instructions inside the housing on Cessna 195 N 9833A, left wing

RE: WACO YMF
 

Ok guys now for a dumb question.

Are the cox ARF wheel pants and cowl fiberglass?

Are they available for purchase?

Do you know how much?

My thought is they should work for the kit version - just need refinished

Sorry if this is a redundant question

RE: WACO YMF
 

Airplanegeek,

To the best of our knowledge, the fiberglass parts have not been made available from Cox. You can purchase the cowling and wheel plants from several vendors. Try AeroFibertech, Fiberglas Specialists, and a few others. The cowls normally run about $60, and the wheel pants are just under $40 for the pair.

These will fit your kit built model far better than will the Cox parts. The bottom of the Cox cowl is somewhat flatter than the kit builds.

Give Brad at Aerotech a try. He is making a true YMF cowl at this time. Go ahead and place your order. His parts are extremely high in quality, and comparable pricewise to those that require extensive work to be usable.

We are glad you stopped by the Old Waco Home. Stop back anytime. Visitors are always welcome.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

John,

Thank you so much for taking the pics of the landing lights. I think that I can replicate that rack by using a gear rack (part of a servo gear) and make it work like it should. A mini servo with a gear set up as a rack and pinion should work to activate the lamp. Lordy, will it ever end?????[:@]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

I started working on the landing light last night. I guess I should have the wings framed up first, but I think that when I'm finished, I can build the assembly into the wing. The housing that the light fits into can be made from the end of a cigar tube ( the aluminum ones that better stogies come in ) and the lamp housing can be made from one that is just a tad smaller. I will cut the lens ring from a couple of pieces of tubing so that one will fit over the other, and make what appears to be a thicker ring to entrap the lens. It is going to be a little work, but I think it will be a neat addition. I'm going to need to mount the entire assembly to a small hatch with the servo and lamp mounted on the same piece so that the gears will remain in mesh. I'll need to limit the endpoints of the servo travel, so that it will just close the lamp, and extend it when activated. Sounds simple, but bet I'll have to do some serious engineering to get it all to work.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Yes, they are fiberglass, looks to be about 1 oz cloth from the size of the weave. I added another layer of 1/2 oz cloth inside my cowl to strengthen it and help secure my dummy engine better, and then added another piece of 1 oz cloth down in the "chin" area (where the cowl will hit if you nose over). I also did this to the forward portions of the wheel pants for the same reason.

Early on, several ARF purchasers (me included) had issues with the landing gear and wheel pant brackets, and found that Cox had NO parts support available for these planes, unless they cannibalized an unsold package (Think they'd do that and knock themselves out of a sale?) As Stickbuilder said, you're better off getting the aftermarket stuff; more accurate scale and probably no more expensive.


Bill, I think cutting off the rear of the crank won't hurt a thing (except of course the warranty) and it will simplify installation. I had to cut a hole in the face of the engine box for the shaft extension to pass through; since my fuel lines are in this area, I made a tube of phenolic (basically cardboard soaked in Ca) and epoxied it in place to the rear of the box face as a guard around the shaft. Even cutting off the shaft wouldn't really help your installation because it is a tad more than 7-1/2 inches from the face of the prop hub to the rear of the muffler, too long for the Waco (unless you cut a recess in the fuse bottom, then you run the risk of too much heat from the muffler and nowhere for it to go). The installation of this engine almost demands some kind of box extension from the firewall that the muffler can rest under. It was no problem for the Decathlon, it actually suits the model fine, but other planes, mainly those with shallow engine bays (read:Radials) would be difficult.

RE: WACO YMF
 

there........this top wing centre section should be tough enough !!

RE: WACO YMF
 

thanks guys

In the case of my great planes skybolt, i think when i need a new cowl, i'll just buy the arf cowl. but apparantly cox is not all that great with the support end of things.

RE: WACO YMF
 

If you buy a better cowl to start with, you might not need a new one, or at least not as soon. Trust me, they are made much better and stronger than the ARF versions. They will finish better as well.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

I've been working on the design for the retractable landing light tonight, and I think I have what will work figured out. There will be an old servo without any gears left, and a new little servo to drive what is left of the gear set (2 of them) from the old servo. The large gear will be cut down into what will become a rack. This rack will be attached to the landing light bucket. The mounting can will have a slot for the rack to operate through. The rack will pivot above the mounting can (up inside the wing) and the little servo will just turn a small pinion gear. When I put the horizontal stab into the take-off/landing position, the little servo will run, extending the landing light, and the illumination will operate at the same time. Moving the horizontal stab to the cruise position will cause the servo to run in the opposite direction, retracting the lamp, and turning the light off. Should be more simple than it sounds. Now I just gotta figure out which wing it will go on.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1