RE: WACO YMF
 

You could do what I did, an build Your own. I used the cylinders from a 9 cly engine, and made the rest. It was enjoyable, and seemed to work well.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Scott,
The dummy radial is what I used in my 1/5 scale Pica WACO, and I had to cut it down a lot. You may want to go to Tower Hobbies and type "dummy engine" and see what that pulls up. It was either on the Top Flite site or tower hobbies that I found several dummy engines, in various sizes, but they were molded as a solid piece, on the order of the dummy radial in the G.P. Super Stearman.

RE: WACO YMF
 

I still like the way that mine came out better than what I have seen available commercially. It may be just personal building pride, but I think it came out closer to scale. It didn't take all that long to make, and it's a lot of fun to do. It hones skills that you don't often use. You get to mate balsa with plastic, and metal, and then you get to practice your painting a little. It's fun to add the little details too, and when you are finished, it does not look like anything that is out there.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill, I wouldn't worry too much about a porky WACO. Mine is over 18 pounds and flies great. The G-26 has enough oomph to make it do whatever the full-scale will do.

RE: WACO YMF
 

I like mine; it's a bit pricey, but details nicely, and Aerotec has them in 1/6 scale. The resin casting is a tad heavy, too, if you need some nose weight it's a help, but if you're already balanced, it might create some issues.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Perhaps I can join the Waca brotherhood, as well--I know I will need you help and patience as I learn and ask questions. I just bought the partially built 1/5 Waco kit on ebay (item 110195477182). The wings need to be built and I'm not sure all the part are there,but the Zenoah p38 is already installed. From what I can see, the builder did a good job so far. I will need to learn alot to finish her. This should go well with the 1/6 scale Waco, I bought at our recent club dinner. It looks to be an original kit build that needs some work to fix. Looks like I will be busy all winter now.

RE: WACO YMF
 

khodges-

I'm guessing it could use the nose weight. When I got it, it had a K&B .61 and about a pound of lead screwed to the engine mount. I don't think the Saito weighs that much more than the K&B, although I should weigh them. I might lose a little tail weight by replacing the silk and dope with pre-colored Coverite.

Bill-

I appreciate your craftsmanship, but I'm nowhere near the point where I want to try to build my own radial. My goal is to get this thing flying, and I want to avoid any step that is going to 1) add significant time to the process or, more importantly, 2) cause me to stall out and lose interest. I'm hoping to get this done, finish a Skybolt I started two years ago and rebuild a Cub fuselage, all this winter. Knowing my track record, I'm not optimistic.

p.s. I'm just excited that I actually had something to post about, instead of just reading everyone else's stuff.:D

RE: WACO YMF
 

Kruzin55,That G 38 is one of the best eng. zenoah makes . I think it is a little much for the 1/5 Waco , mainly weight wise. A g-26 does a great job as well as a number of glow eng. just my opinion.good luck finishing her off. You have a good start.


Jacque Waco Brhd # 27

RE: WACO YMF
 

NEW BROTHER ALERT

We have a new Brother. Meet kruzin55. Welcome to the Brotherhood. You are Brother #83. Hope you have fun with it.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Hey everybody, just a few progress photos on the Pepino build.......
Scott

RE: WACO YMF
 

Stickbuilder & Skylarkmk1


Thanks for the help here is the rudder sanded down. I don't understand how the covering will look in the corners (marked by arrows) should I add a small strip of wood and sand like the rest? the plans don't show it but it look like there should be something there.

I have most of the parts cut out for the fus so wont be long I'll start on it. Have to make a decision on how to do the landing gear soon.

khodges

I'll go back and find your aluminum gear and take a good long look at it and get some advice on it.
Thanks again for all the help and count me in on tees if more are made. The mediums are getting a bit tite on me since I quite smoking (getting quite a belly)[:@][:@]

RE: WACO YMF
 

Dan,

Where you have the arrows will be tapered as well. They need to be sanded to match the profile of the vertical stab, and the bottom of the fuselage. Just make them blend to the same shape. Don't over do the sanding.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

That is a very pretty picture of the sre. my model is similar in colour except I have midnight blue where the green is. I will post pictures after processing the film.
Today was the maiden trials and am really impressed. Did lots of ground taxing and found it to be really honest. It tracks on a straight line.
After fiddling with the engine with much input from fellow flyers we got it running like a fine tunned motor.
Upon a long taxi and increasing speed it lifted oh so nicely and rose to a safe height it started to turn left in a slow turn but I coulld not correct right. It was as tho I had no right aileron. It ground tested properly but had it on low rate 3/8 inch each way. panicky I forgot about rudder. ( dumb thumbs) also forgot to shift to high rates which I would have been alright. I maNAGED TO GET IT BACK TO THE LANDING STRIP BUT COULDNOT CORRECT RIGHT. cRUNCH ON THE PAVED RUNWAY. Frustrated I began to think of all the things I could have done.
Not to be dissapointed TTTTOOOO MUCH it can be repaired and hope to have it ready for next week. Wedding anniversay is in the way for this week end,. so I have to start repair now. Got to keep the other half happy. This is my 3rd marriage and don't wan't to go thru it again.I seem to get confused as to what comes first model planes or wife. I think I know now. I always seem to come back to planes..
Cheers guys and I will continue to inform you of my WACKY WACO interests
Roger

RE: WACO YMF
 

All.

Some bad news about Lone Star Balsa, I found this info in the Scratch Building forum;

quote]ORIGINAL: paco ritter

Lone Star Balsa southeast of Dallas, TX burned yesterday, Wednesday 11/21, around 3:pm. Not sure the extent of the damage, but it don't look too good. More info here:Raw video <http://www.wfaa.com/video/?nvid=195175&shu=1>

[/quote]

Some more info can be found here;

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6662756/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6658050/tm.htm

http://www.lonestar-models.com/

RE: WACO YMF
 

Roger,

Sorry to hear about your bad luck on maiden #1 and hope you can get it repaired and the ailerons worked out. Good Luck on maiden #2.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Bill,

You're talking about the models, but that statement pretty much applies to the full scale versions also!! :)

Joe
WB #54

RE: WACO YMF
 

Joe,

That statement comes from many years of fiddling with high drag airplanes, and the WACO's qualify as such. It is not something that you come up with, but something that you have experienced.[:'(]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Kruzin,

The wheel pants that you show in the photo appear to be from Fiberglass Specialties. The number 70 that is written inside is the number for the WACO wheel pants that they offer. They are really pudgy as those from F/S are. Mine were that fat, and i sectioned a little over 1/4" from the center of the pants. It is very easy to do, and also gets rid of 90% of the voids and pin holes.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Dan,

I just noticed that on your rudder, you still need to add the bottom doublers and the trim tab pieces about halfway up the rudder trailing edge. These need to be in place, and sanded at the same time that you do the trailing edge. You can still add them, just be careful that you don't remove too much of the trailing edge when you sand them to shape.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RE: WACO YMF
 

Making more progress, finally. I cut the cowl for the valve covers on the Saito. Came out OK for a hack like me. Pics are attached. I don't know how people did it before Dremels. Actually I do know, but it would have taken five times as long.

The cowl is not quite a perfect fit, because the front end of the fuselage as built is not perfectly round. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Doesn't look too bad though. I know it is a little too long for scale, but I needed to leave it long to account for the extra length of the 4 stroke. Maybe instead of getting a dummy engine, I should just buy 6 more Saito cylinders.:D

I still need to cut the holes for the exhaust and glow plug. I'm planning to point the stock exhaust straight down, which will leave just a bit of it sticking out of the cowl. I'd like to add about a 1" extension. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to do so?

RE: WACO YMF
 

Tony,

If you have the plans for the Pica 1/5th Waco, the aileron connecting strut on the Tail Plane page is similar to the other 1930s Wacos at Creve Coeur Airport and in the HARM. I suspect that Waco Classic simplified the aileron connection strut to meet construction needs. The connections used on both the Original and Classic are identical.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Interesting article in this month's Air and Space Smithsonian about multi-winged airplanes and their lift/drag coefficients. It's called "What the Red Baron Didn't Know" and is more about the WWI planes, but addresses in part how the high pressure area under the top wing, tends to "cancel out" or decrease, the low pressure area above the bottom wing, decreasing the lift the bottom wing can make. All this while the associated drag of both wings remains the same. NACA tests done in the late 20's demonstrated that the top wing of almost any biplane makes almost 70% of the total lift; this number can be even higher dependent on the aspect ratios of the wings to each other, and the particular flight mode at any given time (airspeed, bank, and angle of attack). All I know is, when the spinny thing up front slows down, my plane turns into a semi-streamlined anvil:)

Hey, Joe, or Skylark either one, what are the dates for the '08 AWC fly-in at CCA? Is it the 2nd or 3rd weekend in June? I've got to put in for the time off this month in order to get the week I want in June.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Jag,

Straight down is pretty much the normal for both the Jacobs and Continental powered Wacos. Here are a few pictures of Full Cowl Wacos, both bump and smooth. Also take a look at the NWC site for more ideas. NC 14132 (picture 56) has a split, flared exhaust extension and NC 14687 (picture 50) has a rectangular exhaust similar to NC 14081.

P1 Cowl and rectangular exhaust on YMF Classic NC 14081 (Jacobs engine)
P2 Cowl and round exhaust on 1942 UPF-7 NC 39727 (Continental engine)
P3 Cowl and round exhaust on 1940 UPF-7 NC 173E (Continental engine)
P4 Cowl and round exhaust with chrome extensions on 1934 YKC N 3NX (Jacobs engine)

RE: WACO YMF
 

Ken and All,

In the Sept/Oct. AWC newsletter "Waco World News", page 17, The American Waco Club Fly In will be held June 18-22, 2008 at Dauster Flying Field, also known as Creve Coeur Airport. CCA is located on the west side of St. Louis, MO, about 15-20 minutes from Lambert Field if you fly to the event and the Hotel is nearby with a shuttle to and from CCA. I'll keep the Brotherhood informed of any more information as I get it.

The President of the AWC, Philip Coulson has asked me to extend an invitation for all of you to attend the Fly In (it would be nice if you could bring your planes for static display) and to submitt photos and/or articles to the AWC newsletter. Italics are my words.

RE: WACO YMF
 

Ken,

Did the Air and Space Smithsonian article mention anything about the Fokker DR1 Tri-plane that the Red Barron was famous for flying? What was the percentage of lift generated by the Top, Middle and Lower wings? Wacky Waco guys want to know :D.