axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

after about 20 flights, in a level hover the tail motor quit and the helicopter started spinning. It landed ok because it wasnt up very high. So looking at the motor, with it unsoldered and a battery hooked up to it, it wont run very well at all. WHen the collective lever is moved up, there is voltage present on the wires to the tail motor.

So now, with a new tail motor installed, it doesnt work. I dont understand how there can be voltage to the wires and the new tail motor doesnt work. Anyone have any experience like this?

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

so just to clarify, the old tail motor would not run so it was unsoldered from the helicopter. However there is voltage coming from the 3 in 1 when the collective is pushed up. Voltage was measured on a voltmeter at the tail motor wires.

When a new motor is installed and hooked up to the wires, it will not run

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

This is pretty typical for the cpv3. This is why I got rid of mine. I was spending more on tail motors than the heli was worth. The motor just gets too hot and seizes. One thing I did that made my motors last a while longer was make sure the motor cooled completely between flights.

The only thing I recommend would be to stock up on the e-flight motors

http://www.rcslot.com/mm5/merchant.m..._Code=EFLH1322

They run $7 instead of the $30 that helimax charges and are the same thing. They are also probably more readily available at your LHS

Good luck and happy flying

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

but the new tail motor isnt working either...

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

hmmm look at the LPM board (you might have to break the cable ties to split the two boards apart and see if you have any burnt marks. Guess you could smell it first to see if there is any hint of it being fried. This is a pretty common problem. If your LPM board is shot it will cost about $80 to fix it and you might be better off just buying a new heli.

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

ok thanks. looks like they are willing to replace the board free of charge

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

If you're getting a current through to the motor, then I don't think any of your electronics are at fault.  It probably comes that way, but make sure that the capacitor is properly installed onto the new motor.  I used to have a stock axe cp, and I can't remember if that made a difference or not.  Anyway, if the presence or lack of a capacitor makes no difference, then you probably have a bad motor.  You shouldn't have to pay for new tail motors; if you contact Helimax (it's either helimax or the retailer from whom you purchased the heli; I can't remember), they should send you a replacement for free.  This will impose a lot of down time upon your flying though, so if you'd rather not wait, I'd try the eflite motor option.  As far as getting a different heli, I don't know if getting a new one will solve that problem completely, as what I would find to be the major flaw in helis running their tail on a separate motor is that their tail motors all burn out eventually.  Instead of getting the e-board from a retailer, you might try e-bay for a cheaper one.  Yes, replacing the e-board is expensive, but there's virtually no helicopter that you could purchase for the price of an e-board - if there is, I would stay away from it, because chances are you'd be buying something with even more problems.

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

So was it fried? Fact that they will replace it for free that is good!!!!

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

after a couple of emails helimax seems to think its the board, and one is in the mail free of charge as of today. They are very helpful.

the new tail motor will not work when connected to the wires. But the new tail motor will run if you just hook it up to a small battery. so it does seem like its the board

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

Ah.  Well, I'm glad that you were able to sort things out.

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

I had the same thing happen today on my cpv3. What is the time frame for the waranty. Mine is less than 1 year old.

RE: axe CPv3 tail motor problems
 

Before I switched to brushless motors, here is what I learned re making the tail motors last:

1.  Break the motor in by running it before installation using two AA cells in the stock battery holder.  Just push the tail
     motor wires in between the battery terminal and the holder terminal.  Let it run for about an hour.  This will shape the
     brushes to the curve of the commutator at low current so no arcing.  Under full power the brushes will make better
     contact and last longer.

2.   Glue the two tail motors wires, after soldering, to the black end cap of the motor, with household cement.
      This keeps the wires from moving.  The wires are connected to fragile copper brackets that also hold the brushes.
      There is only a plastic "rivet" that keeps the brush holding bracket from rotating the brush away from the commutator.
       If the wires vibrate they can loosen the "rivet".  The same can happen if the motor gets too hot.  Also on some motors
      the copper brackets are so thin they become brittle on repeated cycles of heating/cooling.  They lose their
      temper and stop putting enough pressure on the brushes.

With care, and doing most piros to the left, I was able to get at least 100 good flites out of the stock motor.  This was good 
enough to keep me going until I bought a Futaba 7c and converted to brushless.

If I had it to do over again, I would buy an HK 250 or CopterX 250 and a radio.  The HK radios are  good enough and they
are inexpensive.  I've just started flying a 250.  It is more fun to fly than the Axe because it is lighter and more 
responsive.  With a much better head design and belt drive.  However, building and setting up the 250 takes a lot more knowledge
than is required for the Axe.

See my pics of various Axe modifications at the RC Groups Official Axe CP thread.(do a search on JEMFLYER) 

Note: it may be cheaper to buy brushed esc's and an after market gyro than to replace a 3 in 1 board.  Check out the
Hobby King 20a brushed esc for the tail, the 30a for the main motor and the <span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">HK401B gyro.  You can use the stock radio
</span>with this set up.