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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Frederick, MD
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    SRB QUARK Advanced Settings

    Hello everyone – new SRB Quark owner here. I’ve run well over 50 packs on factory settings and am really enjoying this heli.

    I do experience one odd behavior from time to time. When going forward at a decent speed, the tail rotor seems to β€œover engage” for just a moment and the tail kicks in an unexpected direction, throwing the machine off the straight line I intend to fly. I can correct it with the sticks but it is less precise than I expected. Also, piro rates are faster in one direction than the other (not really a problem but wonder if it’s related to the above). Anyone else having this experience?

    Could this be caused by my technique (or lack there of) or is it a result of a gyro setting or something else? Somewhere in the manual it talks briefly about a problem if the gyro does not adjust to the temperature. What’s that about?

    I have several questions regarding β€œadvanced” set-up and am hoping someone on this forum has already experimented with it and would be kind enough to describe their results. Any detail on the optimum setting(s) would be great. Also, did any advanced settings you made β€œdial out” the tendency to β€œnose up” in FF flight, or allow you to use less collective throttle to maintain FF flight? RC Heli magazine talks briefly but without detail about going to the advanced settings and said the β€œheli really wakes up.” I’m wondering which combination(s) of advanced settings yields the best results. I’m ready to give it a try.

    Sorry for the long post, but thanks for any input.

    * * * * * * * * * Details * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
    Regarding advanced set-up info in the manual (I found some things a little vague), I was wondering about:
    -Section 14-1 page 38 Changing aileron & elevator rudder angles. You flip over the #4 dip-switch to the RIGHT (ON) for the β€œhigh” setting. Simple enough. What kind of changes does this make to the flying characteristics? The word β€œangle” also has me confused. Can’t picture what’s going on here.
    -Section 14-4 page 40 adjusting the gyro sensitivity. To my eye, the tail isn’t hunting per se, especially in a hover. Was wondering if this is worth fooling with in an attempt to eliminate the tail kick in FF flight described above. Procedure #6 tells you to adjust the RUD ATT POT and fly the model. Procedure #7 describes saving your set-up. #8 leads me to believe that you must re-adjust this each time the power is turned on. Could that be correct? If so, that’s a giant hassle.
    -Section 12-2 page 33 Rotor Head. Box inset regarding the position of the o4 balls on the stabilizer. How did the advanced setting of the balls change and/or improve the flying characteristics? Did you do this in conjunction with changing other settings?
    -Section 14-3 page 40 Adjusting rudder rotation speed. Was wondering if this is related to advanced set-up and if it might improve the tail kick problem described above?
    Section 14-2 page 39 Adjusting throttle curve. Is this part of an advanced set-up or is it just for adjusting hovering height as it relates to throttle stick position? I haven’t fooled w/ this either, but would like a little more power or β€œpop” sometimes when stopping a fast descent.
    -Section 09-6 page 27 Adjusting rotation speed of the main blade (blade pitch). I think I’m fine in this area now, but when would one need to do this? Is it part of advanced set-up or just an adjustment to make as motor output changes over time?
    -Section 14-6 page 42 Resetting the data. When would you do this procedure? Does this return all electronic settings to factory settings (i.e. one makes multiple changes to the settings on the control unit & gets bad results, and this procedure takes you back to the beginning)?

  2. #2
    Dave ESPI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Rotterdam, NY
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    RE: SRB QUARK Advanced Settings

    Ive messed with this a bit and by changing the gain pot on the tail sensetivity (first one from the left on top the ECM) it makes the tail motor react and speed up faster. A heli will "Auto gyrate" faster in one direction because a tail will spin faster to the left due to it already needing "more speed" to rotate agains the rotation of the blades to maintain straight flight. When more speed is given in the opposite direction, it will spin faster because of less power input.

    You can adjust the rotors pitch angles a bit (screw heads on the bladegrips)_and then also increase the throttle curve, but there is a point where you over compensate, and it looses effectiveness.

    I too have noticed the odd occasional "over-reactiveness" or "lagg" in a tail movement, but I attribute it to signal loss as the TX/RX is not 2.4ghz.

    Ive got over 30 packs on myy heli, and today busted the first thing, it was the tail gear mount due to just such "lack" of reaction when I got my heli swinging out of a high angle of attack turn and hung in a tree, then slam the ground from 15 feet up.

    13 minutes later I was flying again with new parts and blades on it

    I love this heli

    If they come out with a CCMP that is as stable as this platform in this scale, I'll be inlove for ever
    * I hope the 4G3 from Walkara is as nice a flier as the Hirobo SRB quark as a CCMP 3d heli......
    BOYCOTT BANANA HOBBY. Ripoff artist Pete is a scammer with no backbone. Don\'\'t believe lies of \"lifetime customer support\".

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