ORIGINAL: Avid RC

What shield/seal is right for you?

Seals are not that tricky of a thing to understand. Rubber seals offer the most protection from debris entering the bearing but at the cost of a little friction from the rubber seal touching the races under loaded activities. Teflon provides the least amount of friction with great protection but teflon seals are known to be touchy animals while under load, they have a tendency to pop off. Metal shields are your most common variety of shield offered in the bearing market by providing decent protection and low friction.

Revolution (RSZ): Avid invented this seal make up in 2003 to offer the best of both worlds. There is a rubber seal on one side of the bearing and metal on the other. Since most cars have enclosed hubs and diffs, there is no reason to have the extra price of friction from the inside the hub with a rubber seal where no dirt can possible enter. But you still have the protection from the dirt not entering from the outside because it is sealed with the rubber seal.

Metal (ZZ): Suggested use of metal is on high temperature areas such as clutches or on tracks that are always well maintained with light watering in-between rounds.

Rubber (RS): They are becoming the more popular bearing among avid rc enthusiasts because they require the least maintenance to keep up to speed. In 1/8th scale clutches the rubber seal is not harmed if your clutch is setup correctly, however in 1/10 scale nitro trucks they will melt. We suggest that you use these on dusty or wet/muddy tracks because of their protection. The amount of resistance created by rubber is only slightly noticable in our uses so this is another reason of their rising popularity. Because they block dirt from getting in they also keep the grease from getting out.

Teflon (TS): We suggest you use teflon inside of enclosed areas such as transmissions. They provide the least amount of resistance but best used in non-loaded situations.

ORIGINAL: savagecommander

and for whatever reason the bearings i use dont show light. ive seen too many bearings get wasted because the ''seal'' pops out or gives way. just like in post #17, IME i use shielded bearings with good results.

and a contrary opinion does not mean ignorant and misinformed. you can get off your high horse now.

ORIGINAL: purenitro33



So now your making claims that my horse does drugs??? [X(]

ORIGINAL: savagecommander
the metal shields will hold up a lot longer in harsh conditions.

ORIGINAL: savagecommander
and a contrary opinion does not mean ignorant and misinformed.

ORIGINAL: purenitro33

Your opinion and post was rude and ignorant towards me when I was only trying to help and give good information.i was ignorant and misinformed? You are misinformed as you are comparing tiny wheel bearings which have a constant spray of dust/dirt/mud which the front engine bearing will never be subjected to.i never said what size they were. i gave a mention of wheel bearings on a slash-but i also use metal shields on my baja Given the size of the wheel bearing, you may not be able to see through them, but then you come out with ''you must be running cheap gear'' lol. I don't mind to give information but when your rude to me, call me a liarwhen did i do that? ...isnt that being ignorant again? and then make accusations of which you have zero knowledge on,remember that part about being ignorant? my tongue may slip a little bit. Just because you had a seal pop out and you put the same one back in only to have it pop out again doesn't mean that sealed bearings are all junk,i think you need to remember i never said all rubber seal bearings are junk remember which engine and bearing therein you are referring to before you accuse me of running cheap stuff, as you yourself are running some of the cheapest equipment out there.remember that part about being ignorant? because you really know what i run..you're a "pro" right? If you want proof, just look at what the other members have posted, you can believe what I say or ignore it, I will not back every one of my comments with proof just to appease you buddy

Sorry to the OP for getting a little sideways from the original question, it was never my intention.

Robin.

ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

Back to the original post here haha.... I let the motor sit in fuel for the last 4 days. I am pleased to post that the bearings are fine just a little surface corrosion on the races. The balls inside spin freely and without obstruction. The crank also has minor surface corrosion on it. I just ordered diamond dremel sanding bits. I have been reading up on how to mod your own engine. How much material is alowed to come off before the crank becomes to unbalanced. I know the Supertip and Purenitro have a ton of experience in this area. Could either of you give me a few pointers on whats up with grinding. Have no fear im not a noob with metal. Im a certified Aeronautical Welder/ metal smith so i know my way around metal. But these engines rotate at 40+ thousand rpm. Alot can go wrong quickly