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Help: Savage Flux 2350

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Old 05-21-2011, 05:53 PM
  #1
Cossey
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Default Help: Savage Flux 2350

So I used to be into R/C about 10 years ago mainly using my brother's things, but now I have a couple of my own and need some help.

I bought a Savage Flux 2350. I've done a little bashing and has taken quite a few hits (not holding a remote for a decade will do that I suppose), but there's a few things I want to upgrade before they give me any issue. I've been reading through threads on here for almost a week now, just seeing what is generally recommended.

The only things set in stone to get are:
HD drive gear (# 102514) and the Castle Link USB programming kit

1. I see most recommend the RPM suspension arms. Any reason for this over the HPI aluminum bits aside from price?
2. I'd like to do HPI's suspension upgrade (# 87245), but am concerned about compatibility with other things, such as the big-bore aluminum shock kit (# A720) and TCS's chassis upgrades (both extended and stock wheelbases). Is there anyone running all of these things together?
3. With the big-bore aluminum shock kit, what weight oil are you guys (if using them) using?
4. Should I be upgrading anything radio/transmitter wise? Right now I'm jusitng the radio/servos/receiver that came in the RTR set.
5. I'd like more stability in turns, is there anything I should do to perhaps widen the track that won't break anything else?
6. TCS's chassis upgrades:Would I be fine with their standard length upgrade (and does it make the body sit any higher?) or aside from straight line stability (less chance of flipping due to wheelies) are there any benefits to the extended chassis? I don't take it off of massive jumps yet, but I'm sure there will be a point where I will.

I'll be sure to ask more questions as they come up, but I have nothing right now.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:22 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Cossey

So I used to be into R/C about 10 years ago mainly using my brother's things, but now I have a couple of my own and need some help.

I bought a Savage Flux 2350. I've done a little bashing and has taken quite a few hits (not holding a remote for a decade will do that I suppose), but there's a few things I want to upgrade before they give me any issue. I've been reading through threads on here for almost a week now, just seeing what is generally recommended.

The only things set in stone to get are:
HD drive gear (# 102514) and the Castle Link USB programming kit

1. I see most recommend the RPM suspension arms. Any reason for this over the HPI aluminum bits aside from price?
2. I'd like to do HPI's suspension upgrade (# 87245), but am concerned about compatibility with other things, such as the big-bore aluminum shock kit (# A720) and TCS's chassis upgrades (both extended and stock wheelbases). Is there anyone running all of these things together?
3. With the big-bore aluminum shock kit, what weight oil are you guys (if using them) using?
4. Should I be upgrading anything radio/transmitter wise? Right now I'm jusitng the radio/servos/receiver that came in the RTR set.
5. I'd like more stability in turns, is there anything I should do to perhaps widen the track that won't break anything else?
6. TCS's chassis upgrades: Would I be fine with their standard length upgrade (and does it make the body sit any higher?) or aside from straight line stability (less chance of flipping due to wheelies) are there any benefits to the extended chassis? I don't take it off of massive jumps yet, but I'm sure there will be a point where I will.

I'll be sure to ask more questions as they come up, but I have nothing right now.
1. Get RPM arms. Aluminum arms bend.
2. HPI's racing susp. conversion will work with TCS chassis. I have heard numerous reports that the aluminum big bores leak - Stick with stock.
3. Big bores work best with 20-40 weight oil. I usually run 30wt
4. The stock radio and receiver - (as long as they are 2.4ghz versions) - work great. Keep them. Steering servo you might want to change if your truck isnt steering as well as you want. First I'd do the ball bearing upgrade though.
5. If you get offset wheels, it is putting you at risk for breaking more things. I prefer stock offset wheels. I WOULD get XL width axles though - these will add a bit of width.
6. TCS chassis are excellent. Either one will work great. Stock length will be more responsive in the air and would spin backflips quicker. I run XL and I still do endless wheelies and EPIC jumps/backflips. Id get XL personally. Your chassis layout will be less cramped.

Check out my two Flux bashing videos. I am running TCS XL length TVPs in both videos. It will give you a good idea of the abuse they can take and also how they handle 6s.

http://youtu.be/G1pWgIeLZPI

http://youtu.be/zSlVYPDhs74

Hope this helped!

Jon

.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:22 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

1. Unless you are doing mega jumps, the standard Savage arms are more than capable. Otherwise, RPM makes quality stuff thats far better than any aluminum arms.
2. Not really worth the cost. But it won't affect in compatibility with shocks or chassises. However you really can't get spare parts for it, so you'd have to buy a complete set again. Better option would be to run the upper adjustable arms from the Savage XSS/XL and the run some Integy (yup one of the few good parts) rear hub carriers in the rear to eliminate the slop with the tie rods.
3. These are just the Flux shocks but in aluminum. Not really any reason to switch unless you are doing mega air and blowing the tops off.
4. Depends... if its AM, then you may want to eventually go to 2.4ghz, just less hassle, no interferance, etc. If its the 2.4, then not really. At some point a 7.4V hi-power servo with lots of torque, especially if running bigger/heavier wheel/tires.
5. Get some 1/2" offset wheels, if the Flux doesn't already come with them. Otherwise you can run some Savage XL axles (the Flux uses the same drive dogbones as the XL, just shorter axles). Or both. Search around, there are some folks who have gone more extreme such as using LST arms on their Savages, but it requires modding and some new parts,
6. The TCS chassis is a duplicate of the standard Flux chassis, its just 5mm instead of 2.5mm. The XL chassis is the same dimensions as the nitro XL chassis, but its for the Flux, and is 5mm wide.

Lastly, its a MONSTER truck, not a truggy. Its going to roll, flip, etc. The 2350, even on 4S, isn't quite as flip happy as the standard Flux on 4S and definetly not on 6S, but its still going to get a bit crazy... which is a lot of the charm of it.

As far as rolling, you could get some different tires either that are stiffer (ProLine Badlands or Trenchers) or that have lower sidewalls which will help a bit with the rolling. You can also pick up the sway bar kit that helps too, between the XL axles, the sway bars, lower or stiffer tires, and the 1/2" offset rims thats really about as good as you can do. You can also tune the truck by running the suspension arms level with the ground. This will lower the truck slightly from stock and help with the rolling.

As far as flipping. Get the Savage wheelie bar, or try the Traxxas wheelie bar mod. Won't keep it from flipping, but will help you wheelie. You can also tune the MMM with the Castle Link to reduce the punch control to somewhere between 50-100.

This is what I run in my Flux. Just keep in mind, different people have different views on setup and what they prefer. So you just gotta experiment and find what you like best.

springs
front: white
rear: white

damper
front: 50wt
rear: 50wt

anti-roll bar:
front: silver
rear: silver

diffs:
front: 10k
rear: 7k

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Cossey

So I used to be into R/C about 10 years ago mainly using my brother's things, but now I have a couple of my own and need some help.

I bought a Savage Flux 2350. I've done a little bashing and has taken quite a few hits (not holding a remote for a decade will do that I suppose), but there's a few things I want to upgrade before they give me any issue. I've been reading through threads on here for almost a week now, just seeing what is generally recommended.

The only things set in stone to get are:
HD drive gear (# 102514) and the Castle Link USB programming kit

1. I see most recommend the RPM suspension arms. Any reason for this over the HPI aluminum bits aside from price?
2. I'd like to do HPI's suspension upgrade (# 87245), but am concerned about compatibility with other things, such as the big-bore aluminum shock kit (# A720) and TCS's chassis upgrades (both extended and stock wheelbases). Is there anyone running all of these things together?
3. With the big-bore aluminum shock kit, what weight oil are you guys (if using them) using?
4. Should I be upgrading anything radio/transmitter wise? Right now I'm jusitng the radio/servos/receiver that came in the RTR set.
5. I'd like more stability in turns, is there anything I should do to perhaps widen the track that won't break anything else?
6. TCS's chassis upgrades: Would I be fine with their standard length upgrade (and does it make the body sit any higher?) or aside from straight line stability (less chance of flipping due to wheelies) are there any benefits to the extended chassis? I don't take it off of massive jumps yet, but I'm sure there will be a point where I will.

I'll be sure to ask more questions as they come up, but I have nothing right now.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:25 PM
  #4
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Whether you go with offset wheels or the XL width axles, something is bound to break. For the most part there isn't any difference.

Quote:
5. If you get offset wheels, it is putting you at risk for breaking more things. I prefer stock width wheels. I WOULD get XL width axles though - these will add a bit of width.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:00 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

1. I may just do the RPMstuff just for a preventative measure. I'd hate to be without spares in case something did break.
2. I didn't know that you can't piece together the conversion. That sucks for no spares available. So for the Savage XSS/XL arms, should I get the HPI part number, or is there any aftermarket that may be stronger/better?
3. Good to know. Would it be ok to switch the springs out to something with a higher rate on the stock dampers?
4. Unfortunately it is the AM radio. I'd already like to go 2.4GHz, but I'd also like to be able to use one radio for both the Savage and my Sprint 2 Flux. How would I do that with the 2.4GHz system?I'm used to just swapping out crystals lol.
5. Will new carriers fix the issue with things breaking?Or even after new aluminum pieces are swapped, the next part in line will break?
6. The only thing holding me back from going XLis that I don't like how high the body sits on the TCS XL chassis. Is there a way to lower it?

As of right now, I have a shopping cart going @ TCS, just waiting for some more answers really.

Thanks for all of your help and info on your suspension setup. I'm used to actual driving of real track cars, so I know a lot of the suspension setup meanings, just not used to off-road stuff and for R/C.

Thank you as well, ScMc.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: thzero

1. Unless you are doing mega jumps, the standard Savage arms are more than capable. Otherwise, RPM makes quality stuff thats far better than any aluminum arms.
2. Not really worth the cost. But it won't affect in compatibility with shocks or chassises. However you really can't get spare parts for it, so you'd have to buy a complete set again. Better option would be to run the upper adjustable arms from the Savage XSS/XL and the run some Integy (yup one of the few good parts) rear hub carriers in the rear to eliminate the slop with the tie rods.
3. These are just the Flux shocks but in aluminum. Not really any reason to switch unless you are doing mega air and blowing the tops off.
4. Depends... if its AM, then you may want to eventually go to 2.4ghz, just less hassle, no interferance, etc. If its the 2.4, then not really. At some point a 7.4V hi-power servo with lots of torque, especially if running bigger/heavier wheel/tires.
5. Get some 1/2" offset wheels, if the Flux doesn't already come with them. Otherwise you can run some Savage XL axles (the Flux uses the same drive dogbones as the XL, just shorter axles). Or both. Search around, there are some folks who have gone more extreme such as using LST arms on their Savages, but it requires modding and some new parts,
6. The TCS chassis is a duplicate of the standard Flux chassis, its just 5mm instead of 2.5mm. The XL chassis is the same dimensions as the nitro XL chassis, but its for the Flux, and is 5mm wide.

Lastly, its a MONSTER truck, not a truggy. Its going to roll, flip, etc. The 2350, even on 4S, isn't quite as flip happy as the standard Flux on 4S and definetly not on 6S, but its still going to get a bit crazy... which is a lot of the charm of it.

As far as rolling, you could get some different tires either that are stiffer (ProLine Badlands or Trenchers) or that have lower sidewalls which will help a bit with the rolling. You can also pick up the sway bar kit that helps too, between the XL axles, the sway bars, lower or stiffer tires, and the 1/2" offset rims thats really about as good as you can do. You can also tune the truck by running the suspension arms level with the ground. This will lower the truck slightly from stock and help with the rolling.

As far as flipping. Get the Savage wheelie bar, or try the Traxxas wheelie bar mod. Won't keep it from flipping, but will help you wheelie. You can also tune the MMM with the Castle Link to reduce the punch control to somewhere between 50-100.

This is what I run in my Flux. Just keep in mind, different people have different views on setup and what they prefer. So you just gotta experiment and find what you like best.

springs
front: white
rear: white

damper
front: 50wt
rear: 50wt

anti-roll bar:
front: silver
rear: silver

diffs:
front: 10k
rear: 7k
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:13 AM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

2. If you are going to use RPM arms, might as well just use both the upper and lowers. Otherwise, if running Savage arms, the XSS/XL part numbers are fine. Never had those break on me, even on my 5th scale conversion. I do like the Integy hub carries (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWSY0&P=7), about the only Integy stuff I'd use as people have had good success with them, as they remove the tie-rod slop from the rear-end.
3. Sure. Both the standard Flux and the big bores run the Savage Hellfire springs. They used to sell a 6 pack in different weights, but don't see it right now. See below for a lsiting of the part #s and weights.
4. Oh sorry. Personally if I was going to do any upgrade to the Flux to start with, that would be the number one goal. To use one controller on multiple vehicles, you either have to swap the receiver back and forth, or you need a receiver for each vehicle. All the 2.4ghz, that I'm aware of, bind the transmitter to multiple receivers. I personally am running Spektrum gear, its not bad. Futaba is probably top-dog, but its also expensive. Tactic I've seen good reviews on, but don't have one. ProBoat and a few other companies are offering Tactic radios with their RTRs. You could hit up ebay and find a HPI 2.4ghz controller/receiver that someone has parted out too.
5. The point of the hub carriers, both with the Integy or with the HPI suspension conversion, is to remove the slop out of the rear end. Monster trucks aren't exactly nimble or precise beasts (they aren't an 8th scale buggy or truggy) but it does make a difference when the rear wheels aren't wobbling under load due to the slop with the tie-rod (since the front and back of the Savage are basically identical).
6. The body sits the SAME way on both the X (Flux length) and XL chassis, period. The only difference between the X and XL chassis is that the XL is 1.5" longer. All the Savage X derived trucks have adjustable body posts, so you can pretty much put the body at just about any height you want.

Honestly though, if TCS still has the X chassis at 20 bucks, I'd buy both. 20 bucks for a 5mm, high-quality chassis is a great deal.

#86549 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 12.5 COILS (BLUE 71gF/mm)
#86550 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 10.5 COILS (SILV 89gF/mm)
#86551 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 14.5 COILS (PINK 134gF/mm) (kit part)
#86553 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 12.5 COILS (WHIT 159gF/mm)
#86554 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 11.5 COILS (YEL 177gF/mm)
#86555 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 10.5 COILS (RED 196gF/mm)

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Cossey

1. I may just do the RPM stuff just for a preventative measure. I'd hate to be without spares in case something did break.
2. I didn't know that you can't piece together the conversion. That sucks for no spares available. So for the Savage XSS/XL arms, should I get the HPI part number, or is there any aftermarket that may be stronger/better?
3. Good to know. Would it be ok to switch the springs out to something with a higher rate on the stock dampers?
4. Unfortunately it is the AM radio. I'd already like to go 2.4GHz, but I'd also like to be able to use one radio for both the Savage and my Sprint 2 Flux. How would I do that with the 2.4GHz system? I'm used to just swapping out crystals lol.
5. Will new carriers fix the issue with things breaking? Or even after new aluminum pieces are swapped, the next part in line will break?
6. The only thing holding me back from going XL is that I don't like how high the body sits on the TCS XL chassis. Is there a way to lower it?

As of right now, I have a shopping cart going @ TCS, just waiting for some more answers really.

Thanks for all of your help and info on your suspension setup. I'm used to actual driving of real track cars, so I know a lot of the suspension setup meanings, just not used to off-road stuff and for R/C.

Thank you as well, ScMc.
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:08 AM
  #7
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


Quote:
ORIGINAL: thzero

2. If you are going to use RPM arms, might as well just use both the upper and lowers. Otherwise, if running Savage arms, the XSS/XL part numbers are fine. Never had those break on me, even on my 5th scale conversion. I do like the Integy hub carries (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWSY0&P=7), about the only Integy stuff I'd use as people have had good success with them, as they remove the tie-rod slop from the rear-end.
3. Sure. Both the standard Flux and the big bores run the Savage Hellfire springs. They used to sell a 6 pack in different weights, but don't see it right now. See below for a lsiting of the part #s and weights.
4. Oh sorry. Personally if I was going to do any upgrade to the Flux to start with, that would be the number one goal. To use one controller on multiple vehicles, you either have to swap the receiver back and forth, or you need a receiver for each vehicle. All the 2.4ghz, that I'm aware of, bind the transmitter to multiple receivers. I personally am running Spektrum gear, its not bad. Futaba is probably top-dog, but its also expensive. Tactic I've seen good reviews on, but don't have one. ProBoat and a few other companies are offering Tactic radios with their RTRs. You could hit up ebay and find a HPI 2.4ghz controller/receiver that someone has parted out too.
5. The point of the hub carriers, both with the Integy or with the HPI suspension conversion, is to remove the slop out of the rear end. Monster trucks aren't exactly nimble or precise beasts (they aren't an 8th scale buggy or truggy) but it does make a difference when the rear wheels aren't wobbling under load due to the slop with the tie-rod (since the front and back of the Savage are basically identical).
6. The body sits the SAME way on both the X (Flux length) and XL chassis, period. The only difference between the X and XL chassis is that the XL is 1.5" longer. All the Savage X derived trucks have adjustable body posts, so you can pretty much put the body at just about any height you want.

Honestly though, if TCS still has the X chassis at 20 bucks, I'd buy both. 20 bucks for a 5mm, high-quality chassis is a great deal.

#86549 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 12.5 COILS (BLUE 71gF/mm)
#86550 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 10.5 COILS (SILV 89gF/mm)
#86551 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 14.5 COILS (PINK 134gF/mm) (kit part)
#86553 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 12.5 COILS (WHIT 159gF/mm)
#86554 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 11.5 COILS (YEL 177gF/mm)
#86555 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 10.5 COILS (RED 196gF/mm)
Awesome. After doing some more research the past couple days, I ordered the XL chassis conversion and several other bits. I'm prolly gonna go ahead and order the white and yellow springs. I dunno how much more stiff I'm gonna want it yet, and without the springs here there's no way to tell. I'm also ordering some of the 35wt oil as well. I think 50wt would be a bit too high of a viscosity for my liking. One of my friends have a Spektrum DX3S and won't stop raving about it, so I too will go that route, plus a-main has a kit w/ two receviers so that'll take care of both vehicles. One receiver has telemetry which I don't really need, but since I'll have more space on the chassis I'll prolly use that on the Savage and the smaller one on the Sprint.
I'll order the Integy hub carriers for sure. For some reason almost every pic I've seen of someone w/ the XL conversion is that the body sits high, with the side skirts lowest point still above the battery packs. Maybe people just put it up there on their own, or possible extra safety in rollovers?

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Old 05-23-2011, 12:13 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Cossey



1. I see most recommend the RPM suspension arms. Any reason for this over the HPI aluminum bits aside from price?

RPM. Aluminum is heavier and will just bend/break. Be ready to dremel the RPM arms though for free articulation, they fit really tight if you don't

2. I'd like to do HPI's suspension upgrade (# 87245), but am concerned about compatibility with other things, such as the big-bore aluminum shock kit (# A720) and TCS's chassis upgrades (both extended and stock wheelbases). Is there anyone running all of these things together?

No experience with suspension upgrade, both my Flux are stock

3. With the big-bore aluminum shock kit, what weight oil are you guys (if using them) using?

Never had issues with the stock big bores. Aluminum is more easily damaged and people apparently have leak problems with them. I've tried 40wt and it was just too stiff, it made my truck unstable backlip constantly when I didnt' want to, back to stock 30wt oil.

4. Should I be upgrading anything radio/transmitter wise? Right now I'm jusitng the radio/servos/receiver that came in the RTR set.

If your having interfearance issues or are sick of swapping crystals to bash with other people, yes a basic 2.4ghz radio is a nice upgrade but otherwise, not totally necassary

5. I'd like more stability in turns, is there anything I should do to perhaps widen the track that won't break anything else?

Upgrading the wheels with offset rims or installing Savage XL axles are your main choices.

6. TCS's chassis upgrades: Would I be fine with their standard length upgrade (and does it make the body sit any higher?) or aside from straight line stability (less chance of flipping due to wheelies) are there any benefits to the extended chassis? I don't take it off of massive jumps yet, but I'm sure there will be a point where I will.

Stock TCS changes nothing about the truck, just stronger frame. I had an FLM XL chassis on Frostbyte II but I didn't like how it was harder to wheelie and do air control with the extended lengtg so I went back to stock. Your needs my vary, i've never bent a stock chassis frame but I also don't beat the shiat out my Flux as hard as other people do either.
If you want more info on what i've tried on my FLux, read my build thread here

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_99...tm.htm#9922374


To show how unstable my Flux was with 40wt shock oil, watch this vid. It really sucked, the truck could absorb jump energy well but everything else, the handling and control sucked as you can see i'm constantly backflipping no matter what I do

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysY_YnXU_Sw[/youtube]



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Old 05-23-2011, 12:35 PM
  #9
Cossey
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Freeze- I was actually reading your build thread last night and got a few ideas. I saw how you said the 40w was too stiff, so I went w/ HPI's 35wt. Hopefully it's a good balance.

Here's everything I have ordered so far:
TCS XL chassis conversion
XL 142mm dogbone required for conversion
TCS ESC plate for their XL chassis
HPI engine mount brace @ M4x10 screws required for the ESC plate
HPI steering upgrade set
HPI HD servo saver spring
HPI sway bar set
TCS straps for the battery boxes
RPM a-arms
RPM skid plate (not 100% sure it'll fit, but if it doesn't I'll see if possible to exchange for larger or sell to member on here if wanted)
HPI HD 18-23 drive gear
Castle Link
Spektrum DX3S transmitter/receiver set
Integy rear hub carriers

There's a few more things I'll wanna do as well, especially wheel/tire wise. I had all of the chrome chipping off of the stock wheels the day I got the truck. I dunno what to do for them, as I'd like to just keep stock sizing I think.

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Old 05-23-2011, 12:53 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Looks good my man, though i'm curious were you found integy hub carriers as EVERYONE is freaking out of them till mid summer :P The spektrum is a little over the top for the Flux, you can get a more basic Airtronics MX Sport 2.4ghz radio for a $100 or a Spektrum 2 two channel unless you have more trucks you wanna control with one remote. I thought about 35wt myself but decided to stick with 30wt so my truck handles decently again, though I do like the white springs vs the stock pink springs for a bit more jump absorption. Chrome painted rims suck, it always chips and flakes off no matter what, so I just run white rims on all my trucks.

With the XL conversion, your gonna be putting more load on that motor which means its gonna get hotter and some people have had issues with it. My BLUR ESC always had the fan on with my XL conversion on 4S so I geared down to prevent frying the system. Be prepared to gear down to 18t or 17t to reduce the load on that cheaper motor and ESC

The RPM plate cover is also a really nice addition, I no longer have to worry about landing on a rock and destroying my drivetrain. RPM has stated however that it won't work with non stock Savage frames so your likely gonna have to do some dremeling to get it to work on the FLM chassis

You may also wanna change the stock diffs 1k oil to heavier like 30k or even 50k like I run. Helps keep the power to the ground and less likely to leak


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Old 05-23-2011, 01:14 PM
  #11
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Freezetron

Looks good my man, though i'm curious were you found integy hub carriers as EVERYONE is freaking out of them till mid summer :P The spektrum is a little over the top for the Flux, you can get a more basic Airtronics MX Sport 2.4ghz radio for a $100 or a Spektrum 2 two channel unless you have more trucks you wanna control with one remote. I thought about 35wt myself but decided to stick with 30wt so my truck handles decently again, though I do like the white springs vs the stock pink springs for a bit more jump absorption. Chrome painted rims suck, it always chips and flakes off no matter what, so I just run white rims on all my trucks.

With the XL conversion, your gonna be putting more load on that motor which means its gonna get hotter and some people have had issues with it. My BLUR ESC always had the fan on with my XL conversion on 4S so I geared down to prevent frying the system. Be prepared to gear down to 18t or 17t to reduce the load on that cheaper motor and ESC

The RPM plate cover is also a really nice addition, I no longer have to worry about landing on a rock and destroying my drivetrain. RPM has stated however that it won't work with non stock Savage frames so your likely gonna have to do some dremeling to get it to work on the FLM chassis

You may also wanna change the stock diffs 1k oil to heavier like 30k or even 50k like I run. Helps keep the power to the ground and less likely to leak


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rpmprotect.jpg
Unfortunately I ordered from Integy directly for them, as the purple ones were in stock. Silver is out for a while though. Purple doesn't bother me too much though, I've done less masculine things in my lifetime lol. For the Spektrum, I'm going to be controlling my Sprint 2 Flux as well, so it'll be useful. I know there were much cheaper alternatives out there, but eh, I can be an elitest at times I suppose. I love quality over just about any other attribute (prolly why I love German cars and good guns lol), so I don't mind paying for it.

For the diff oil, I'll definitely have to look into that.

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Old 05-24-2011, 08:27 AM
  #12
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

You shouldn't need to change the gear ratio at all, even with going to the slightly heavier XL chassis. In gear, gearing down actually puts more load on the batteries/esc and less on the motor and then the inverse is true in that in general gearing up puts more load on the motor and less on the batteries/esc.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Freezetron
With the XL conversion, your gonna be putting more load on that motor which means its gonna get hotter and some people have had issues with it. My BLUR ESC always had the fan on with my XL conversion on 4S so I geared down to prevent frying the system. Be prepared to gear down to 18t or 17t to reduce the load on that cheaper motor and ESC
That depends, but in this case it will. The RPM Flux plate works just fine with the TCS Flux frames; thats what I have on mine now that I rebuilt it as a standard Flux. And I'm positive it will work with the TCS Flux XL frame too, just won't cover the entire thing. Not sure why you brought up the FLM frame.

[quote]ORIGINAL: Freezetron
RPM has stated however that it won't work with non stock Savage frames so your likely gonna have to do some dremeling to get it to work on the FLM chassis

While I agree that the stock diff grease is crap, I personally run 10k front, 7k rear. Changing the oil in the diffs won't help you keep the power to the ground, rather it will actually more affect the turning of the truck. See below for a snippet from some buggy/truggy setup guides on front/center/rear oil, noting that the gearbox equates to having a locked center diff. That being said, it also depends on your usage of the truck. If you are doing more hillclimbing, you may find that heavier oils in the diffs works better or even using a diff locker. There are tradeoffs in everything.

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ORIGINAL: Freezetron
You may also wanna change the stock diffs 1k oil to heavier like 30k or even 50k like I run. Helps keep the power to the ground and less likely to leak
DIFF OIL THICKNESS CHARACTERISTICS
Front
Thinner
• Increases steering into corners (off-power)
• If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent, especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners
Thicker
• Increases stability into corners during braking
• Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Center
Thinner
• Front wheels unload more during acceleration
• Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
• Easier to drive on rough tracks
• If a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center differential because it “overloads”
• More off-power steering
Thicker
• More all-wheel drive effect
• Better acceleration
• Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
• Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
• Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle

Rear
Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner
Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:40 AM
  #13
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

Should have gone with Futaba then.

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ORIGINAL: Cossey
For the Spektrum, I'm going to be controlling my Sprint 2 Flux as well, so it'll be useful. I know there were much cheaper alternatives out there, but eh, I can be an elitest at times I suppose. I love quality over just about any other attribute (prolly why I love German cars and good guns lol), so I don't mind paying for it.
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:12 AM
  #14
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


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ORIGINAL: thzero

Should have gone with Futaba then.

Oh God, don't start that flame war....
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:16 AM
  #15
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

[quote]ORIGINAL: thzero

You shouldn't need to change the gear ratio at all, even with going to the slightly heavier XL chassis. In gear, gearing down actually puts more load on the batteries/esc and less on the motor and then the inverse is true in that in general gearing up puts more load on the motor and less on the batteries/esc.

All I know is that with my XL conversion, my ESC was always running hot until I geared down to 18t

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Freezetron
With the XL conversion, your gonna be putting more load on that motor which means its gonna get hotter and some people have had issues with it. My BLUR ESC always had the fan on with my XL conversion on 4S so I geared down to prevent frying the system. Be prepared to gear down to 18t or 17t to reduce the load on that cheaper motor and ESC
That depends, but in this case it will. The RPM Flux plate works just fine with the TCS Flux frames; thats what I have on mine now that I rebuilt it as a standard Flux. And I'm positive it will work with the TCS Flux XL frame too, just won't cover the entire thing. Not sure why you brought up the FLM frame.

Thought he bought the FLM chassis, but I guess not. I was under the impression the TCS wouldn't work either due it being thicker then stock as RPM said only stock frames would work with skidplate *shrug*

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Freezetron
RPM has stated however that it won't work with non stock Savage frames so your likely gonna have to do some dremeling to get it to work on the FLM chassis

While I agree that the stock diff grease is crap, I personally run 10k front, 7k rear. Changing the oil in the diffs won't help you keep the power to the ground, rather it will actually more affect the turning of the truck. See below for a snippet from some buggy/truggy setup guides on front/center/rear oil, noting that the gearbox equates to having a locked center diff. That being said, it also depends on your usage of the truck. If you are doing more hillclimbing, you may find that heavier oils in the diffs works better or even using a diff locker. There are tradeoffs in everything.

My Slash is my racer, it runs lighter oils for track. My Flux is my basher, hill climber, dirt thrower, thus I use thicker oil. Your needs will vary. And yes, thicker oils WILL help keep power to the ground as it will be less likely to unload on a free spinning wheel vs a lighter oil. If I could get away with locking my Flux's diffs, I would.

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Old 05-24-2011, 12:51 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


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ORIGINAL: thzero

Should have gone with Futaba then.
I've never touched a Futaba radio before, and after messing w/ the Spektrum, I thought it felt great and will do plenty that I need it to.

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Old 05-24-2011, 01:10 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

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ORIGINAL: Cossey


Quote:
ORIGINAL: thzero

Should have gone with Futaba then.
I've never touched a Futaba radio before, and after messing w/ the Spektrum, I thought it felt great and will do plenty that I need it to.

While owning my Baja 5T last year, I got VERY SICK of all the Futaba fanboys at the Baja forums, drove me farking nuts, almost like a damn cult
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:19 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

LOL, well every brand has their cult it seems.

Last night I was messing around in my basement, and all of the sudden the truck just stopped getting power. The batteries were fresh, only a week old if that and freshly charged. Dismissing an issue w/ the batteries themselves, I started taking the truck apart, checking all connections. Then when I got it all back together, I turned on the radio and ESC, I plugged one battery in and the connected for the other battery (from the ESC) touched the shock springs, and sparked and the truck made the startup sounds. I then switched batteries (to determine if battery or connector) and it didn't do it. So I plugged the good battery back in and grabbed another battery I had and it started right up. I put the dumpy battery on the charger and it read "No battery." Great. Luckily the place I got batteries from had just gotten more today so I swapped it out. I then found that Venom has been having a bit of quality control issues as of late.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:38 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

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ORIGINAL: Cossey

LOL, well every brand has their cult it seems.

Last night I was messing around in my basement, and all of the sudden the truck just stopped getting power. The batteries were fresh, only a week old if that and freshly charged. Dismissing an issue w/ the batteries themselves, I started taking the truck apart, checking all connections. Then when I got it all back together, I turned on the radio and ESC, I plugged one battery in and the connected for the other battery (from the ESC) touched the shock springs, and sparked and the truck made the startup sounds. I then switched batteries (to determine if battery or connector) and it didn't do it. So I plugged the good battery back in and grabbed another battery I had and it started right up. I put the dumpy battery on the charger and it read ''No battery.'' Great. Luckily the place I got batteries from had just gotten more today so I swapped it out. I then found that Venom has been having a bit of quality control issues as of late.
since they opened up shop is as of late?

It seemed they had a QC issue since the started with lipos (as in they actually worked ) so it seems they just went back to their standard sub quality hardware .

If you need lipos look at hobbyking.com 5200mah 30C 2S hardcases are $23 or so a pop
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:47 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


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ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM


since they opened up shop is as of late?

It seemed they had a QC issue since the started with lipos (as in they actually worked ) so they just went back to their standard sub quality service.

If you need lipos look at hobbypartz.com 5200mah 30C 2S hardcases are $23 or so a pop
Lol, I don't know how long they've been around, I'm just getting back into the swing of things w/ R/C. But so far the other pack is good.

My friend pointed me to both hobbypartz.com and hobbyking.com and I ordered six 5000mah 30C 2S packs, a Turnigy multi-lipo charger, deans connectors, and other small bits. I think overall I paid $230.
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:26 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

I have had venom packs since i bought my flux, (6 months ago), they worked great, tons of power, and now they are both puff due to my lipo inexperience. I didnt leave them on the storage voltage for the winter months, i left them fully charged ....they definately have less current...alot less. DAMMIT!! looking at your upgrades, why didnt you get the hp? i absolutely love this truck on 6s! its stupid powerfull-scott.....or so it was.. time to give hobbyking a try
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:26 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

I got my Flux Savage about 4 months ago and its been great fun. When i first drove the truck, i was not all that happy with the handling. The truck leans too much on turns which cause it to flip. This was all but fixed with the HPI suspension conversion set, the stabilizer bar, and the HPI big bore shocks which i filled with 50wt oil all around. The truck now handles unbelievably well on and off road. It doesnt lean anymore on turns like it used to and IMO was definitely worth the upgrade.
The things i did so far are.. The suspension conversion, HPI big bore shocks with 50wt oil, the TCS thicker aluminum chassis plates. changed the HD gear before it went, got two velcro straps, HPI stabilizer bar, RPM A arms, front and rear. Broke the original front ones the second day out. I read on here they would not fit without modifying, but mine rite on with no problems. A few other little things. cant remember.
After these upgrades the truck handles like a different truck and is pretty tough. Have not broken anything the last 8 times out and im pretty hard on it. jumps and all. The tuning on the truck has improved dramatically since its RTR days. After the suspension conversion and the big bores shocks with 50wt oil the truck is pretty hard to flip. You really have to try hard as opposed to before when you had to try hard not to flip.
All in all its a great truck and probably the best off road basher i have ever had. I recommend this truck to anybody!
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:23 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

I dunno how your managing with 50wt oil in shocks. I tried 40 and my Flux was uncontrollable with the throttle, all it wanted to do was turtle flip.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:13 PM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350


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ORIGINAL: Freezetron

I dunno how your managing with 50wt oil in shocks. I tried 40 and my Flux was uncontrollable with the throttle, all it wanted to do was turtle flip.
I've seen your vids. you're not a very good driver [:-]
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:22 AM
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Default RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350

I use two velcro straps per side, maybe overkill but I had plenty so whatever. But yeah, I basically hacked off the lock tabs and just use the velcro. I am also running the GCM battery box carriers. The Savage anti-roll bars are nice too, especially the plastic cap that gets rid of the issue with the top suspension arm rod coming out because of bumper flexing. Big bores are the exact same thing, but in aluminum, as what comes on the Flux anyways.

Good truck, but still rather run my RC8Te.
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