sparky 25

After much deliberation ive decided to give up with nitro and go with a brushless setup on my extended flm chassis savage,

Not sure of what i need to get for this conversion,

but im going to be using are a pair of savage flux battery trays,

also was looking at this for a motor mount http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sou...-SZgo98hp3ZNig

and this for power supply http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2806825042...84.m1423.l2649

or else this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2806824987...84.m1423.l2649

will these systems be any use to a savage?

also any thing else i may need to do the conversion please point out to me,

thank you in advance for the help guys.

A pic of my stripped savage waiting for the conversion to begin

SyCo_VeNoM

trust me on this sell it used, and just buy a savage 2350, and get the XL flux plates from TCScrawlers
after you are all said and done with shipping the parts you need (not counting the electronics)will cost almost as much as a flux roller alone
just convert the prices in the post I link to the price you will get find them for off ebay seeing I don't deal in euros or local currencies
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10759955 all those prices were based on USD, and counting IF you can find the parts that cheap most times they are a bit more.

sparky 25

Im not really after a whole new truck,

my old chassis is fine im just looking some advice on the listed parts to get it converted to brushless,

i already have hd drive shafts and xl wheel axles with new cen diffs installed,

rpm arms and flux bigbores(yet to be installed)

and alloy front and rear hubs,

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

Why get the 2350???? The Flux HP is the way to go....

SyCo_VeNoM

biggest issue is mounting the batteries
the flux mounts have no counterpart on the standard savage chassis's so chances are you will need to drill out your FLM chassis to add points to mount the box's if you go with those
Also the next issue is the motor mount itself. The flux mount will not work due to the differences in how the nitro chassis's and flux are made.


In all honesty you might want to just order the kershaw motor mount, and battery box's for savage conversions seeing those will use standard savage mount points.
http://204.186.93.64/SavageBrushlessConversion.htm be warned not sure how it works with the FLM chassis though
also http://204.186.93.64/MotorMounts-Savage.html the integy one I read is junk(like most of their things), the LCG I doubt you will get very many pinion options.
The ansman mount looks interesting but I think it would suffer from lack of pinion options like I think the LCG mount would. Also it has one battery holder which IMO is not a good idea.

You will need the HPI idler gear to give you reverse (cheapest part at $7 USD) to convert your tranny

The diffs will also be needed (unless you have the BP diffs already) seeing brushless power is very harsh on them.

as for the power house if you want low end look at the 2000kv HW 150A ESC combo (What I use in my conversion)
the leopard stuff I heard conflicting things about which is what that kershaw labeled ESC is.

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

Speed Passion has a brushless conversion for the Savage

http://www.etamiya.com/shop/speed-pa...-90028718.html

Marco810

Savage would probably burn out the first motor listed. that system looks aimed towards a buggy/truggy

anyways good luck with your build. its much more satisfying putting together your own truck imo

sparky 25

Gonna go with the kershaw designs motor mount,

been looking at esc`s which one is gonna work best with a turnigy 2200kv motor?

this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Car_ESC_.html

or this one?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Car_ESC.html

are turnigy 2200kv reliable motors?

SyCo_VeNoM

go 2000kv or lower man
why I said the HW 2000kv 150A combo
2200 I found caused my savage I converted to end up on its lid 99% of the time.

sparky 25

Crap just after ordering this

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14632

and this

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Car_ESC_.html

also ordered the flux idler gear and hd 18/23 drive gear

hope with only using 4s it is still driveable

SyCo_VeNoM

gear it as LOW as you can

sparky 25

Change of plan,

parted out all the nitro related parts from my savage,

got enough money from the sale of the picco to buy the trackstar 2560kv motor and 150A esc,

my cen diffs and bulks and the associated mgt wheels i had been running, along with the flm chassis and proline bodyshell,

also sold well, so i had then enough cash to get the full hpi flux conversion kit and the hpi sway bar kit,

so now when my parts arrive i will have a savage flux with hopups at no cost to me at all over my nitro savage,

Just need to buy wheels and a bodyshell,

and then il start to look at what lipos to get,

Thank you SyCo_VeNoM for putting me on the right track with my flux conversion,

sparky 25

My hpi flux coversion kit arrived today

Im astonished at the number of parts it takes to do a flux conversion,

still waiting on my motor and esc to get here, and also the swaybars,

but i think i have enough bits to keep me building my truck for at least the next couple hours,

I pulled the flux diffs apart to fill with 50k silicone oil,

they came without thread lock on 6 of the eight screws on the 2 diffs,

moving onto the gearbox and have just looked at the included manual,
it shows when reassembling the gearbox to grease the gears,

i had always run my savage gearbox dry, do i need to grease the flux gearbox?

Foxy

I had the opposite problem with my 2350 diffs, one screw had to be drilled out.

As for grease, yeh, I would. It's a sealed unit so it shouldn't pick up any gunk.

sparky 25

Thanks[sm=teeth_smile.gif]

sparky 25

Need some help again guys,

my trackstar 2560kv motor and 150A esc arrived today,

the wires have to be soldered to the esc, and i was looking to know if regular solder was alright to use on this?

also there were no battery connector wires,

im looking for a set already made up like what comes on the flux hp to run dual batteries,

do hpi sell the battery wires made up ready to attach to the esc?

Foxy

In your position, what I would do is the following...

OK, you will need from the LHS... some black 12AWG or fatter black battery wire, a foot of red battery wire, 3 female bullets the same size as the male ones coming from the motor anda male of whatever battery plug you use.

Cut 3 lengths of 3 inch black wire, solder the female bullets to each one, and solder the free end directly to the esc (yes, normal solder is fine), now you can plug your motor into the esc. Now take suitable lengths of red and black for your battery lead, solder them to the outputs on the ESC and put a male deans (or whatever connector you use) on the end of it. Job done.

I'm not a fan of soldering motors directly to ESCs, just makes them difficult to change in the future, so soldering some intermediate cables with some high quality bullets is the way to go. Also, I'm not a fan of soldering dual connectors striaght to the ESC, again, it just limits you in the future. Solder a single connector to the ESC, and make your own double lead, it's dead easy, you need two male and one female deans. If you want I can take a picture of mine I made...

sparky 25

The trackstar esc came with 5x 10awg wires each measuring 6 inches long,

there are the black and red ones for the power supply, and a blue, yellow and orange one for the motor,

i will do as you mention on the bullet connectors from the motor to esc connection,

i was hoping if i got the red and black power wires soldered to the esc,
that i could put a deans plug on them to connect to this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castle-Cre...item2567a54d48

will this work for the power supply?

can you post a pic of what you have done with yours, hopefully i will get a better idea from your pics,

thank you for your help.

Foxy

K, gimme a min...

Foxy

Here we go...

This is my very dirty MMP, as you can see I just have a single battery input on it. I made myself a couple of these dual deans cables for whenever I need to run dual on anything, seems the most elegant solution to me.

sparky 25

Thats the setup i was hoping to go with, thanks for the pics,

got my flux motor mounts opened up with my dremmel by 1mm, to accept the trackstar motor,

installed the single speed flux gear in the gearbox and the hd drive gear as my stock one had some wear on it,

not long now until i get my first run at brushless power[8D]

Winslow253

how much is this costing i was thinking of doing it to my savage x ss

sparky 25

So far its costing me £94 for the motor and esc,

the hpi savage flux conversion kit cost £135,

i have rpm arms and alloy hubs and a hobbico cs170 steering servo that came from my nitro savage which will go on the flux

having sold my picco engine for £98,

the flm extended chassis, mgt wheels and xl bodyshell, and cen diffs i was running sold for £70

and a few other nitro related items sold for £70,

so for me its working out better than selling my whole truck and buying a new flux,
plus i love building my trucks from kit.

Winslow253

okay thanks, i like building mine to thats y i got a x ss

sparky 25

Can you give me a link or tell me what size of bullet connector i should be looking at
for use with 10awg,

the trackstar esc doesnt have female bullet connectors on it so i have to solder the wires directly onto the esc,

but i want to be able to split the esc and motor seperatly as you suggested,

my local hobby shop doesnt have any connectors in stock, so i will be having to buy online.