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  1. #1

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    Bad Engine, Decisions

    So my F4.6 Hpi engine has gone pretty bad.

    Needs the following.:

    Exhaust Gasket $5
    Piston+Sleeves $45
    One Way Bearing $20
    Clutch bearings + spacer $15
    Clutch + springs are pretty worn. $10

    Now my choices to get that fixed cost around 100 dollars from different places online.

    Should i just dump that engine and go for a better aftermarket one like a losi 454 or a LRP ZX 30X Comp??? A new f4.6 on ebay goes for around 100 shipped to canada.

    i am on a tight budget, if there is any other recommendations, please share. i also looked at some SH engines for around 80 shipped

  2. #2
    JohnP2's Avatar
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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    How many gallons does the engine have? I've heard waaaay too many stories about the OWB. Mine has only about eight tanks in it....but just waiting for the OWB to go out. I wonder if that roto-start has anything to do with it?

    What, specifically is wrong with the piston/sleeve? Also, $45 seems pretty inexpensive to replace the piston/sleeve.

    Thanks!
    Mugen MBX6R, HB D8T, Losi 8 2.0, Savage X 4.6, Losi 810, Hyper 7, Exceed Forza
    http://www.youtube.com/user/NitroRCNerds

  3. #3

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    45 seems pretty cheep... for my 5.9 its $100 or more...From everything i have read the one way bearing is  a common false when using the roto start for some reason. im pretty sure mine is on its way out but i think that my fault as a had a hard time getting it started when i got it and may have damaged it... i find the quickest way to start mine with roto start is just give it quick 2-3 second bursts and it usually starts teh second or third try. With all the bearing failure makes me wonder if dirt is getting into them... after a few runs i strip mine down and clean and lube everything...

  4. #4

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: JohnP2

    How many gallons does the engine have? I've heard waaaay too many stories about the OWB. Mine has only about eight tanks in it....but just waiting for the OWB to go out. I wonder if that roto-start has anything to do with it?

    What, specifically is wrong with the piston/sleeve? Also, $45 seems pretty inexpensive to replace the piston/sleeve.

    Thanks!
    not too sure about gallons, second hand. got it at a good price.

    owb is definately gone. thats around $20 with taxes to buy locally.

    the piston and sleeve is based on price on ebay shipped to canada... the lowest recent one is 30+5 shipping. 45 is conservative

    piston and sleeve might be worn. just did a pitch test but i has no idea how hard to push

  5. #5

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    45 seems pretty cheep... for my 5.9 its $100 or more...From everything i have read the one way bearing is Β*aΒ*commonΒ*falseΒ*when using the roto start for some reason. im pretty sure mine is on its way out but i think that my fault as a had a hard time getting it started when i got it and may have damaged it... i find the quickest way to start mine with roto start is just give it quick 2-3 secondΒ*burstsΒ*and it usually starts teh second or third try. With all the bearingΒ*failureΒ*makes me wonder if dirt is getting into them... after a few runs i strip mine down and clean and lube everything...
    its around 60 shipped for a 5.9

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HPI-15289-Cyl...#ht_4568wt_878

    however if i do spend $20 + 45 on the bearing and piston and sleeve, i minus whale buy a whole new engine for a bit more?

    im looking at something under $200 and has my eyes on the zr 30x. i do need to spend $45 more for a pull start for that engine if i do.

  6. #6

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    Get a new engine. Losi 454 or Dynamite Big Red .28. The Losis you can get cheap on ebay.. You may need a Losi Spin Start unit though.. They're THE most reliable way to start an MT engine anyway IMHO....
    Nitro > stamp collecting, watching grass grow, cleaning room, etc.. > electric.

  7. #7

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid the additional fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's

  8. #8

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid theΒ*additionalΒ*fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
    just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually

  9. #9

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    not nesisarily... i had a $75 pair of headlights and i got dinged $65 in border fees and that was through USPS.. When dealing with EBAY i always contact the seller and get a few more details. Usually if they are a top rated seller they are more than happy to help. It has saved me money

    ORIGINAL: qaz393


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid theadditionalfees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
    just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually

  10. #10

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    not nesisarily... i had a $75 pair of headlights and i got dinged $65 in border fees and that was through USPS.. When dealing with EBAY i always contact the seller and get a few more details. Usually if they are a top rated seller they are more than happy to help. It has saved me moneyΒ*

    ORIGINAL: qaz393


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid theΒ*additionalΒ*fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
    just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually
    that doesnt make sense. i buy so much an never get taxed....

    65 dollars is over 70% taxes. did u look at the breakdown on ur invoice?

  11. #11
    PrjctStrtFrce's Avatar
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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
    Anybody with a pullstart on a bigblock knows what it's like to be out in a field somewhere and yank on a pullstart, and either have it break, not recoil, or slip. Plus they just make starting significantly harder. Sometimes you just need a more extended blast with a Rotostart or box. Some people may be able to live with them, but afaic pullstarts are a curse for the vast majority of people. Anybody out there new to nitro, if your BB engine is pullstart, do yourself a favor and convert to Rotostart.
    So you would rather lug around a roto-start and have more batteries that you need to worry about charging? People that are new to the hobby may like the roto-start, but they can easily damage the OWB and/or shaft by over cranking from frustration. A higher ''rpm'' from the roto-start or a drill doesn't necessarily mean that it'll start, especially if the tune is out of whack or if there are any air leaks. I've never had a pull start fail, except for when I took one apart for the heck of it and wasn't able to recoil it perfectly. The reason that a pull start can slip is the exact reason that it can slip with a roto-start, and that is the OWB being soaked with fuel and/or being worn out. As far as the cord breaking, that again would most likely be from getting soaked with fuel and softening it up.


    Get in touch with supertib. He lives in Canada and I'm sure that he'd be willing to work with you on a motor.
    Keep your RCs, get rid of the wife. -bigwaltc-
    SFGP,HPIX4.6,XL,RS4 3,MERV,Kyosho IGT2RS, Redcat Rampage MT V3

  12. #12

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    le sad

    bought a rebuild kit and a zr30x + pull start + pullstart backplate

    which one to use? probably gonna sell rebuild kit + f4.6

  13. #13

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: PrjctStrtFrce

    ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
    Anybody with a pullstart on a bigblock knows what it's like to be out in a field somewhere and yank on a pullstart, and either have it break, not recoil, or slip. Plus they just make starting significantly harder. Sometimes you just need a more extended blast with a Rotostart or box. Some people may be able to live with them, but afaic pullstarts are a curse for the vast majority of people. Anybody out there new to nitro, if your BB engine is pullstart, do yourself a favor and convert to Rotostart.
    So you would rather lug around a roto-start and have more batteries that you need to worry about charging? People that are new to the hobby may like the roto-start, but they can easily damage the OWB and/or shaft by over cranking from frustration. A higher ''rpm'' from the roto-start or a drill doesn't necessarily mean that it'll start, especially if the tune is out of whack or if there are any air leaks. I've never had a pull start fail, except for when I took one apart for the heck of it and wasn't able to recoil it perfectly. The reason that a pull start can slip is the exact reason that it can slip with a roto-start, and that is the OWB being soaked with fuel and/or being worn out. As far as the cord breaking, that again would most likely be from getting soaked with fuel and softening it up.


    Get in touch with supertib. He lives in Canada and I'm sure that he'd be willing to work with you on a motor.
    ya i now learn to loosen glow plug a bit for start up. my engine ran like crap today. didnt want to bother with it so i put it away. so lazy

    im new to this and i rather have a pull start just so i can leave a glow igniter in my pocket and start the truck where ever i like without lugging more excess stuff.

  14. #14

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]
    ERCM Picco/ Endbleed power should be the only combo allowed in a Savage.

  15. #15
    PrjctStrtFrce's Avatar
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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    Creative and I'm sure effective, but that is a constant added rotating mass that makes the motor loose some power.
    Keep your RCs, get rid of the wife. -bigwaltc-
    SFGP,HPIX4.6,XL,RS4 3,MERV,Kyosho IGT2RS, Redcat Rampage MT V3

  16. #16

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    I just think its a great idea for an RTR motor
    ERCM Picco/ Endbleed power should be the only combo allowed in a Savage.

  17. #17

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    Need a tuned pipe now. i have an hpi aluminum but i think i can do better. both gasket header and pipe are shot. needs new so might as well yolo it.

  18. #18

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

    so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
    Neal Smith..owner Clockwork Racing Engines

  19. #19

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: supertib


    ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

    so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
    there is an internal clicker mechanism that prevents it from powering the roto gear.

  20. #20

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: qaz393


    ORIGINAL: supertib


    ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

    so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
    there is an internal clicker mechanism that prevents it from powering the roto gear.
    like on a Force 28 .....okay I understand
    Neal Smith..owner Clockwork Racing Engines

  21. #21
    yakfish's Avatar
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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.

  22. #22

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

    yep good idea untill you try to get it off after the engine has started. You would have to keep it spinning and hop it dosent jamb when u pull off
    ORIGINAL: yakfish

    That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.

  23. #23

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: Zrock

    yep good idea untill you try to get it off after the engine has started. You would have to keep it spinning and hop it dosent jamb when u pull off
    ORIGINAL: yakfish

    That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
    the nut does not spin with the engine. there is a one way mechanism that makes the crank now power the starter

  24. #24

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]
    Good idea,Love the stand too.Who makes it and how much?

  25. #25

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    RE: Bad Engine, Decisions


    ORIGINAL: yakfish

    That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
    Exactly how i start my F4.6 equipped revo. Works like a charm. I wanted to use the trx mount kit instead of the new era. With the rrx mount kit the start shaft on an F4.6 just clears the are but a roto/pullstart wont. When the engine starts i just pull the socket off. What alot of people dont realize it the shaft that comes out of the back off the engine doesnt even spin when running. Wouldnt matter anyways cause your using a one way bearing. None the less you can grab that shaft with the engine running. Except on trx engines and probably some other mills its keyed directly to the crank. On the f series engines they use the sping and pin system. Also a revo with a F4.6 tuned nicely friggin flyes!!!
    oversteer scares passengers, understeer scares drivers!-savagex,-savagexl,-savageflux,-revo3.3,-tmaxx3.3,-losi aftershock ltd


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