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Bad Engine, Decisions

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Old 10-18-2012, 01:16 PM
  #1
qaz393
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Default Bad Engine, Decisions

So my F4.6 Hpi engine has gone pretty bad.

Needs the following.:

Exhaust Gasket $5
Piston+Sleeves $45
One Way Bearing $20
Clutch bearings + spacer $15
Clutch + springs are pretty worn. $10

Now my choices to get that fixed cost around 100 dollars from different places online.

Should i just dump that engine and go for a better aftermarket one like a losi 454 or a LRP ZX 30X Comp??? A new f4.6 on ebay goes for around 100 shipped to canada.

i am on a tight budget, if there is any other recommendations, please share. i also looked at some SH engines for around 80 shipped
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:00 PM
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How many gallons does the engine have? I've heard waaaay too many stories about the OWB. Mine has only about eight tanks in it....but just waiting for the OWB to go out. I wonder if that roto-start has anything to do with it?

What, specifically is wrong with the piston/sleeve? Also, $45 seems pretty inexpensive to replace the piston/sleeve.

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:05 PM
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Default RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

45 seems pretty cheep... for my 5.9 its $100 or more...From everything i have read the one way bearing is  a common false when using the roto start for some reason. im pretty sure mine is on its way out but i think that my fault as a had a hard time getting it started when i got it and may have damaged it... i find the quickest way to start mine with roto start is just give it quick 2-3 second bursts and it usually starts teh second or third try. With all the bearing failure makes me wonder if dirt is getting into them... after a few runs i strip mine down and clean and lube everything...
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: JohnP2

How many gallons does the engine have? I've heard waaaay too many stories about the OWB. Mine has only about eight tanks in it....but just waiting for the OWB to go out. I wonder if that roto-start has anything to do with it?

What, specifically is wrong with the piston/sleeve? Also, $45 seems pretty inexpensive to replace the piston/sleeve.

Thanks!
not too sure about gallons, second hand. got it at a good price.

owb is definately gone. thats around $20 with taxes to buy locally.

the piston and sleeve is based on price on ebay shipped to canada... the lowest recent one is 30+5 shipping. 45 is conservative

piston and sleeve might be worn. just did a pitch test but i has no idea how hard to push
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Zrock

45 seems pretty cheep... for my 5.9 its $100 or more...From everything i have read the one way bearing is a common false when using the roto start for some reason. im pretty sure mine is on its way out but i think that my fault as a had a hard time getting it started when i got it and may have damaged it... i find the quickest way to start mine with roto start is just give it quick 2-3 second bursts and it usually starts teh second or third try. With all the bearing failure makes me wonder if dirt is getting into them... after a few runs i strip mine down and clean and lube everything...
its around 60 shipped for a 5.9

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HPI-15289-Cyl...#ht_4568wt_878

however if i do spend $20 + 45 on the bearing and piston and sleeve, i minus whale buy a whole new engine for a bit more?

im looking at something under $200 and has my eyes on the zr 30x. i do need to spend $45 more for a pull start for that engine if i do.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:20 PM
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Default RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

Get a new engine. Losi 454 or Dynamite Big Red .28. The Losis you can get cheap on ebay.. You may need a Losi Spin Start unit though.. They're THE most reliable way to start an MT engine anyway IMHO....
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:53 PM
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beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid the additional fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:18 AM
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ORIGINAL: Zrock

beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid the additional fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:39 AM
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not nesisarily... i had a $75 pair of headlights and i got dinged $65 in border fees and that was through USPS.. When dealing with EBAY i always contact the seller and get a few more details. Usually if they are a top rated seller they are more than happy to help. It has saved me money

Quote:
ORIGINAL: qaz393


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Zrock

beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid theadditionalfees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Zrock

not nesisarily... i had a $75 pair of headlights and i got dinged $65 in border fees and that was through USPS.. When dealing with EBAY i always contact the seller and get a few more details. Usually if they are a top rated seller they are more than happy to help. It has saved me money

Quote:
ORIGINAL: qaz393


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Zrock

beware of over the border sales... you may end up paying more in brokerage and fees than the part may be worth. Looks like a good seller but as far as i know purolator is the only shipping company that includes all fees in their price so their is no surprises when you get it. from a few smaller purchases i have made off ebay for camera gear the shipper marked it as a gift as well. or keep the price under $20 including tax to avoid the additional fees... may want to contact seller and see if you can get a price with all fee's
just stick with USPS. avoid ups/fedex and you will be fine. usps doesnt get taxed below 200 for where i live usually
that doesnt make sense. i buy so much an never get taxed....

65 dollars is over 70% taxes. did u look at the breakdown on ur invoice?
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
Anybody with a pullstart on a bigblock knows what it's like to be out in a field somewhere and yank on a pullstart, and either have it break, not recoil, or slip. Plus they just make starting significantly harder. Sometimes you just need a more extended blast with a Rotostart or box. Some people may be able to live with them, but afaic pullstarts are a curse for the vast majority of people. Anybody out there new to nitro, if your BB engine is pullstart, do yourself a favor and convert to Rotostart.
So you would rather lug around a roto-start and have more batteries that you need to worry about charging? People that are new to the hobby may like the roto-start, but they can easily damage the OWB and/or shaft by over cranking from frustration. A higher ''rpm'' from the roto-start or a drill doesn't necessarily mean that it'll start, especially if the tune is out of whack or if there are any air leaks. I've never had a pull start fail, except for when I took one apart for the heck of it and wasn't able to recoil it perfectly. The reason that a pull start can slip is the exact reason that it can slip with a roto-start, and that is the OWB being soaked with fuel and/or being worn out. As far as the cord breaking, that again would most likely be from getting soaked with fuel and softening it up.


Get in touch with supertib. He lives in Canada and I'm sure that he'd be willing to work with you on a motor.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:02 PM
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Default RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

le sad

bought a rebuild kit and a zr30x + pull start + pullstart backplate

which one to use? probably gonna sell rebuild kit + f4.6
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: PrjctStrtFrce

Quote:
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
Anybody with a pullstart on a bigblock knows what it's like to be out in a field somewhere and yank on a pullstart, and either have it break, not recoil, or slip. Plus they just make starting significantly harder. Sometimes you just need a more extended blast with a Rotostart or box. Some people may be able to live with them, but afaic pullstarts are a curse for the vast majority of people. Anybody out there new to nitro, if your BB engine is pullstart, do yourself a favor and convert to Rotostart.
So you would rather lug around a roto-start and have more batteries that you need to worry about charging? People that are new to the hobby may like the roto-start, but they can easily damage the OWB and/or shaft by over cranking from frustration. A higher ''rpm'' from the roto-start or a drill doesn't necessarily mean that it'll start, especially if the tune is out of whack or if there are any air leaks. I've never had a pull start fail, except for when I took one apart for the heck of it and wasn't able to recoil it perfectly. The reason that a pull start can slip is the exact reason that it can slip with a roto-start, and that is the OWB being soaked with fuel and/or being worn out. As far as the cord breaking, that again would most likely be from getting soaked with fuel and softening it up.


Get in touch with supertib. He lives in Canada and I'm sure that he'd be willing to work with you on a motor.
ya i now learn to loosen glow plug a bit for start up. my engine ran like crap today. didnt want to bother with it so i put it away. so lazy

im new to this and i rather have a pull start just so i can leave a glow igniter in my pocket and start the truck where ever i like without lugging more excess stuff.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:14 PM
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Default RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:40 PM
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Default RE: Bad Engine, Decisions

Creative and I'm sure effective, but that is a constant added rotating mass that makes the motor loose some power.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:55 AM
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I just think its a great idea for an RTR motor
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:04 AM
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Need a tuned pipe now. i have an hpi aluminum but i think i can do better. both gasket header and pipe are shot. needs new so might as well yolo it.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: supertib


Quote:
ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
there is an internal clicker mechanism that prevents it from powering the roto gear.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: qaz393


Quote:
ORIGINAL: supertib


Quote:
ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]

so that means all the roto gears will be spinning when the engine is running ? to me that doesn't sound like a very good idea ..would be interesting to see the long run effects of that setup......very creative, but I fail to see the logic there
there is an internal clicker mechanism that prevents it from powering the roto gear.
like on a Force 28 .....okay I understand
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:07 AM
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That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:26 AM
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yep good idea untill you try to get it off after the engine has started. You would have to keep it spinning and hop it dosent jamb when u pull off
Quote:
ORIGINAL: yakfish

That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Zrock

yep good idea untill you try to get it off after the engine has started. You would have to keep it spinning and hop it dosent jamb when u pull off
Quote:
ORIGINAL: yakfish

That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
the nut does not spin with the engine. there is a one way mechanism that makes the crank now power the starter
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf3o4Oj2go[/youtube]
Good idea,Love the stand too.Who makes it and how much?
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: yakfish

That looks like a much more reliable system than a OWB. But what if you were to completely remove the entire rotostartand just leave the nut? You could just attatch a socket to your drill and just start it with the nut. No added rotating mass, less moving parts to fail.
Exactly how i start my F4.6 equipped revo. Works like a charm. I wanted to use the trx mount kit instead of the new era. With the rrx mount kit the start shaft on an F4.6 just clears the are but a roto/pullstart wont. When the engine starts i just pull the socket off. What alot of people dont realize it the shaft that comes out of the back off the engine doesnt even spin when running. Wouldnt matter anyways cause your using a one way bearing. None the less you can grab that shaft with the engine running. Except on trx engines and probably some other mills its keyed directly to the crank. On the f series engines they use the sping and pin system. Also a revo with a F4.6 tuned nicely friggin flyes!!!
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