Summit is Beast!!!

I was givin this Savage 25....





I hate nitro not to mention its $40 a gallon. I want to convert it to electric unless its gonna cost like $300-$400. Id rather just put a few more $100 with that and get a new 1 if so. What all would I need besides the obvious(bl motor,esc)?

Foxy

Its no small task, as many who have tried to do it cheaply will tell you. Either get the full flux brushless conversion kit (includes genuine 6S Castle electrics), or buy all the required parts if you already have a motor and esc you want to use. With electrics you are looking at easily $400. Without, it could still run you $250 minimum. Then you need all the other upgrades to make it reliable under brushless power (another $50 to $100 minimum).

This is one conversion that is far from cheap.

You could try RC Monster for some cheaper hand made parts to do the conversion, but the result may not be all you had hoped for. The main thing that even the fluxes need is a proper 17mm buggy/truggy hex. Integy makes some. this will prevent the brrushless torque literally spinning the wheels off the axles, which is amusing the first couple of times, but rapidly gets mighty annoying.

SyCo_VeNoM

here is step by step guide to the most simple, and economical way to convert it to brushless
type in Ebay.com
login
click on sell
put the pic you have there
hope it sells for $150-200
get money
go to towerhobbies.com(or whatever site you like) type in savage flux
click buy
wait 4-5 days
open
conversion done


That is my recommendation as I did a conversion from a .21 to a flux... its not cheap, or easy, and costs more than the savage flux in the end as you need to buy most the parts anyways.
in the end on my conversion the parts still from the savage .21 are the tranny (not even all the gears in it), arms, and bumpers
lets see what I spent
$100 on diffs, $40 on dogbones, $20+ on axles(trust me the old savages can't take brushless power they will twist in seconds), cups, $10 radio box, $25 5mm TVP's (got them cheap cause they were new think they are now $40), $250 on a CC MM setup(which I ended up replacing with a $200 HW setup cause it sucked ass in the savage), $25 on motor plate just to name what I can think of off the top of my head, $30 battery box's. In the end it cost me somewhere between $400-$500 after shipping to convert the savage, and that is not counting the $150 I spent on the savage itself where I could have just bought one complete, and also note a lot of those prices went up since I did it like the motor and ESC prices.

Summit is Beast!!!

Lmao good idea!

JohnP2

You gonna sell the motor/clutch on that? If so let me PM me and we can negotiate. Thanks

Foxy

John, as you are a model member, I'll let that slide, but it's not allowed. Next time PM please. Thanks bud.

john2364

I saw this post and it really depends on what you want. I am about to do this conversion, but really I only want speeds as good as the current nitro motor. I am mostly just interesting in the ease and reliability of electric. Bear in mind that I have a metal capable band saw as well as a dremmel and drill.



1) motor: hoging with hobbyking 120a esc and turnigy motor. Total cost is about 90$
2) batteries: using 4s 5000 mah. will run me about $38
3) battery trays" I am using some angle alloy stock and velcro. (super simple to make. just cut to length and drill holes). Cost: $1.50
4) Motor mount: again cutting out of 6061 4m angle alloy stock. (a little more challenging than the battery trays but still not super hard) $.50
5) pinion: $3.81 on hobby king.
6) shipping: 20
Total cost shipped: $153.81


Issues to overcome

Tourqe: I am on a x ss so my drive train is already pretty strong. Nonetheless, I do not care for that much torque so I will just gear it down. I have no desire for standing backflips or anything like that.
brakes: put the old throttle servo on my 3rd channel and mix it with the 2nd.

Foxy

You don't need to worry about brakes. The electric brake will be fine, my Flux used to do a forward roll if I stood on the brakes. You only need one servo. If you gear it down, you'll have heat. IF you gear it up you'll have wheelies. You absolutely must replace the gearbox drive gear with the HPI HD drive gear. Are the diffs the bulletproof type? If not, they need to be if you plan to do any jumping. Crank the slipper right down, you have no choice, brushless will melt it in short order if you don't, you'll just be constantly replacing the pad.

Hope it works out for you.

john2364

So when you say crank down the drive gear, do I need to tighten or loosen the Drive gear?

pipedup

Tighten it down, you don't want it to slip at all or you will just wear out the pad.

john2364

Will do, thanks for the advice .