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HPI Savage XL Powered by Gasoline Engine Release Date?

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Old 03-12-2014, 07:44 AM
  #51
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for the price i would rather go for the baja 1/5th
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:13 PM
  #52
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it will be slow, my money says the savage x f4.6 eats it.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:19 PM
  #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turok007 View Post
for the price i would rather go for the baja 1/5th
never thought of it that way.....

bro, the Losi DBXL looks killer!
tuned pipe and hold on
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:11 PM
  #54
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Lightbulb savage 5T??? savage XL: upgrades, conversion, and updates


hello all i have a older savage XL 5.9 and i just want to be sure about some things......

i hear an old version of the savage XL got discontinued. but i looked at the new XLs they make today, and they seem to look like the same truck.
but in my experience with this hobby they change alot of the small things that matter alot. so my question is. did they make any changes i need to know about? all i see is a 2.4 radio

also i have seen something around about a savage x or savage XL converted into a hybrid savage XL / Baja 5T or savage 5T
and can i make my older savage XL into this freak of an RC Savage 5T?!?!?!






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Old 04-03-2014, 11:14 AM
  #55
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Back on Towers website... says early May
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:38 AM
  #56
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Amain has it also.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:23 AM
  #57
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U can buy them new off eBay ATM
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:26 AM
  #58
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http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/109073
THey've got the info up on the HPI website now with 2 new videos. Looks purty. :-)
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:12 PM
  #59
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Here's the lucky guy in Europe...doing an un boxing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ViJCBk9EGs
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:20 AM
  #60
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Just got off the phone with Tower
mine ships this week
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:52 PM
  #61
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May I ask how is yours running?
So far I couldn't be more disappointed. I've had several issues and it's now on the shelf in pieces waiting for parts (which aren't available yet). I'm not the only one either. I've had contact with guys from in the US, Norway, and Belgium and the vast majority are not running right....if they run at all.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:15 PM
  #62
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I'm really sorry to hear that man. I was excited about this truck too. HPI has always taken care of me when I needed customer support so I'm sure they will get the problem fixed.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:43 PM
  #63
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Wow, I am so glad I waited.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:34 PM
  #64
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they have one at my local Hobbytown and it looks sick!

what are the issues you guys are having with it?

thanks
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:39 PM
  #65
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My truck ran ok during the first tank, but after that the truck has progressively run worse. It's to the point now where it won't even run. I have tried just about everything. I have called Hobbico and they are planing on sending me a new CDI box whenever they become available. I asked when that might be and they had no definite answer.
So far.....
1. Reset carb to factory settings (this has been checked and rechecked more than I can count)
2. Pull plug and clean
3. Replace plug with new
4. Pull plug and close gap from .6mm to .5mm per HPI updated recommendation
5. Pull motor from chassis and verify setting on ignition sensor (it was ok).
6. Troubleshoot for air leaks (none found)
7. Try running no air cleaner
8. Remove restrictor on opening of carb

I'm at a loss.....and HPI really isn't responding to my questions. Hobbico has been decent to deal with but they have no idea what to do and like I said there are no parts available yet.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:01 AM
  #66
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Steve here... tech service had me send them my ignition box. Mine ran like alot of the trucks on utube... can't imagine its carb related... The motor won't get on the pipe and babels like its sic rich, no matter what you do with the carb settings, it won't clean out. As erratic as it is its got to be electrical. I expected issues with a brand new rig... I'm fine with it, This truck is a got to have
I'll post a vid when I get it running, Hopefully they get it sorted out soon
Steve
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:08 PM
  #67
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Where are you located Steve and who exactly have you spoken with? I've only been able to talk to Hobbico and they were no help really.
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:22 AM
  #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 376LSX View Post
Where are you located Steve and who exactly have you spoken with? I've only been able to talk to Hobbico and they were no help really.
Im in Wisconsin. I talked to a guy at Hobbico as well. I told him how it was running, he put me on hold for a minute, when he came back he told me to send them my ignition.
This is a copy of the letter I send along with my ignition.
Steve

per phone conversation I have enclosed my ignition module from my Octane. The engine will not rev and get on the pipe, I have adjusted the carb per the leaflet, and beyond. After break in I was able to get it to shift a few times into second but never 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gear. It progressively got worse. The truck has maybe 4 tanks it does run just not well enough to get the truck to shift The truck would die once and a while But would always restart. The top of the piston looks new and wet with no burn pattern on like its been idle around for a week. The truck cold would usually start after one choked pull and then no choke. Warm it would take a half dozen.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:39 AM
  #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 376LSX View Post
7. Try running no air cleaner
8. Remove restrictor on opening of carb
You seem to be pretty experienced in nitro, what told you that these ideas would be good? Just asking, because running w/o an air filter usually means dust and stuff gets inside the engine, which is...just bad and usually voids the warranty. Also, the carb settings rely on the restrictor, if you remove that you change the carb completely.

There's a playlist of videos on the Octane kit page http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/109073 that detail what to do in the case of problems, plus a really detailed PDF (just updated today). The spark plug gap should be between 0.3mm and 0.4mm and there's now a really detailed series of steps that tell you how to test the CDI unit.

Most people on Youtube are adjusting the carb as if they're working on a nitro engine, which is not good - the high speed needle (and only the high speed needle) should be adjusted no more than 1/24 of a turn, not a 1/4 turn or more like some people are doing. See the Hemistorm videos for what he's figured out on tuning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWQytW84F14 (basically, he ran a high-oil mix, tuned it 1/36 of a turn at a time and the engine was still breaking in after 20+ tanks) - here is his truck as of a few days ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtkiIup_TfU and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyn9EOIaQLQ
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:06 PM
  #70
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Do they say what oil mix ratio to use?
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:54 PM
  #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srt10 View Post
Do they say what oil mix ratio to use?
25:1 always, although Hemistorm Chris recommends using a higher ratio of oil so the engine has an easier time breaking in.

Here is the link for the Octane Running Tips PDF which has all the details for breaking in, tuning, troubleshooting and even testing the CDI unit, which many people seem to blame for the running issues: http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/docu...nning_tips.pdf it seems the problems come mostly from not breaking in the engine long enough (20+ tanks and you will start seeing the engine get more and more powerful), dead spark plug, bad spark plug gap and also 'tuning' the engine way too much.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:21 AM
  #72
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Guys that use synthetic oil in their gas mix will notice it takes significantly longer for the ring to seat and the engine to break in. If the manual states to use synthetic oil, don't buy into it for break-in. The ring needs some friction to wear into the cylinder to seat and seal properly and mineral oil allows this significantly better than synthetic. Something else to note; some of the newer engine offerings from China and other parts of Asia are known to have incredibly hard piston rings that take a long time to seat if they ever actually do seat. Taking 20 tanks even if the tanks were 8oz is a ridiculously long time for a ring to seat. It shouldn't take more than 1/2-3/4 gallon of gas to seat a ring. If I were running one of these engines personally, I'd be ordering a new piston ring from Frank Bowman. His rings are world renowned for breaking in fast, raising the compression a tad, and making more power. Many airplane folks change out and install Frank's rings in engines that haven't even ran one time out of the box!

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:57 PM
  #73
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Don't take this the wrong way people(I truly wished it would have worked as I thought it was a cool idea), but this vehicle sounds like its a turd from the get go.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:57 PM
  #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SyCo_VeNoM View Post
Don't take this the wrong way people(I truly wished it would have worked as I thought it was a cool idea), but this vehicle sounds like its a turd from the get go.
You're entitled to your opinion, but watch the video links I posted above (especially the last 2) to see what it can do when fully broken in and tuned properly.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:22 AM
  #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krushgroove View Post
You're entitled to your opinion, but watch the video links I posted above (especially the last 2) to see what it can do when fully broken in and tuned properly.
nono I agree its pretty neat if you can get it working properly as its performance is damn close to a nitro, but it seems there are quite a few issues which is why I said it seems like its a turd. Honestly I want this to work well so it could get cheaper, and potentially phase out nitro engines as in comparison there doesn't seem to be any real performance edge(maybe in racing there might be, I'm looking at it purely as bashing) to nitro as the gas would make things easier, and cheaper to run.
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