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TWIN TRUCKZILLA parts needed...

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Old 03-14-2017, 02:45 PM
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hooleydog
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Default TWIN TRUCKZILLA parts needed...

Hi All. I'm looking for these parts. can anyone point me in the right direction..

Thanks..

#HB70504 - ENGINE MOUNT (L)

#HB70505 - ENGINE MOUNT SET RH TWIN TRUCKZILLA

# HB70518 - THROTTLE LINKAGE PARTS SET TWIN TRUCKZILLA

# HB70503 - ENGINE PLATE TWIN TRUCKZILLA

# HB70517 - FUEL TANK TWIN TRUCKZILLA 300CC
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:38 PM
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If any one can come up with all the parts needed. Except for the chassis I'll trade a brand new K5.9 motor...

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Old 03-21-2017, 06:23 AM
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Hello, I'm new to the site. However I suspect it may be very hard to locate the parts you're wanting haha. It has been hard enough for me finding the 4.6 parts. Good luck
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:22 PM
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Guy's I found all the parts to change my Savage into a Truckzilla. Including the monster .46 engine (Chassis side plates too). You see I already had the Chassis side plates, motor mount and the disk brakes. muffler. (Which I didn't know that the Truckzilla used them)..Till I looked at the user manual , and got the rest from eBay.. However I'm gonna use these plates. But they are about 1 inch longer than the Truckzilla ones (From the gearbox to the front), so how long should the the center bog front bone be..

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Oh getnbze.You a defeatest as if you look hard enought. You can find any savage parts. You see I have a box full of Savage parts (Weighs 35 pounds).. Sh**t. I have even found parts for my early 80's buggy's..... That I am restoring..
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:58 AM
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I like the looks of that frame! Since writing you last I blew the .46 engine up on me Truckzilla...... I don't know what happened. It wasn't to lean or overheating but I broke the connecting rod, and end of the crank. It scuffed the piston on the skirts but I can't find a piston. I have been thinking of swapping a different engine into it, something I can easily get parts for. And fix the Truckzilla engine and set it aside. As far as your needing help with the front dog bone, do you need a measurement from my truck?
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Old 04-01-2017, 05:02 AM
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Broken rods happen most often due to improper carburetor settings, poor or improper fuel, and over-revving. .46 sized engines aren't designed for high rpm in most cases. Most of them are setup for 18,000-20,000rpm tops. A combination of too many rpm and improper fuel can shorten the life of an engine considerably.

What brand of engine is this .46 you blew up?
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:10 AM
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Sorry to hear that you blew up your .46. But did you know that there are rods for sale on eBay (I bought a spare), as for the frames that I gonna use.. They are not the hot bodies ones (Though I do have them). It's just that they are thicker (4mm) and longer too, as for the engine.. Yeah How long is your front dog bone. You see the plates came with just the rear one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282240064579...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Oh. Will a K5.9 roto start back part fit this engine, and your right the .46 engine's top rpm is only 20,000. But has lots of torque and power (nearly 4bhp)
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:33 AM
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If you have deep pockets...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hot-bodies-tru....c100408.m2460

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Old 04-01-2017, 03:06 PM
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Yep I saw that. But lucky I don't need any of them..

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Old 04-01-2017, 04:24 PM
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Guys here's the correct chassis side plates for the Truckzilla and the price is good too. Since they are Billet Heat Sink

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172413542207...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 04-06-2017, 04:07 PM
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Guy's I received my Truckzilla .46 motor but what a bummer (You see the motor was hardly run). But anyway, I took the head off (To look at the piston) and found that the top of the piston head was all chewed up (Head button too) ARRRRR!!, so I removed the back plate and notice that the rear bearing had failed (It was missing a few steel balls). But all was not lost (I hope)..Unable to find a replacement, I had a couple of thou skimmed from the top of the piston (But head button was beyond any help), so I ordered a Gen GST 7.7 one (It should fit, as it's the same size motor)... Lucky the sleeve was not damaged.. What would cause the rear bearing to fail, in a short run time.....

Here's some pics of the piston top skimmed and the failed bearing too...
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:33 PM
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The ball retainer failed. Hopefully there's a head shim that can be removed so the squish height stays close to the same since the piston top was milled down. You may have been better off leaving it alone and just running it.
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:07 AM
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There is a head shim. But I had to skim the piston top because the top was too damage to run (Alloy bit's might have come off it while running)..

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Old 04-07-2017, 06:14 AM
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Depending on how much you took off the piston, you probably will want to adjust the head shim thickness to compensate. The heat spacing should be .4mm minimum. If much over .5mm, the engine will not be running as strong as it is capable of.
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Old 04-07-2017, 10:41 AM
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Ok. Though I did have to skim quite a bit of the piston. But I was lucky enough to get another motor, so I'll use this one for parts.. Oh I could make a thin disk that will go on the top of the head button, as that would lower the head button (That I bought) and make the squish height closer. That would work eh???

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Old 04-08-2017, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
Ok. Though I did have to skim quite a bit of the piston. But I was lucky enough to get another motor, so I'll use this one for parts.. Oh I could make a thin disk that will go on the top of the head button, as that would lower the head button (That I bought) and make the squish height closer. That would work eh???

How much taken off the piston? Take that amount and remove it from the head shim total thickness. If you took off more than the thickness of the shim, run it without the shim. If you can have the head modified by a machinist, you could machine the head to take up the rest of the height.
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
How much taken off the piston? Take that amount and remove it from the head shim total thickness. If you took off more than the thickness of the shim, run it without the shim. If you can have the head modified by a machinist, you could machine the head to take up the rest of the height.
I took 2 thickness shims off the piston top... Oh, What part does the head has to be modified (If I go that route)...

Last edited by hooleydog; 04-08-2017 at 05:33 AM. Reason: If I go that route
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
I took 2 thickness shims off the piston top... Oh, What part does the head has to be modified (If I go that route)...
You would either mill the cylinder head to sit deeper in the liner or mill the top of the liner. You took too much off the piston. That is if you took 2 X .2mm shims worth off, that's almost .015"!! That is going to play hell with the timing of the ports now. You should instead mill the crankcase deck or bottom of lip of liner so the liner is going to be in the correct timing in regard to the piston being shorter. I've actually done this before, but you need a mill to do it. https://youtu.be/4sfmdaS893Y

Milling the piston down at all changes the timing.. Take a lot off and the engine may not even be tunable.
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
You would either mill the cylinder head to sit deeper in the liner or mill the top of the liner. You took too much off the piston. That is if you took 2 X .2mm shims worth off, that's almost .015"!! That is going to play hell with the timing of the ports now. You should instead mill the crankcase deck or bottom of lip of liner so the liner is going to be in the correct timing in regard to the piston being shorter. I've actually done this before, but you need a mill to do it. https://youtu.be/4sfmdaS893Y

Milling the piston down at all changes the timing.. Take a lot off and the engine may not even be tunable.

Milling the top of the crankcase would be hard for me to do. Could I send it to you, so you could get it done for me. I'll pay you to do it.. Shipping too..

Mike..
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
Milling the top of the crankcase would be hard for me to do. Could I send it to you, so you could get it done for me. I'll pay you to do it.. Shipping too..

Mike..
I wish I had a mill - my buddy milled my crankcase for me and he has since moved back to Texas. You'll want to find someone locally to do the work for you. In reality, it shouldn't be that pricey.

I'll talk to my buddy in Texas and see if he'd do me a favor and mill your case for you. No promises, but I'll see what I can do to help.

Curious - how did you shave the piston crown down?
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Old 04-09-2017, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
I wish I had a mill - my buddy milled my crankcase for me and he has since moved back to Texas. You'll want to find someone locally to do the work for you. In reality, it shouldn't be that pricey.

I'll talk to my buddy in Texas and see if he'd do me a favor and mill your case for you. No promises, but I'll see what I can do to help.

Curious - how did you shave the piston crown down?
Ok Thanks. as for shaving the top of the piston crown down. Errr, I used the liner, as a guide to get the piston crown flat, and with the piston in the liner (I just use very fine 600 grit sandpaper) . With the liner on a glass plate (Nice and flat surface) , I pushed down on the piston and just twisting it in a circle till all the top of the piston was smooth again... That way , I was able to remove some off the top, and the piston top was still flat (I moved the piston to the top of the liner to feel and see too).. Oh I forgot . The head button just sits flat on the top of the liner, so shaving the head or crankcase top will not close the gap between the piston crown to the head button. The only way I think is to shave a bit from under the head button (Outside then inwards) to the diameter of the inside of the liner. That way it fit 2 shims into the liner like the GEN GST 7.7 head button does (Same size motor)....

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Old 04-10-2017, 05:06 AM
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Then you'd need to mill off the bottom of the liner. What you're trying to do is adjust the height of the liner to maintain the original port timing. Since the top of the piston is shorter than it was stock, the timing has changed as well as the squish height. Moving the liner down to match the original timing it will then make your squish height (head clearance) correct.

My my original thought applied to an engine with the liner sitting above the crankcase deck. Milling the deck down would drop the liner and correct the head clearance. If the liner is recessed into the crankcase as I suspect here, milling the bottom lip of the liner is the answer.
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Old 04-10-2017, 03:06 PM
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Yep. The liner is recessed into the crankcase, so milling the bottom lip of the liner will lower it down, and correct the squish height....

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Old 04-10-2017, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooleydog View Post
Yep. The liner is recessed into the crankcase, so milling the bottom lip of the liner will lower it down, and correct the squish height....
Yes it will correct the squish height and it will also put the piston into the correct timing position. You have to mill the bottom of the lip of the liner - the part that rests on top of the crankcase within the recess of the case.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
Yes it will correct the squish height and it will also put the piston into the correct timing position. You have to mill the bottom of the lip of the liner - the part that rests on top of the crankcase within the recess of the case.
Ok. Though I hope that you can get it done for me. But I do have another motor coming..
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