Bluebrew

My Feedback: (1)

I've just finished building the SavageSS kit(very.very pleased with all aspects of this truck),broke in the s25 engine as instucted and to my great suprise,everything worked fine!Once the engine loosened up I leaned it out a little and now she really scoots.I ran 4 tanks through and it never missed a beat.I let my friend take it for a while and he up-ended it in a rhubarb patch and it quit(Thankfully).It was really flooded so I pulled the plug and cleared it out.By the time I got it started again it had cooled down.After idling about 15 secs, it suddenly redlines! The radio is off, the throttle is closed(looking down the throat)and yet it's screamin'. So we gave it a rest, tossed down a beer and tried again. Started fine, idled good and then redlined again! I'm thinking massive air leak under hot conditions, but where is it getting that much fuel?I'd like to hear what you guy's think before I pull the engine back out. Thanks for any help. Paul

viperspeed333

Was your radio off, but receiever on? If you were gonna run it, sometimes that messes with the reciever on your truck and puts it into full throttle. First of all, you need to get a failsafe. Second, when you say the throttle was closed, are you talking about the carburator being closed? If the carb is closed, then no fuel should be going into the engine, and thus, it could never haul like that.

Bluebrew

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Viper!Both TX andRX were off. The slide barrell is against the idle stop(with air filter out, looking into carb). I even unhooked the linkage to let the return spring hold throttle closed.Like I said I suspect a big air leak(maybe back cover seal), but what confuses me is where is it gettin' all that fuel from. Makes me wonder if the crankcase is full of fuel which would mean it's still too rich. Ya know what...now I wonder if it "hydro-locked" and blew a seal? I'm unfamiliar with failsafes, but it doe's sound like a must have! Also might get some kind of thermometer. Ah heck, I'm just gonna tear into it and see what I find! Thanks for the comeback, I'll letya know.

viperspeed333

No prob...the thing is I dont see how a air leak can cause a sudden full throttle switch. I would suggest unhooking the fuel line, and then putting the glow starter on and starting the engine, so that any left over fuel inside the engine will first be used up. Then see what happens. As for failsafes, I have the Race Guard Micro Fail-Safe from Dynamite on my savage ss and RS4 ss.

For temp guns, I have used this, and it has proved very helpful during breakins and sometimes for tuning.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML

Hope that helps. Good luck.

Twobeers

There are no seals to be blown by hydrolocking this kind of motor. Go thru readjusting the needles on your carb as per the manual, especially the idle speed needle. If the idle speed needle is off you will be forever cranking the needles endlessly untill the threads and seals go the way of the dinosaur. While your at it check and make sure the head hasn't come loose.

Polar_Bus

I don't know what your return spring setup looks like, but here's my possibility: I think when you disconnected the throttle linkage there was not enough return tension to keep the slide shut at idle. When the carb is new, the rubber carb slide boot can easily force the slide open to 1/2 throttle or more. It's hard by not being able to see your truck.I am just throwing out a guess. An engine even in bad tune with a massive air leak really can't reach upper rpm's like you described. All a carburator is, is a "controled air leak" Before I rigged up a modified reliable throttle return spring, I had this exact situation happen to me. Hope you find your issue,
Rich

Bluebrew

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, I had to pull the engine anyway because the spur gear got ate up in all this commotion! In the process of that replacement I discovered that the steel plate of the slipper assy. was basically "glued" to the clutch disc. No wonder it got chewed up! On to the engine. Nuthin' blown out, everything tight, so I set the needles to post breakin specs and lined up the cogs. On Mr. Bus's advice I took a close look at the return spring.Oh dear, installed as I had it (per instructions) the spring did nothing! Also noticed that the boot did push the throttle open. Took action to make spring comply.I'm Convinced the loose spring and mis- diagnosis where the problems cuz she's more savage than ever now!Thanks to all.

Polar_Bus

If you currently have the throttle spring wraped around the carb throat, it needs to be re-located. I attached the small hook end (that currently hooks the ball for the throttle slide, to the plastic linkage pivot arm. Then cut and bend as necessary the other end of the spring, and connect that to the aluminum roll bar (you will need to drill a small hole in the roll bar) Now the linkage will work awesome. In the future, I highly recommend adapting two Ofna slider linkages in place of the stock POS setup. I wish I could post up a pic of my setup, but I cant seem to get my digital camera driver to comply with my new Windows Office pro. Good luck,
Rich