samtron

i need some help plz i was changing my clucth bell today and when i was tightning my screw down the screw head broke and the screw is in the part that holds the clucth bell on,how can i get it out plz help[]

cemeb4dk

check www.savage-central.com I think on their main home page about half way down there is a thread about how to fix.

Hope this helps

stevblutu15

can you get a pair of vice grips on it?

samtron

thx cem i will check it out stev it is down in the crank shaft i cant get nothing on it and that sucks[:@] i thouth of that to but no luke

samtron

anybody else got any ideals

samtron

nobody knows how to get it out

stevblutu15

well, if worst comes to worts, try drilling it out, and re tapping the hole. thats the only thing i can think of. i would hate to do it whough

AddictedtoRC

I broke mine off the same way, I put the engine in my drill press and drilled the screw, go with a bit that is smaller than the screw, then go up a size, keep going until there is barely anything left of the screw, you should be able to clean whats left of the screw out with a pick, if your lucky you won't damage the threads, if you can't get it then you may have to buy a new crankshaft, I got onw off ebay for $20, use it for a back up. Good luck with that screw.

samtron

thanks every one for your help i will try to drill it out

rustler 1

vacum it out lol

Savage_Dias

Sears sells a tap that will pull stripped screws out. I don't know for sure if they have one that small though.

stevblutu15

it isnt a stripped screw, the head is off the screw. if it were stripped he could get vice grips on it right?

cemeb4dk

This repair is NOT for the faint of heart and is meant specifically for SG crankshafts using stock HPI clutch bells. This should be considered a 'last resort' fix. Do this at your own risk. Neither I nor Savage-Central are responsible for any further damage to your engine. Also the number of shims and measurements, etc in this tutorial are for my particular WASP and clutch setup. You will need to do your own dry fittings and measurements for your particular engine/clutch configuration, but this will get you in the ball park. NOTE: You will be dealing with fine metal grindings here. Do your self a favor and plug your carb intake and the exhaust port. Make sure the glow plug is in as well. The last thing you want after this is metal grindings in your cylinder.

Parts Needed:
1 Dremmel Tool w/ Cutting Wheel
1 OFNA Clutch Shim Kit (Part# 10099)
1 XTM Clutch Nut Pilot Adapter (Part# 233220)

Procedure:
Step One: Gathering The Parts
This is how I started off. You can see the end of the crankshaft with the screw broken off and the attempted drillout.

Here are the parts bags...

Get all the parts and the Dremmel tool ready. For my particular needs I pulled the shims seen below from the OFNA kit. Your shims may vary, but try my setup first. I have an eNVy 3 shoe flywheel.

Before we go further here's a quick comparison of the different pilot adapters and the stock clutch nut. On the left is the stock nut, center is the XTM nut and for comparison only is the OFNA nut (right). You can clearly see there is a big difference in length and shoe spring groove position. FYI the OFNA nut is way too long for this repair, trust me I've tried it. Traxxas makes a pilot nut adapter as well, but I didn't have one to compare.

Here's another comparison of lengths after I made my crank cut... it's not exact, but close enough for you to see the importance of the shim kit.

Step Two: Shim Check
You will need to double check your nut shimming before you proceed. As you can see below that I need probably two of the brass shims between the flywheel and the clutch nut. These will also be needed for the pilot adapter since the spring groove is in the same position on both nuts.

Step Three: Cutting The Crankshaft
Ok here comes the scary part. Remove everything from the crankshaft. Flywheel, collet, everything. Take the stock clutch nut and screw it on the crankshaft all the way until it bottoms out and can't be turned any further. You only need to hand turn it. The exposed threads all the way to the end of the shaft is what you will be cutting off.

Using the top of the nut as a guide, CAREFULLY begin cutting the shaft using the Dremmel tool. Be sure to stay straight. The nut will help. Also take your time here, there's no rush. Cut from only one side as well. This will help avoid burrs on the end of the shaft.

After you have made the cut you can use the Dremmel to grind off any imperfections. basically just make it flat and even with the top of the nut. DO NOT GRIND THE NUT!

After you get everything cleaned up remove the clutch nut. As it backs off the shaft it will straighten out any thread problems. Voila! A trimmed crankshaft ready for reassembly with the new parts.

Do a dry test fitting of the pilot adapter on the length of threads on the shaft. The adapter should not bottom out brfor reaching the end of the threads. If it does, then you may need to trim some more off the shaft.

Step Four: Reassembly
You've made it through the roughest part. Now it's just like a regular clutch assembly except you have a stubby crankshaft. Let's get to it. Start by putting on the collet. I didn't shim my collet. I tried it and it pushed the clutch bell a little too far forward into the spur gear for my liking. No shims made a better fit.

Add the flywheel and two brass shims. NOTE: Shimming will vary depending on your flywheel. This is where you really need to do some dry fittings to get the proper shimming for your flywheel and clutch bell.

Screw on the pilot adapter and tighten as you would the stock nut. Remember the flywheel should not spin on the collet.

Add your shoes and springs (yes my springs are missing in the pics).

Add the STOCK clutch bell shim that came with the truck (if you are using a stock bell).

Slide on the bell. Notice there's not much shaft left. We need to address that.

Because the shaft end is about 1/8th shorter than the stock crankshaft the stock brass bushing that goes on the end of the shaft will not work here. If you try to use it, the end screw will torque down into it, pressing against the bell bearings and binding the bell. This is critical to avoid. The end screw should pretty much end up flat against the shaft end. The bushing and end screw are just there to keep everything on the shaft so we can substitute a few shims for the bushing.

From the shims we pulled from the OFNA kit, locate the small THIN silver shim and place it on the shaft.

Then add the two larger silver shims. You can see clearly how the shims end even with the shaft end. This is what you want to see on your engine at this point. If your bushing happens to fit, great then you are set, otherwise, experiment with the shims to get things even.

Use the small BLACK shim and the small hex bolt and screw them into the shaft. Tighten, torque and lock tite as needed. WARNING: Be careful with the lock tite, it's the reason I ended up here in the first place. This keeps everything in place and adds just a tad of front to rear play in the bell. A minute amount of play is a good thing. The hex bolt is better than the stock phillips screw anyway.

There you have it! All fixed! Before you go further, you may want to do a quick blast of Nitro cleaner or air over the engine to get any metal flakes and grindings off it. Put the motor back in, mesh and crank it up. This should make the motor just like new. Others have done this repair before and report no problems. I have to thank all the SC members that contributed info, part numbers, and instructions on making this repair. I'd have a $180 paper weight if it weren't for you guys. Hope this helps you out

samtron

thx everyone i got it