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Getting savy 25 ready to race

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Old 08-15-2006, 12:03 AM
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blowpopracer
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Default Getting savy 25 ready to race

Im in the process of getting my savy25 ready to race. I have a whole slew of mods already and looking to see if any other mods are recommended. Here is what I have.

Fast Lane Machine lcg extended 1 1/2", servo mount,lcg engine mount,skid plate.
Jr 8550 digital steering servo
Mid tank conversion
Tsais axles
Integy piggy back shocks with progressive spring set.
JD Carbon Turnbuckles(on the way yet)

Any other mods u think would make it a better racer? Also looking for engine and pipe upgrade if you have any suggestions there. Price isnt as much a issue as horsepower, torque and most importantly reliability. Also with a more powerful engine would u recommend tranny upgrades or diff upgrades to hold the power? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Old 08-15-2006, 12:35 AM
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tat2d2dope
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

STS just released a .30 5 port engine, that with a fantom pipe should give you
more than enough power.
Old 08-15-2006, 12:55 AM
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suicidemachine
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

4pc spider set for diff and lose the skid plate. As for motor size, is this a club or sactioned?
Old 08-15-2006, 07:08 AM
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SAVAGEJIM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race


ORIGINAL: suicidemachine

4pc spider set for diff and lose the skid plate. As for motor size, is this a club or sactioned?
Thats true. In sanctioned racing, I think dispacemnect is limited to .21 (I'm not sure, I don't race). If this is the cas, even the S25 will disqualify you.
Old 08-15-2006, 07:51 AM
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Chronic
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

You are limted to a .28 engine in sanctioned events.

The Integy shocks are crap. They seem nice and look pretty, but you'll pull your hair out replacing bent shafts and keeping them sealed.
Old 08-15-2006, 12:09 PM
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blowpopracer
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

Thanks to all that replied. I plan on racing in a club with no engine rules or restrictions. Please keep the suggestions coming as I can really use the input.

On the engine any opinions on the rb928 or novarossi 528(I think) or jp mod vspec?
What about tranny mods, would u recommend delrin gears?

Thanks.
Old 08-15-2006, 05:32 PM
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Wizz Kid
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

plastic spurs work fine if the mesh is set right

i have an Axial .32. this motor pulls VERY hard from the mid range to the top. good for just coming out of turns on a track when you are still rolling. if you do end up racing in sanctioned events, the Axial .28 still has loads of torque, almost as much as the .32 which would still slingshot you through the mid range.

have you thought of the FLM extended arms or anti-roll bars?
Old 08-15-2006, 11:38 PM
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SAVAGEJIM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

For an engine, I personally recommend the STS D28M. If you have about $150 to sepnd, you can even get the new STS D30M. I know form experience the D28M will throw your Savage into light speed really fast and if you're not carful, you will continually wheelie and turn your Savage turtle. Also, with any of thes powerful engines (Axial, SH, LRP, STS), be sure to get hardened dogbones and other ports to keep the power on the ground and not breaking your truck components.
Old 08-15-2006, 11:41 PM
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blowpopracer
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

I have thought alot about the extended a arms and sway bars. As far as the sway bars would u do front and rear or just front? As far as the extended a arms goes Im very interested in them but concerned with how it would work on a tight track. What about the hpi upgrade kit with spindles and such?
Old 08-16-2006, 11:03 AM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

the aluminum arms on my LSP are great for tracks. zero flex and the wide stance helps alot when cornering. i think you should try both swaybars front and rear. they are a standard option on the LSP and this truck never rolls sideways or flips over. have you ever seen a revo fly around a corner? they lean HORRIBLY. im not certain on this but wouldnt the harsh leaning take the weight off the opposite-leaning-side wheels and if they left the ground, make the diff put all the power to the wheels with the least resistance?

those extended arms for the savage would be nice but 1)they would be pretty heavy 2)they may be too wide for a tight track[]. the LSP worked real well in a tight track but is a lot narrower than a extended savage. i'd say try the sway bars in a before and after fashion, maybe one at a time and see what you think.
Old 08-16-2006, 11:54 AM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

Just made a post on my race Savage. Keep in mind extended chassis takes a bigger radius to turn and is why I went with stock. I all so went with the HPI LCG chassis because other then carbon fiber is the lightest on the market.

THE PIGGY BACK SHOCKS ARE THE BIGGEST WAST OF MONEY and end up bending very easy.
Old 08-16-2006, 12:06 PM
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SAVAGEJIM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

Another thing you should consider is gear ratios. On the race track, you do not need high gear ratios since you will rarely see 40MPH (unless the track you race at is particularly big). For racing, try the 15/49 and 15/52 CB/spur combos. Feel free to experiment with higher ratios if these gears are not what you feel is best for you; It's a matter of trial and error at first.

I'm not a racer, these suggestions are based on what all of my racer friends are using as far as gear ratios. Our race track is somewhat small so you may need to up the gear ratio for the track you run on.
Old 08-16-2006, 12:35 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

I run 16/49 and you can read and see my set up here.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4630050/tm.htm
Old 08-16-2006, 12:46 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

Go with what 46u has, if you can get those parts. What I most like about his setup is that most of his upgrade parts are HPI stuff. The X stuff he has can be had for about $120 to $150 by way of the X upgrade kit.
The X easy access diff housings will be priceless especially if you need to replace a diff that has failed from the rigors of racing.
From what I understand, the X sustension parts are lighter and will help shed weight by upgrading to them.
Also, should you have to crack the tranny open for any reason at all, the X tranny case will allow you to do this without even taking off one TVP!
Even the X grab handle and engine head protecter are lighter than the old grab ar since they are made of plastic.
Old 08-16-2006, 12:52 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

i would actualy not get the tsais axles with a more powerful engine. i would get the HPI 17mm conversion with UV joints. there much more durable and they come with 17mm hexes.
Old 08-16-2006, 01:05 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race


ORIGINAL: ELITE913

i would actualy not get the tsais axles with a more powerful engine. i would get the HPI 17mm conversion with UV joints. there much more durable and they come with 17mm hexes.
HPI makes 17mm CVDs? Whoa! Do you know what part number that is?
Old 08-16-2006, 01:19 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

DId you shave the uprights? If not you will want to do that and put shock limiters on your shocks to lower your cg. I raced my 25 for awhile then I got the x and it is a big difference around the track and I have not done any mods other then tires..
Old 08-16-2006, 05:51 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race

why everyone is talking of suspension what are the best shock's for the sav other than doing the lst shock swap. Cause I got the integy piggy back's and one by one the stock shock's are going back on ( wish I would have really asked around before getting them ) because it is the biggest waste of money.
Old 08-16-2006, 06:03 PM
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Default RE: Getting savy 25 ready to race


ORIGINAL: addictedtonitro

why everyone is talking of suspension what are the best shock's for the sav other than doing the lst shock swap. Cause I got the integy piggy back's and one by one the stock shock's are going back on ( wish I would have really asked around before getting them ) because it is the biggest waste of money.

Unless you go with LST or buggy shocks I think the best ones are the stock ones. Work very well for me!

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