STS Engines
04-09-2007, 09:30 PM
#376
RE: STS Engines
Hey Mark your a great guy thanks for offering to send me a replacement clip but I got the damn thing out!!!!!!!!!!!!
Took me a freaking damn hour and a half though[:-] I was ready to stomp all over the damn backplate. I even bent my micro screwdriver while trying to lever it out! The clip itself is in good shape though. I did scratch up the base of the backplate a bit though[
] Too late here to take pics but ill post up tommorow. Also, I spent 25 minutes trying remove the damn pullstart shaft! It wouldnt budge even after I lubed it up! I had to take heavy duty pliers and step on it while wiggling it out. It wasnt an easy task, in fact I kind of killed my back with it.[:@] The crappy part is that although I got it out, the damn thing scratched up the orange bushing inside of the backplate
I swear, STS makes it impossible to service the starters on their D30M engines! Ive spent a total of 2 hours trying to get that clip out and nearly broke my driver! That thing isnt flexible at all[:'(] Then I couldnt remove the starter shaft for the life of me and when I finally did one of the grooves on the shaft scratched up the inside of the backplate bushing. Ah well.... It wont affect performance but there may be a bit more friction on the start shaft[&o]
Oh by the way, I havent bought a roto backplate yet, Im going to place an order from you next week for the roto start once all my ebay stuff sells out.[8D]
Took me a freaking damn hour and a half though[:-] I was ready to stomp all over the damn backplate. I even bent my micro screwdriver while trying to lever it out! The clip itself is in good shape though. I did scratch up the base of the backplate a bit though[] Too late here to take pics but ill post up tommorow. Also, I spent 25 minutes trying remove the damn pullstart shaft! It wouldnt budge even after I lubed it up! I had to take heavy duty pliers and step on it while wiggling it out. It wasnt an easy task, in fact I kind of killed my back with it.[:@] The crappy part is that although I got it out, the damn thing scratched up the orange bushing inside of the backplate I swear, STS makes it impossible to service the starters on their D30M engines! Ive spent a total of 2 hours trying to get that clip out and nearly broke my driver! That thing isnt flexible at all[:'(] Then I couldnt remove the starter shaft for the life of me and when I finally did one of the grooves on the shaft scratched up the inside of the backplate bushing. Ah well.... It wont affect performance but there may be a bit more friction on the start shaft[&o] Oh by the way, I havent bought a roto backplate yet, Im going to place an order from you next week for the roto start once all my ebay stuff sells out.[8D]
04-09-2007, 09:31 PM
#377
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RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: benzzyo5
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
I am going to reserve judgment until I get another 3/4 of a gallon through it. At that point I will have 1.5 into it. If it still isn't right, then I'll chalk it up to being sucked in by the hype and bite the bullet. My Axial .28 is waiting in the wings.
But THIS I can say with certainty. If you are the recreational basher, there is no need to go through the hours and hours of bullspit that this engine demands. Drop in an Axial, Mach, LRP, etc. and go have fun.
04-09-2007, 09:38 PM
#378
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RE: STS Engines
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
04-09-2007, 09:55 PM
#379
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
okay take your STS carb off the motor....... install you Axial carb...the Axial carb will fit and be easier to tune.... you likely have a leaky needle
and yes the STS settings are from fully close counter clockwise..... the LSN should be about 1.5 mm outside the housing, and the HSn about 2 mm inside of flush
04-09-2007, 10:01 PM
#380
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RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: rcnitrohead
Hey Mark your a great guy thanks for offering to send me a replacement clip but I got the damn thing out!!!!!!!!!!!! Took me a freaking damn hour and a half though[:-] I was ready to stomp all over the damn backplate. I even bent my micro screwdriver while trying to lever it out! The clip itself is in good shape though. I did scratch up the base of the backplate a bit though[] Too late here to take pics but ill post up tommorow. Also, I spent 25 minutes trying remove the damn pullstart shaft! It wouldnt budge even after I lubed it up! I had to take heavy duty pliers and step on it while wiggling it out. It wasnt an easy task, in fact I kind of killed my back with it.[:@] The crappy part is that although I got it out, the damn thing scratched up the orange bushing inside of the backplate I swear, STS makes it impossible to service the starters on their D30M engines! Ive spent a total of 2 hours trying to get that clip out and nearly broke my driver! That thing isnt flexible at all[:'(] Then I couldnt remove the starter shaft for the life of me and when I finally did one of the grooves on the shaft scratched up the inside of the backplate bushing. Ah well.... It wont affect performance but there may be a bit more friction on the start shaft[&o] Oh by the way, I havent bought a roto backplate yet, Im going to place an order from you next week for the roto start once all my ebay stuff sells out.[8D]
Hey Mark your a great guy thanks for offering to send me a replacement clip but I got the damn thing out!!!!!!!!!!!!
Took me a freaking damn hour and a half though[:-] I was ready to stomp all over the damn backplate. I even bent my micro screwdriver while trying to lever it out! The clip itself is in good shape though. I did scratch up the base of the backplate a bit though[] Too late here to take pics but ill post up tommorow. Also, I spent 25 minutes trying remove the damn pullstart shaft! It wouldnt budge even after I lubed it up! I had to take heavy duty pliers and step on it while wiggling it out. It wasnt an easy task, in fact I kind of killed my back with it.[:@] The crappy part is that although I got it out, the damn thing scratched up the orange bushing inside of the backplate I swear, STS makes it impossible to service the starters on their D30M engines! Ive spent a total of 2 hours trying to get that clip out and nearly broke my driver! That thing isnt flexible at all[:'(] Then I couldnt remove the starter shaft for the life of me and when I finally did one of the grooves on the shaft scratched up the inside of the backplate bushing. Ah well.... It wont affect performance but there may be a bit more friction on the start shaft[&o] Oh by the way, I havent bought a roto backplate yet, Im going to place an order from you next week for the roto start once all my ebay stuff sells out.[8D]
Sounds like you've had a hell of a time ... no worries it gets easier
Let me know when you order the roto kit and I'll add the clips, new backplate & shaft. If you damaged the brass bushing your shaft will prob get scratched [&o].
I don't want things like this to make feel you've had a bad experiance with your STS Engine.
-Mark
P.S. Don't tell people I'm a great guy [sm=48_48.gif] JK
04-09-2007, 10:19 PM
#381
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RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: supertib
okay take your STS carb off the motor....... install you Axial carb...the Axial carb will fit and be easier to tune.... you likely have a leaky needle
and yes the STS settings are from fully close counter clockwise..... the LSN should be about 1.5 mm outside the housing, and the HSn about 2 mm inside of flush
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
okay take your STS carb off the motor....... install you Axial carb...the Axial carb will fit and be easier to tune.... you likely have a leaky needle
and yes the STS settings are from fully close counter clockwise..... the LSN should be about 1.5 mm outside the housing, and the HSn about 2 mm inside of flush
Will the base needle setting still apply with the Axial carb? (4.5 out LSN, 3 out HSN)?
04-09-2007, 10:24 PM
#382
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
I will do that. My LSN is no where near being 1.5 mm outside the housing. At 4.5 out it's more like 1.5 mm inside.
Will the base needle setting still apply with the Axial carb? (4.5 out LSN, 3 out HSN)?
ORIGINAL: supertib
okay take your STS carb off the motor....... install you Axial carb...the Axial carb will fit and be easier to tune.... you likely have a leaky needle
and yes the STS settings are from fully close counter clockwise..... the LSN should be about 1.5 mm outside the housing, and the HSn about 2 mm inside of flush
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
Here is one more question that I havent been able to get an answer on.
When they say the base needle setting are
LSN -- 4.5 turns out from the end
HSN -- 3 turns out from the end
Idle -- 0.5mm open
Does that mean screw the needles clockwise until they won't turn anymore (they are all the way in or full lean) and then back them out those number of turns? If so, the LSN needle setting seems awfully lean for a factory setting. It's not even flush like the HPI engines when it is 4.5 turns out from all the way in. It's still recessed pretty good. And the LSN needle really seems loose. I put some Teflon tape around the threads, but it still doesn't seem as tight as my Axial or my Mach carb.
Anyway, some clarification on this would be nice.
okay take your STS carb off the motor....... install you Axial carb...the Axial carb will fit and be easier to tune.... you likely have a leaky needle
and yes the STS settings are from fully close counter clockwise..... the LSN should be about 1.5 mm outside the housing, and the HSn about 2 mm inside of flush
Will the base needle setting still apply with the Axial carb? (4.5 out LSN, 3 out HSN)?
you are counting 1/2 turns as full turns....
04-09-2007, 11:07 PM
#383
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RE: STS Engines
Here is the LSN all the way in:
Here is 4.5 turns out from there. A full turn being one full revolution of the screw. If it where the minute hand on a watch, it would start at 12 go towards 11 and all the way back to 12 again. That's a full turn, right?
This is about 8.5 full turns out:
I have the Axial carb on there now. We'll see how that goes. There was no O-ring on the STS carb. There are 2 on the Axial.
Here is 4.5 turns out from there. A full turn being one full revolution of the screw. If it where the minute hand on a watch, it would start at 12 go towards 11 and all the way back to 12 again. That's a full turn, right?
This is about 8.5 full turns out:
I have the Axial carb on there now. We'll see how that goes. There was no O-ring on the STS carb. There are 2 on the Axial.
04-09-2007, 11:10 PM
#384
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RE: STS Engines
thats why the engine was a pain in the ***** 4.5 turns it's still way in. it should stick out a little
make sure when you do the 4.5 turns out from closed that the carb is not open but closed
close the carb.turn the needle all the way in then turn it out 4.5...just make sure that the carb is closed hold it with your finger
make sure when you do the 4.5 turns out from closed that the carb is not open but closed
close the carb.turn the needle all the way in then turn it out 4.5...just make sure that the carb is closed hold it with your finger
04-09-2007, 11:16 PM
#386
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RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
Hindsight is 20/20.....
I am going to reserve judgment until I get another 3/4 of a gallon through it. At that point I will have 1.5 into it. If it still isn't right, then I'll chalk it up to being sucked in by the hype and bite the bullet. My Axial .28 is waiting in the wings.
But THIS I can say with certainty. If you are the recreational basher, there is no need to go through the hours and hours of bullspit that this engine demands. Drop in an Axial, Mach, LRP, etc. and go have fun.
ORIGINAL: benzzyo5
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
I am going to reserve judgment until I get another 3/4 of a gallon through it. At that point I will have 1.5 into it. If it still isn't right, then I'll chalk it up to being sucked in by the hype and bite the bullet. My Axial .28 is waiting in the wings.
But THIS I can say with certainty. If you are the recreational basher, there is no need to go through the hours and hours of bullspit that this engine demands. Drop in an Axial, Mach, LRP, etc. and go have fun.
does anyone wanna break my dm30 when it comes in tomorrow lol...by the sounds of it i am going to want to destroy it lol. just send it back when its all good and tuned lol.
04-09-2007, 11:37 PM
#387
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
LSN should be 6.5 turns out, and thats likely very lean..
the only way to botom out the LSN is to fully open the carb slide, then fully scew in the needle...Do not do this withthe carb closed or you will split the needle seat....
LSN at 6.5
HSN at 2
both from closed, this is where we run with 30%, maybe slightly richer ...
by the looks of your needles you were extremely lean, extremely !
the only way to botom out the LSN is to fully open the carb slide, then fully scew in the needle...Do not do this withthe carb closed or you will split the needle seat....
LSN at 6.5
HSN at 2
both from closed, this is where we run with 30%, maybe slightly richer ...
by the looks of your needles you were extremely lean, extremely !
04-09-2007, 11:39 PM
#388
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: yfz450_rida
does anyone wanna break my dm30 when it comes in tomorrow lol...by the sounds of it i am going to want to destroy it lol. just send it back when its all good and tuned lol.
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
Hindsight is 20/20.....
I am going to reserve judgment until I get another 3/4 of a gallon through it. At that point I will have 1.5 into it. If it still isn't right, then I'll chalk it up to being sucked in by the hype and bite the bullet. My Axial .28 is waiting in the wings.
But THIS I can say with certainty. If you are the recreational basher, there is no need to go through the hours and hours of bullspit that this engine demands. Drop in an Axial, Mach, LRP, etc. and go have fun.
ORIGINAL: benzzyo5
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
thats why i was thinking of not getting one and just getting a LRP z.28 when i need a new enigne
I am going to reserve judgment until I get another 3/4 of a gallon through it. At that point I will have 1.5 into it. If it still isn't right, then I'll chalk it up to being sucked in by the hype and bite the bullet. My Axial .28 is waiting in the wings.
But THIS I can say with certainty. If you are the recreational basher, there is no need to go through the hours and hours of bullspit that this engine demands. Drop in an Axial, Mach, LRP, etc. and go have fun.
does anyone wanna break my dm30 when it comes in tomorrow lol...by the sounds of it i am going to want to destroy it lol. just send it back when its all good and tuned lol.
04-09-2007, 11:43 PM
#389
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: benzzyo5
thats why the engine was a pain in the ***** 4.5 turns it's still way in. it should stick out a little
make sure when you do the 4.5 turns out from closed that the carb is not open but closed
close the carb.turn the needle all the way in then turn it out 4.5...just make sure that the carb is closed hold it with your finger
thats why the engine was a pain in the ***** 4.5 turns it's still way in. it should stick out a little
make sure when you do the 4.5 turns out from closed that the carb is not open but closed
close the carb.turn the needle all the way in then turn it out 4.5...just make sure that the carb is closed hold it with your finger
very bad idea to hold a carb closed and screw in the LSN, you will split the brass seat the needle slides into... If your ever going to fully close the LSn make sure your carb slide is fully open..
04-10-2007, 12:43 AM
#390
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RE: STS Engines
people told me to be very carefull wehn doing that so you don't damage the needle. that how i been doing it on my enignes and it's great nothing ever happens, when ever i feel just a little resistance i stop then turn the screw out
04-10-2007, 01:05 AM
#391
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
well the problem with your method is you will never be able to truly bottom the needles out if you holding the carb closed... the needle will bottom out on the seat well before it ran out of threads.... And either you split the seat or have to open the carb to screw it any deeper...so your baseline settings are completely useless and meaningless if you never truly bottom the needle out.... The only way possible to fully bottom out the needle is to fully open the carb slide.
04-10-2007, 01:22 AM
#392
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RE: STS Engines
when i do it to my engines it works because they are veryrich on the low end i can tell. also i remember on my nitro star motor when i had it the low end was 3 from closed, when i got it before i even ran it i tested it. from the factory with the carb closed i screwed it 3 turns in. so it worked with the carb closed. maybe not on the sts engines but on the others i had so far it worked with the carb cloesed. but like i said maybe not on the sts engines.
i don't know but my way always worked
i don't know but my way always worked
04-10-2007, 07:05 AM
#393
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RE: STS Engines
I actually did it with the carb open so I could see the needle while looking down the carb throat.
Here is the deal.
4.5 turns out is not right. They need to update that on the website. Bad info as far as I am concerned.
The o-rings on the LSN are teh suck. They don't work properly. Friggin' needle was way too loose - probably sucking in air.
My carb didn't come with an O-ring on the carb collar that goes into the engine. There is supposed to be one, as Mark confirmed this.
The build quality of the carb is crap. How someone could say differently is beyond me. Anyone getting a new STS30 should check their carb first thing. This engine may get a 10 for performance, but it gets a 2 for fit and finish.
Here is the deal.
4.5 turns out is not right. They need to update that on the website. Bad info as far as I am concerned.
The o-rings on the LSN are teh suck. They don't work properly. Friggin' needle was way too loose - probably sucking in air.
My carb didn't come with an O-ring on the carb collar that goes into the engine. There is supposed to be one, as Mark confirmed this.
The build quality of the carb is crap. How someone could say differently is beyond me. Anyone getting a new STS30 should check their carb first thing. This engine may get a 10 for performance, but it gets a 2 for fit and finish.
04-10-2007, 07:32 AM
#394
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RE: STS Engines
I dont know if it will help you much, but try to put Asociated Green Slime on the 2 o-rings on the LSN. Hopefully, the slime will help seal and kep air fom leaking into this part of the carb.
04-10-2007, 07:37 AM
#395
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RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: BigGrump
I was having a hard time with my version 2 also, at the two gallon mark. I had not sealed the engine, as I assumed it would not be necessary. As a last resort I did that. In doing so, I discovered there was no rubber "O" ring on the carb where it slides into the block. I put an O ring there, and after sealing, the engine is totally different. Runs correctly now. Break in is complete and runs like a house of fire.
Dennis
I was having a hard time with my version 2 also, at the two gallon mark. I had not sealed the engine, as I assumed it would not be necessary. As a last resort I did that. In doing so, I discovered there was no rubber "O" ring on the carb where it slides into the block. I put an O ring there, and after sealing, the engine is totally different. Runs correctly now. Break in is complete and runs like a house of fire.
Dennis
well it could of been worse i still havent broken in mine yet.
04-10-2007, 07:55 AM
#396
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RE: STS Engines
well i sealed the carb ,i sealed the bask plate and i sealed the lsn with rtv. on the lsn just the threads are rtv not the o rings, so i will see how that works
04-10-2007, 08:28 AM
#397
Senior Member
RE: STS Engines
ORIGINAL: BicketyBam
I actually did it with the carb open so I could see the needle while looking down the carb throat.
Here is the deal.
4.5 turns out is not right. They need to update that on the website. Bad info as far as I am concerned.
The o-rings on the LSN are teh suck. They don't work properly. Friggin' needle was way too loose - probably sucking in air.
My carb didn't come with an O-ring on the carb collar that goes into the engine. There is supposed to be one, as Mark confirmed this.
The build quality of the carb is crap. How someone could say differently is beyond me. Anyone getting a new STS30 should check their carb first thing. This engine may get a 10 for performance, but it gets a 2 for fit and finish.
I actually did it with the carb open so I could see the needle while looking down the carb throat.
Here is the deal.
4.5 turns out is not right. They need to update that on the website. Bad info as far as I am concerned.
The o-rings on the LSN are teh suck. They don't work properly. Friggin' needle was way too loose - probably sucking in air.
My carb didn't come with an O-ring on the carb collar that goes into the engine. There is supposed to be one, as Mark confirmed this.
The build quality of the carb is crap. How someone could say differently is beyond me. Anyone getting a new STS30 should check their carb first thing. This engine may get a 10 for performance, but it gets a 2 for fit and finish.
if you young guys would read my advice, you would never had this problem... earlier you told me the needles were tight ! LOL.
the carb o-ring on STS is inside the engine block
04-10-2007, 08:46 AM
#400
RE: STS Engines
Hey guys, factory settings are kind of wierd for my engine. It came with the LSN approx. 2 millimeters out of the brass knob. Isn't that extremely rich? I want to have everything in working order for break in Now Im really happy I got the Rev 1. Easy break in!!!! I am a patient guy and I'm telling you guys, if either of you spent the amount of time I did wrestling with a starter shaft E-clip and the start shaft, you guys would have set your engines on fire[>:][:@] I wont mind crappy performance until a gallon and 1 1/2. But now that most of you are finding no O-rings in the carb I have to check mine and re-seal it[&o] Man I have spent over 3 hours preparing this engine for break in and its been a pain already![:-] I cant wait until I get it running[8D] Tom. P.S. Mark is a terrible guy[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=shades_smile.gif][sm=tongue_smile.gif][sm=lol.gif] You the man!
Now Im really happy I got the Rev 1. Easy break in!!!! I am a patient guy and I'm telling you guys, if either of you spent the amount of time I did wrestling with a starter shaft E-clip and the start shaft, you guys would have set your engines on fire[>:][:@] I wont mind crappy performance until a gallon and 1 1/2. But now that most of you are finding no O-rings in the carb I have to check mine and re-seal it[&o] Man I have spent over 3 hours preparing this engine for break in and its been a pain already![:-] I cant wait until I get it running[8D] Tom. P.S. Mark is a terrible guy[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=shades_smile.gif][sm=tongue_smile.gif][sm=lol.gif] You the man!