senator050

Would like to know ,Anbody had probs with Rear Diff.
Had mine at the track yesterday ,went home to start cleaning process noticed rear diff wasnt rotating freely,Anyway pulled the diff out and under closer inspection no gears were stripped and everthing looked all right then noticed that the o-ring was missing on 1 side which was causing the internals to split apart underload.


Check out instruction sheet on the diff upgrade included with truck,and yep 2 o-rings internal & 2 external inside drive cups,mine only had the 1 internal.

So if you are doing your routine maintence & Cleaning take the time to have a look

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Did you take the diff all the way apart where you can see the spider gears? You have O-rings in the diff cups to help keep the dog bones from having to much play. The two in side are to keep the grease or the diff oil from leaking out and I am sure to keep dirt out as well. All so make sure you shim them if you have not all ready.

In 7 to 8 gallons I finally hand my first diff problem and it was not my gears but my bearings in the rear. The ball bearings where totally gone and the only thing left was the inner and outer race. So I checked the front ones, the bearings where not as bad did have a lot of play and on there way out. Still running all the stock gears front and back.

senator050

Gday 46u yep pulled out compleatly and pulled apart and O-ring on rightside nothing on the left ,Looking from the rear of truck. I basicaly think that it wasnt fitted.And if it wasnt fitted why didnt it do it before? And after yesterdays outing at the track iam amazzed that it didnt seize up or strip the Spider gears.

So when i get home this arvo,Ill shim up the rear and pull the front down, better to be safe than sorry!

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Do not see how the O-ring on the out put cup where it goes through the diff cup or ring gear would keep it from work properly if the gears are not stripped. I all so recommend you check the setscrew that holds the diff cup for the center dog bone and the one the brake disc is on, on the transmission.

matt295

Amen to what 46 said. Same problem with mine, the bearings caused me lots of ****. In the past year I've fried I think 3 diff's total. Not bad at all.

SpeedAddict

This might seem like a noob question. What do you mean by shim the diffs? How do you shim them? What's the effect? Thanks for answering a simple question.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

When you shim the diff you are getting all the tooth engagement you can get with out bind. You are shimming the Pinion and ring gear closer to each other. Makes the diffs more durable.

SpeedAddict

Thanks. I think I'll follow the instructions on "READ THIS!!!Before you even think about starting your RTR Savage". There was a pretty good link to savage-central.

68roadster

Okay, maybe I'm confused by the terminology. 46u, you say that we want to shim it so that the "Pinion and ring gear are closer". Which gears are these? Part number 86030 in my book is called a Bevel Gear 43 Tooth and 86031 is a Bevel Gear 13 Tooth. Are these the gears we want to get better mesh with?

I am having problems inside the diff itself, my spider gears are stripping, in the front only. I have an X. I rebuilt the front once so far, and it lasted less than a quart. Any suggestions?

Also, how much oil should I put in the diff itself?

Thanks,
Joe

senator050

Gday All
Put Diff back in truck yesterday all shimmed up ,new o-rings Silicone instead of rubber internal only,And it is so smooth its amazing.
Anyway will perform this to the front today,And hopefully will allow the diffs to last a little bit longer.
For all who have had this problem i highly recommend that you take the time to remove the diffs replace the rubber o-rings with silicone & 2 x 0.2mm Shims on either side,And this gives you a perfect mesh with no bind.

thanks 46u for the input.