spuddy38

hello everyone , thanks for looking at my post .im new to the nitro car thing.
anyway i have just got my son a hpi nitro mt2 which he will be having it for xmas.. i have read some posts on
taking the car out of the box and will go through it and tighten up all nuts and bolts and lock tight them all
can anyone tell me what this car is like and what things to look out for when taking it out of the box..
i think the mt 2 is the new one with the roto start... and it as the t 15 engine ...
anyway thats will be my sons car for xmas now onto dads lol .. yeah got to have one if my son is having one .
still alittle kid at heart. anyway i was thinking about getting the 1/18 savage x RTR... also i know about going through it to tighten all
nuts and bolts up but can someone tell me if there is anything else to check before we take the cars out like gear boxes ect the savage x rtr retails in the uk at £339 cheapest i have found . is there a better car than this one ???? what is the hellfire like ?????
would love a baja b5 but thats out of my price range ...
thanks for reading
spuddy

amwhite2005

Hi, welcome to the Nitro car world. 1st, the MT2 is good chose, and the Savage X RTR is a 1/8, not 1/18. (Dont worry, ervyone nakes small mistakes)

If you go to:

www.modelsport.co.uk

They have the Savage X RTR and the Savage X SS for only £329! If you can afford the X SS, I would get that, it comes as a kit, but the instructions are easy to follow. It also has all the extra features like hardened drive terain and a better engine. It doesn't come with a radio, so youy could get the Spektrum DX3.0, for £160. If you get those things, the total comes to £490. If you can afford that, go for it. (add a little extra for small things like glue etc).

If you go for the X RTR, check the screws, check the gear mesh. Remember, you need a 7.2V stick pack for the rotostart, 12 AAs for the radio and the reciever. You also need a glow plug ignitor and charger. The HPI one is good. This does push costs up a little, but nothing much.

Oh, add a few tins of WD-40 to that, very helpful, use it nearly everywhere, just spray the vital areas down when you are done running for the day and it will make stuff last a lot longer.

spuddy38

hey thanks ...
yes i thought the hpi nitro mt2 look a good car and i have read some info about them ....
as for the savage x the car looks nice and i was going to buy one straight from the box
i know it would be better to build the car which i could do . but i dont want to then spend money on a controler
and stuff like that i had to beg the wife to let me have this lol .. what do you mean about checking the gear mesh ???
does it fall apart or something and would it be the same with my sons hpi mt2 ???... wd40 is good stuff as we use it on our motor cross
bikes after every ride
cheers

JayC1968

My Feedback: (3)

The best way to learn is to just go through these posts and read, read, read........ You'll see what not to do and what should be done as you go. The major thing with the savage is the spur gear mesh being set right. Also be sure to use a medium strength thread lock on ALL Metal to metal screws and nuts, ESPECIALLY the engine mount screws and let it set for at least 12 hours before running it. Other than that they are tough and can take a beating.

amwhite2005

There is a post titled "READ THIS BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT RUNNING YOUR SAVAGE!". Do a search for that and read it all through. That will tell you about the mesh. The treadlock I use is here:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFun...n&ItemID=24889

This works for me, and keeps the screws in place good.

spuddy38

thanks jayc

MarkJeepn

instead of getting 12 AA get 8 for the radio and a 6v hump pack for the Rx youwill get better responce from your servos. also get a good charger i have the Dynamite prophet plus charger and it works great not to expensive either( http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN4036 ). Also youwill need a good glow plug igniter. Get a good quality fuel for break in I use Trinity Monster horsepower 30%, but dont use 30% they have a 20% break in blend. Also get a few extra spur gears until you get familiar with setting your gear mesh. Also get some good hex drivers and some needle nose pliers if you don't have them already, your LHS should have these things. other than that read the other posts and you should be good to go.[8D]

benzzyo5

Jay;s right just read, read ,read

this will help out

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4315363/tm.htm

also this
http://www.phpbbserver.com/rcworld/v...mforum=rcworld

spuddy38

is this info for the savage or will it be the same for the hpi mt2
cheers

HerrSavage

I would HIGHLY suggest getting the X SS over the RTR. The X SS has solved all of the RTR's problems. I would NOT get the RTR. If it has to be RTR, then look into a Thunder Tiger MTA4 S28 - they're big, powerful, simple, and most importantly, very nicely priced. The X SS is kind of the best thing going right now. When it comes to considering the price, you have to have some kind of idea of how long you want to stay in the hobby. If you just want to mess around for a few months and think you're likely to lose interest, then OK... But for me, spending €400 even for an RTR is a hell of a lot of money. BUT, after a year, I now know how much sense it makes to get the good radio at the beginning - cuz if/when you end up getting it later, of course you end up spending more... Yeah yeah, lot of stuff to consider.. If you like the idea of building it yourself, get the X SS. If you want RTR, and want to keep the price within reason(nothing is reasonable about this hobby..), I'd get the TT MTA4 S28..

amwhite2005

The X will work out more expensive than the X SS in the long run. If you bash hard.

You need to replace the TVPs.
The diffs will need work.
The dual disk brakes are a real add on, a sort of must have.
The dual slipper clutch is useless, so you will either need to uprage to steel, or the single slipper.
The tranny may cause you issues, (not me), but some people have had issues with it.

All these are fixed on the X SS, so you pay an extra £160. But those things may cost £160 in the end. And you get all the extras of the X SS.

ckyneeedsyou

the Savage is the way to go id go with the Robinson racing spur and clutch gear combo. Hpi's spurs are garbage, i have striped so many of those out AND THEY WERE SET TO THE RIGHT GEAR MESH!!!!!!!!!!! ever since i got Robinson's gears i have never had a problem.

spuddy38

hi guys and girls . well i rang the shop up today to get some more info on the savage x rtr and i said about i have joined a forum
and i asked them about mesh gears and stuff and they said with the new savage x rtr all the problem's the old ones have as now been sorted out thats why there is a new savage x rtr . now as i said to you guys before I'm new to all this are they right ...???

I'm not going to jump it or bash it to bits . all I'm going to do with it is drive it round our flat meadow with my sons mx2.
i dont want to spend money every time i take it out because something as broke just want to take it out . have a play bring it home
clean it oil it up and put it away for the next time and thats it .. god i sound boring lol

amwhite2005

You wont break anything just driving it around, although you may find that a little boring after a while. You will need to some maintenance, eg, check diff fluid for leaks, replace shock oil every 30 or so tanks, clean it all up, oil it all, check the tire glue every 50 tanks and stuff like that (by the way, the tank numbers are estimates)

ckyneeedsyou

the savage does not have sealed fluid diffs just greased CLEANING IS THE BIG 1

Surfrider

Well, take my experience... I bought the X-RTR when it was first released. I ended up replacing the spur gear nearly immediately for a hardened steel spur / clutch bell combo. Then I broke the rear diff twice shortly after. The stock TVPs on the RTR are a bit flawed in the rear where the little "X" is. Aesthetic X = weak point. The Savage X SS fixes all of these problems, plus comes with heavy duty dogbones, drive cups, shimmed / alloy differentials, etc.

With cost of the X RTR's potential problems, I would go with the X SS. It may cost more up-front, but it can save you A LOT of headaches in the end; Not to mention the beefed up drivetrain parts, lightened tyres, etc. The only difference is you will need a radio and set of servos. The Spektrum DX3 radio is one of the best on the market and comes with two servos. They may not be top notch servos, but are just as good (if not better) than what you are getting in the X RTR. On top of that, you will need a few quid for some CA glue for the tires, threadlock, and some paint for the body.

Considerations should be made for a good receiver hump pack (better servo response) and an aluminum clutch kit, regardless RTR or SS kit you choose.

Surfrider

Someone did post this in another thread:



Considering your avatar info, it says youre in the UK. If you do get the X RTR in the end, I would definitely look out for this deal. At least you will have the Spur and differentials on hand for when they do break. Do note, the differentials dont have the shims included in that picture (nor on the pinion gear), which is what really causes the diffs to fail so commonly.

My advice is still to go with the X SS.

amwhite2005

That offer is at modelsport.co.uk They are good there. I have used them since I dont have an LHS.