Ziggmiester

Hey...I'll have to get this servo rather than the DZ9000T now

[link=http://www.jrradios.com/Products/TechnicalSpecs.aspx?ProdID=JRPS8711]DS8711[/link]

-Ziggy

Hmmm..gotta remind myself to hit the SURFACE button before I look at the servos!
But, rather than turn this topic into a complete mistake, let me ask...what is the exact technical reason why I couldn't put this in my Savage...what prevents it?

Vigilante212

It wieghs a bit more not much and it costs more you could have gotten a hitec 5955tg for $116 at 333 oz of torque and .15 sec swing time. Sad fact is your paying more for the name then you should, and 403 oz might be overkill your going to need a metal servo arm to take the beating it will probably rip a plastic one to bits.

Ziggmiester

The 5955tg is more like the dz9000t when it comes to price and oz/in.

Well, I haven't bought it yet, but it's interesting that they separate air and surface servos when you can mix at least *some* of the servos.

Unless, there is another reason that hasn't been brought to my attention?

-Ziggy

Chronic

You need to consider your setup when choosing these high torque servos. You need enough power to get the job done, but you don't want to rob yourself of speed either. I absolutely loved my DZ9000T when my Savage was running those big old Losi SKP tires on 40 series wheels, but I'd be more than willing to trade some of that torque for more speed now that the truck has little MT size tires on Maxx size wheels.

There are several other servos on the market that offer the 200oz torque minimum that's really needed here, but they have a much faster .10 second transit time compared to the .15 second time you see out of these heavy hitters. If you don't actually need all of that power, then you might want to look at something a little faster.

Ziggmiester

I like the DZ9000T because I knew it would have more than enough torque for whatever wheels I would want to put on my Savage. But, Chronic, you raise a good point...there are servos like this:

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLSX0&P=ML]Servo[/link]

It's slightly more expensive, but still has 200 oz/in. but has .10 transit time. What it comes down to, is I'll probably buy a torque heavy servo like the DZ9000T, in addition to buying a servo like this airtronics one. That way, if I change my setup, I can just change the steering servo as well.

This Airtronics one happens to be the one my bro plans to two of in his LST...that way he has torque and speed.

Just throw out there...I have the stock servo in mine right now...and that's .16 transit time...so even a DZ9000T would be upgrade in speed over this, not to mention torque.
-Ziggy

Chronic

Two of those analog Airtronics servos are the perfect choice for your brothers LST, but you would be better off with something like [link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_61_100/products_id/5733]THIS[/link] in the single servo Savage. It has the same specs as the Airtronics but it's a digital, so you'll get faster response and more holding power.

Ziggmiester

Hmm...didn't even notice those were analog...thanks for the link

savage - LTD

I have this new JR servo-- I have not run it yet however I think its getting a bad rap here on the fourm--

4030z of torque-- whats not to love-- the speed is good for bashing there are faster however by no means is this servo a bad product

savage - LTD

anybody else have a opinion on this new JR servo-

Chronic

It's going to be a good servo, just like almost everything else that JR makes. Any servo intended to push that much load is going to be a rugged unit, so there shouldn't be any question about it's stamina. If you need that much power, then go for it.

The downside... you are going to want to invest in a couple really good hump packs and a decent charger. That monster will be hungry.

Ziggmiester

Oh yea, it'll be a great servo. I still might buy it. Then I have something I know will move ANY wheels I'll throw on my Savage.

savage - LTD

cool- I have that servo just not installed yet-- should I install a better servo saver to handle that kind of tourqe-

please help- should I use a aluminum arm?


thanks - I'm glad you guys think it a good servo-- I was suprised to see people trashing this servo here on the fourms

Chronic

I currently have a nylon arm on my 9000T, and it's held up fine. An aluminum arm wouldn't be a bad idea though, if nothing else they are more rigid than a plastic arm.

The cam type servo saver on the Savage is about as good as you are going to find on an MT, don't change a thing other than tightening the spring a little and replacing the four plastic bushings on the steering posts with some 6x10x3 bearings.

SAVAGEJIM

I'm impressed this thing out does the HS 5955TG @ only 4.8V! And to boot, 403oz-in @ 6V!

I have an HS5995TG robot servo that produces 333oz-in @ 6V and 416oz-in @ 7.2V. I initially wanted to convert my daily basher into 4wheel steeing, but I scrapped that idea. But I'm happy tp know that if I ever wanted to do that, I have the potential of 416oz-in. Even better, I bought my 5995 for $97 including S&H! Cheaper than the JR and still cheaper than the 5995 too!

These super servos have some serious torque....now, only if our nitro engines were capable of producing 400+oz-in at the flywheel! You could literally gear as high as you want to, even make custom gears such as 30T CB & 30T spurs (1:1 ratio!) and or Savage trucks will see 70+MPH with 8in diameter monster wheels!

savage - LTD

thanks Chronic --
where can I get a stronger spring??

have you ever seen the ofna servo saver for the savage-- whats do you think of this-

I going to post a link for everyone to see

savage - LTD

CLICK HERE

is this a good idea for my new JR servo??

Savage MP Servo Saver Mod
Filed under: Tips on July 2, 2004
Benefits:
- Improved durability
- Improves steering capabilities
- Enhances handling and overall performance

Parts Needed:
1 Set - OFNA Servo Saver Set (Part # 18034)
1 Set - OFNA Clutch Bell Shim Kit (Part # 10099)
1 Set - OFNA Aluminum Servo Arm (Part # 10732) OR Any Brand of Futaba Servo Arm
2 Sets - Duratrax 6×10mm Ball Bearings (Part # 1561) OR Any Brand of 6×10mm Bearings

Directions:
As with any set of directions, there are more than one way to do things. So use these as a guideline and use your own judgment when doing your mod. Let’s begin:

1. Unscrew the following 4 screws (on both sides of the truck) in order to remove the front end.


2. Now slide the front end straight off the TVP’s.


3. Look on the bottom of the front end and unscrew the 2 screws that hold the steering posts in place.


4. Unscrew the turnbuckles, steering arm, the round servo saver and the attached arm from the front end along with the top screws which hold the top of the steering posts as seen in the image below.


5. Now both steering posts should be off of the truck. Next you need to pull the metal bolt out of the center of BOTH steering post. Place the bolts to the side b/c you will need them later.


6. Now open your package for the ofna servo saver. You will see 2 posts and 4 brass bushings. Place the 4 brass bushings to the side (we will NOT be using them). Instead you will be using the 6×10mm Ball Bearings. I am on a budget so I used the Duratrax Ball Bearings.

7. Now rip open the ofna shim kit and look for two brass colored shims. They will be the about the same diameter as the ball bearings. In the pic below, you can see the ball bearings in yellow and the brass spacers in red.


8. Take each ofna steering post and insert one ball bearing into each end of the post. Make sure you do both steering posts.

9. Now take one of the brass shims and slide it onto the metal bolt. The brass shim should be right next to the hex shaped end on the bolt. Then simply insert the bolt into the ofna steering post. Make sure that the ball bearings do not pop out when you slide the bolt into the steering post.


10. Now it’s time to reassemble everything. Simply screw the two screws from the radio tray back into both of your new ofna steering posts. Make sure that the hex part of the bolt is at the OPPOSITE end of the radio tray (in yellow). You want the round end of the bolt to butt up to the radio tray (in red).


11. Now you can put the steering arm back onto the steering posts. Instead of using the stock screws, I used a stainless steel 3mm x 20mm bolt with a 3mm washer & 3mm nylon lock nut. This will give you more durability and improve steering. Make sure that you pick a bolt that is smaller in diameter than the holes on the steering arm. The smaller diameter will reduce any friction on the steering arm.

12. Screw a nylon nut onto the end of your bolt to lock the steering arm onto the steering post.


13. The next couple of steps are very important and have many things to pay attention too. When you bolt the arm onto the ofna posts make sure that the bend on the end of the arm is pointed towards the front of the truck (away from the radio box). In the picture below you can see that I did it WRONG and had the arm facing the wrong way (orange arrows). Luckily I realized it after I took the picture and corrected it.


14. You can also see how the nuts and bolt were inserted into the steering posts (red arrows). Do NOT tighten up the bolts all the way. You only want the nylon nuts to simply hold the bolt in place and NOT place any friction on the steering arm.


15. You also need to make sure you attach the arm onto the TOP side of the steering posts. If you attach it onto the bottom side, you won’t be able to mount everything back into the truck b/c the steering arm will hit on the dog bone drive shaft. The blue arrows show the WRONG side to mount the arm. Make sure you attach it to the top (as seen in the picture).


16. Now you can install the futaba arm onto your stock servo and bolt it onto the steering post. If your considering upgrading your steering servo now would be a perfect time then ever.

17. Once you have assembled those screws, it is a good idea to test your setup b/f you finish reassembling everything. You can simply move the servo arm and see if you feel any tension anywhere. Your steering linkages should glide back and forth very smoothly and with little effort. If your set-up passes this test, then you should do another test. Hook up your radio and power up your steering servo and test it with your radio. If it passes both tests, then its time to finish reassembling everything.

18. To finish reassembly: Reattach both turnbuckles back onto the steering arm and screw the bottom of the steering posts back onto the front skid plate.

19. Now re-attach the front end back onto the TVP (8 screws - 4 on each side). Make sure you put the dog bone back into the cups when you put the front end back on.

20. Now go bash and enjoy your work.

savage - LTD

So instead of replacing the HPI cam style servo savaer I should just tighten uo the spring a little bit???

can anybody tell were to get a stringer spring??

savage - LTD

ok heres my plan-- im going to run the JR- DS 8711 with the hpi cam style servo saver and Im going to use the spring from the mp servo saver because its tighter and thicker so I wont have to put a much prussure on the spring( not turn it or tourque it down like the stock spring)

any comments

savage - LTD

or maybe a full aluminum servo saver

not sure what to get

savage - LTD

hey all- so does anyone have or is considering getting this servo

I have not installed it yet just looking for some more feedback

savage - LTD

has anyone even heard of this servo??

savage - LTD

no one wants to comment on my post--

please reply-

thanks

arisking

No one wants to comment to you because of your last 8 posts. And I think this thread was done a couple days.

-Josh-