billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

Just got my sportwerks.26 v2 today and wondering do i need to take it apart and seal it up?...anyone have a link to where i can read on what i need to seal?....i used the search but didnt really find a link....also, anyone have a good link to a good break in method other than the factory break in procedure?...not a newb by any means but my 1st aftermarket bigblock engine...ive had many small block engine's

twomanytoys

Most engines you dont need to seal. I usually take them apart and clean them to get any debris out but I also have never found any debris either. The V2 are pretty much break in and run engines. They have been very leak free. If you were to seal the engine you need to remove the backplate and seal the backplate and remove carb and seal the carb base but I dont seal the carb till the motor is installed and set up properly because sometimes you have to turn the carb slightly for linkage to line up right. Anyhow you should be fine with doing nothing but cleaning.

billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

ya i kinda knew to seal the backplate but wasnt sure on the base of the carb.....so i see the most popular break in on these engines is the heat cycle?....on my os.18tm's i always used the manual, but for the BB i think ill use the heat cycle

ForkliftJeff

DEFINATELY TAKE IT APART FIRST!! I just bought an Axial .28 and took it apart and sealed it. Good thing too, I found two shards of metal in the engine. One right under the con rod just waitin to wreck stuff, and one under the carb. And ya, just seal the backplate, and the carb (after installation to line up linkage) and you're done.

billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

thanks jeff, was wondering if anyone besides twomanytoys was gonna reply..lol...ill defenitly take it apart now and seal everything...been reading up on some of it on here...how you like the axial?..thinking of ordering it also

ForkliftJeff

Don't know yet. Gonna break it in soon as it stops snowing and raining.

twomanytoys

I really like the axial to. I just got done breaking it in and it is one heck of an engine for the price. DOnt do the heat cycle method. You can do 1 tank at idle around 220, second tank do 1/4 throttle runs, 3rd tank do 1/2 throttle runs, 4th tank do 3/4 throttle runs then 5th tank start tuning and short full throttle runs. Just make sure that the temps get up near or above 220 on every tank. Running too cool can damage the engine and running too hot wont let the piston seat with the sleeve right.

HerrSavage

What I do is just put silicone sealant stuff around the backplate and carb throat, and let it sit over night.. I don't do it out of conviction though - at least I've never had a problem with air-leaks, etc.. I just do it cuz everybody says to, so why not... I definitely don't think it's necessary to take a whole new engine apart - but yeah, open up the top and look into the back for metal shavings.. Just personal preference though - if you wanna take yours apart, go for it.. I just put some afterrun oil in there and pull the starter a few times to pump any junk out..

What I do for break-in is the following:

1.) After putting flywheel and clutch on, take plug out, and looking down into engine, rotate the flywheel and look for the point where the piston is at its totally bottom position.. This position is where you want the engine to be when it cools.. I scratch a notch at 12:00(or wherever's convenient, depending on the layout of the truck.. 3:00 on a truggy for ex, maybe 9:00 on a Savage - so you can see the notch is all that matters...) Then you'll always know where BDC is, and can rotate the flywheel to get to that position immediately after shutting down..

2.) Then do the whole heat cycle thing.. I just do like 20 heat cycles making sure temps get up to 200-220, letting cool completely at BDC in between runs.. If it's cool where you are, maybe wrap the head in a sock or alu foil before to starting to make sure temps get up over 200...

I'm not saying any of the above is correct or perfect or right or that you should do it too - I'm certainly no expert.. But it's my understanding of the basics of heat cycling, and so far so good.. And I'm still always open to learning how to do it better..

Let us know how that SW works out - I'm keen to hear.. A vid would be especially cool.....

billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

thanks guys, i opend the backplate up and sure enough there was a small piece of metal in there...not saying it would have hurt anything but you never know, so im glad i did open it up to seal it!...guess im gonna try the heat cycle as alot of people seem to have the best luck with it!

billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

well, halfway through the heat cycle break in and the truck is idleing very well and seems to be running fairly strong for it being rich still..cant really tell how much power it really has yet but so far i like it...with it being ritch it was pulling the front wheels off the ground about 3 inches or more.. as i am using the stock gearing of 15/49 right now to see how it does with the 2 speed tranny...had to lean the truck some and put some aluminum foil on the head to get the temps up to 200 deg...its about 55 degrees here today...prob gonna finish the break in tomorrow as i have to go do some honey do stuff with the wife!..lol

X-ruler

I have the sportwerks v2 and it is a great motor. Easy to tune and a lot of power. Once you have it broke in with the stock 15/49 gearing the truck with flip right over so you might want to get a wheelie bar.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Or just go 16/47. Have fun with the engine...and upgrade your clutch shoes!

billyp1106

My Feedback: (-1)

which clutch would you guys recommend? Not looking to spend alot of money on it right now, so whats a good set at a fairly low price? also im running the s25 chassis and wondering is there anything else i would need to replace right now that isnt expensive to do, but would help the truck?