Hordsak

This is Skinners brand new Axial .32. We managed to break it in (barely) but as soon as we tried to tune it, it was completely unreliable and impossible to get consistent. I took it apart, sealed the carb, backplate, and all the needles and re-installed the engine. It was still horrible. So I took it out again, and this is what I found today. And like I said in the video, the warranty on this engine is now done, because I've sealed it. This is pretty bad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEYdyidvRtY&fmt=18

mazdab2600

i just did my 28 spec one today.
got both my bearing from vxb bearings from u know for 26 bucks shipped.
the spec 1 .28 and the 32 use the same.
if needed .
front bearing 607-2rs(2 rubber seals you'll need to remove one side for lube from the carb) size is 7x19x6.

rear bearing is 14x25x6. no part #.

Hordsak

How hard is the front one to change? I've never had to do one before. I know I need to heat the case up (I'll use an oven, 10 minutes around 250) to expand the case. Then can I tap the bearing out from the inside with some type of a wooden dowel? Thanks!

mazdab2600

mine came apart very easy compared to my old f4.1.
if your lucky you can tap it out without haveing to remove the crank(to knock it out from the back side).
have a block of wood handy and tap the front end of the crank on it the bearing may come out that easy.
my new ones went in tight and the seal was great.

BudBud

It is an easy job, I change mine to Picco bearings when they go south. The Picco has a seal band in and out. Like MazdaB2600 said, the bearing is a common size. I have changed them on the Hpi engines and Axials. I also tried some ceramic bearings, but cannot tell that they are any better. BB

Hordsak

So you guys are saying I might get lucky, and not have to tear the engine apart? IE: Put the whole freakin engine in the oven at 250 for 10 minutes, and (using an oven mit) tap the end of the engine on a piece of wood, hoping the bearing will fall out? That would seem to easy hehe. Do you guys happen to have a part number for the picco bearing? I don't think Skinner wants to chance it on another junk Axial bearing. Thanks!

NitroVenom

I had to do this like 2 months ago for my 18tz, you have to completely gut the motor. Then take the back end of a screw driver(flat head) and press it on the inside of the bearing. Then take a hammer and hit the top of the screwdriver until it pops out. I was able to take out the bearing and also put the new one in without heating up the block but it took some force.

A little tip for when you put the new bearing in use a rubber mallet larger then the bearing. Also make sure you hit the bearing in strait/evenly otherwise it won't go in.

BudBud

Picco 51311 ..... I always tore mine clear down and used a wooden or plastic dowel from the inside to tap it out. Actually my tool of choice was a plastic rod I got from Sig Arms when I went through their armorer's school. BB

mazdab2600

thats a good tip with the mallet.

i used a socket the same size as the outer race as to not damage the seal or the center of the bearing and a large vise to press it in.my engine was all apart from the rear bearing falling apart.

BudBud

I just sat the case down and used the old bearing on top of the new bearing to tap it in with a plastic hammer. The OD is perfect that way and there is no chance of knocking in the seal. Driving it in wist a vise sounds excellent as well. I did hundreds of Chevrolet U-joints that way. BB

mazdab2600

thats funny.
i just did my uncle's u-joint's on his gmc truck yesterday with the vise/sockets trick.

BudBud

I worked in a Mobil station in high school and the big jacked up 4x4 craze was just beginning. We did U-joints all the time. We must have been too cheap. [] You could buy a new GM style joint for less than three dollars. I got pretty quick at changing them. [8D]