wolfie1

I am getting really quite 0#¥¤§+ off with my xl the first 5.9 never run right so i got that replaced under warranty after it blew a hole in the crank case then the centre gear box blew itself to bits then my new engine went again (same thing again) i have only put 4 1/2 tanks through the new engine, I have also replaced various bits of the radio gear. Seriously this thing is in bits more than it isint. So i reckons when i get my new engine under warranty "again" i am gonna sell this engine (any body want to buy a brand new k5.9 lol) and get an lrp zr 30 for it cause i can live with things breakin from time to time but all the time and the same thing over and over is so frustrating

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

good call or if you want to stay with hpi engines i've heard the F4.6 is a good one but i'd probally do what you're doing too

the lug

burnchassis3

Blowing up engines? Your not doing something right.
CS

SureToCrash

Not necessarily. I have heard the 5.9s are really crappy and have read many Savage XL posts claiming blown engines, trannys, etc. Also, the first piece of advice around here when buying an XL is to sell the engine for a Picco or LRP, not a very good rating from the HPI forum users, so I'll give the OP the benefit of the doubt.

3-172IN MTN

I have also seen multiple reports of bad 5.9 motors as well as they are not very powerful and truly do not put the power to the ground that they claim! I reccomend getting the LRP and off setting your purchase by selling the 5.9! Just ask BudBud!!!

wolfie1

Well i have another truck with a .18 engine and has been no bother at all really, i did everything on my 5.9 as per the instructions anything hazy i phoned Hpi europe (very helpful lot i have to admit) just to make sure i was exactly right in what i was doing and still "DISASTER" lol it broke

SureToCrash

You want to hear about a disaster, my friend put a supercharger() on his 5.9 XL.[sm=lol.gif]

Couldn't talk the guy outta it, told him it was the wrong engine and superchargers suck in general but he wouldn't listen. Last time that thing ran half decently was during break in.[sm=lol.gif]

gpracer

 

Wolfie1

Just curious, what was the Temp on your motor once up to normal operating Temp?  I just bought my XL about a month ago, 3 tanks so far, when I tune it ( to how I think it runs correctly, it runs around 280 – 300 degrees, if I tune it to where it runs around 250 degrees, top end SUCKS. This is with the body on. I cut a hole in my front grille trying to get air flow to the engine, didn’t help. I have the back bed area cut halfway back and all of the back windshield cut out. I can’t get the freaking thing to run around 250 without sucking on the top end. So, I’m curious if I may have a bad engine or it’s just gonna run hot til it blows up….

 

 

I’m using Duratrax – Flashoint temp gauge, it does not have a laser but I have put it in the same location every time. Don’t know if it sucks or what but seems to read Temp correctly.

 

   

 

Does anyone have suggestion on cooling my engine?

 

SAVAGEJIM

DO Not use the temp range in the HPI engine manual. That thing is utter BS.

If you are at 280-300 degreesF and the engine runs great with enough smoke coming out the stinger when you gas it and the engine does not make bad noises, then 280-300degreesF is where you need to be.

That 250-275degree range is wrong for so many reasons. One being your location; you can be at a higher altitude. You can ave more humididty or less humidity. Your outside temps could be wramer or colder than usual.
The fuel nitro % also plays a part where your temps likt to be at. Also, the same for you plug choice.

Totally ignore the temp range in the HPI manual and tune to feel at the trigger, the sounds the engine makes, and the smoke coming out of the stinger. Then, temp you engine and memorize the temp range the engine behaves the best.

SLAYERDUDE

^ I agree with SavageJim.
Also I heard stuff about that duracrap flashpoint.
Something like it has to be set at 77E or some crap like that.
To test the accuracy the next time you are cooking in the oven temp the oven and see if it jives. (I have heard that different heads/glow plugs with silver or black makes a difference so...?)
I wouldn't trust or use the temp gun as a guide.
Only as a second opinion.
You should point it directly at the glow plug, I rest mine right on the head pointing down the hole.

Like Jim said smoke and sound.
If you have a high jittery sound after a high speed pass you are lean or have an air leak.
Lean jitters is a bad sound you don't want to hear.
Also always set your final tune after the engine is fully warmed up.
The Savages lean out when the fuel gets low so if you tune at 1/2 tank it will help keep it rich enough when the fuel gets low.

Cut a hole in the windshield directly in front of the engine.

Hope some of that helps

SLAYER

tdot-Mex

i keep hearing so many bad things about the 5.9 but iv had nothing but luck with mine the xl was the first truck i got and had no clue wat i was doing, i put that engine through so much abuse in the break in process and after and it had never given me any real headachs and that was wen i dident no much, now that i now so much more i recently rebuilt it and it seems to run even better, iv had no problems with it starting or holding a tune or anything wheelies on demand and has decent top end, im gunna get a picco 28 and lrp.30 so i can compare and see wat all the fuss is about.

cheers

wolfie1

Well i bought 1 of these laser temp guns of the snap on van that comes in past my work and i am really careful about over heating it i am constantly checkin that i am not over 120c i think in the imperial scale it would be around 260f. Cause there is no way i am destroying an engine if i can help it, not that its helping much lol well at least Hpi replace them under warranty cause they see they havent been cooked

SAVAGEJIM

The Snap-On automotive temp guns are really good. My neighbor used to have one (he is a diesel engine mechanic) and we used it all the time to temp our Savages when we are out running.

Just make sure you buy one that is not made in china; the chinese ones are unreliable (these are the ones that cost like $50-60 USD).

BudBud

270 to 300 seems to be their operating range. My modded 5.9 runs much cooler and makes a lot more power. I know mine went over 330 several times.

Rapidito

How can you do that? I have a Savage X with a 5.9 and I have the same experience. Less than 260 and the top speed decrease significantly. What modscan I do to avoid that (and the engine to produce more )? A Nova RC Cooling Head?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

your probally gunna get send it to supertib and a different pipe...

the lug

SAVAGEJIM

His Kingstar is modded. Though the engine might be compromised some as far as structural integrity, it has definitely seen serious power increases from the mods. Check out some of the vids he posted.

steed2-inactive

f4.6 engines are great and pretty durable too! mine has been well over 400 degrees before and still runs great. its good to have a durable engine when you are learning how to tune!

FP 4LC4PON3

even tho i dont own a savage but have planning on it i will be doing the same. ive heard so much **** about the 5.9 its pathetic.

SLAYERDUDE

I'm wondering from whom you have heard all the 5.9 issues.
Mine runs great!
The 3 guys that I told to buy the 5.9XL have great running XL's as well.
I did give them tuning tips while they got the hang of nitro...
Not just nitro noobs you have heard blowing engines or anything I hope.
Here's what my XL 5.9 had to say about gallon #7
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEHzkGSei_4[/youtube]

wolfie1

that backflip is well cool i am gonna have to try that once i get my xl back together again

enoctis

This is my first nitro truck and my temps run around 245-255 and I think it's running pretty well. After 1700 today I'll be able to run it again (sealed the engine yesterday) and I'll lean it out a bit to see if I get better performance. I'll post results.

wolfie1

I would be interested in the results you got from trying different things, keep em posted!

SAVAGEJIM

Just to account for that hot Texas heat, you might want to give more leeway to running a bit hotter than 255degreesF. Since you are Killeen, I can gaurantee you will see about 110 degrees outside with heat index, and thta could push your engine to higher temps, especially at 1700hrs (just about the hottese of the day).

To help quench some of that heat in between combustions, you might want to go with 30% nitro because it is more volatile and will take more heat with it away as it evaporates. (The evaporation actaully also helps in better dispersing the fuel into the air to help combustion of your next powerstroke).

For your engine, actually, I think you might be running it a bit richer than what ite should be. Is your engine fully broken in yet? If not, then continue to keep it on this rich side.

Other than that, carry on soldier!

enoctis

Well, It's only got a gallon through it. I just now got to run it for the first time since sealing the engine (I'm on my lunch break) and it seems that my tune is all outta whack now. Perhaps I didn't count the turns on my needles correctly, or maybe the engine was just leaking a LOT of air. Either way I will get it back in tune when I get home and mess with it from there. I keep seeing everyone post temps upward of 300. Well at least I know I don't need to kill the engine when it gets to 280

On another note, I can't get 30% anywhere around Killeen The closest place is in Dallas, which is a 2.5 hour drive. Not quite worth the trip. So, here's my proposition to you Jim, if you could pick up some Byron's 30%, I'll send you the money and you could hopefully mail it to me?

You wouldn't have to worry about HAZMAT shipping charges b/c the good 'ol United States Postal Service will allow you to bring in a box that's already sealed and ship it without ever opening it. Get a flat-rate box and BAM-O. We can discuss what you'd want to charge for the hassle if you think this sounds like a good proposal. Please?