ChaseMe

Went to throw my new LRP .30 in the XL today and seems I have an issue. When the flywheel was on the 5.9 I couldn;t see the brass collet between the flywheel and front bearing, the flywheel was almost right up against the front bearing. Now on the LRP.30 I can't get the flywheel down the collet very far, I have a good 1.5-2mm gap between the flywheel and front bearing. The end result of this is the screw at the end of the shaft pushes on the spacer thus locking the bearing for the clutch bell!

So if this screw is all the way in, the clutch bell wont spin free. I tried setting the screw out a little and lock-tite'ing it but I don't trust that AND the clutch is spinning pretty rough against the spacer. I can see about 1mm of gap from the screw hole to the spacer. I tried as hard as I could to crank down the nut for the flywheel assuming it'll push it in, but it's locked as solid as I can get it to go!

I'll try to update this thread with pics tonight to help my explanation.

jbooker82

My Feedback: (4)

Which collet are you using? The LRP or the HPI? Ofna makes a nice clutch bell shim kit. It comes with various thickness spacers and shims.

ChaseMe

I'm using the collet off the 5.9, so the HPI one. There was no collet included with the LRP! What are you guys with LRP's using?!

ChaseMe

Ok I've read enough now to know I need to stick with my HPI collet. I'm thinking I can try a skinnier shim at the end of the shaft. Is it a 'no no' to stack shims/washers to achieve my proper gap?

SLAYERDUDE

I got rid of the #86171 spacer long ago and replaced it with some washers from the hardware store.
Just make sure the washer against the bearing only rides on the inner brg race and your good to go.

ChaseMe

Good to hear, I think I have some nice small washers in my IRC screw kit that should only hit the inner ring of the bearing.

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Ya, I used the HPI collet and the HPI throttle cup. Both from LRP gave me issues.