RC_MT_4

Went and got myselfe an RC nitro truck today
unfortunately i got one that doesn't run because it was uber cheep and the guy seemed retarded so i figured it would be something simple to fix it. So i got it home and cranked it over a little with the drill, it was sucking fuel, glow plug was getting hot, but no start. So as of right now i have riped the engine out of the truck to begin the long process of cleaning, did i mention how dirty this thing is!!! Had to buy a screw kit for the truck because it was honestly missing half of the screws, guy was one of the guys that seemed to think "just cause there is 8 bolts holding the motor in doesnt mean it needs 8, im just going to put 3 back in " guy at the hoby shop said good thing it didnt run or it would have striped stuff cause you coulc move the motor back and forth almost an inch in the chassis So i have gave up for the night, going the clean the rest of the truck off tomorrow outside, re assemble the engine, back in the truck, reset to factory jetting, new fuel, and see if she goes... here is some pics
when she got home

no more engine, lots of filth!

engine in parts

internals look good to me

extra rims and tires

extra parts...

more extra parts

here is where the frame connects in the middle, i didn't take out any of the screws, thats what it was like when i got the truck... the guy was driving it like this...


Hopefully i can get it running, if not im going to go buy some new fuel cause i have no idea how old it is, any way to tell if its good?

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

How much did you get it for? Good way to tell if fuel is still good is by smelling it. Take a big wiff and if you have to stop fast, then you know it's still good. Hey, maybe the guy was a racer that was trying to shed some weight by taking out unneeded screws...

RC_MT_4

well the fuel definitely has a really strong smell to it! decided to check why the stearing was only turning about half of what it should, found the 2 posts that hold the stearing system at the front had plenty of play in them because they were loose go figure... really nothing would surprise me about this truck now, i swear i have seen it all!

by the way, this is my first actual RC car... its turning out to be kinda like buying it in a kit, just you have to take it apart before you put it together Figured i might as well buy a truck that needs some work so i can learn stuff at the beginning and know how to fix stuff later... so im kinda just learning as i go here!

And i traded the guy an old desk top computer my mom was going to throw out about a year ago because it was so slow.

-SomeGuy-

Good trade! I would do a complete teardown.

RC_MT_4

Well i gave it a bit of a washing today, its not really clean but its come a long way... Found the starting issue i believe, the line that goes from the exhaust to the tank had a nice big crack in it [&o] Going to town at lunch to get a new gas line and hopefully she should fire up... i blew on the line a little to get some nitro into the motor and it smoked a little, so hopefully it is just an air leak and i will be driving this thing by afternoon

edit: ohh and it turned out some of the "spare parts" were actually important parts that need to be on the truck to stop it from falling apart

SyCo_VeNoM

HAHAHAHA best one I read in a few days

dunno sounds like the guy had absolutely no idea what he was doing (kinda like the guy I got mine off of)
if thats the case you might need a new engine (might be better to just get one off the bat, and not struggle with a used)
if you look for a new engine look for a new F4.6 (not K4.6) or get a LRP .30 or something. The f4.6's are also sold as F.28 (usually out of a buggy) but they are the same engine

head_hunter

Check the crank. My 4.1 broke its crank after about 4 gallons of fuel. Took it to the LHS and HPI replaced the entire motor @ no cost to me. Also I have found an old tooth brush, childrens size and a box of baby wipes will work miracles on cleaning that beast. Welcome to the RC world.

RC_MT_4

Well i dont really want to spend the money on a new engine, rather just get this one going... When i took the engine apart there was 3 brass rings that sealed the head, but now it doesnt seal and all the compression is comming out the top of the engine [] how tight do i need to tighten the head bolts on this thing? last thing i want to do is strip the **** out of the threads, but i need it to stop leaking!

head_hunter

I am a pretty big guy and I crank them down till the allen hurt my hand. Have your local hobby shop check it out.

SyCo_VeNoM

Read this http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_87...tm.htm#8763733
Very helpful post

RC_MT_4

well unfortunetly i dont have a local hobby shop, I did how ever manage to fix the issue, aparently when i was putting it togather i got some dirt between the rings and it was allowing leakage, after figuring that out i tried starting it again... problem was i forgot that i left the throttle wot and blew one the line to get some fuel up to the engine... too much went in and the motor wouldnt turn over [:@] after a few minutes of cursing to myselfe about how retarded i am for breaking the crank... went back and realized i had some how managed to make my drill go backwards (using a drill cause i killed the roto start battery trying to start it so much) so that was great, i loook down the hole to see if the piston is moving now and get a bunch of nitro in my eye... more cursing and swearing... running into the house... washing my eye out... and i think it may start now! just have to charge the glow plug igniter again

head_hunter

I am a carpenter by trade so my "roto-starter is a dewalt cordless drill. Plus faster fix time with one on hand. You are going to want to get at least 3 igniters and just # and rorotate them. Good l

head_hunter

Plus my 5yr old broke the actual one.
Good luck

RC_MT_4

well i tried again, and plagued with more problems, its still not sucking the fuel up the line like i think it should. and any time i hit the throttle all the gas runs out of the line... im thinking maby its the throttle position... could someone kindly post a picture down the air intake of the carb at idle? would be a great help! i managed it get a nice pop out of it so i know there is something there, just not in the right ratios.

edit: it runs! had it idling for 10 seconds, hit the gas and it died... glow plug igniters dead yet again...

SyCo_VeNoM

at idle the carbs setting should be 1mm to 1.5mm

head_hunter

feather the throttle when you get it started I usually warm it up in the air before I run it on the ground until it warms up it will die on me likethat

RC_MT_4

ok so i got it running again, but when i turn the electronics on the servo begins twitching and closes the carb off, any reason why it would do that? also one other thing, there is a line on the part of the carb that slides back and forth, does it need to be up or ahead or anything?

RC_MT_4

servo twitch fixed... found out the batteries were almost dead So i had it so it would start up every time, idle for a few seconds then shut off... but i was retarted and messed with the LSN first instead of the HSN, and now i don't know how to set the LSN back to where it should be... it never seems to bottom out like the HSN... or do you bottom it out by turning it out of the hole? im lost!

it also seems like the engine doesn't want fuel now...i can prime the lines, go to start it, and all the gas will just run back into the tank, anyone know what im doing wrong here?

head_hunter

On the 4.1 it is at factory setting when both are flush

jrp124

This might help!


http://www.hpiracing.com/instruction...-savage_25.htm

RC_MT_4

that helped me get my throttle linkage figured out, aparently it was all screwed up to i don't see in there how to put the truck back to factory jetting though. can anyone tell me how to do this?

edit: wow i feel really stupid now... i cant follow a simple diagram [&:] got the jetting right now, started right up and idled for a bit, hit the gas and it reves up nice... couldn't drive it though cause its dark and i haven't tested radio range yet... thats just what i need is hearing the sound of my new truck screaming off into the distance

SyCo_VeNoM

you might want to order one of these http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=10608
that should blow the stock am transmitter away range wise (heard only good things about them)


good to hear the last owner didn't totally destroy the engine

head_hunter

You must be up and running now! Over all it sounds like you made a hell of a deal for an old computer.. You will want to. Look into a full set of RPM arms. They will save you a ton of broken parts and down time.good luck and welcome to the savage clan

RC_MT_4

yea i found a good way to start it, if you hold a blow dryer on the cooling head for a little before you start it she starts right up and runs good... so good i forgot to turn the receiver on, truck tore across my lawn, just missing my dog, bounced off a metal pole and drove into my house lesson lerned, dont start your truck with out the receiver on, lucky it didn't break cause its a savage let the tuning begin

thanks for all the help with his thing, im a bit of a noob

RC_MT_4

what can i use as a substitute to tire glue? apparently the tires aren't glued verry good and look like they are going to fly off