devcon9

Well, I was hoping to report another 2x2 has joined the ranks, but as usual in the UK they have ****** up my delivery.[]


Tony

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

So here we all sit, having spent money on a Plane without knowing for sure how it will fly. Just betting on the good reputation of CA. I hope someone get's their's finished and flying soon so we can hear about it. I am hoping it is a great 3D machine.

devcon9

That is a 'leveller' comment.

devcon9

Has arrived, box well battered, but model intact, see what you mean about the canopy.. overall very impressed

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

What prop you guys going to use for the 2X2 w/DA50 for 3D flying ?
22X10, 22X8, 23x8 ?

Thanks

Dave Wilshere

Guy's

The Stand off situation is that the red stand-offs come with European motors with metric threads-You funny guys have imperial threads in yours....

I have two kits arrived-probably go electric with both but may go ZDZ40 (23 x 8) in one as I have these from Graupner and the cyclinder doesn't stick out of the cowl as much as the DA 50.

I'm not fussed about the canopy as it sucks with a silver screen, i'll re paint it dark blue/black.

Only down side I see so far is the lack of down elevator available (though the elevator is large in size)


Dave Wilshere

didiwatt

My Feedback: (38)

Dave:
I agree on the down elevator. Full deflection is not that much and the amount of power to get the full deflection is a lot. I was pondering the thought of removing the lip entirely. What is your thoughts on that?
Paul Eagon

Dave Wilshere

Paul

NO!

If you run a screw driver down the lip to flex it away from the lower surface, it's the bead of resin making the flex shield stiff. Once it's been pulled out a couple of times it frees up. Clean the inside edge with some fine glass paper or you will score the elevator finish.
I can get all the movement available without much servo strain-What is needs is the cut line on the lower surface off set more like the other Comp ARF stuff

Dave

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

Got mine. Seams are terrible. So bad that I will need to sand them down allot before I try to hide them with vinyl. The canopy and wheel pants seams are so bad I will have to repaint them. Even worse, there are what look like bubbles between the plane and the mold. At the very front of the plane. This will require some body work and paint. This is not shipping damage, just poor QA. This bird could not have been inspected. If they had more in stock, I would return this and order another, but they don’t and I don’t want to wait a month to see how it fly’s.

As someone else mentioned, getting 45 deg down from the elevators is going to take some kind of modification. With the hinge line on Top, we will actually need more like 50 deg down to compensate, in order for good 3d flying. I don’t see this happening but will try with the help of my hired professional builder.

Other then bad seams (worse then what they say to expect), flaws caused by molding issues and a serious problem with down elevator range, all else looks pretty good. This is an early batch. I am sure they will get better. If it flies as good as I hope, it will be worth it. But unless we can fix the elevators, it won’t. (at least not 3D).

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

The DA Manual says if there is not 1 inch between the carb and firewall, make a hole in the firewall. Are you guys doing that ?

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

The Exhaust can sits on the wing tube ? This looks like a vibration issue. Sits at such an angle the rear of the can sticks out of the fuse ( from whole we made) No way to get even close to 45 Deg down from elv. Rotation pins on main wing have allot of slop. Lots of yellow over spray on the Red paint.

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

I have been working with CA and DA about the exhaust issue. If you read closely in the directions on page 22, they mention 2 optional exhaust cans. What I have (the TD75K) and one smaller in diameter the TD75. What we are planning to do is exchange the Can for a smaller one and exchange the header with one with a 50 MM Drop. The hope is (and I think it will) with the header drop it will reduce the angel of the can that is needed to clear the wing tube, and with the smaller diameter can, give us a little more room. CA and DA are being helpful in resolving this issue. I will advise when we get the new parts.

On the Elevator problem, we have it up to almost 45 degrees down deflection now. Not easy though. If you take away about 1/8 from the Lip, increase the angel on where they meet on the end AND remove some of the foam form the “bottom leading edge of the Elevator where is was hitting the bottom trailing edge of the hor stab”. There is some foam there you can remove.

devcon9

Have to send it back, all the servo screws supplied will only fit JR, no thought for us Futaba users. (LMAO)

Tony

charliep

My Feedback: (5)

Dick Hanson, Howdy. At 1140 sq in the 2x2 isn't going to meet your standard for loading. History shows that these planes fly very well at heavier weights - I assume you have flown Ray's. That said, I have flown 2.6's at 25.5 lbs (mine) and one at 29 pounds and they feel exactly the same. We also have two 2.3's in Havasu at 19lbs and they fly a slight bit heavier than the 2.6 at 25 lbs, but still very well. No real differences until you are within ground effect on landing. Nothing like your creations, however.

My 2X2 arrived today. Looks very good with the exception of one 3/8" ection of the seam ahead of the canopy, and it will get covered with trim tape so no problem.

Rainman-ACRF

Mine turned up yesterday. First impressions are good and the seams aren't as bad as I was expecting, although the canopy leaves a lot to be desired as it has some very prominent seams. The plain silver colour isn't terribly inspiring. This doesn't bother me in the slightest as I don't mind re-doing the canopy myself.

Also got the Model Motors AXI 5330/18, Jeti 77Opto Esc and 10S3P 6000mAh ThunderPower Lipo. However, the "Electric Installation kit" is still on back order from Composite-ARF.

Phil

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

The other header and pip solution will not work. The Can is just going to set at a steep angle. We will see if this will work or not.

didiwatt

My Feedback: (38)

`1

didiwatt

My Feedback: (38)

Jeff:
I don't understand what the problem is you are having. I have the DA-50 and TD75K set-up but have not started on the installation. I have read and re-read the installation in the manual with this exact set-up. I looks pretty clean and they do not indicate any alterations are necessary. I have other projects going so I set this on the shelf until there is a little more information in this thread concerning set-up, etc. Could you expand a little on your problem?
Thank You
Paul Eagon

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

Sure. I would send pics, but RCU won't let me. Maybe I have to be a senior member. Anyway, the problem is the Can is too long. Getting under the Wing tube is very tight. And because the header does not have a drop in it, you have to angle the can down, therefore resulting in the rear of the can sticking out the rather large hole you have to make in the bottom of the fuse. So the last 2 or 3 inches of the can sticks out of the fuse about 1/2 inch. Does not look nice. Also this means that the Teflon tubing is bent at an angel and I am told this might not hold up. It is interesting that in all the pics of the DA and can installation in the 2x2, show the hole in the fuse, before the can is installed and only show the can installed in shots where you can not see the area I am talking about.
I worked with DA and they were very helpful but did not currently have a solution.

CA says they fly the 2x2 with this setup ?

So in the end it does not look good, the can is almost touching the wing tube and the Teflon connector is bent.

I will be test flying my 2x2 this weekend. I guess we will see how it works.

You might want to consider a Pitts style exhaust. Not sure it would work but there has to be a better solution then this.

Gaaaz

You can see some build pics of the 2x2 on the German Composite website
[link=http://www.composite-arf-world.de/ea2x2-da50.htm]http://www.composite-arf-world.de/ea2x2-da50.htm[/link]

There are no pics of the pipe (MTW TD75K) yet on the site, but i'll post them here.
Maurice didn't bent the teflon connector but made a drop in the MTW header.
The MTW header consist of 2 pieces, a 180° turn an a 90° turn. You can heat the weld between these 2 pieces and turn the 90° piece about 1.6mm down to create a drop in the header. Put back some silver in the weld.
The muffler doesn't touch the wing tube and doesn't stick out the fuse.

Gr Gaaaz

More pics will be added on German Composite website, there's also a movie of the first test run with the DA50.

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

Well that’s Brilliant !!! Un solder, adjust and re solder the header. Maybe CA should put that step in the Manual. Or at the very least tell their employees about so when you call they at least have that suggestion. Well to be fare, this is the first run of this product, but still, CA says this is the setup they fly.

1 question. With the Pipe being a 180 and a 90 deg parts, adjusting the 1 connection would put the exit end of the header at an angle wouldn’t it ? Although it appears that may work, to get the can back level again, doesn’t there have to be some bend in the Teflon tube ? I am told that can be a problem. If we had a header with an actual drop in it (rather then just angled down) that might work even better. Or one that was a 3 piece unit, then we could customize the fit, get the correct amount of drop and have the exit level, not at any angle.

But still, your solution is better then what I have now and the best suggestion I have heard yet.

So who’s bird is that in the Pics ? Who came up with the idea ?

In all my calling and countless E Mails to CA tech support (you can’t get CA on the phone, only your sales rep) Tech support has never returned an E Mail. Only my sales rep, and he had no real suggestions. Just denied there was a problem. Acted as if this was the first time anyone had this problem.

I love CA’s birds, but I am sure frustrated with the service (tech support).

DA on the other hand has tried very hard to help. Good people over there at DA.

charliep

My Feedback: (5)

CA tech support is probably a direct line to Andreas. I tried to help them with a list of corrections to the origonal manual for the 2.6, but the response was that there were no problems. Andreas doesn't accept suggestions graciously. That's one reason the pre-drilled servo mout holes are still too big for industry stardard servo screws after 2 years of production. Fortunately the product makes up for shortcomings in the documentation and detail.

Rainman-ACRF

Started work on mine last night. The intention was to follow the order in the manual but we've deviated already. Undercarriage was first up and is pretty straight forward and took no time at all - a very sturdy arrangement. The cowl and the canopy are supposed to be done next but I'll leave them until last since I can't really fit the cowl until I've got the woodwork for the electric motor installed (on backorder).

Onto the stabs - the carbon spar won't fit through the hole in the fuselage at all and is very tight in the stab halves. I'm having to fettle it to fit by lightly rubbing down the carbon spar until it fits the stab halves and then work on cleaning up the hole in the fuselage - don't want to make it fit one part only to be loose on the other. I'm a little disapointed to have to muck about with something so basic - some QA obviously lacking. A shame as the overal quality looks very good.

There are usual Comp-Arf bags for both wings, both stab-halves and the rudder. The manual isn't too bad either, although it's in black and white. Recommend downloading the colour PDF manual from the Comp-Arf site as the pictures are a lot clearer.

Note, theres is absolutely no woodwork installed at all for motor installation. I suppose this is to keep the weight down to a minimum with so many possible power solutions.

Regards,

Phil

charliep

My Feedback: (5)

Thankx for the tip on the color version of the manual - it is better.

Manual says drill out the fuse holes to 6mm for anti-r pins - as if we all have metric drill sets handy!

Re the cowl, since I'm using gas, and he recommends additional bolt-downs, I'm going to dispense with the rear latch mechanism.

Might check, my wing wardware pack was short one aileron servo box. Also, my earlier plane had trim tape for the seams, but none was included.

charliep

My Feedback: (5)

15/64ths is a perfect fit for drilling 6mm wing/stap alighment pegs.

Now, how the h--l do you get the stab tube to fit the stab halves? Mine won't go in an inch before it binds tight. Sure hate to sand down the tube, not to mention the carbon mess. Are you guys having the same problem? How did you handle it?