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  1. #1

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    vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Dear All, My vulcan racing car refuses to start but when i put fuel straight in the carburettor or through air filter the car splutters to life but after that again the car goes off. i have tried blowing through the exhaust and checked everything but the fuel does not seem to come across kindly advise photographic advises would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    I find the fuel tank lid doesn't seal all that well. A leak keeps the tank from pressurizing when you operate the pull start and fuel is not drawn into the carburator. MAke sure lid is down tight and you might need a different o-ring. Try the plumbing section of the hardware store for one.

    It may be as simple as you're not getting the fuel to the carb. Hold finger over the exhaust and pull the starter. YOu should see the fuel travel along the fuel line to the carb. Once it's at the carb, pull a few more times to prime the engine. Then attach glow-starter and try to start it.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Thank you for the assistance but i have already tried blowing on the mufler and closing the muffler while trying to start but nothing the fuel still does not flow to the engine.

  4. #4
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Is this a new vehicle, or one that you've had a while? On vehicles that sit for a while, the carb needles sometimes get plugged with fuel residue. Unscrew the needles and using a syringe (or other means) force alcohol (or even fresh fuel) through the carb to soften and release the residue. Or you can just remove the carb, disassemble and clean with alcohol (soak parts for a while first)

    If it's a new vehicle, just try opening up the HSN a bit more.

    Also, make sure your throttle is open a bit. If it can't suck air, it can't suck fuel.

    Any other info you can tell us may help us come up with ideas that can help.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    HI A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU. MY Vulcan is a new vehicle, i opened the high speed needle but even then it did not suck the fuel.

  6. #6
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    If blowing on the muffler did not force fuel to the carb, you probably have an airleak somewhere. On mine, it was the fuel tank lid not sealing. It can also be the pressure line from the muffler to the fuel tank. They can easily split, usually right next to the muffler nipple.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Hi Happy New Year. Are you still having this issue? This is Dave with GotNitroOnline and we support the IRC Buggies. Trying taking the high speed needle all the way out and blow fuel through the carb. Also make sure nipple on exhaust for pressure is not blocked.

    Feel free to contact me directly dave@gotnitroonline.com


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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Dear Mr.Argess, thanks for the tips but now i seem to be enveloped myself with a new problem. grateful for ur kind views and suggestions.
    After having the gas leak thing fixed I put some fuel in the tank and wanted to start the engine for the first time (please remember this is my first nitro car and I had not even tested it apart from putting fuel).
    I inserted new batteries both in the receiver as well as the radio. I switched on the radio first and then the receiver, upon switching on the receiver a small noise was made and the servos moved a bit (tiny bit) when I wanted to check on the throttle there was no movement, similarly for the st trim and the th trim.
    I have taken a video where u will see only a tiny movement of the servo on switching on the receiver and after that nothing happens (I hope the video is good enough) even if I try to turn the st or th. Kindly advise as I believe it is not servo issue as it moves a tiny bit when I switch on the receiver. Grateful if u could suggest ways to resolve my problem. Thanks a lot. One more question is whether we can replace servos of RC Helis in the nitro cars or would I have to buy the entire receiver radio combination as I have two spare servo of heli.
    The link to the video in u tube is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJRz_ug5zXE

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Dear Mr.Dave, I had tried emailing u at the email id provided by you i.e. dave@gotnitroonline.com but the mails have been returned with the following message

    "
    :
    child status 100...The e-mail message could not be delivered because the user's mailfolder is full.

    - Below this line is a copy of the message.

    Return-Path:
    Received: (qmail 5351 invoked from network); 3 Jan 2010 20:32:11 -0000
    Received: from unknown (HELO m1pilmo01-002.prod.mesa1.secureserver.net) ([10.8.12.32])
    (envelope-sender )
    by p3plsmtp01-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (qmail-1.03) with SMTP
    for ; 3 Jan 2010 20:32:11 -0000
    "

  10. #10

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    dear dave as the mail is not going thru i might list the problem here itself and provide u with the video links
    Dear Mr. Dave, Thank you for your kind proposition of helping me out. I got the fuel portion sorted by making it tighter with a rubber band (guess air was leaking) anyway now I have an entirely different problem. I hope you would assist me.
    By now you would have known I am a total beginner and require assistance in minor things.
    After having the gas leak thing fixed I put some fuel in the tank and wanted to start the engine for the first time (please remember this is my first nitro car and I had not even tested it apart from putting fuel).
    I inserted new batteries both in the receiver as well as the radio. I switched on the radio first and then the receiver, upon switching on the receiver a small noise was made and the servos moved a bit (tiny bit) when I wanted to check on the throttle there was no movement, similarly for the st trim and the th trim.
    I have taken a video where u will see only a tiny movement of the servo on switching on the receiver and after that nothing happens (I hope the video is good enough) even if I try to turn the st or th. Kindly advise as I believe it is not servo issue as it moves a tiny bit when I switch on the receiver. Grateful if u could suggest ways to resolve my problem. Thanks a lot. One more question is whether we can replace servos of RC Helis in the nitro cars or would I have to buy the entire receiver radio combination as I have two spare servo of heli.
    the you tube links for the videos are http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJRz_ug5zXE and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQfn5xTnEOQ

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    [<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/VJRz_ug5zXE&hl=en&fs=1">

  12. #12

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    ok guys how do we embed you tube videos

  13. #13
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    ORIGINAL: premvijay

    Dear Mr.Argess, thanks for the tips but now i seem to be enveloped myself with a new problem. grateful for ur kind views and suggestions.
    After having the gas leak thing fixed I put some fuel in the tank and wanted to start the engine for the first time (please remember this is my first nitro car and I had not even tested it apart from putting fuel).
    I inserted new batteries both in the receiver as well as the radio. I switched on the radio first and then the receiver, upon switching on the receiver a small noise was made and the servos moved a bit (tiny bit) when I wanted to check on the throttle there was no movement, similarly for the st trim and the th trim.
    I have taken a video where u will see only a tiny movement of the servo on switching on the receiver and after that nothing happens (I hope the video is good enough) even if I try to turn the st or th. Kindly advise as I believe it is not servo issue as it moves a tiny bit when I switch on the receiver. Grateful if u could suggest ways to resolve my problem. Thanks a lot. One more question is whether we can replace servos of RC Helis in the nitro cars or would I have to buy the entire receiver radio combination as I have two spare servo of heli.
    The link to the video in u tube is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJRz_ug5zXE
    First the Radio. I watched your video. It was a little hard for me to see what was going on,, plus the sound dissapeared shortly into the video, so no hearing anything either. It appeared you had some throttle/brake control, or did you?

    With the Tx ON, it is normal ot hear a small noise from the servos when you turn on the RX as they move to the postion dictated by the TX, even if that means everything is just trying to center. I found the steering servo woefully underpowered. It wouldnt' turn the wheels while sitting on the workbench. Try lifting your vehicle up in that air and try the steering. Also make sure your D/R thumbwheell on the TX is not turned down. I put in a HS 65HB (had to make some mods to the servo mounts, but it works fine....so you may have a better one in your heli parts box):

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKYL4&P=ML

    So ...is there any response at all when you use the TX? If not, make sure your TX and RX crystals are installed tightly and that the TX one is in the TX and the RX one is in the RX.....they arn't the same. TX antenna screwed in? RX antenna unraveled? Batteries are installed corectly and are not dead.

    Still no response? Disconnect one servo from the RX...say disconnect the steering one first. Now see if the throttle/brake works. If the throttle now works, it could be the steering servo, or steering mechanism is jammed and in trying to move, loads the RX batteries, dropping the voltage, and niether servo works. Next, try the steering servo and disconnect the throttle servo. I foudn my steering servo not only week, but there was some binding in the steering parts that made it worse.

    Please report back with as much info as you can determine and I'll see if I can help narrow down anything a little more.


    Note: This is your first Nitro? Your vehicle isn't the easiest one to deal with. I find the engine finickity to start until it is broken-in, and even then requires some fiddling each time I run it, dependant on the weather. I have some other info...I'll see if I can find it and cut and paste it here.




  14. #14
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Now mine isn't the Vulcan, but it basically the same, but with a lot of aluminum (bling), so I don't jump it much. It's the VTX-MB1. Anyways, here's what I found:

    Steering:

    Both loose and sticky were my first observations. Starting with loose, I found some of the screws that hold the axle hubs on had backed out. Tightened them all up with thread lock. At the same time, I greased the outside of all the brass cups that the screws tighten down. I pulled the whole servo saver/steering unit and greased the pivot pins still fastened to the chassis. I removed the stamped aluminum tie-rod link and flipped it over. That way, it puts the rounded edges against the other moving parts reducing friction and wear. I did a slight chamfer of the aluminum where the brass screw cups go in, and added grease as well. The stock steering servo just wasn’t up to snuff, so I replaced it with a HS-65HB. Used the Β½ servo-arm that came with the new servo and used the innermost hole for the ball mount. You need to trim off the tops of the servo mounts, and trim the slot in the rear one for the servo wire. Other than that, it was a pretty easy install. I think the stock servo might be OK, but mine seemed glitchy so I didn’t mind replacing it. The throttle servo worked fine.

    Transmission:

    Too cool…a 2-speed! OK…lots of work on this one. First of all, let me say the MB1 came with the heavy duty steel spur and clutchbell, so the old plastic spur wasn’t an issue for me. The spur/CB mesh was too tight from the factory, so I adjusted the engine mounting to get a tooth lash with just a β€œtick” of play. I did notice the top shaft (input shaft) could move back and forth a b it, so the spur/CB mesh didn’t line up that well. A thin shim inserted on the input shaft between the first input shaft bearing and the first gear fixed this. If you don’t have a proper thin washer, two can be found under the β€˜E’ clip holding on the spur gear. Use one of them for shimming, and then find a thick washer to make up for the 2 you removed from in front of the spur gear.

    On the bottom shaft, I noticed the gear houses the shifting dog mechanism wobbled a lot. The bearing it uses is a loose fit in the plastic gear. I carefully used some epoxy to hold the bearing in. Careful here, you don’t want the bearing to be locked up from glue.

    Normally one makes sure all β€˜E’ clips are installed with their sharp edges away from any force that might pop the clips off, but in the transmission, it is better to have the rounded edges facing anything that might be rotating fast. You’ll have to figure that out as you go.

    Now the fun begins……I wanted to preset my shift point. I did some math and figured out a good shift point would be around 3500 rpm for the shaft holding the shift dog. (If I remember my math right, at an engine rpm of 15,000, this shaft rotates about 3650. At a vehicle speed of about 10 mph, the same shaft rotates around 3350. So I used something nice in-between….3500 rpm). So I chucked the shaft (with gears) into my drill-press. Small gear closest to the drill chuck. Unfortunately my drill-press would only go up to 3000 rpm, so I adjusted the shift set-screw so the top gear just stopped engaging when I the drill-press came up to speed. Then I tightened the set-screw another ΒΌ of a turn which presumably would put the shift point up around 3500 rpm. Note: Later I found that this caused a shift way too early (and hard to notice). A shaft speed of about 4900 rpm, which was a road speed of 15 mph and an engine speed above 19,000 rpm, seemed to be more appropriate. I have yet to verify these numbers, but will eventually. [Note: I don't remember anymore where I set it, but I set it to shift fairly early....it's easier on the tranny that way]

    Differentials:

    What can I say? It is without doubt that cast aluminum gears will not last all that long, but until I figure out what to do about that, I thought I’d see what I can do to increase their longevity. First of all I looked at shimming. However everything was tight. No shims were needed (quite impressive actually). Next I looked at the grease used. Looked like some sort of clear silicon or perhaps lithium grease. Just the kind that can fling off and leave the gears dry after a few runs. So I added some of that HPI high pressure green grease. Very sticky. I probably should have cleaned the other grease off, but feeling like a mad chemist, I thought I’d leave a mix of the two in place (or perhaps I was just too lazy to clean everything up). Note: so far the diff’s are holding up well, although I did re-grease after about 1 litre (1 US quart) through the engine.

    Engine:

    Yikes, what a pig to get going. Major blisters. And some blood. Anyway, the problem is there were no factory settings in the manual, other than the idle stop opening. And that turned out to be quite important. I adjusted the idle stop for a 1mm carb opening by using a drill-bit as a gauge and that kept the engine idle rpm decent (during break-in…it can be closed a bit after break-in). But this didn't keep the engine from starting as I raise the throttle trim a bit for cold starting. The major problem was the LSN was way to lean from the factory. You need to start with it about 1 turn out from flush. Before I did this, I could get it to run, then die, and then I had to re-prime again. Once the engine breaks in, the LSN can be leaned out a bit.

    It’s also important that you check what radio trim position gives you max open carb, because that’s where you’ll set your trim after your engine warms up and you can reduce the throttle trim required for stating a cold engine. Pull the air-filter and watch, and you’ll see what I mean when you hold full throttle and adjust the throttle trim at the same time. Just a quirk of the stock radio gear.

    One thing I didn't like was the fuel and pressure lines. They seemed to tear easily due to sharp edges on some of the barbed line fittings. Tougher fuel line was a quick, easy and cheap fix.

  15. #15
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJRz_ug5zXE[/youtube]

    I learend something new...how to embed a Youtube video. First, open up a new page and load in the youtube video you want. Highlight the address bar and select COPY.

    In your post, you write in the reply box...of course. At the top of the box, there are some selections. Select the YouTube button. You'll see a couple of Youtube inside brackets come up. PASTE the adress of the video between the two bracketed YOutube words. When you make your post, the video will come up.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    thank you all for the support and suggestions will try out ur advises and get back to u.regards

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Dear guys,
    As advised by you in your previous post I did everything as asked by you. First I checked on the crystals of the Tx and Rx (even interchanged them) had them secured properly and checked whether the antenna was firmly screwed in. I also purchased 8 AA and 4 AAA batteries for the Tx and Rx sets respectively. I switched on both and still the same old response both the servos produced a small alignment procedure and move a tiny weenie bit, I tried the steering as well as the throttle but there was no movement of any of the two servos.
    I then removed the throttle servo, the steering servo on switching on moved like before a tiny weenie small amount, then the steering servo removed and inserted throttle servo, throttle servo moved tiny weenie amount when switching on the Rx only but after that nothing.
    In conclusion both the servos moved only when the Rx switch was moved to the ON status but that too a very tiny amount and after that no response from either of the two servos. I am confused and frustrated now please advice.
    Is there a way to check if my crystals are ok and also the radio is functioning properly without having to open up the radio set? Thanks in advance for all ur valuable advises.

  18. #18
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    It is certianly starting to sound like your radio equipment is defective.

    One last test. With the Rx already on, switch on the TX. If the servos glitch at all when the TX is turned on, then the TX and RX are comunicating. If not, then I suspect you hacve faulty radio equip.

    The easiest way to determine what component is defective (Rx or TX, etc.) is by substitution. Hopefully you know some with the same radio equipment, or maybe at a local hobby shop.

    I hope it turns out you are merely doing something wrong, and an easy fix is at hand, but it doesn't sound like it.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    thanks for the suggestion will try as advised by you other wise i will take the radio to an electronic shop.take care and thanks

  20. #20

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    it was the crystals i tried with new crystal and the response is good now for the engine break procedure, will keep u guys abreast, thanks for alllllllllllllll the assistance

  21. #21
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Crystals are delicate....glad you found the problem. Will be pleased to hear how things are going. Let us know. Thanks.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    i really appreciate all the advises provide by you, now it seems the same old problem has rsurfaced, the fuel is not reaching the engine even after blowing on the muffler, i tried all suggestions as provided to me on this issue earlier, i have also changed the pipes but vulcan seems to be dead, i am beginning to think my hand is jinxed or something is terribly wrong with god knows what any advice, please note i have tried all the advises given during the beginning of this post [&:] rgeards

  23. #23
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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Ahhh.....I'd like to make some comments, but they'd be the same as before. So...I\ll try a different approach:

    Most of us prime the enigne by plugging the exhaust and cranking the engine over. Piston goes up, air is forced to muffler. Muffler is plugged, so air is forced into fule tank. Air pressure rises in fuel tank, so fuel is forced to carb.

    Why can't this happen?

    1/ engine has no compression.....could be as simple as glowplug is loose

    2/ exhaust system has leaks....check from muffler to cyl head for leaks

    3/ pressure line has leaks....visually inspect line

    4/ fuel tank has leak.......most usual place is o-ring on fuel cap

    5/ carb is plugged up....air has to get out for fuel to get in....clean carb and make sure HSN isn't seated all the way down

    NB.....mine still ahs the problem you have.....once in a while.....so far, it has always been traced back to the fuel cap 0-ring. Somtimes it seats and seals, sometimes it doesn't. #3 has also been an issue. Try disconnecting pressure line at muffler and blowing into it....wiggle cap and open and re-shut it.....see what happens.


    Anyway.....think it out, and then look for things that don't work the way they are supposed to.........that's troubleshooting.

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    thanks buddy, i have checked everything, feel like running the vulcan with my cars tyres. i wanna buy another piece now. Which of the two would u suggest for an ass like me so that i wont goof up anything in the future.
    1. Vortex SS Nitro Desert Truck
    2. Tomahawk vx 1/10 nitro

    and would my 2.4 GHZ heli radios work with my cars and trucks. regards

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    RE: vulcan 1/8 nitro car problem

    Dear Mr. Agress u must be having fits just seeing my name, i am back to haunt u again with my vulcan issue. i have tried and tried all the advises provided by u, now i have changed pipes etc. now there are no leaks from the mufler, pressure, exhaust system, fuel tanks have no leaks and the glow plug too is ok as i have the beep glow ignitor, finally are there any more advises left to be given by u, i would appreciate it. thanks and sorry for all the trouble regards


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