Spektrum Telemetry module and iPhone App.
#1327
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Springfield, VA
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I know I'm not the cheapest guy in town but pretty close. Anyway I have 2 dozen aircraft, most with Telemetry and have been putting TM1000's since they first came out. I think that was the DX7S. I have always used the Bind/Data port and a "Y" cable. Now I've had it working with AR600's through 8 channel radios, but something must have changed. Recently, I dug out a plane that hasn't been flown it 2 years. Originally, it all tested good in the front driveway. I did have to re-bind with the newer DX9 but everything tested good. Once at the field, I was getting good audio, but noticed no bars... So when did we need to start cutting the yellow wire? This never used to be the case. Once home I pulled another AR6110x and it worked fine. Two days later, I tested it and it was still working fine. Then last weekend, I fired it up and didn't pay much attention to the bars as the audio for Airspeed and Altitude were reading out. So I fly and land and with the motor running wanted to see the min/max screen for the max RPM. (New prop) the roller wouldn't work. I was still getting good telemetry data, but the bars were gone and the roller wouldn't scroll through the telemetry.
What changed that the yellow wire needs cutting, and only for certain receivers. I swapped in a 7 channel rx and it all works, so does the 8 channel. And one last question. Does the TM1000 care what port is used? I thought Bind/DATA, meant DATA...
Thanks
KKKKFL
What changed that the yellow wire needs cutting, and only for certain receivers. I swapped in a 7 channel rx and it all works, so does the 8 channel. And one last question. Does the TM1000 care what port is used? I thought Bind/DATA, meant DATA...
Thanks
KKKKFL
#1328
The yellow wire only needs to be cut when working with old receivers that don't support the DATA port, such as the AR6100, AR6110, and AR6200.
Receivers marked BIND/DATA are just fine.
Andy
Receivers marked BIND/DATA are just fine.
Andy
#1332
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Springfield, VA
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OK so I've been a fan of the optical sensor especially for applications like Gas engines or Non Super Tiger. The optical does need to be rewired see below.
And this works where you can get good light as in the old bird.
So this weekend I tried to install one in my RV-4. Rainy weekend so I was working in the driveway between rain drops. Try as I might it wouldn't work. I finally found that the cowl was not letting enough light in for the optical sensor to work.
This meant I needed to get creative and use the Hall effect sensor. I used my test bed back plate from an old spinner (I use it to test the optical) I drilled two holes opposite each other and cut off the excess. Then I used the balancer seen here to grind each until they were equal in weight.
Here one side has been cut.
You'll need to go to the RPM section and bump the ratio from 1:1 to 1:1.99
I'll post a picture of that working as soon as I find it.
KKKKFL
And this works where you can get good light as in the old bird.
So this weekend I tried to install one in my RV-4. Rainy weekend so I was working in the driveway between rain drops. Try as I might it wouldn't work. I finally found that the cowl was not letting enough light in for the optical sensor to work.
This meant I needed to get creative and use the Hall effect sensor. I used my test bed back plate from an old spinner (I use it to test the optical) I drilled two holes opposite each other and cut off the excess. Then I used the balancer seen here to grind each until they were equal in weight.
Here one side has been cut.
You'll need to go to the RPM section and bump the ratio from 1:1 to 1:1.99
I'll post a picture of that working as soon as I find it.
KKKKFL
#1333
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Springfield, VA
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Here's the shot of it running.
I built a fiberglass mount inside the cowl and then just glued the hall effect sensor so that it was about 2mm off the nuts. This gives you a little play if you use an electric starter and the shaft moves backwards. The sensor usually detects the large counter balance used on the bottom of crank shafts, now it is sensing each of the two nuts as they pass hence the necessity to up the ratio.
Hope this is helpful, I didn't know what thread best to post the findings on.
KKKKFL
I built a fiberglass mount inside the cowl and then just glued the hall effect sensor so that it was about 2mm off the nuts. This gives you a little play if you use an electric starter and the shaft moves backwards. The sensor usually detects the large counter balance used on the bottom of crank shafts, now it is sensing each of the two nuts as they pass hence the necessity to up the ratio.
Hope this is helpful, I didn't know what thread best to post the findings on.
KKKKFL
#1334
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Springfield, VA
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Now that I solved the Telemetry lockups by installing a torrid coil, I have a new question. Can a GPS unit be told to report lat/longs in DD/MM/SS instead of DD.xxxxxxxxxx
where x's are 1234567890. I have a neat iPhone app called Commander Compass also Spyglass (upgraded) and it uses DD/MM/SS as do all my other GPS devices.
Its a real PITA to have to convert from the DX9's screen that string of numbers.
Thanks
KKKKFL
where x's are 1234567890. I have a neat iPhone app called Commander Compass also Spyglass (upgraded) and it uses DD/MM/SS as do all my other GPS devices.
Its a real PITA to have to convert from the DX9's screen that string of numbers.
Thanks
KKKKFL
#1335
The GPS in the transmitters is intended for easy use with Google Maps (back when Apple still used Google Maps). If you have an iPhone, the GPS is handled internally with the STi app.
If you want to convert decimal to DD/MM/SS it's pretty simple.
DD you already have. That's good.
MM = integer portion of (.xxxxxxx * 60).
SS = (fractional portion of MM) * 60
Andy
If you want to convert decimal to DD/MM/SS it's pretty simple.
DD you already have. That's good.
MM = integer portion of (.xxxxxxx * 60).
SS = (fractional portion of MM) * 60
Andy
#1336
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Springfield, VA
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Tks Andy. I do use the STi app but found
another utility that you might want to check out
its called Spyglass (free version is commander compass)
it is for iPhone use. I can change the units
to decimal. Just wish I could use ddmmss
i find that the GPS from the plane is about
12 feet different. But that's good enough
another utility that you might want to check out
its called Spyglass (free version is commander compass)
it is for iPhone use. I can change the units
to decimal. Just wish I could use ddmmss
i find that the GPS from the plane is about
12 feet different. But that's good enough
#1337
GPS will vary a little according to the weather. Some days I get less than 6', other days more than 20.
I don't need the utility - I use an ancient Nokia, before Congress required integrated GPS to make tracking people easier for the NSA.
Andy
I don't need the utility - I use an ancient Nokia, before Congress required integrated GPS to make tracking people easier for the NSA.
Andy
#1339
#1340
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Sure will be nice to see the updated voice output that will speak velocity based on GPS.
Then I will be able to really understand the treacherous downwind turn....
"coming soon"
KKKKFL
Then I will be able to really understand the treacherous downwind turn....
"coming soon"
KKKKFL
#1341
#1343
Andy
#1347
My Feedback: (66)
I have a question for you guys. oh and i have'nt sit thru here to read all 54 pages so dont get to mad that I havent lol. I bought the GPS unit and i cant get it to find a satellite what is a main issue with these? Also once i updated to a Ipad 4 couple years ago all the data comes in real slow on the Ipad. RPM for example takes about 3 -4 seconds to reach max rpm and idle from high rpm is the same?
#1348
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Ok let me address these one at a time. First the GPS unit. If you read through the directions very carefully, it addresses mounting. Try to keep it text up and as out of the way as possible, I like just under or even inside the canopy. Next, if you have followed the mounting instructions and have the GPS enabled within your transmitter, it takes a good 5 to 8 seconds for the unit to "Lock" to the satellites. Also, I need to go outside the house.
Now for the RPM on the iPad, this is very dependent on the type of RPM sensor that you are using. My personal favorite is the optical pick-up where you put a small silver tape on the back of a prop spinner. Second best is the Hall effect sensor for nitro engines. Last resort is the electronic pick-up off the ESC for electrics. These electronic pick ups usually take longer to average out the pulses. If you are running electric try going the Optical route.
KKKKFL
Now for the RPM on the iPad, this is very dependent on the type of RPM sensor that you are using. My personal favorite is the optical pick-up where you put a small silver tape on the back of a prop spinner. Second best is the Hall effect sensor for nitro engines. Last resort is the electronic pick-up off the ESC for electrics. These electronic pick ups usually take longer to average out the pulses. If you are running electric try going the Optical route.
KKKKFL
#1349
My Feedback: (66)
Yes mounted correctly and even took it out and mount on 1/4 balsa sheet with receiver and all and nothing.
RPM sensor is the magnetic where it senses the crank pin. with the old Ipad it would read airspeed and rpm pretty fast. once I switched to the new Ipad and used the adapter for the Ipad it is very slow
RPM sensor is the magnetic where it senses the crank pin. with the old Ipad it would read airspeed and rpm pretty fast. once I switched to the new Ipad and used the adapter for the Ipad it is very slow
#1350
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If your not getting any GPS info at all the Rx/sensor may not be functioning. Try a different cable/lead first. Do you have any other sensors installed on the X-Bus? Have you tried the GPS sensor by itself on the Bus and in both the 1&2 ports?
Your STi dongle does have a good solid orange LED.Right?
I see you said you mounted it out with Rx and all. The sensor/GPS Rx itself needs to be away from everything else.
As for lagging. I havent used a pad much and I dont own one. On other devices it is a huge advantage to make sure you keep your recently used apps list deleted. Especially ones like Pandora. Despite what others have told me I found that many do continue to run in the background and/or stay partially resident and eat up memory and/or processor resources. Im not positive but I assume the same is true for pads. Ive run mine on iPhone 5 with the lightning adapter and it works fine. On any of my devices if I forget to clear the recents the STi app does get laggy and slow. Maybe this applies to your problem.
Your STi dongle does have a good solid orange LED.Right?
I see you said you mounted it out with Rx and all. The sensor/GPS Rx itself needs to be away from everything else.
As for lagging. I havent used a pad much and I dont own one. On other devices it is a huge advantage to make sure you keep your recently used apps list deleted. Especially ones like Pandora. Despite what others have told me I found that many do continue to run in the background and/or stay partially resident and eat up memory and/or processor resources. Im not positive but I assume the same is true for pads. Ive run mine on iPhone 5 with the lightning adapter and it works fine. On any of my devices if I forget to clear the recents the STi app does get laggy and slow. Maybe this applies to your problem.
Last edited by Aerocal; 01-13-2015 at 08:01 PM.