Citation01

My Feedback: (69)

I wish I knew you had to be a computer genius to program a JR11X as I am not and sorry I purchased it.

PLEASE, could and would someone please describe in detail how to utilize the BALANCE Function on the JR11X.

ETERNALLY GRATEFUL,
John

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

Newer Radios like the 11X and DX8 have fairly cryptic manuals. I think that the manufacturer thinks that for a radio this complex, that the people buying it have enough experience or something to just know how to use it. One thing that may help would be to read the manuals of the XP9303 and 10X radios. they do a really good job of explaning every function in detail and most of the information is valid on the newer radios.
http://www.jrradios.com/ProdInfo/Files/jrpm1111.pdf
http://www.jrradios.com/ProdInfo/Fil...241-manual.pdf

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Reading an XP9303 or 10X manual won't help much with understanding the aileron balance function on the 11X and 12X since only those two radios have the function.

There may be more information on the balance function available in the 12X manuals which can be downloaded from Horizon and the system, I believe, is identical.

Basically both those radios have the capability of running multiple aileron servos per surface. Once setup, the balance function is basically like a throttle curve in that the two servos on each side may be mated exactly throughout the travel range to prevent binding between the servos.

In my experience, if you pay close attention to the mechanical matching of the servos/linkages when assembling the model and then when setting up the neutrals and end point servo travels, the balance function isn't really necessary as I have so little difference between the current draw of the servos throughout their travel range that it's not worth monkeying with the balance. I use Hitec servos which can be programmed to basically match each other anyway which may account for part of the reason I don't need the balance function.

The biggest favor the OP can do for himself is to make sure he has backups of existing working model setups so if you screw somthing up you have a copy and don't have to start over. Then play with the radio to see what it'll do as it (I'm guessing it's like the 12X in most respects) will do a lot more things than can be found in the manual. It's just not practical to try and include specific step by step directions for every possible setup in the manual, you'd need a wheel barrow to carry the thing around.

AWorrest

My Feedback: (5)

John,

The BALANCE menu is used to make either dual/mated servos driving individual split surfaces or those that are ganged together driving a single surface to deflect the same for a given stick movement. Unless you are using mismatched servos or your linkage is badly configured, you will not gain too much from this function.

To demonstrate the BALANCE, you will need an actual aircraft or a mock-up. Start with a plane set for FLAPERON wing type. In the BALANCE menu you will see only the RAIL channel listed in the upper left corner of the screen. This tells you that the LAIL servo’s deflection can’t be changed and it will be the model that you will be duplicating on the RAIL. As you move the aileron stick, you will see that the message DEL will be displayed as you pass various points on the horizontal axis of the graph. Passing between the established points, the message will turn to ADD. If you press the bottom programming button when the ADD message is present, a point will be added at that stick location.

In the default condition, there are five horizontal points, P-L, P-1 through P-3, and P-H. You can add two additional points. But there can’t be more than seven points. Make sure the points are symmetrically place around the stick center. You can’t delete either P-L or P-H. These represent the aileron servo deflection of -/+ 150%. If the line on the graph doesn’t move far enough left or right, it is because you have the TRAVEL ADJ for the RAIL set too low. The stick position is indicated on the graph and by the "IN:" reading underneath.

It will be assumed that servo arms are centered and the linkages for the aileron are closely similar. Next attach an angular deflection gauge to each aileron. Move the stick right to the P-L position, -150. Take a reading of the left aileron deflection. Move the stick to the left to the P-H position +150. While holding that position, select the output of P-H and change it so the right aileron deflection is the same as the left. Repeat this for each deflection point.

For ganged servos as on the 4-AILE wing type, you will notice that when you highlight RAL1 and press the roller, you have only the choice of RAL1 (# 1 right aileron servo), LAL1(#1 left aileron servo), and RAL2 (#2 right aileron servo). This indicates that these three servos will have their deflections modified to match LAL2 (#2 left aileron servo). First disconnect RAL1 and LAL1 servos from the ailerons and their ganged counterparts. Leave RAL2 and LAL2 connected to the ailerons. Now match the deflection of RAL2 to LAL2 as described in the paragraph above by selecting the RAL2 channel.

After you made the left and right aileron deflections identical, it is time to match LAL1 to LAL2. You do this by using an ammeter. Select the LA1 channel. Mechanically reconnect LAL1 to LAL2. Use an ammeter to measure the current draw of LAL1. For each aileron deflection point change the OUT setting so the current draw is minimal.

Repeat this for RAL1 connected to RAL2. This an arduous procedure.

Allan

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I dont often rate posts but that one gets a 5.

Thanks Allan

Citation01

My Feedback: (69)

I would like to thank every one who has contributed to my question. No matter how INSIGNIFICANT or not applicable some people ( PRIVATE MESSAGES ) feel a few replies are. I have found they helped me expand my knowledge with these computer radios. Thank you all.

As for the reply from AWORREST, a fellow RC enthusiast rated your reply a 5. Obviously he has a great deal of computer radio knowledge as I would rate it a 9+. The only reason not a 10 is he did all but come to my house or have me go to his house. I have not attempted to try the balance function yet as he and others stated there should be minimal use for the function if all is set up correctly. After twenty plus years of doing things the way I was instructed, I find that I am making several mistakes in set up which need to be addressed first. After reading his post countless times, I have come to the conclusion the "BALANCE FUNCTION" is more of a band aid. A sincere thank you to AWORREST for taking the time to explain. Honestly, I never thought I would get such an in depth reply.

Thank you,
John

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well it sounds like you've come to the same conclusion I did, but it took me a whole day of screwing around trying to figure out how to make it work before I decided that any possible benefit wasn't worth the effort expended when it came to the balance function. Note especially one comment Allan made about a servo travel not being set correctly? That's where the fun starts..... []

After playing with matching the servos up, I found that a PAIR of inline servo current meters is a REALLY helpfull addition to your tool box. You can get close by listening but nothing beats those meters for telling you when you're matched and after awhile, trying to decern slight changes in the digitial servo "buzz" will make your head buzz.... lol

After chasing the project of matching the servos by current draw, I'm sold on the H9 Titanium type control rods which have a left hand thread on one end and a right hand thread on the other with "flats" in the middle so you can make really fine adjustments to the control rod lenth without removing them from the model. You'd be (or will be) surprised at how a little difference in those lengths can make quite a difference on what the inline meters are telling you about whether or not the servos are fighting each other.

As for Andy's "5" rating, I was a bit confused by that as well but then I read the "thanks Allan" and figured it's probably some kind of typo or something. Andy and Allan are probably two of the nicest most knowledgeable guys you'll find on the forums with Allan topping most I've seen when it comes to radios/electronics especially. His answer above is typical of what he posts and he never ceases to amaze me with the depth of his knowledge.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Wow y'all!

Click on the RATE POST button on the bottom right, the scale is only 1 star to 5 stars. He got all 5

AWorrest

My Feedback: (5)

Zeeb made a good suggestion when he pointed out that the way to learn to program a radio is to play with it. Sticking a trainer cord plug into the DSC connector allows you to turn on the transmitter logic without activating the RF. That minimizes the radiation exposure and on some transmitters, but not the 11X, significantly reduces the battery drain.

Sometimes when you run into a problem, it is best to turn off the radio, walk away, and let the problem simmer in the back of the mind. Recently I was about to complain to Horizon that the 11X’s snap flap function in GLID was wrong. Fortunately I was away from the phone when the call-back came. In the meantime it came to me that my perception of the function was wrong and it was working properly.

Allan