rcnutmd

My Feedback: (2)

i just put the 40% 330 arf on order anybody that has any info or tips as far as building goes would be greatly appreciated. i plan will be using a da 150 with mtw 110 cans i dont know the drop of the headers yet. thanks for any info john m

jtec radiowave kid

Go with the 90mm drop MTW flex headers. It is a nice, clean setup.

As for setup I have been running 2 JR 8611's on each aileron, 1 JR 8611 on elevator, and two Hitec 5735's on rudder (next one will have 2 or 3 JR 8611's on rudder probably).

rcnutmd

My Feedback: (2)

i will go ahead and order the headers next week. i will be using 3 8611a on rudder. thanks for the info. john m.

Edge

John, I just finished the one with the older scheme. Absolute dream to build/assemble. Went 8611a's all around, 3 on the rudder. No surprises, straight forward. There cowl installation is the easiest I have worked with. The guys at J'TEC aint to bad to deal with either.

John Christensen

rcnutmd

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john have you had a chance to fly yours yet? i flew a friends that was a pak kit and it flys great just hope the arfs fly just as well!!


john m

lewdfinger

I have one with the old color scheme and I love it. My advice (free if you can believe it):

1. Go over the covering real good with an iron, especially on the wings. Stuck-down like. I ran a strip of 3/8" red vinyl auto trim along the leading edges because there was not much covering overlap, and a gap in some places
2. Put loctite or nylock nuts on the capscrews that hold in the landing gear angles. Mine were on the way out after about 20 flights.
3. Fiberglass the top and bottom corners of the engine box as well as the sides. The roof and floor of the box both vibrated loose after 40 flights. My 3W-150 ran crappy (i.e ROUGH) for quite awhile before I fixed it - that didn't help.
4. The engine box is JUST tall enough to accomodate the engine mount. You have to carve out the balsa gussets inside the engine box to allow a washer to fit down flat and you have to trim the inside washer so it will fit beside the box roof/floor. I would start with a fender washer and trim it. I found that the trimmed standard washer has too small an area and just crushed the ply after repeated tightenings.
5. I trimmed off the vertical fin mount from the fuselage to help stringing the cables and servo wires (I installed plug n'play connectors for the stabs) before mounting the fin. It's easy to separate cleanly from the fuse, makes installation of cardboard tubes, etc easier, and is easy to replace before mounting the fin.

I have some pics on my web site (www.kdrader.ca) in the gallery section if you want to see what I did.

Fantastic airplane!

rcnutmd

My Feedback: (2)

ha keith thanks for info i will check your pics out on you website thanks john

Edge

John, I got to maiden mine on Saturday. It was so uneventful I couldn't believe it. Two clicks of up trim, and it was hands off straight and level. Pull to the vertical, 0 rudder correction needed. K/E flight is going to require a bit of mixing, so far 4-6% opp. ail. to rudder. Flip to high rates and it will tumble like a mother. Inverted flat spins are a thing of a beauty. Landing was easy, it floats in so slowly. I only had time for one flight, but so far it has been awesome. Kevin and Al were great to deal with also.

John Christensen

jtec radiowave kid

John thats awesome!!! If you have any questions on setup let me know, but it sounds like you already got it figured out. Good luck with it!

al

one of the things we highly recommend is to glass in the firewall all the way around. I prefer this method over pinning. I just feel it gives the firewall better support. I've seen where the pins have actually pulled through the engine box side like a knife on some installations in a nose over.

John. have lots of fun with the plane. like Keith said check the socket cap screws on the landing gear brackets. A little loctite will take care of them backing out from vibration.

Enjoy

Al

Edge

Guys, on glassing the engine box, I went a different route. Aircraft Spruce sell carbon fiber cloth, in different weights, not terribly expensive. I cut approx. 4" wide strips, the length varies on the seam I am covering. Goop the area the fiber covers with 10-15 min epoxy, lay the fiber over the glue, brush a little to spread it where you want it, cover with wax paper, take a 2x2 alum angle, (helps to be a custom steel fabricator) and clamp. When you are done its very clean, and rock solid.

dgfick

My Feedback: (1)

what weights are the 40% 330's coming in at? I also saw on another post that the new ones have been lightened, how much of a difference is there?

Thanks
Dave

jtec radiowave kid

my first plane was 39lbs and the second was about 38lbs with a DA 150 and standard mufflers, which is pretty standard. If you go with canisters most come out to be 40lbs. Also it really depends on what servos you use, if you use 8611's you can save 4 servos atleast compared to most other setups. As for the lightening on the new shipment, we will have to see when they are actually flying but its probably going to be no more then 8 ounces. I doubt most of will notice it, it will just look cleaner.

al

Dave,

also remember that the plane has almost 2800 sq in and is 125" wingspan. so its larger than alot of other 40%

Al

dgfick

My Feedback: (1)

yah, it is a pretty big plane....I just want to make sure that its got enough poop with stock mufflers

Thanks for the info guys

jtec radiowave kid

yeah you should be fine with stock mufflers, that is what I have always run on mine.

rcnutmd

My Feedback: (2)

ha al just got motor cans and headers for the 40% 330 and the cans are the mtw 110 long cans and from the exhaust port onthe motor to the end of the can is 24 in long will that still fit in the tunnel thanks john m

jtec radiowave kid

yeah the MTW 110's should work fine in the Extra's.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

For the novice carbon worker...

... I've only glassed a few times and have been less than happy with thre results. I think clamping the angle over the wax paper will help. Also, I was doing so reading today, and it appears that the resin is critical (I've been using Hangar 9 30 minute epoxy for it). What do you think is the best resin for carbonizing the firewall? I was looking at Aeropoxy: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/aeropoxy.php

I also found some Kevlar cloth on that Aircraft Spruce website that's cheaper than the carbon... the Aeropoxy is supposed to stick to it too.

At home I have T-88 Epoxy... great stuff but I've never tried to laminate with it. Ever used it?

Edge

Sillyness, I use Hysol epoxy. McMaster Carr, Fastenal, Grainger, all have it. Has an awesome gun typ dispenser with nozzles that do the mixing for you. Its a little more expensive, probably brand name, but well worth it and very clean.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Which Hysol... there are 22 of them!!!???

Edge

I use the 5 min non sag most of the time. I have a few tubes of 20 min and a few 120 min aerospace grade on hand as well. Mostly use the 5 min though and make sure you get the non-sag.

dgfick

My Feedback: (1)

Well I should be getting my secondhand 330 on Thursday. I'm stoked.....I just hope that the freight company don't put a forklift through the side of it....that would suck royally

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

If they do you can get a new one!!! Maybe a 300!!! I'd be hoping for them to trash it!!!

al

Dave,

they better not use a forklift, the crate and instruction are marked DO NOT FORKLIFT


Al