Great Planes Wood Glue???
09-25-2010, 07:25 PM
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Great Planes Wood Glue???
My LHS turned me onto this glue after his Pica supply ran dry.Is anyone having trouble purchasing it? I get the glue from the local hobby shop and he's having trouble getting it.Anyone else seen this issue? Thanxs,stefanP
09-25-2010, 07:40 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Towers web site says temporairly unavailable so it may be a manufacturing delay or no longer available.
Pica had the best due to quick tacking and sandability, the GP yellow not as good but very good overall. The original Titebond is a good substitute but takes longer to set. Sanding is okay.
Best part is Titebond is available almost everywhere and cheap.
Pica had the best due to quick tacking and sandability, the GP yellow not as good but very good overall. The original Titebond is a good substitute but takes longer to set. Sanding is okay.
Best part is Titebond is available almost everywhere and cheap.
09-25-2010, 07:43 PM
#3
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: stefanP
My LHS turned me onto this glue after his Pica supply ran dry.Is anyone having trouble purchasing it? I get the glue from the local hobby shop and he's having trouble getting it.Anyone else seen this issue? Thanxs,stefanP
My LHS turned me onto this glue after his Pica supply ran dry.Is anyone having trouble purchasing it? I get the glue from the local hobby shop and he's having trouble getting it.Anyone else seen this issue? Thanxs,stefanP
If you need a glue that drys clear Welbond is a very good glue for wood, tiles, glass, styrooam, fabrics and much more.
Personally I use Sig-Ment that comes in 4 oz tubes for most of my gluing.
I use thin CA for tacking only when it is not practical to clamp.
I also use 30 minute epoxy where stress is important.
Gluing is a bit of an art.
Zor.
09-25-2010, 07:58 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Personally I like plain old Elmer's carpenter's glue. Yes it takes time to dry but is very sandable and strong. Also I do not have concerns with this flexible glue developing stress and fatiague problems over time like the plastic based CA and Epoxy. I fly my planes for a very long time, longest is 25 years.
Going to try Titebond next build. I have heard many good things about it.
If I have a tough clamping problem will tack with fast CA then coat and fillet the joint with wood glue.
Tom
Going to try Titebond next build. I have heard many good things about it.
If I have a tough clamping problem will tack with fast CA then coat and fillet the joint with wood glue.
Tom
09-25-2010, 10:25 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
FWIW, ordinary white Elmers glue will stay flexible for several decades. I recovered and put new hardware in a C/L Midwest Magician I built back around 1975 recently and the Elmers I'd glued the center section sheeting on with was still pliable when I cut into the sheeting to install a new bellcrank and leadouts.
09-25-2010, 10:57 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
I bought several bottles of the GP wood glue several years ago and still have been using it, I'm down to about 1/3 of my last bottle. The shelf life is longer then I thought any glue could be. I also use titebond. Haven't tried the PICA.
09-26-2010, 02:11 PM
#10
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: stefanP
Thanxs for the responces.I apprciate your imputs.
stefanP
Thanxs for the responces.I apprciate your imputs.
stefanP
"There you go" said the girl cashier. So I ask her "where is "there" and she has a smile.
You got the best advice you could have.
In your case "there" is the flying field with a well glued model.
Do not forget to double glue and create fillets in every corner to increase the binding areas.
As I wrote before, gluing is a bit of an art. Glue has to penetrate in the wood pores and the strength of a joint is higly reinforced by the fillets.
Enjoy and have fun.
Zor
09-26-2010, 08:11 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Not trying to stray from the original post but since other glues were brought up I have a quick question. I have some Elmer's yellow woodworkers glue and some Weldbond. Anyone have preferences between these two and if so why? I'm building an Ivan Pettigrew Partenavia right now and it's 90% stick build. I pride myself on sanding all those sticks for a perfect fit so gap filling properties aren't much of a requirement. I'm starting to have problems with CA fumes again so I think I'll be going to wood glue for a while.
Joe
Joe
09-26-2010, 09:15 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Just use Elmer's or TitebondII.............these are readily available, great glues that bind fast and sand good........I would never buy a specialized name glue in leiu of the aforementioned brands......what the heck else can they do to an aliphatic resin glue? And when you buy them at Lowe's or Home Depot or Ace or wherever........they're cheaper too. This is not rocket science!
09-26-2010, 09:59 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: oldtyme
Just use Elmer's or TitebondII.............these are readily available, great glues that bind fast and sand good........I would never buy a specialized name glue in leiu of the aforementioned brands......what the heck else can they do to an aliphatic resin glue? And when you buy them at Lowe's or Home Depot or Ace or wherever........they're cheaper too. This is not rocket science!
Just use Elmer's or TitebondII.............these are readily available, great glues that bind fast and sand good........I would never buy a specialized name glue in leiu of the aforementioned brands......what the heck else can they do to an aliphatic resin glue? And when you buy them at Lowe's or Home Depot or Ace or wherever........they're cheaper too. This is not rocket science!
I'm with you, oldtyme, but some folks were pulled away from our glues (those you mentioned) by Pica's really fast drying and easy sanding glue some years ago. Me, I'm not in that much of a hurry and I always wipe off excess glue before it dries, so I won't have any to sand.
Ed Cregger
09-27-2010, 12:18 PM
#15
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Any glue that may interfere with covering should be wiped out before it sets.
Any other glue is not excess and should be used to form the fillets. and increase the binding area.
Any other glue is not excess and should be used to form the fillets. and increase the binding area.
09-27-2010, 10:08 PM
#17
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: NM2K
I'd rather make my fillets from balsa scrap. Glue is heavy.
Ed Cregger
I'd rather make my fillets from balsa scrap. Glue is heavy.
Ed Cregger
I have a feeling that you are referring to what I would call "fairings" like often seen at the root of the wings to the fuselage.
I am talking about filetting glue joints to increase the binding area of a joint.
Here are pictures of what I am talking about.
Zor
09-27-2010, 10:33 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
No, I'm talking about fillets, though I use triangle stock to make my structural reinforcing fillets. Very small pieces of scrap, ran through my table or bandsaw and glued in place with a minimum of glue, just to keep things light. Everyone has a different building style.
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
09-28-2010, 06:52 AM
#19
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: NM2K
No, I'm talking about fillets, though I use triangle stock to make my structural reinforcing fillets. Very small pieces of scrap, ran through my table or bandsaw and glued in place with a minimum of glue, just to keep things light. Everyone has a different building style.
Ed Cregger
No, I'm talking about fillets, though I use triangle stock to make my structural reinforcing fillets. Very small pieces of scrap, ran through my table or bandsaw and glued in place with a minimum of glue, just to keep things light. Everyone has a different building style.
Ed Cregger
I will not carry on this topic any further.
I have said all I had to say and illustrated it.
One example illustrated shows that triangular stock and the glue is seen extending a bit beyond the areas of the wood itself (a fillet).
I would think it is obvious we would not use such a technique for every join as seen in the other sample. If we have a double join let us say of 1/8" x 1/8" balsa similar to the illustration (previous posting) the bindng area of each cross piece can be 1/8 x 1/8 or 1/64 square inch.
If we fillet these joins so that the glue extend 1/8 inch in a little radius, we now have a biding area 5 times larger. The extra strength versus the extra weight is well worth the negligeable extra weight (see next paragraph).
On a model having a flying weight of 11 lbs.3 1/2 tubes of Sig-Ment glue, 4 oz size was used. It has been calculated that less than4 ounces of "glue weight" are in the model on a 176 ounces of model weight.
A full tube of glue was weighted; then an empty tube so we knew the weight of the glue alone.
It is estimated that while the glue cures it looses about half of its weight (the liquifying constituent).
As you say "Everyone has a different building style".
Your posted comments starting with the word "No" as a disagreement with the technique I illustrated
is certainly your privilege.
Any reader can also use their own methods (gluing technique).
Hopefully our discussion may be valuable to the general builder.
73 de Zor.
09-28-2010, 12:33 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: ramboy
What about Titebond III ?
What about Titebond III ?
09-28-2010, 12:45 PM
#23
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
Titebond III has the longest curing time and is the heaviest, also the most waterproof. I and II have the quickest tack and set time (5 minutes tack, 10-15 minutes set time). I is yellow, dries translucent, II is cream color, dries translucent/yellowish, III is tan, dries light brown.
All are good. Overall for model building I prefer Titebond I (original). I have also used Sig Bond and Sig-ment, great glues but availability is inconsistent.
Info: http://www.titebond.com/DefaultTB.htm
All are good. Overall for model building I prefer Titebond I (original). I have also used Sig Bond and Sig-ment, great glues but availability is inconsistent.
Info: http://www.titebond.com/DefaultTB.htm
09-28-2010, 03:17 PM
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RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
ORIGINAL: Zor
Ed,
I will not carry on this topic any further.
I have said all I had to say and illustrated it.
One example illustrated shows that triangular stock and the glue is seen extending a bit beyond the areas of the wood itself (a fillet).
I would think it is obvious we would not use such a technique for every join as seen in the other sample. If we have a double join let us say of 1/8'' x 1/8'' balsa similar to the illustration (previous posting) the bindng area of each cross piece can be 1/8 x 1/8 or 1/64 square inch.
If we fillet these joins so that the glue extend 1/8 inch in a little radius, we now have a biding area 5 times larger. The extra strength versus the extra weight is well worth the negligeable extra weight (see next paragraph).
On a model having a flying weight of 11 lbs.3 1/2 tubes of Sig-Ment glue, 4 oz size was used. It has been calculated that less than 4 ounces of ''glue weight'' are in the model on a 176 ounces of model weight.
A full tube of glue was weighted; then an empty tube so we knew the weight of the glue alone.
It is estimated that while the glue cures it looses about half of its weight (the liquifying constituent).
As you say ''Everyone has a different building style''.
Your posted comments starting with the word ''No'' as a disagreement with the technique I illustrated
is certainly your privilege.
Any reader can also use their own methods (gluing technique).
Hopefully our discussion may be valuable to the general builder.
73 de Zor.
ORIGINAL: NM2K
No, I'm talking about fillets, though I use triangle stock to make my structural reinforcing fillets. Very small pieces of scrap, ran through my table or bandsaw and glued in place with a minimum of glue, just to keep things light. Everyone has a different building style.
Ed Cregger
No, I'm talking about fillets, though I use triangle stock to make my structural reinforcing fillets. Very small pieces of scrap, ran through my table or bandsaw and glued in place with a minimum of glue, just to keep things light. Everyone has a different building style.
Ed Cregger
I will not carry on this topic any further.
I have said all I had to say and illustrated it.
One example illustrated shows that triangular stock and the glue is seen extending a bit beyond the areas of the wood itself (a fillet).
I would think it is obvious we would not use such a technique for every join as seen in the other sample. If we have a double join let us say of 1/8'' x 1/8'' balsa similar to the illustration (previous posting) the bindng area of each cross piece can be 1/8 x 1/8 or 1/64 square inch.
If we fillet these joins so that the glue extend 1/8 inch in a little radius, we now have a biding area 5 times larger. The extra strength versus the extra weight is well worth the negligeable extra weight (see next paragraph).
On a model having a flying weight of 11 lbs.3 1/2 tubes of Sig-Ment glue, 4 oz size was used. It has been calculated that less than 4 ounces of ''glue weight'' are in the model on a 176 ounces of model weight.
A full tube of glue was weighted; then an empty tube so we knew the weight of the glue alone.
It is estimated that while the glue cures it looses about half of its weight (the liquifying constituent).
As you say ''Everyone has a different building style''.
Your posted comments starting with the word ''No'' as a disagreement with the technique I illustrated
is certainly your privilege.
Any reader can also use their own methods (gluing technique).
Hopefully our discussion may be valuable to the general builder.
73 de Zor.
I was disagreeing with your statement that what I was talking about were fairings and not fillets. I come from an industrial drafting background, particularly nuclear welding and such, so our meanings of certain words may be different. Do not be offended when you see me use the word "no". I'm not arguing with you. I'm merely trying to clarify my point.
Ed Cregger
09-28-2010, 04:27 PM
#25
RE: Great Planes Wood Glue???
I was using the Great Planes glue and loved it, but like all the others in this thread, I can no longer get it. I have switched to Tite Bond and have not looked back. I also like the fact that I can get Tite Bond at the Home Depot for about $3.50 and it's a huge bottle. Good Luck, Dave