Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
09-29-2010, 10:23 AM
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Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Hello all. I've been away from here for about two years. Time to pick things back up.
I started a Sig Something Extra (SSE) about two years ago. All I got built was the wing. Well, I've got some space set up and I want to start it up again. I've gone back and thread through many of the SSE build threads and question threads.
My goal is to compile a list of the common modifications made to the SSE, common building tips, and some of the tools used.
My list is likely incomplete. I am posting it for two reasons: 1) So that others can help me with additional suggestions and 2) So that others after me don't necessarily have to pour through threads like I did to find these gems.
Tools and jigs. I'm not going to spend too much time talking about these. There are lots of threads that talk about building surface (benchwork), glues, rulers, squares, knives, saws, abrasives, Hobbico Hinging Machine (plus plastic guide), etc.
Here are some links that might help a few newbies shop for tools:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4922027
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6220473
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_55...tm.htm#5547782
I will, however, point out something beyond those normally used tools. I decided I wanted to use something to help me set wing ribs. Sometimes holding a rib up against a triangle, gluing it to spars, and holding it there while it dried got tedious. And there was a chance I'd shift and not get it straight. I took a page from RCKen and build some really simple "L" shaped brackets. I went to Lowe's and purchased a 3 foot long piece of aluminum angle iron. The 1" tall stuff. Its just a couple bucks. Then I put it in my vice and used a hack saw to cut several 1" and 1.25" inch pieces. One one side I used a small drill bit to drill a hole. The hole is just big enough for a regular thumb tack to fit into. You know, the kind you use on a bulletin board. This will help with setting ribs and make life much easier. Note: after cutting the pieces, you do have to deburr them. I wanted them nice and smooth so I could handle them without worrying about getting cut. I used a dremel and it took quite awhile... longest part of making them. A bench grinder would have been much better. Heck, a standard hand file may have been faster. You can do this pretty quickly (1-2 hours) with hand tools. With power tools, much faster. Anyway, here is a picture of what I'm talking about:
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7861/img1157s.jpg
Another thing tool I needed to make are weights. RCKen in his famous Pay It Forward LT-40 thread says he sews together pockets of material and fills them with BBs. I looked online at prices for BBs and it seemed expensive. I'm just going to use pea gravel. There is a place down the road that sells different sized gravel by the truckload. I'm guessing if I took a 5 gallon bucket over there and filled it up halfway they'd either charge me 2$ or just let me have it free. Since I do not have a sewing machine I needed something to contain the pea gravel. Zip Log bags are only a short-term solution. Then I was thinking about using something like Crown Royal bags. But I only have one. I know, I know... buy more Crown Royal, right? Instead I went in with a guy at work to buy 100 cotton sacks that are 5 inches by 3 inches. These are also known in the military as "parts bags". If you know someone in the motorpool, maybe they can help you out. I got mine from Grainger. They have different sizes.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MID...B44?Pid=search
I received the bags and they were too small. I'll be returning them to Grainger. You can Google for "Cotton Parts Bags" and find many suppliers. Many sell them in lots of 100. I found a site that sells them in lots of ten. I purchased ten of the 5X7" and ten of the 6X8". The bags were about $10 + shipping.
http://www.organzabagg.com/muslin.html
I will use these to weigh down parts as they dry. This will be especially helpful with laying the top spar, sheeting, etc.
Ok, thats enough talk about tools for now.
Build threads. Let me just link a few in case you want to reference things yourself. First, here is the Pay It Foward - Sig LT-40 thread by RCKen. Amazing detail. I know its another plane, but a good read. Its VERY long and detailed, but gives really good tips, advice, and shows you some things to look out for when building.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34..._1/key_/tm.htm
Here are a couple SSE build threads:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_46..._1/key_/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66..._1/key_/tm.htm
Ok, on to the meat of this post. These are suggested modifications / techniques that I've seen mentioned. These mods aren't in the kitbash category. I'm not sure that even if you followed these mods you would have what is considered a "heavily modded" SSE.... because you're not really changing the shape or how it flies (except for the tail feathers mod).
1) I've heard its a good idea to beef up the landing gear plate, especially if you land on grass. Most use some tri-stock (triangle shaped stips of balsa) to reinforce the corners. Some also use sheeting. I've heard of one person getting a thin sheet of carbon fiber and epoxying it to the existing plate.
Instead of the carbon fiber, it might be better to epoxy two hardwood blocks to the bottom plate, then tap 1/4" x 20 threads into the block for nylon bolts. On a hard landing the bolts will shear off at the head and likely save the fuselage belly from being ripped out.
Here are two threads that describe it and show pictures:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_74...tm.htm#7432779
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...tm.htm#6922589
2) Modify (extend) the elevator and rudder. Some use 1" longer, 1.5" inch longer, and I saw one person make the rudder 2" longer with the elevator 1" longer. This increases the tail control surfaces for more arobatics. It also helps shift the Center of Gravigty (CG) rearward. Helpful if your other mods or heavier engine push your CG forward. It also helps with 3D as those chaps that like to do 3D like a rearward CG.
3) Whether you extend the tail feathers or not, it is recommended you counterbalance. It is hard for me to explain verbally. I'll use the rudder for example. Basically, you take part of the stabilizer that is normally fixed in place, and make it hinge along with the rudder... or rather, part of the rudder. You're making more of the surface that used to be fixed in place, and adding it to the part that moves. Its actually very easy to do with this kit. About halfway down this thread there is a post from tattoo60012 that shows his tailfeathers extended and counterbalanced.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6798398
4) Bolt on wings or use zip ties for the J-hooks. After the wings are inserted into the fuselage, you hold them towards each other by stringing a rubber band between J-hooks inserted into the wing roots. Many people find this design works just fine. Others worry about it. Some people replace the J-Hooks with nylon screws and nuts. Some people leave the J-Hooks in, but use a Zip tie to hold the J-hooks together rather than a rubber band. Of course you'll need a supply of Zip ties because you'll use one up each time you go to the airfield. Not a big deal since they cost pennies.
5) Someone mentioned they didn't like fiddling with the included wheel pants. They said they found a pair of Global Hobby wheel pants for $5 that are already assembled and fit. I did some searching online and could not locate the part, howerver.
6) Replace the stock Control Rods. Order a set of Sullivan Golden Rods. Get the 2-256 Blue and Yellow ones. Here's a thread if you want to bother reading the recommendation:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6260956
7) Replace the tail wheel with a larger Sullivan or Dubro wheel. It was suggested that the Dubro wheel is sturdier and easier to use.
8) Probably true for all builds, not just the SSE. Drip / wick a small amount of thing CA around any screw holes. For example, before you mount your servos, put some CA into the screw holes in the wood and let it dry. This will reinforce that wood so your servos will stay fast. Of course, don't put the screws in while the CA is still wet, you'll have a really hard time removing your servos in the future if you do that. The idea is to reinforce the hole a little bit. Just a drop or two.
9) Dubro Super Strength landing gear for more prop clearance
These last two I need some help with. I need more information.
10) Sheet the turtle deck with very thin balsa. I've heard it greatly improves the appearance of the plane and makes it nicer when covering. I'm not sure if you need to shave the tops of the formers and stringers down to allow room for the sheeting or not. I haven't gotten to that part of the construction. I would love to hear from someone who has done it.
11) I've also heard its a good idea to make the canopy and top of the plane near the nose removable. This is desirable for accessing the fuel tank. If you ever need to maintain or replace the fuel tank you'll have to cut up your model. It was recommended to do this first. It was also suggested to use Rare Earth magnets to hold it down. Its an easy solution to make it removable. The problem is I have no idea how to perform this mod. I'm a new builder... and I haven't gotten that far in the plans. Do you need to cut the formers to make this happen? I'd love to see a thread with pictures on how to do this. I think I need to send "blw" from this thread a PM to see how he did it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6798398
Thats all I can think of for now. I appreciate any help, feedback, information on additional mods, etc.
I started a Sig Something Extra (SSE) about two years ago. All I got built was the wing. Well, I've got some space set up and I want to start it up again. I've gone back and thread through many of the SSE build threads and question threads.
My goal is to compile a list of the common modifications made to the SSE, common building tips, and some of the tools used.
My list is likely incomplete. I am posting it for two reasons: 1) So that others can help me with additional suggestions and 2) So that others after me don't necessarily have to pour through threads like I did to find these gems.
Tools and jigs. I'm not going to spend too much time talking about these. There are lots of threads that talk about building surface (benchwork), glues, rulers, squares, knives, saws, abrasives, Hobbico Hinging Machine (plus plastic guide), etc.
Here are some links that might help a few newbies shop for tools:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4922027
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6220473
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_55...tm.htm#5547782
I will, however, point out something beyond those normally used tools. I decided I wanted to use something to help me set wing ribs. Sometimes holding a rib up against a triangle, gluing it to spars, and holding it there while it dried got tedious. And there was a chance I'd shift and not get it straight. I took a page from RCKen and build some really simple "L" shaped brackets. I went to Lowe's and purchased a 3 foot long piece of aluminum angle iron. The 1" tall stuff. Its just a couple bucks. Then I put it in my vice and used a hack saw to cut several 1" and 1.25" inch pieces. One one side I used a small drill bit to drill a hole. The hole is just big enough for a regular thumb tack to fit into. You know, the kind you use on a bulletin board. This will help with setting ribs and make life much easier. Note: after cutting the pieces, you do have to deburr them. I wanted them nice and smooth so I could handle them without worrying about getting cut. I used a dremel and it took quite awhile... longest part of making them. A bench grinder would have been much better. Heck, a standard hand file may have been faster. You can do this pretty quickly (1-2 hours) with hand tools. With power tools, much faster. Anyway, here is a picture of what I'm talking about:
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7861/img1157s.jpg
Another thing tool I needed to make are weights. RCKen in his famous Pay It Forward LT-40 thread says he sews together pockets of material and fills them with BBs. I looked online at prices for BBs and it seemed expensive. I'm just going to use pea gravel. There is a place down the road that sells different sized gravel by the truckload. I'm guessing if I took a 5 gallon bucket over there and filled it up halfway they'd either charge me 2$ or just let me have it free. Since I do not have a sewing machine I needed something to contain the pea gravel. Zip Log bags are only a short-term solution. Then I was thinking about using something like Crown Royal bags. But I only have one. I know, I know... buy more Crown Royal, right? Instead I went in with a guy at work to buy 100 cotton sacks that are 5 inches by 3 inches. These are also known in the military as "parts bags". If you know someone in the motorpool, maybe they can help you out. I got mine from Grainger. They have different sizes.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MID...B44?Pid=search
I received the bags and they were too small. I'll be returning them to Grainger. You can Google for "Cotton Parts Bags" and find many suppliers. Many sell them in lots of 100. I found a site that sells them in lots of ten. I purchased ten of the 5X7" and ten of the 6X8". The bags were about $10 + shipping.
http://www.organzabagg.com/muslin.html
I will use these to weigh down parts as they dry. This will be especially helpful with laying the top spar, sheeting, etc.
Ok, thats enough talk about tools for now.
Build threads. Let me just link a few in case you want to reference things yourself. First, here is the Pay It Foward - Sig LT-40 thread by RCKen. Amazing detail. I know its another plane, but a good read. Its VERY long and detailed, but gives really good tips, advice, and shows you some things to look out for when building.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34..._1/key_/tm.htm
Here are a couple SSE build threads:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_46..._1/key_/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66..._1/key_/tm.htm
Ok, on to the meat of this post. These are suggested modifications / techniques that I've seen mentioned. These mods aren't in the kitbash category. I'm not sure that even if you followed these mods you would have what is considered a "heavily modded" SSE.... because you're not really changing the shape or how it flies (except for the tail feathers mod).
1) I've heard its a good idea to beef up the landing gear plate, especially if you land on grass. Most use some tri-stock (triangle shaped stips of balsa) to reinforce the corners. Some also use sheeting. I've heard of one person getting a thin sheet of carbon fiber and epoxying it to the existing plate.
Instead of the carbon fiber, it might be better to epoxy two hardwood blocks to the bottom plate, then tap 1/4" x 20 threads into the block for nylon bolts. On a hard landing the bolts will shear off at the head and likely save the fuselage belly from being ripped out.
Here are two threads that describe it and show pictures:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_74...tm.htm#7432779
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...tm.htm#6922589
2) Modify (extend) the elevator and rudder. Some use 1" longer, 1.5" inch longer, and I saw one person make the rudder 2" longer with the elevator 1" longer. This increases the tail control surfaces for more arobatics. It also helps shift the Center of Gravigty (CG) rearward. Helpful if your other mods or heavier engine push your CG forward. It also helps with 3D as those chaps that like to do 3D like a rearward CG.
3) Whether you extend the tail feathers or not, it is recommended you counterbalance. It is hard for me to explain verbally. I'll use the rudder for example. Basically, you take part of the stabilizer that is normally fixed in place, and make it hinge along with the rudder... or rather, part of the rudder. You're making more of the surface that used to be fixed in place, and adding it to the part that moves. Its actually very easy to do with this kit. About halfway down this thread there is a post from tattoo60012 that shows his tailfeathers extended and counterbalanced.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6798398
4) Bolt on wings or use zip ties for the J-hooks. After the wings are inserted into the fuselage, you hold them towards each other by stringing a rubber band between J-hooks inserted into the wing roots. Many people find this design works just fine. Others worry about it. Some people replace the J-Hooks with nylon screws and nuts. Some people leave the J-Hooks in, but use a Zip tie to hold the J-hooks together rather than a rubber band. Of course you'll need a supply of Zip ties because you'll use one up each time you go to the airfield. Not a big deal since they cost pennies.
5) Someone mentioned they didn't like fiddling with the included wheel pants. They said they found a pair of Global Hobby wheel pants for $5 that are already assembled and fit. I did some searching online and could not locate the part, howerver.
6) Replace the stock Control Rods. Order a set of Sullivan Golden Rods. Get the 2-256 Blue and Yellow ones. Here's a thread if you want to bother reading the recommendation:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6260956
7) Replace the tail wheel with a larger Sullivan or Dubro wheel. It was suggested that the Dubro wheel is sturdier and easier to use.
8) Probably true for all builds, not just the SSE. Drip / wick a small amount of thing CA around any screw holes. For example, before you mount your servos, put some CA into the screw holes in the wood and let it dry. This will reinforce that wood so your servos will stay fast. Of course, don't put the screws in while the CA is still wet, you'll have a really hard time removing your servos in the future if you do that. The idea is to reinforce the hole a little bit. Just a drop or two.
9) Dubro Super Strength landing gear for more prop clearance
These last two I need some help with. I need more information.
10) Sheet the turtle deck with very thin balsa. I've heard it greatly improves the appearance of the plane and makes it nicer when covering. I'm not sure if you need to shave the tops of the formers and stringers down to allow room for the sheeting or not. I haven't gotten to that part of the construction. I would love to hear from someone who has done it.
11) I've also heard its a good idea to make the canopy and top of the plane near the nose removable. This is desirable for accessing the fuel tank. If you ever need to maintain or replace the fuel tank you'll have to cut up your model. It was recommended to do this first. It was also suggested to use Rare Earth magnets to hold it down. Its an easy solution to make it removable. The problem is I have no idea how to perform this mod. I'm a new builder... and I haven't gotten that far in the plans. Do you need to cut the formers to make this happen? I'd love to see a thread with pictures on how to do this. I think I need to send "blw" from this thread a PM to see how he did it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6798398
Thats all I can think of for now. I appreciate any help, feedback, information on additional mods, etc.
09-29-2010, 10:52 AM
#2
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Tall Paul posted on his site a modification to take the reflex out of the wing. He did not feel it needed it.
I can no longer find the reference but basically you build it straight like the profile Fazer which uses the same wing. Just a thought.
John
I can no longer find the reference but basically you build it straight like the profile Fazer which uses the same wing. Just a thought.
John
09-29-2010, 03:01 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
I have received some PMs. Here is something for number 11 above. Regarding making the entire front of the fuselage part of the removable hatch.
12) Tip plates on the ends of the wings help a little with stall speeds, and help with entering and exiting fast rolls.
13) Use light wheels such as the Dubro Featherlites
14) Using a 15-17 oz mini servo for the throttle saves a lot of weight
15) Buy a threaded 2-56 rod, and cut these to length for the aileron control rods. This way you can use a clevis on each end with no z bends or soldering. Cheap and a big improvement.
When you build the fuselage, look at formers F1 and F2. Just square those off to match the sides of the fuselage. You are making a box fuselage when you do this. Omit all of the steps in building up the hatch and covering the fuel tank area. I use 1/4 balsa to run a length from the firewall to F4 at the turtledeck. You can sand out a small circle in the front to glue a flat washer before covering. That way, and with a small hardwood block glued to the backside of the firewall, you can use a screw to hold the hatch down. You should choose the lightest balsa for the hatch. You can sand and round off the sides for a better look.
13) Use light wheels such as the Dubro Featherlites
14) Using a 15-17 oz mini servo for the throttle saves a lot of weight
15) Buy a threaded 2-56 rod, and cut these to length for the aileron control rods. This way you can use a clevis on each end with no z bends or soldering. Cheap and a big improvement.
09-29-2010, 04:44 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Do NOT use bolts for the wings. There is a [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8179620]thread [/link] where someone who did this had a massive failure and the guy from SIG who designed the plane came on and gave a great explanation on how it was designed and basically said that you should never bolt. Rubber bands or tie wraps are sufficient.
In terms of fuel tank hatch, the instructions specifically say not to (weakens structure). For me, I used a 10oz tank and just had to dremel some material from the former closest to the open bay area and I dropped the tank floor down to some existing cut-outs. I dry fit everything and made sure the tank would come out. I did not even have to cut away any of the wing tube support (although this should not hurt anything if you do). I have tape on the tank so I can pull it back, rotate, and then remove. Access has not been an issue. See [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8395332/anchors_8395332/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8395332]here[/link] with final solution detailed [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8483731]on this post.[/link]
If I built again, I would add the CB on the elevators as the inverted flat spin is anything but flat; more like 45 degress off and it is due to the lack of elevator. However, I would also shift the exit slot for the control rod for the elevator. I can not use the upper most hole in the control horn because it is too severe a bend on the control rod...moving that slot up 1/8-1/4" would help there.
I did not sheet the TD but you have the right idea. Shave 1/16" off the stringers and then sheet with 1/16" sheeting. I would make a paper template to get the shape right. You might want to put some short strips along the base of the fuse to have some meat behind the balsa where it mates to the fuse (the first stringer is up a bit and to get the bend you might need to pin/glue at the base)
In terms of fuel tank hatch, the instructions specifically say not to (weakens structure). For me, I used a 10oz tank and just had to dremel some material from the former closest to the open bay area and I dropped the tank floor down to some existing cut-outs. I dry fit everything and made sure the tank would come out. I did not even have to cut away any of the wing tube support (although this should not hurt anything if you do). I have tape on the tank so I can pull it back, rotate, and then remove. Access has not been an issue. See [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8395332/anchors_8395332/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8395332]here[/link] with final solution detailed [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8483731]on this post.[/link]
If I built again, I would add the CB on the elevators as the inverted flat spin is anything but flat; more like 45 degress off and it is due to the lack of elevator. However, I would also shift the exit slot for the control rod for the elevator. I can not use the upper most hole in the control horn because it is too severe a bend on the control rod...moving that slot up 1/8-1/4" would help there.
I did not sheet the TD but you have the right idea. Shave 1/16" off the stringers and then sheet with 1/16" sheeting. I would make a paper template to get the shape right. You might want to put some short strips along the base of the fuse to have some meat behind the balsa where it mates to the fuse (the first stringer is up a bit and to get the bend you might need to pin/glue at the base)
09-29-2010, 05:44 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Alright, thanks for those tips!
I am trying to imagine how I would shave 1/16" inch off the stringers and tops of the formers on the turtle deck. I'm guessing that would be far easier to do before I install. Maybe draw a line 1/16" from the edge on the stringers and sand down to the line with a bar sander. As for sanding down the formers on the turtle deck, I'm not sure. Maybe same method. Draw a line and sand down to it.
EDIT:
A few days after making this post I found a link to another method. Post #38 on this page.
He didn't modify the stringers. He cut the top formers down 1/16th of an inch. Cut the notches for the stringers 1/16th deeper. Put blocks along the bottom to act as anchors for the sheeting where it meets the fuselage. Here is his post with pictures:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_32...2/key_/tm.htm#
I am trying to imagine how I would shave 1/16" inch off the stringers and tops of the formers on the turtle deck. I'm guessing that would be far easier to do before I install. Maybe draw a line 1/16" from the edge on the stringers and sand down to the line with a bar sander. As for sanding down the formers on the turtle deck, I'm not sure. Maybe same method. Draw a line and sand down to it.
EDIT:
A few days after making this post I found a link to another method. Post #38 on this page.
He didn't modify the stringers. He cut the top formers down 1/16th of an inch. Cut the notches for the stringers 1/16th deeper. Put blocks along the bottom to act as anchors for the sheeting where it meets the fuselage. Here is his post with pictures:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_32...2/key_/tm.htm#
09-30-2010, 05:52 AM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Lay all the stringers down together and put something on one end to stop it from moving. Take your modelling plane and run it down the length. Depending on the setting you can get 1/32" or 1/16" per pass. It is actually not that important to get exact. You just need to have the sheeting mate to the fuse flush and not "bend out" too far is it hits the first stringer. For the rest of the stringers, it really does not matter as the extra height or flush on the canopy former is less important.
09-30-2010, 08:54 AM
#7
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
I have to disagree about the top hatch because of experiences with quite a few of SSEs modded that way. My old beater had had a midair, and more recently a nose in crash due to loss of signal. The nose section is very strong with the long hatch mod. It is also easy to make firewall, fuel tank, and structural repairs with the hatch.
I agree about using rubber bands and not any kind of bolt arrangement.
I agree about using rubber bands and not any kind of bolt arrangement.
09-30-2010, 09:19 AM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Mine was built to be an electric lightweight. AUW was about 4.5lbs ready to fly.
Scratched up tail and ailerons
Full hatch(Yes it can and should be done IMHO)
Lightened ribs
Lightened formers
Ply root ribs replaced with hard balsa
stock rubber band and j-hook wings(no problems ever)
Light weight solarfilm covering
Was one of the greatest flying planes I'd ever built.
Lost her to a loose elevator horn screw.
RIP[:@]
Scratched up tail and ailerons
Full hatch(Yes it can and should be done IMHO)
Lightened ribs
Lightened formers
Ply root ribs replaced with hard balsa
stock rubber band and j-hook wings(no problems ever)
Light weight solarfilm covering
Was one of the greatest flying planes I'd ever built.
Lost her to a loose elevator horn screw.
RIP[:@]
09-30-2010, 12:26 PM
#9
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
I've have / had 3 SSE's.
One was a donated partially built kit by a 1st timer (I hope). It took quite an effort to get things straight. I added counters to the rudder and elevators. It had a built up balsa cowl with the engine rotated 90 degrees. I added a tank hatch between the canopy hatch and the firewall. It was my thread that chemie posted. There was sufficient vibration (OS 46 AX with a balanced prop) to work the 1/4x20 nylon bolts out of the wings in just one flight. Subsequent conversations with Mike the "designer" convinced me to use the standard "J" hooks with blind nuts added to the wing's mounting blocks in my next SSE build.
One was a new kit that I built "by the manual" as a result of my "post" conversation with the designer of the SSE. Great flier with an easy 720 degree / second roll rate with the high rates dialed in. Definitely a giggle-n-grin plane. A (suspected) radio hit resulted in a full throttle down-line that embedded the engine a couple of inches into hard pack soil. Firewall was displaced but the rest of the fuse was fairly straight. Biggest problem was that the aluminum wing tube crimped and deformed forward on impact. Things broke internally in the wing tubes when removed.
One is NIB - so I'm looking forward to the results of this thread 'cause, without a doubt, the SSE is probably has the most "build threads" of any of the current crop of kits.
APC 12.25 x 3.75 is an impressive prop with this plane. Just make sure that there is sufficient prop clearance - the stock LG doesn't provide much clearance.
Em, how about a Saito 115 like one of my "power happy" club members?
One was a donated partially built kit by a 1st timer (I hope). It took quite an effort to get things straight. I added counters to the rudder and elevators. It had a built up balsa cowl with the engine rotated 90 degrees. I added a tank hatch between the canopy hatch and the firewall. It was my thread that chemie posted. There was sufficient vibration (OS 46 AX with a balanced prop) to work the 1/4x20 nylon bolts out of the wings in just one flight. Subsequent conversations with Mike the "designer" convinced me to use the standard "J" hooks with blind nuts added to the wing's mounting blocks in my next SSE build.
One was a new kit that I built "by the manual" as a result of my "post" conversation with the designer of the SSE. Great flier with an easy 720 degree / second roll rate with the high rates dialed in. Definitely a giggle-n-grin plane. A (suspected) radio hit resulted in a full throttle down-line that embedded the engine a couple of inches into hard pack soil. Firewall was displaced but the rest of the fuse was fairly straight. Biggest problem was that the aluminum wing tube crimped and deformed forward on impact. Things broke internally in the wing tubes when removed.
One is NIB - so I'm looking forward to the results of this thread 'cause, without a doubt, the SSE is probably has the most "build threads" of any of the current crop of kits.
APC 12.25 x 3.75 is an impressive prop with this plane. Just make sure that there is sufficient prop clearance - the stock LG doesn't provide much clearance.
Em, how about a Saito 115 like one of my "power happy" club members?
09-30-2010, 08:11 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
I epoxied a piece of fiberglass inside the bottom of each wing to resist puncturing by the wheel pants when the nylon landing gear screws break.
Stan
Stan
09-30-2010, 09:10 PM
#11
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
ORIGINAL: JustPlaneSweet
I epoxied a piece of fiberglass inside the bottom of each wing to resist puncturing by the wheel pants when the nylon landing gear screws break.
Stan
I epoxied a piece of fiberglass inside the bottom of each wing to resist puncturing by the wheel pants when the nylon landing gear screws break.
Stan
09-30-2010, 09:17 PM
#12
Senior Member
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
What engine do you think goes better with the SSE 46AX or 55AX?
Can you compare the SSE to the tower uproar 40?
Can you compare the SSE to the tower uproar 40?
10-01-2010, 06:30 AM
#14
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Irvine 53 in mine. Its the muts nuts. Also taller landing gear andstrengthening atits mountand a little extra surface at the rear.
Never done the tank hatch, should have as at some point you will have to get in there. Would have made putting the battery in for balancing alot easier. Slightytail heavy due to larger rudder and elevator.
{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/490776/Rm36973.jpg
Never done the tank hatch, should have as at some point you will have to get in there. Would have made putting the battery in for balancing alot easier. Slightytail heavy due to larger rudder and elevator.
{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/490776/Rm36973.jpg
10-01-2010, 07:00 AM
#15
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
One of my all time favorite planes, just so fun to fly and mods are easy. May she rest in piece
Mine had a custom fiber glass cowl and enlarged rudder. Powered by an ST .45, it seemed noticably faster than others at the field. (probably a little cleaner aerodynamically). I have an ST .51 to go into my next one, if I ever get to it. I also did the tank hatch. I do think the hatch weakens the fuse a little bit, but I'd probably do it again. I used a small spring with loops on the ends to attach to the J hooks on the wings. Simple and reusable. Good luck on the build.
Mine had a custom fiber glass cowl and enlarged rudder. Powered by an ST .45, it seemed noticably faster than others at the field. (probably a little cleaner aerodynamically). I have an ST .51 to go into my next one, if I ever get to it. I also did the tank hatch. I do think the hatch weakens the fuse a little bit, but I'd probably do it again. I used a small spring with loops on the ends to attach to the J hooks on the wings. Simple and reusable. Good luck on the build.
10-01-2010, 09:23 AM
#16
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Evolution .46NT with Towers muffler on mine. I used to have an OS .46FX but the Evo puts out a lot more power. It has an OS A3 plug which gives even more with plenty of power to pull out of a hover with an APC 12.15x3.75 prop.
I made a streamlined block to fit under the landing gear for more prop clearance. I still had to keep the nose on the ground.
I made a streamlined block to fit under the landing gear for more prop clearance. I still had to keep the nose on the ground.
10-01-2010, 11:39 AM
#18
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Seamus,
Thanks for those detailed pictures on your hatch. Shows one more way to do it. Looks very nice, and secure.
My hope was to make this a focused thread where people can talk about modifications to the SSE. A compilation thread that people can use to reference.
I ask that if people have general questions like, "which engine should I use", or "how do I follow X step in the manual" that they make separate thread rather than ride along on this one. I've noticed that many threads get filled up with chatty conversation. My hope is that this thread will act as an easy-to-use reference of mods for those considering building an SSE.
I'll likely be posting a separate build thread showing my progress and asking questions specific to my build.
Thank all, you've provided such great tips so far!
Thanks for those detailed pictures on your hatch. Shows one more way to do it. Looks very nice, and secure.
My hope was to make this a focused thread where people can talk about modifications to the SSE. A compilation thread that people can use to reference.
I ask that if people have general questions like, "which engine should I use", or "how do I follow X step in the manual" that they make separate thread rather than ride along on this one. I've noticed that many threads get filled up with chatty conversation. My hope is that this thread will act as an easy-to-use reference of mods for those considering building an SSE.
I'll likely be posting a separate build thread showing my progress and asking questions specific to my build.
Thank all, you've provided such great tips so far!
10-01-2010, 12:24 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
IMHO, one really worthwhile modification if you have a radio capable of handling crow mixes etc is to incorporate flaps.
Simply split the ailerons approximately 1/3 out from the wing root as seen on my SSE below, build another servo box and install 2 servos in each wing half.
Now, you can have a ball trying out extreme slow flight, very steep landing approaches etcetera.
A tank hatch is totally uneccesary if you use a DuBro tank of the recommended size and simply mount it inverted in the fuselage.
Large diameter wheels help with prop clearance and rough field conditions.
When using a OS 46SF two-stroke engine I have found the best propeller for my style of flying to be an APC 11.5x6 C/L propeller. The 12.25x3.75 is useless for anything, but hovering.
Simply split the ailerons approximately 1/3 out from the wing root as seen on my SSE below, build another servo box and install 2 servos in each wing half.
Now, you can have a ball trying out extreme slow flight, very steep landing approaches etcetera.
A tank hatch is totally uneccesary if you use a DuBro tank of the recommended size and simply mount it inverted in the fuselage.
Large diameter wheels help with prop clearance and rough field conditions.
When using a OS 46SF two-stroke engine I have found the best propeller for my style of flying to be an APC 11.5x6 C/L propeller. The 12.25x3.75 is useless for anything, but hovering.
10-01-2010, 01:59 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Hello Red B., can you perform harriers and elevators with your modified SSE ? perhaps raising the flaps at the same time you pull the elevator stick (with a pmix of course ) ?
Thanks
) ? Thanks
10-01-2010, 02:24 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Red B. Nice pictures. I like the flaps. Such a nice looking plane, too.
And for those of you that are flush with cash, you can put some carbon fiber on your Sig Somethin' Extra. I was looking through the parts that I purchased for this plane two years ago and I noticed a nice surprise. Evidently in a moment of weakness I had ordered the Carbon Fiber landing gear for it. Other than looks and stiffness (which some would argue may be a bad thing), it provides more clearance than the stock gear. This allows for use of larger props and reduces the chance of prop strike on sketchy landings.
Here is a link for the carbon fiber landing gear from Graph Tech RC:
http://www.graphtechrcshop.com/categ...?categoryId=12
The other would be to replace the aluminum wing tube with carbon fiber. Now, obviously its not "needed" on this plane. Whether the savings in weight is worth the monetary cost would be an individual decision. It is likely that for most people it would not be worth it. If you're looking to really save weight on an electric conversion it might help. Anyway, I measured the OD of the stock aluminum tube and it is .875" (7/8 inches). Doing a search for carbon tube will show several suppliers. Some are more expensive than others. I saw one for $60+ but it was for a 60 inch tube. Graph Tech RC has a 30" tube for $43. And, if you give them your desired measurement, they will cut the tube for you at no additional cost. This is a benefit because working with carbon fiber and composites can be hazardous to your health if you do not take precautions.
http://www.graphtechrcshop.com/produ...&categoryId=25
And for those of you that are flush with cash, you can put some carbon fiber on your Sig Somethin' Extra. I was looking through the parts that I purchased for this plane two years ago and I noticed a nice surprise. Evidently in a moment of weakness I had ordered the Carbon Fiber landing gear for it. Other than looks and stiffness (which some would argue may be a bad thing), it provides more clearance than the stock gear. This allows for use of larger props and reduces the chance of prop strike on sketchy landings.
Here is a link for the carbon fiber landing gear from Graph Tech RC:
http://www.graphtechrcshop.com/categ...?categoryId=12
The other would be to replace the aluminum wing tube with carbon fiber. Now, obviously its not "needed" on this plane. Whether the savings in weight is worth the monetary cost would be an individual decision. It is likely that for most people it would not be worth it. If you're looking to really save weight on an electric conversion it might help. Anyway, I measured the OD of the stock aluminum tube and it is .875" (7/8 inches). Doing a search for carbon tube will show several suppliers. Some are more expensive than others. I saw one for $60+ but it was for a 60 inch tube. Graph Tech RC has a 30" tube for $43. And, if you give them your desired measurement, they will cut the tube for you at no additional cost. This is a benefit because working with carbon fiber and composites can be hazardous to your health if you do not take precautions.
http://www.graphtechrcshop.com/produ...&categoryId=25
10-01-2010, 04:01 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
ORIGINAL: HFrank
Hello Red B., can you perform harriers and elevators with your modified SSE ? perhaps raising the flaps at the same time you pull the elevator stick (with a pmix of course) ?
Hello Red B., can you perform harriers and elevators with your modified SSE ? perhaps raising the flaps at the same time you pull the elevator stick (with a pmix of course
) ?
I use the following mixes on my SSE:
Elevator > flap as used in C/L stunt. This is a useful mix for very tight loops
Crow (ailerons up and flaps down) for steep approaches without speed increase.
Flaps + drooped ailerons (ailerons deflection is approx 1/3 of the flap deflection). This is used for superslow, stable flight
In the lattter case I use the elevator halves as ailerons (one servo for each elevator half) to assist in slow speed turns. When flying very slow with drooped ailerons they become rather ineffective and one may suffer what is known as aileron reversal.
BTW, the depicted SSE does not exist any more. It met its demise some years ago. However I have two NIB SSE kits :-).
10-01-2010, 04:31 PM
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RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Thanks Red B. I built a stock SSE 5 or 6 years ago, and though is (still have it) a blast, it is not harrier capable, but since I saw your modification, I want to build another one and incorporate the flaps, and some other mods. (enlarged rudder, counter balanced elevators, etc.), I think it will turn a great airplane into a fantastic one !!
10-01-2010, 10:39 PM
#24
Senior Member
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
Sometime in the past Iput a document together of some bash items for the SSE. Apologies for any duplicated items
- [*]Enlarge rudder by adding 1"to the rudder trailing edge.[*]Add counters to the rudder and elevators[*]Use pull-pull cable for the tail braces[*]Sullivan tail wheel[*]Robart hinge points[*]Rear mounted elevator servo[*]Sheet turtledeck with 1/16" balsa sheet[*]Shorten canopy[*]Tint canopy with RIT[*]Replace supplied landing gear with Dubro super strength (taller) or CF gear (dup). A TnT aluminum LGworks well too.[*]Add flaps with dual flap servos (dup)[*]Fiberglass cowl (Ihave a SIGSun Dancer 50 cowl that's looking for a home on my next SSEbuild)[*]Built up balsa cowl - consider reducing the overall heigth of the firewall to enable a more "daring" cowl look (yea - daring is NOTthe word I'm looking for here).[*]Side-mounted engine[*]Build in 2 / 3 degrees of right thrust by moving pilot's right edge of the firewall back 1/8"[*]Trim wheel pants and 'glass cowl with medium iron followed with thin coat of clear Lustercote.[*]Add ply doubler to the firewall for added strength (and weight)[*]Use pull-pull for the rudder.[*]The fenolic wing tube inside the fuse serves only as a locating device - does NOTprovide any strength and therefore can be considerably trimmed[*]Use a Slimline Pitts muffler[/list]Just some notes that I pulled from a bunch of SSEbuild threads ...
10-01-2010, 10:41 PM
#25
Senior Member
RE: Sig Somethin Extra - build tips and mods compilation
I'm gonna try a cut-n-paste for SSE build threads from a Word doc
2ndBuild-Sig Something Extra by PT40crasher<o
></o><meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type"><meta content="Word.Document" name="ProgId"><meta content="Microsoft Word 14" name="Generator"><meta content="Microsoft Word 14" name="Originator">
</meta></meta></meta></meta>
2ndBuild-Sig Something Extra by PT40crasher<o
></o><meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type"><meta content="Word.Document" name="ProgId"><meta content="Microsoft Word 14" name="Generator"><meta content="Microsoft Word 14" name="Originator">Airfoil shapes used asHorizontal/Vertical Stabilizers by iron eagle<o></o>
Let’s bash anotherSomethin’ Extra! By OverTheEdge<o></o>
AnotherBeginner Build - Sig Somethin’ Extra by Kiswa<o></o>
Sig Somethin’ Extraby SomethinExtra9<o></o>
Sig Somethin’ ExtraBuild by Neddy191<o></o>
SigSomethin’ Extra Build by Somegeek<o></o>
SIGSomethin’ Extra build-along (Finished, pictures!) by Test005<o></o>
SIG Somethin ExtraControl Rods ?????? by Krener<o></o>
SIG Somethin ExtraEngine Mount question by Krener<o></o>
Yet another SIGSomething Extra Build by iron eagle<o></o>
SIG Something ExtraBuild and Du Bro Tail Wheel by BrentHenn<o></o>
SIG SSE doin’ my headin by Krener<o></o>
SIG SSE Kit-Throttleroute for offset engine?? By Krener<o></o>
SIG SSE Mods -Opinions/Suggestions Wanted by felixone<o></o>
SigSomethin' Extra Build Thread by go-kartowner<o></o>
BeginnerBuild, Sig Somethin Extra by mikeyt1<o></o>
WOW!Another Sig Somethin Extra Build by richx1<o></o>
COWLINGSOMETHIN' EXTRA by buzzingb<o></o>
Cowlingfor SIG Somethin Extra ?? by fisher1648<o></o>
SomethinExtra cowl by tychoc<o></o>
SigSomethin Extra Fuel Tank by 3D Flyer<o></o>
SigSomethin' Extra (Hardware Changes) by csdawggie<o></o>
OrderedMy First Kit - SIG Somethin' Extra by kiswa<o></o>
SigSE Landing Gear Question(s) by crash master<o></o>
ShowYour Sig SE's by RSprinkel<o></o>
SigSomethin Extra (Questions) by andersdk<o></o>
SigSomethin' Extra (questions) by bbishop<o></o>
SigSomethin' Extra Questions, Please visit.. by hitcttd<o></o>
SigSomethin' Extra advice by inverted flyer<o></o>
SigSomethin Extra questions by jlimey<o></o>
RecommendedMods to Sig SE by connery<o></o>
Rudderon Sig Somethin Extra by billben55<o></o>
Wayto put servos right at the rudder and elevators on .. by iflynething<o></o>
SIGSomethin Extra (Switch Mount) by swager<o></o>
SigSE tank hatch by kregan<o></o>
SSEWing Attach kneeforu by kneeforu<o></o>
SSEWing Caution voyager 663rd by 663rd<o></o>
SSEWing Gap swedeace by swedeace<o></o>
SSEWing Joiner mattebox by mattebox<o></o>
SSEWing Wash-in jnorton by jnorton<o></o>
SSEWings submikester by submikester<o></o>
Yet another SigSomething Extra Build<o></o>
Well, worked fine except for the metadata ...
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